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Destination Asie
  • AliceAlain
Sep – Dec 2023

Destination Asie

Follow us as we wend our way from Austria towards Turkey and the start of the East. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 5, 2023
    AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Salzburg and a charming sculpture
    An early blurry start. We also end the day pitching the tent in the darkSalzburg fountainWater mill driven by the water descending from the castleView from just below the castleThe last train. The bikes are mega jammed togetherSleeping beautyGarden harvest for our breakfast

    From home to Villach, Austria

    September 5, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Après des semaines de préparatifs, la difficile décision est prise -- c'est Maisie qui viendra et Freya reste à la maison, payant sa jeunesse et quelques vibrations.
    Le grand jour, 5 septembre au matin, levés à 5h30, fin prêts à 6h15, nous sommes presque réveillés à 7h15 pour charger les vélos et les accrocher dans le train à Cornavin.

    Il faut bien reconnaître qu'un tel trajet à travers Suisse et Autriche est plus long mais bien plus beau en train qu'en avion! Nous profitons à fond des paysages et d'une escale de deux heures à Salzbourg chez Mozart et les archevêques.

    Arrivée à Villach à la nuit, nous trouvons le camping, et retrouvons dans notre fourbi duvet pyjamas et brosses à dents. En route pour la Slovénie après un bon petit déjeuner -- au menu spécial, des pommes de notre récolte.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Triglav national park
    Huge glacial river through VillachStarting to climb out of AustriaOoooh. Thats a bit steepFinally made it! Its even steep for going down.2View from our refuge room

    18 percent!

    September 6, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    1000m of climbing for the first day was never going to be a doddle. However, we had not reckoned on a long 18% climb whilst contending with the roar of gang after gang of motorcycles, usually passing a bit too close to our wobbles. The pass finally achieved we slipped into Slovenia and the Triglav National park with mountains well in keeping with the steepness of the roads. With great views and fewer motorbikes we made a slow climb to our refuge, rewarded with spectacular views from the window.Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Une grimpette un peu folle pour un commencement..
    1Le petit matin dans la montagne...Il y a aussi une roche percée en Slovénie! Voir photo suivante pour detailEst-ce un cheval, un dauphin, un poisson ou un décor gothique?Une fois passé le col, les paysages sont à couper le souffle...Cette vallée a été ardemment convoitée entre Italins et autrichiens pendant la 1ère guerre mondialeLa route du col comprend 60 épingles à cheveux... et monte raide, jusqu'à 23 pourcent3

    Over Vrsic

    September 7, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Une belle soirée au gîte Slovène (goulash de chevreuil) et nous voici fin prêts pour la fin de l'ascension de col de Vršič (prononcer Verchitz à cause des petits accents). Sublime dans la lumière de matin, le soleil joue dans les ombres et les brumes. Le GPS grimpe à 23%, erreur de mesure?

    La grande descente est tout aussi vertigineuse, portant les restes de la grande guerre, tunnels, téléphérique, bunkers. Il y a aussi les crêtes et gorges calcaires, le grondement des torrents.

    La Slovénie est aussi un pays touristique en plein essort, joyeux.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    The river by last nights campsite
    Shadows and ripplesThe water is so clear....The lake at Most na SocaClinging to the hillside......high above the valleyMaybe we should move here?A hard earned summitLokve church

    Clear waters

    September 8, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The Soca river runs from the Vrsic pass down to the Adriatic. Its beautifully clear and peppered with small gorges and potholed canyons. This morning we continue along the river, still fast but wider, and then a beautiful although artificial lake.
    At lunchtime we decide its time for a change and head up and not down the next valley. The first climb is shaded and the road clings to the hillside. The second climb is steep, straight and unexpectedly gravelly gravel so we are relieved to finally make the top. We find a delightful tiny campsite for the night, just for us and complete with chickens and a way too friendly cat.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Stone gutters on 12th century Karst house
    How about a wedding at the castle?Stanjel, a karst villageThe village seen from the top towers. Some of the houses have limestone shingles.The church with its bishops hatThis karst house hosts a display of older lifeStone gutters and stone roofThe kitchen with wood stove, onion cutter and carrot grater.The village gate and fortificationIron manhole cover

    The Karst house

    September 9, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    En route vers la Croatie nous longeons l'Italie et les grandes villes de Gorizia et Trieste, magnifiques mais compliquées à vélo. Nous traversons le Karst, région calcaire célèbre pour ses rivières et cavernes souterraines et qui a prêté son nom à des formations karstiques semblables dans le monde entier.

    Dans les jardins du chateau de Stanjel se tient une belle noce italienne. Ils ont une superbe vue sur les alentours, des toilettes magnifiques et des belles voitures. Nous passons discrètement, car nous avons bien transpiré à la montée!

    Le village comprend quelques maisons de ce dur calcaire, au toits de lauzes et gouttières taillées dans la pierre. Le conservation de l'eau de pluie est l'objet de tout un art. Une des maisons, aux fondations du XII-ème siècle, propose une petite exposition de mobilier et ustensiles anciens, qui nous rappelle Coubou. Nous admirons la râpe à carottes et la mandoline à onions et concombres.

     Une crème glacée et ça repart...    Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    One of the optional extras
    Map of the cave system, we did all the red partBridge over underground canyonExiting the main tourSee that path half way up the cliff...Mountain cyclamen

    Skocjan Karst Caves

    September 10, 2023 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    The Skocjan caves are a UNESCO monument and are …. Huge. The tour took us over 3 hours: the first 1.5 hours in a guided group and deep underground; the last optional 1.5 hours was on our own. It was mind boggling that this latter part was an « option ».

    All our photos are of the optional extras as no photos are allowed on the main tour. I copied a photo of the underground bridge over the 45m deep underground canyon for you.

    We walked the whole tour, which was beautifully designed and subtly lit. As we passed through and down, one huge chamber after another, our awe grew. Yes, there were some wonderful stalagmites and stalactites and drip stones (en Français: 'des méduses'). But the sheer size of it, more than 100m high, with the river way way below, was like nothing we have ever seen.

    The caverns were so huge and so long that the Austrians were originally working on using the caves to route an underground railway line joining Vienna to Trieste. Luckily a huge flood made them see sense sooner rather than later.

    That was the morning! The afternoon saw us avoiding the heat along windy wooded mountain roads with roadside flowers and apples.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    New country! I didn't recongnise the name...!
    Up the Reka river in Slovenia: neat and tidy, but small, plotsRuined buildings commemorate the Nazis burning the entire village as they leftView on the sea (yes, yes) from the hills.Mural painting in a little village, maybe to keep memory of a fast disappearing past?Looking towards the Dinari alps where we are headed

    Finally into Hvratska!

    September 13, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Encore émerveillés par les caves de Skocjan, nous passons par les collines et la vallée de la Reka -- la rivière souterraine des caves karstiques, celle dont la crue a mis un point final au projet de métro Vienne-Trieste. La campagne ici est charmante, ordonnée, découpée en petits lopins: ici du maïs, ici une pâture, ici un potager agrémenté de potirons et de fleurs. Des arbres fruitiers parsèment le tout. Nous en profitons pour faire une pause hebdomadaire -- et Alice* une petite purge :~) histoire aussi de planifier la suite.

    La suite ... c'est ce nouveau pays, vous reconnaissez? Autre pays, autre histoire, autres influences. Ici le souvenir des atrocités nazies de la seconde guerre mondiale permet d'oublier les oustachis de triste mémoire. Nous arrivons par l'arrière pays de Rijeka, belle station balnéaire et grand port sur l'Adratique, et pouvons entrevoir la mer. Ces quartiers révèlent un pays encore marqué par la guerre civile récente, et en développement un peu anarchique dominé par le tourisme.

    Nous entrons maintenant dans les Alpes Dinariques....

    * Finally made it over the border (rather gingerly) after a couple of days of being holed up in bed with a stomach 🐜 :-(.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Bear poo!
    Dinari alps, thunderstorm is brewingDownpourPedalling alongside protected area for bears, wolves, lynxBear food, out of reach...Camping in the orchardBear protectionThanks to our hosts and dog owners. He is retired euro-bus driverOff on a misty morning... Finally rhe sun shines through...Poo with a viewThe forest of the bears...

    There be Bears

    September 16, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Alain really wants to see a bear and we are in bear country. Woods, bees, honey, wilderness and more woods. Alice would like to see a bear on condition it is heading in the opposite direction. We have not seen any yet but we have found bear poo! Quite a lot of it actually. It can be recognized in this season by the large quantity of berries which the bears gobble up without chewing.

    We have spent the last 3 days pedalling up and over and through wooded mountains. Our first night we were far from civilization. After a wet afternoon, Alain asked at a small house if we could camp - so we enjoyed their orchard for the night. The dogs would keep bears at bay … (they woke us when foxes arrived).

    Then it was woods and hills and fog and Alains first spotting of bear poo as we passed close to a National park. Then a long wooded descent … you get the idea. Today yet more woods and more poo :-) and even some sunshine to bring us to the Plitvice National Park which we will explore tomorrow.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    1
    52 peopleBullet ridden house a few metres from the mass graveIts not advised to rough camp!And more from 1991Bosnian casualtiesBosnian soldiersBosnian mined areas

    War, war, war

    September 16, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today we are particularly struck by just how much of the time we spend passing signs of war. This holiday we started with the cold war, then WW1 prisoners of war and then both WW1 and WW2 fronts. Our previous trip through the Vosges and then Alices continuation across the low countries was also full of the evidence of war with front line military cemeteries from both wars and forts and shrapnel and memorials to brave lieutenants. So much of it.

    Today our first ever mass grave and remnants of the 1991 Serbian Croatian war. 52 names, we ponder the 3 pairs of identical named people who died. Close by houses riddled with bullet holes.

    Now we stay with people whose lives have been displaced and reshaped by these recent happenings.

    (Added later from Bosnia). 1992-95 memorials, this time muslim themed, each with a list of soldiers and another of civilians. More bullet holes in houses, more mine warnings. Bosnia still appears to be licking its wounds. It is all so recent, it feels too close to home.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    2

    Plitvice I -- lower lakes

    September 17, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The Plitvice lakes national park is described by the guidebook as being as if Croatia had put all of its waterfalls in just one place. It seems a reasonable summary. It is spectacular with numerous lakes and even more waterfalls. New to us is the prominance of tufa, which has created the barriers between the lakes over which the water falls, in turn building more tufa. Tufa (en français 'tuf calcaire') is a calcium carbonate deposit which crystallizes out of the water, stimulated by moss and other plants, when in contact with air.

    The park is very popular, not to mention expensive: it costs as much for the day as our room for 2 nights; admittedly, there is more to see ;-) and it is a UNESCO world heritage site....    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Pay attention!

    Plitvice II — La nature

    September 17, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Créée en 1961 dans une région déjà sauvage, la réserve nous offre bien des plaisirs. La région des Alpes Dinariques est une des mieux arrosées d'Europe, la vegetation est opulente. On y trouve des hêtres immenses, sur lesquels s'épanouissent des générations d'énormes champignons, des cyclamens, des écureuils et des multitudes d'oiseaux dont cette sitelle malicieuse (a playful nuthatch).Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler

    Plitvice III -- upper lakes

    September 17, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We spent a day off the bikes and exploring the national park on foot. It is equipped with board walks, lakeside paths and boats. The waters are crystal clear and a beautiful turquoise.

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    As soon as we cross the border... a Minaret
    Bihac ... what is left of the 13th century fort and the modern churchBihac mosque...Muslim Mauseleum to 1878 austrian invasion casualitiesUmbrella decorations in BihacLunch stop (we get lent a boat to picnic on)

    Bosnia

    September 18, 2023 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Nez-à-nez avec une superbe mosquée et son minaret au troisième virage! Nous sommes arrivés en pays musulman.

    La visite de Bihac et de ses monuments révèle une longue histoire depuis l'empire romain; croate et chretienne au moyen âge, suivie de l'empire Ottoman dès le XVI ème siècle et la conversion à l'Islam moyennant avantages fiscaux. Enfin l'empire Austro-Hongrois en 1878 a remis à l'honneur l'église catholique, tout en faisant des fleurs à l'allié turc d'alors.

    La ville est animée, marchande, nous y trouvons même du lait en poudre (yesss!) jusqu'ici introuvable. On se prépare à une fête locale importante. Une entrevue avec le volubile directeur du parc naturel nous instruit encore sur les efforts que fait la population pour remonter la pente après les destructions de la guerre civile. Surprise: la monnaie locale est, depuis l'indépendance vers 1995, le mark Bosnien, emprunté à l'Allemagne et rappellant le rôle joué par ce pays pour encourager la séparation de la Yougoslavie en pays autonomes. Ce mark vaut d'ailleurs encore 1/2 Euro!

    Les gens sont vraiment accueillants: un peu plus loin, nous voyant chercher un coin près de la rivière Una pour picniquer, ce bosniaque nous offre de prendre place dans sa barque, ombragée et avec une vue superbe. Le muezzin appelle à la prière. Sympa!    Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Štrbački Buk waterfall
    Štrbački Buk ... Croatia is on the other sideMedieval fortress above Kulen-VakufKulen-Vakuf -- in search of police stationShowing how tufa grows and creates the waterfall structuresViews back over the gorge as we leave the Una belowAfter a good climb we reach the plateau through which the Una has cut its gorgeDvrar in sight!

    Una river valley

    September 19, 2023 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Our excuse for including Bosnia on our route, aside from « acquiring » another country, was to visit the Una river national park. A slight miss-reckoning however is that this park also has waterfalls as a main attraction - and we are already rather high on the water fall satisfaction scale. In the end, we visit one of the pay to view waterfalls and several of the free-to-view lesser ones. The valley is heavily wooded and steeply and deeply v-shaped. It is quiet with a few small villages. In places it forms the border with Croatia. We finally climb in the heat steeply out of the valley with views of the valley and gorge below.Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Registered... phew!
    The multi visit police station

    Playing by the rules

    September 20, 2023 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The Bosnia guide book instructs that we must register with the police via our accommodation before we leave. Our first camp site was in retrospect not legal . So the next night we stayed in “the” town hotel to be sure. But they too were not interested in registration. So we tried the local police, who passed Alice around 3 offices and then sent her on a mission to pay the required tax at the post office (which would not take a card but luckily accepted some euros). Then back to the police who said we could come back in 2 hours :-( but luckily reduced this to a more practical 20 mins. Meanwhile Alain was dispatched to spend the bosnian marks that Alice acquired as change…

    The chances are that all this effort was for nothing … versus the possibility of a heavy fine (it does happen). Alain would never have noticed there was something to do. Alice did not expect it to be quite so complicated and wishes she hadn’t tried. All part of the adventure and part of our different approaches and skills.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Memorial to the communist resistance to the Nazis during WWII.
    Huge orthodox cross decorated with Serbian flags, to the memory of the victims of ethical cleansing.Our communist hotel compelete with holes in sheetsA YUGO, hand-made version of FIAT 127, produced in Serbia in the 80's.Village sign in Latin and Cyrillic characters. Alain enjoys the use of the Planck constant.Monument to the rising of the light celebrating the WWll partisans

    Drvar

    September 20, 2023 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Après avoir avalé 30km de plateau calcaire nous descendons sur une ville qui s'etend sur la plaine vallonnée: Drvar (prononcer Drevar). Des maisons parsemées, souvent de brique creuse sans crépi, quelques immeubles d'habitation collective, deux hautes cheminées d'usines, des hangars. Surprise 1: il n'y a pas de minarets ici. Surprise 2: les panneaux routiers sont écrits en caractères latins habituels mais aussi en lettres ciryliques.

    Nous échouons à trouver une chambre chez l'habitant accueillante, et nous rabattons sur le seul hôtel, l'Hôtel Drvar. Grand, un peu sinistre, daté années 50; le salon est transformé en salle de jeux pour enfants. Le personnel est très gentil mais les moquettes rouges ont des taches de 40 ans d'âge et il s'insinue une odeur de tabac froid. Alain évoque sa première visite en Allemagne de l'Est. Mais bon, nous avons chambre et douche chaude, bien qu'il faille s'accrocher au siège des toilettes qui est dévissé.

    Dîner à l'Hôtel et lecture de l'article de wikipedia sur Drvar (on recommande). Tout s'explique... l'industrie aux conditions inhumaines créée par l'occupant austro-hongrois, la tradition syndicale et sa repression, le coeur de la résistance aux nazis et le siège de commande et repaire du partisan Tito; tout cela est dans cette ville, qui a été pendant longtemps un haut lieu touristique de la Yougoslavie...

    S'explique aussi l'immense croix orthodoxe ornée de drapeaux serbes qui se dresse devant nos yeux. Le monument aux morts du nettoyage ethnique des Serbes par les Croates pendant la guerre civile 92-95 est situé juste en face de l'Hôtel. Choix significatif, ce monument a été placé devant un monument plus ancien, glorifiant les partisans communistes de la 2ème guerre mondiale. Cette ville concentre gloires et misères passées de ce pays.

    Le lendemain Alain dépense 13 marks pour deux jours de provisions, admire une Yugo (Fiat 127 fabriquée en Yougoslavie) bien conservée mais malodorante, et médite sur cette population fière mais miserable qui est quand même revenue après tant d'exactions.

    Un peu plus loin sur notre route, un beau monument à la gloire de Tito est accompagné d'une liste des victimes serbes de la guerre civile.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Cute... but we have not seen a real one
    Up out of Dvrar, with factory chimneysMountain plateau area on route to the borderAutomne crocuses (colchiques dans les prés...)For the boys: we saw no bigger tractor than that in Slovenia, Croatia or Bosnia.Descending into CroatiaView over Knin from the fortress1Knin fortress from dinner table

    Back over the border

    September 20, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The border between Bosnia and Croatia is, as of Jan 2023, the border of the Schengen area. Its not allowed to cross in the middle of nowhere and the comments from other cyclists suggests heavy monitoring. So we pick a mountain A-road as our border crossing on our way back into Croatia. Luckily there is very little traffic. We climb up to a high and quiet mountain plateau over the last pass and descend steeply into Croatia. Dinner is on the terrace of Knin fortress with wonderful views.Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    A curious 8cm beastie
    Roman legionary campHousing estate? Houses look unfinished but lived inKrka monasteryLayer upon layer of catacomb beneath the churchKrka gorgesAnd the lake with franciscan monasteryLocal fishermenSkradin village1

    Krka

    September 21, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The Krka National Park follows the gorge of the river Krka. Its been inhabited for quite some time.

    The Romans were here, and built an amphitheatre as well as various military camps. There are also ancient signs of Christianity at the Krka monastery which is all alone in charming meadows at the bottom of the gorge (so we worked hard for our visit). The monastery is now Serbian orthodox and also a seminary and boarding school for 30 students.
    Beneath are layers of catacombs that may date back to the first century. We had a short guided tour and then sat and contemplated the rain from the shelter of the cloisters. The dissonance of the three monastery bells, the crash of thunder, the pelting of the water on the roofs and pavement, and the gushing spout of the drains out and down the stairs made for a memorable sound moment.

    In afternoon light, we enjoyed some splendid views over the gorge and lake. Just as we started to feel hungry, we realised that the cycle navigation app had fooled us by omitting 10km... and a 180 m climb. So after a last sweat, we arrived rather late into a crowded, expensive and uninspiring campsite. Oh, well. Alain managed to appease the ravenous Alice with a powder asparagus soup, 'tuna with hot-hot-chili onion and tomato salad' and instant purée. Pfff...    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Lions are very prominent in Venetian settlements.
    View over Sibenik from St Micheals fortSt James CathedralThe coat of arms of family DelfiniTriple nave of the cathedral. Grand!A shy Eve (or, according to our guidebook, embarrassed)The Baptistry ceiling

    Sibenik

    September 22, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Sibenik is one of the great Venitian settlements of Dalmatia. We start by climbing to Saint Michael’s fortress to admire the site. The place is protected by an extraordinary labyrinth of islands through which we see sailboats maneuvre with quite some work.

    We spend a lovely time on the pier enjoying a windy lunch, before visiting the UNESCO protected Cathedral St Jakob (St James in English, somehow). There are terrific sculptures on the outside which are now finely restored.

    From Sibernik we locate ourselves 25km along the coast in an apartment with view on the sea for a day of rest -- good idea, since it rains all day.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    The very edge of the forest fireMorning light on pines and sea.Fantasies of a desert island for ourselves.PrimonstenWe had to park the bikes before some steep steps to the topNot a bad place for resting in peace! Or for a jibe...Marina venetian towerMoustache culture is strong in Croatia

    Along the Dalmatian coast

    September 23, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Après une journée de repos et de gros orages, nous reprenons la route vers Split de bon matin. La colline derrière la villa a brûlé l'été passé et sur notre gauche c'est la désolation. Côté mer, par contre, avec soleil et vent dans le dos, c'est un délice.

    Non seulement il y a un supermarché ouvert le dimanche à Primonsten, il y a une jolie petite église en haut de la colline, surmontant la mer. Il souffle une belle brise, Alain en profite pour analyser les empannages (jibe) -- parfois un peu limite -- des plaisanciers qui contournent le village.

    Le port Venitien appelé 'Marina' est certainement un bon endroit pour mouiller un bateau, et faute de bateau, pour une petite pause 'en-cas' pour les cyclistes. La statue d'un éternel moustachu, qui tourne le dos au soleil à longueur de journées, nous tient compagnie.

    Ayant avalé plus de 40 bornes dans la matinée, nous arrivons à Trogir.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Old clock tower in Trogir. And it's time for us to Split! (Alain joke)
    Trogir from the bell towerOld narrrow streetsAltar in the cathedralAmazing sculptures on the frontal porch of the cathedralEve is here again! (Is this the same model as in Sebenik?)This, decides Alain based on lipstick evidence, is a Lioness!Adam is here, too; with his own lion.Papa lion went hunting to catch a big bird. There will be chicken for lion dinner.

    Trogir

    September 24, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    (English translation below)
    Trogir remonte aux anciens grecs qui l'appelaient "mont du bouc". Petite ile bien protégée entre la côte et une grande ile, elle était une forteresse idéale pour les vénitiens, entre croates sur terre et turcs sur mer. Ça ne suffit plus de nos jours pour se protéger de l'UNESCO ni des touristes... mais elle en vaut la peine. Voir la page wikipedia pour l'histoire mouvementée et les merveilles architecturales de Trogir.

    Après nous êtres faufilés dans des rues très étroites entre des touristes plutôt larges, nous admirons la vieille citadelle et surtout la magnifique cathédrale vénitienne. Autour du beau portail gothique nous retrouvons Adam et Eve, cette fois-ci avec des lions à leurs pieds. Ce n'est pas comme ça dans la bible mais ça a permis au sculpteur de décrire à sa façon le rôle de maman et papa lion dans leur famille ;-).

    En avant vers Split! Notre navigateur 'Komoot' nous permet de nous faufiler le long de la côte en évitant la grand route. Nous passons par de jolis villages de pêche, hélas ponctués de ralentisseurs bien douloureux pour le fondement des cyclistes

    Nous y voilà! Split est en fête, nocturne, éclairé et excitant!

    ≈===== English ≈======

    Trogir dates back to the ancient Greeks, who called it "Mount of the Billy-Goat". As a small, well-protected island between the coast and a large island, it was an ideal fortress for the Venetians, between the Croats on land and the Turks at sea. These days, that's not enough to protect it from UNESCO or the tourists... but it's worth it. See the wikipedia page for Trogir's eventful history and architectural wonders.

    After weaving our way through some very narrow streets and between some rather large tourists, we admire the old citadel and above all the magnificent Venetian cathedral. Around the beautiful Gothic portal we meet Adam and Eve again, once more with lions at their feet. It's not like that in the Bible, but it allowed the sculptor to describe in his own way the role of mother and father lion in their family ;-).

    Onwards to Split! Our navigator 'Komoot' allows us to thread our way along the coast, avoiding the main road. We pass through some pretty fishing villages, which are unfortunately punctuated by speed bumps that are very painful for cyclists-on-saddle.

    And here we are! Split is festive, night-time, illuminated and exciting!    Read more

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Grgur Ninski, 10th century bishop who fought to replace latin by Croatian in church services
    What used to be Dioclatien's appartments.The iron gateOne of the beautiful silver items in the cathedral's treasuryFirst things first, we climb the St Dominius cathedral tower for the viewThe octogonal mausoleum of Diocletian became in 653 AD the Cathedral of Saint Dominius.The mausoleum vaulted ceiling, in bricks and still up. Incredible Romans!Some of the 40 human emotions on a superb arched ceiling in the Temple of Jupiter.St John Baptist (recent) bronze statue in place of Jupiter... a wink to our baritone Guilhem.1View of the old harbour from the Cathedral

    Split

    September 25, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A night and a morning in Split.

    Split is a large city with a well-preserved centre built inside the walls of the immense palace of roman emperor Diocletian (ca 300 AD). The quality of roman construction is stunning.

    After a quick dinner in our room near the harbour, we wander by night in the narrow streets inside the palace. Magic of the lighting, of the grand 'bronze', 'iron', 'silver', and 'golden' gates. The town is quietly taken over by country music singers and wandering couples.

    At morning the buildings open, and we marvel through temples and cellars, the incredible archtecture, from bricks and vaults to sculptures. Why did Diocletian decorate the ceiling with the forty figures of human emotions and, at the same time, execute thousands of Christians?

    As the morning moves on, the crowd grows; time to go. We are filled with happy emotions as we set foot on the ferry to Hvar Island.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    We find a grrreat spot for the tent, one terrace above the sea. (Sunrise)
    Arriving in afternoon light in a little village on Hvar islandJelsa in late afternoonHumac, a little village on top of Hvar Island, restoration of original lifestyle protected by lawPerhaps a grape juice (or oil-) collecting stone?Last sunrise in HvarAlong the Napoléon road. Hard agriculture where small plots are surrounded by huge piles of rocksPiles and piles of stonesHvar harbour was an opulent city in Venetian timesHvar harbour, with the arsenal (17th century)

    Tent with a view

    Sep 25–29, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We land on Hvar in Stari Grad, the north harbour, at 17h30. The light is superb. After a short ride along the only flat area of the island, among old dry stone walls, vineyards, and olive tree plantations, we find an absolutely ace camping spot. Views of moon- and sun rise, one terrace above a swim in the sea.

    As luck has it, our insides chose this moment to go on strike, in alternance. We end up spending three days of hmm... recovering, in this heaven.

    We manage a day tour to the top of the island, discovering a 270 degrees viewpoint on the sea. We find old dwellings, igloo-like shelters of limestone, built by shepherds/farmers living off sheep and goats, figs, olive oil, wine and honey. An old village with arches and stone roofs is being restored.

    To move to our next target, Korcula Island, we need to cross the very top of the Island. Part of this road was build by the French in Napoleonic times, and reveals more of the original agricultural organization.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    Venetian style arches in Korcula old town
    Agricultural central valleyDescending to the west of KorculaLunch on the shore looking over to our next peninsulaKorcula old town entranceNarrow streets lead to the cathedralYet another Adam and Eve!1Shucks. Even Alain is now in danger...Leaving Korcula

    Korcula island

    September 30, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Our next Dalmatian island is Korcula. We arrive at sunset by catamaran and stay in a small apartment overlooking the sea. It is getting harder to find places to stay, even with the ongoing warm and sunny weather.
    Korcula is hilly but more agricultural than Hvar. We climb and ride with views to the south and then, crossing over the central spinal valley, views to the North. Then it's down down into Korcula walled old town for a gentle exploration before catching the ferry to an island-shaped peninsula on the mainland.    Read more

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieTraveler
    1The "Great Wall of Europe"
    The little Strait from Korcula to the continentClever choice of route takes us to the road along the coastAfter the tunnel, a tiny road above the sea all for ourselves, in the morning sunArriving at the Ston fortress -- stunning!We walk up and down the old fortress into Mali StonIt's a bit tough after a day of cycling

    The walls of Ston and Mali Ston

    October 1, 2023 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Back from Korcula, we camp on the continent. Small incident: we run out of fuel for the stove, just as we cook our first ground beef in ages. Ahem, we ponder on how to get just 0.8 litres of petrol and discuss the various tricks found on internet... since the minimal purchase is 2 litres.
    We conclude by adding cheese to the menu and volunteer Alain to go get petrol first thing in the morning. He is very proud to return, with 0.89l of petrol and a 1.44 euro credit card receipt, delivered in complete indifference by the cashier. All that before a coffee.

    We start the 122km road to Dubrovnik on a beautiful tiny windy hilly route along the sea. By 15:00 we are halfway and come to the fantastic site of the walls of Ston. A decision is quickly made to call it a day, and climb the steeply stepped nearly 3 km of wall that link Ston and Mali Ston... As it turns out, this is the defence wall of the town/state of Ragusa. (More on Ragusa tomorrow).

    We find a good room. The owner lady remembers in the morning that we are in October and gives us back 5 Euros. Nice!    Read more

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