Monasteries

Odzun church right outside my room took me by surprise, maybe because I did not expect the vibe.

I rode down into Debed valley, met an Italian bicycle touring and later a Dutchman, both older single guys escaping reality.

Sanahin monastery was organically old, very old, I have seen many churches but this one had a very special energy. The dark walls, the light beams, the space, everything just radiated ancientness. I was lucky to have to place almost to myself. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanahin_Monastery

On the map it's a logical and easy jaunt to the next monastery on the plateau between the peaks and the valley. But it turns out a portion of it is a true hiking path down the cliff wall. I have to do it like the boaters, portage the bags and the bike separately. It's a whole new experience, I've never had to do this.

On the way down the cliff is the entrance to Lastuer cave, inhabited as early as 8000 years ago as evidenced by an obsidian knife. https://www.lastuer.am/#exhibits

The Haghpat monastery is overrun with tourbus ethnicities. It does not have much feel, sure it's an impressive structure but it doesn't breathe. It took an enormous effort to get there, you just never know. However, in it's heyday it was the most important monastery in Armenia.

Half way down the hill I eat dinner on a sunny deck. Armenian soup with sour cream and bread. I look at camp sites and the best one is back up the 8% hill. Oh well, here's to another 300 meters!

I have a second dinner with Franck and Christelle who have been touring central Asia and eastern Europe for 2 years in their van.Read more