Nice try

Changing up the bicycle for a motorcycle for 5 days of getting into the mountains is a great idea for tired legs.

I rent a motorcycle at the last minute and I end up with an Indian built Hero 200cc. The weather is not cooperating so I plan a ride to the border with Azerbaijan where there are dry steppe and interesting formations and bubbling mud.

This bike is not new. The owner says this is the last time he'll rent it out. He says riding the high mountain passes is not recommended since there is no cell service there. He can't come get me there either. Mmmm what am I in for?

Fully loaded, the old bike has enormous cachet. My first stop is at the Chronicles of Georgia. An older man walks up to me and finally gets me to understand his question, how many miles on this bike? I gesture a 4 2 6 0 0. His eyes pop and he enthusiastically gives thumbs up. Yeah, this bike had seen a lot of action, the engine has been rebuilt twice.

I get near the Azerbaijani border, a zone of serious contention and it is generally recommended to not get closer than 4km if you do not want to get shot at. But this area is apparently okay because there is a monastery, ok well if you say so...

Luck is about to turn as the shift lever comes off and I'm stuck in first gear. It's going to be a long way back, but I manage to get it back on with a rock. Now trust in the old bike is a bit broken especially for reaching up high and deep in to the most serious mountain range Europe can throw at you. I return to the shop in the pouring rain and thunder. Still it was an interesting experience.

Back in Tbilisi there must be something going on, few hotel rooms remain and I go for the hostel option. I can't find it for an hour, finally the daughter of the owner guides me in. No signs at all. I had already cancelled but checked out the room, it's a small dark bunker, easily the absolute worst hostel I have ever seen. I walked right out and got a decent room.

You never know what you are going to bump into on these travels, but the breakfast was a great buffet. Dinner too, went back to the restaurant on the river and had another Caesar salad and cheese kinkhali.Read more