Tskhratskaro Pass

A cup of coffee from the machine in the supermarket and some food for the road. I'm going to tackle the big pass, at worst I will get turned around if it is actually closed for the sign.

It's a wide dirt road with huge potholes that large dump trucks are driving through hauling full loads down from the mountain somewhere.

I finally see a regular passenger car meaning that it is actually open, as is often the case in Georgia signs don't mean anything, just do what the locals do.

The past leads to a high plateau which has incredible vistas. There is a cold wind blowing and I am wearing all my clothes and the thick full gloves. The scenery is stunning in the far distance you can clearly make out the volcanoes.

Down in the valley on a tractor track I come through a village where they are stacking hay and I am invited in for coffee and get to talk to the crew. They pretty much work all the time on the farm there is so much to do. 30 cows and potatoes and sugar beets are harvested.

Khertvisi castle stands on a rock overlooking three valleys. It is stunningly well preserved. One of these valleys is a significant historical location in Georgian history - Vardzia.

The Airbnb has not been operating for five years is what the man gestures to me. So I find a new place with Aleksandre, where I have a fun-filled conversation with him and a French guest and a few chachka shots.Read more