Gyumri

Time to ride into the city. My cold is still trying to get out of my chest. A long day is not advised especially since the weather is cold and wet. 44km with 500m gain or 33km with 230m gain? It's an easy call. Then it's raining harder and harder, two hats and my buff are on my head, water is running in my shoes, I motor on uphill and down the big descent into the city where the storm has already passed.

I book yet another great hotel room, that's 3 for 3.

A reconnaissance around town yields a few pictures. What mostly stands out is how much Armenians like sweets and the number of flower shops that are in the second largest city in this country of just 3 million. The Armenians could teach the Georgians a thing or two about paving, the roads are far better here.

The iron fountain was built in the center of the polytechnic university in 1982. A mere 6 years later 80% of the buildings in this city were destroyed in an earthquake. Many have still not been rebuilt. As if wars, genocide, geographical challenges and poverty weren't enough.

Snorhakalachu is 'thank you' in Armenian.Read more