Faro

October 2023
Heard too much about it, since I'm close I took advantage of cheap TAP airfares that gain mileage and status legs on my United mileage account. I wanted to go have a look. Read more
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  • 234kilometers
  • Day 1–5

    Travel day to Faro

    October 19, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    An ardous day for travel. Up at 4 to catch a plane at 6. I drop the rental car key in the lock box, half an hour later I realize I left my passport in the car. Panic. I run back, how to get into the car? Well I didn't lock it, lol, that was lucky.

    The flight into Lisbon is out into a holding pattern, windshear is gusting 41 knots, the pilot does an excellent job landing the plane, but this was one of the top 10 hardest landings I have experienced in 60 years. Now that I'm a glider pilot I can appreciate this so much more.

    I kinda laugh at the people wearing COVID masks. Come on that's over with. And we'll see about that 🫣. In Lisbon I get to go into the lounge courtesy of United. Great free food and drinks. I have just an hour. But departures are delayed. With airport snafus I end up catching the later plane. In the airport quite a few people are coughing and sneezing. I had been noticing that.

    The A319 to Faro is dealing with this weather still. Just four rows from the back I get shaken sideways so much I wonder if we are going to exceed the structural strength of the vertical stabilizer and I wonder if the pilot of over controlling the rudder. He is flying with a joy stick and I can't imagine how much finesse you can have with that. It's a bit harrowing including the few hundred foot sudden air pocket drop.

    In Faro there is an amazing sunset on arrival, birds are singing in a bougainvilla, and I walk around the small downtown filled with restaurants and old history.

    These two months on the road started on a huge high. The small towns of the Camino are such wonderful places. I kept that high going despite using rental cars and cities in the Azores, Flores was great and I could have stayed there for 4 more days, especially with the people that were there at the pink house.

    Faro is different, Algarve is a beach resort and that comes with lots of traffic and stretched out residential areas. Here you need to be in the marina on a boat.
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  • Day 2

    The famous Algarve cliffs

    October 20, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Wondering what to do here. I hadn't made any plans as usual, but this time I actually had no idea what is here, except the beach and that might just be fine. Dieter pointed me to the Alentejano trail of 200km on the coast North of Sagres. I was thinking of driving there but it is a bit too far and it is worth doing the right way. Walk it.

    So I'm going to do the touristy thing and go the beach at Benagil. No luck for a SUP to visit the grotto, a recent accident closed the area. Marinha beach is open and wonderful. I stop at the Lidl to get some food and there is a Dutch market across the road! I get some nice licorice for my scratchy throat.

    I had been feeling all mellow and was contributing it to my new state of mind that I've be working on. But walking up the hill to the car I could feel something is way off. All energy is gone! I'm wasted. I caught a real cold, well maybe looking dopey at the airport really pays off.

    I'm flat on my back on the beach, it's hot, sunny, and there's a little wind. Perfect, no reason to go anywhere else and it took long enough to get here. I meditate in my cold induced stupor, and I end up on yet another level of connection with the universe. I should try mushrooms at some point. 5 hours later I roll back to the hostel with a detour to Albufeira hoping to catch the sunset.

    The residents of this hostel have more of a party mindset and sleeping in, very different from the Camino mindset of getting up at 6 or before and getting a good walk in. All in all the Faro experience is going to be different than the rest of the past two months. I know what I like and make a mental note.
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  • Day 3

    Down day with cold

    October 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This cold is a bummer. I worry about the rest of the trip. Best thing I can do is rest. Just lay down and sleep.

    I took the time to write 2 posts. It's a tea and licorice rest day.I could be in a worse place, this hostel is a great old mansion like home on a plaza. Roof decks, courtyard, lots of common places.Read more

  • Day 4

    Another hostel day

    October 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    It's raining hard outside. It would not have been much of a beach day anyway. The front desk has a classic jazz channel going with Galt McDermott playing Coffee Cold. Fantastic.

    The residents are all hanging out on their devices in their corners.

    The Scotsman, Trevor, who usually dwells on the beach under his boat, came in to escape the rain. He is very good about keeping his clothes clean and there is no way you can tell he is living this lifestyle. He also likes it north of Banjul in Senegal, despite the mosquitoes. He is a character, looks a bit like a gypsy with a light grey head sock, long white locks dangling out on the sides of his face and a trim white beard, tanned and weathered skin from being outside all the time. His eyes tell stories, if he doesn't start in on one. His father was a cultivated man, engineer but always stressed, his mother a gypsy, easy going and loving. He never got to stay in one place long growing up, so as a single child he learned to adapt to new circumstance.

    My cold is getting better but I still need more rest, back to bed. It's Sunday and everything is closed anyway. I sleep deeply and am woken up to the dumbest, loudest conversation in a long time. I finally ask them to take it to the living room. But it's too late I lost out on deep slumber. Vexing but I must accept that the universe is conspiring to not let me sleep.

    The storm didn't seem so bad from inside the 300 year old hostel, but once outside I saw the utter destruction of trees in town. Branches, limbs and entire trees were downed. Faro lost a hundred trees today.

    I get the car but it is stuck in the parking garage, where there was free parking for the weekend, but I need to pay 46 euros which I wasn't prepared for, so I slipped the car between and under the bars just like I slipped through the bars at the hostel in Lugo. What an escape artist.

    Got dinner and gas, all set to cook a meal. At the dinner table I meet Lucy, a thirty something Dutch woman, and Trevor joins us. The three of us have a great conversation that goes as deep and deeper than any on the Camino. Trevor knows what I am finding out about and we can share it and we see if Lucy has an inkling, which she doesn't. Trevor can sit with the birds on the sand bar and giggle in observing and being with the innocence of all of it. He does routinely what I got to feel a few days ago. Crying while laughing in joy of the overwhelming moment of fully being there, connected and one with all that is around you. All the emotions available exist at once. Everything is perfect as it is. He confirms what I now know. I needed to meet him. I have gratitude for the serendipity.

    No picture of Trevor, he didn't want one taken. He will live in my mind's eye.
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