Italy

June - July 2024
  • Uncle Woully
A 4-week bicycling trip in Southern Italy, especially hoping to focus on Sicily. Read more
  • Uncle Woully

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Backpacking, Bicycle, Solo travel, Tours
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  • 27footprints
  • 28days
  • 340photos
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  • To Foceta Sicula

    June 23, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The jaw dropper was seeing the Stromboli volcano through the haze come into to focus suddenly and my jaw dropped again at the first sight of the straight of Messina. I am just amazed I am living this.

    Today's target was Scilla, but it was more touristy than I expected and no camp ground, and I actually got there to early. Instead of staying I caught the ferry to Sicily together with a mob of BMW motorcyclists, and being a BMW owner myself I felt right at home with all those 1200s.

    I was warned multiple times that Sicily is a bit of a mess but the people are super nice. But the first impression of Messina is of a well-maintained city with nice architectural buildings including one from the Byzantine time.
    I've been listening to a book on tape about Sicilian history.
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  • Alto Montana Etna

    June 25, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Yesterday I positioned myself below Mt Etna, the highest active volcano in Europe at 3300m. Today I rode my bike up with very tired legs to the base station at Sapienza. Fab lunch in the warm sun on a touristy terrace. A bit late but then I set off to the Alto Montana trail. On the way I was looking for refugios to stay at tonight. Santa Barbara was closed, but at Carpinteria the side shed was open, I swept up, left my reduced gear and left for the trail that runs though the lava flows. This volcano is so active, that on maps you will see flows dating to 2016, 2015, 2003, 2002 the 90s and many prior.

    It is closely monitored by volcanologists but it would always be possible that the thing could just go at any moment.

    The view over the Sicilian hills and back country below from 2000 m up is amazing through the haze, when you have just been listening to the history of the last few millennia.
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  • Mt Etna climb & eruptions

    June 26, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Climbed up Mt Etna with a group and a guide. I was expecting hundreds of people on top but everybody spread out and I was able to have some space to get the feeling of really being there.

    Just as we got to the top one of the craters erupted to everybody's surprise. The Etna sits on the European tectonic plate just in the area where the African plate slides underneath, this is responsible for the continuous volcanic activity. The section we were walking on had erupted in December of 2023. It was a fairly cool flow and was accessible not too long afterwards. Currently the risk for a large explosion is smaller than usual as the dome is shrinking. In 2002 and 2003 was the last larger eruption.Read more

  • Downhill to the coast

    June 27, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Yesterday I ran down the hill under the cable car and got down there almost as fast as the group I was with. Of course, today I am paying the price for that folly.

    All I did was glide down the hill from 750 meters to zero elevation, where I pitched my tent under a shady tree canopy, did my laundry, and now I need rest, so I take a nap and I get in the water to swim.

    My neighbors in camp yesterday are Dutch and French, and I had a great time talking with them this morning again delaying my departure by a good hour and a half, but it was fun and I got a good idea. Marcel has been doing the vendange at a French chateau called Cheval Blanc. It is apparently quite a great time at one of the upper chateaus like that.

    I buy dinner at the supermarket because the pizzeria at the campground has no pizza, I get a great healthy salad nuts and cheese, that I devour sitting on the volcanic coastline where the waves are lapping against the shore as the sun is setting behind me.

    A helicopter comes by and keeps flying around, at first I thought they were just scanning for basic safety but it turns out something happened out there because an hour later he still hovering and there is a coast guard boat nearby.
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  • Triple swim to Siracusa

    Jun 28–Jul 4, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Even though I rested yesterday my legs are still fried so I am hoping that the 74 km are reachable, they are flat mostly so I should be able to start early and roll slowly. First stop is Catania for a roll through the sights to see snd photograph.

    I take some breaks and the legs actually wake up a bit and I'm able to go along the shoreline which adds 30km. It sets me up to get three good swims in crystal clear waters.

    In Siracuse I get out of the shower just in time to walk swiftly to the port where the sunset is about to happen. I finally get a pizza again.

    On the way back I come by a Cafe where locals are singing 80s and 90s rock songs, they all get into it and it is a joy to watch them on a warm Friday night. I've been at it since 5 am and it's going on midnight, I ought to turn in.
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  • Archeology in Siracusa

    June 29, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I'm trying to be a good tourist today. It was easier forty years ago. Now we are being channeled and herded so much that the element of discovery is no longer easy to attain.

    The open air archaeological site in Siracusa presents a Greek amphitheater and a huge quarry as well as a Roman amphitheater. In one place you can try to imagine being a Greek at a theater performance by Euripide or Plauto or attending a Roman gladiator event and wild animal battles in this oval arena. Just those two civilizations cover a thousand years. Before there were Elleni, Phoenicians and Etruscans, after were many, but notably Byzantines and Normans in the middle ages and a strong Baroque period as witnessed on Ortigia island.

    Almost every town in Sicily was destroyed at least three times and entire populations were displaced and replaced. Quite incomprehensible by today's standards. Sicily might be the most historically diverse location on earth, over millennia so many different occupiers have ruled this island.

    After a delicious lunch I visit the archeology museum, it's medium sized but holds an enormous collection of ancient coins going back to when coins came into existence some 2500 years ago. You can see them under armored glass in a bank like vault. No photos allowed. The museum is impressive as much as the heat outside is oppressive.

    In the evening, after a restorative nap, I watch a Eurocup match outside on one of the many piazza on Ortigia. There is a lot of nightlife there.
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  • Ortigia exploration

    June 30, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    The temperature is forecast in the high 90s today. I got out early enough and walk around the ramparts and have a cornetto and cappuccino on a terrace overlooking the water.

    The papyrus museum is interesting as it creates yet another geographic connection, this time between Egypt and Sicily. Papyrus was imported and grown on Sicily. Some original papyrus texts with Greek writing are displayed.

    On the Piazza del Duomo stands the most varied church in existence I believe. Originally a Greek temple, then Roman, Arab, Byzantine, Norman, and the more recent Europeans from France, Schwaben, Bourbon and Spain. The church is an incredible mix of architectural and religious elements.

    It's hot and two museums are closed time to go lay on the rock that Ortigia calls their beach. A good nap and a swim later I clean up at the hostel and go out on the town and watch two European cup matches.
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  • To Noto, UNESCO heritage

    July 1, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    To get to Noto, which is a city that was highly recommended to visit for its Baroque rebuild after the 1693 earthquake that leveled most of southeastern Sicily, it was only a 2 and 1/2 hour bike ride. This leaves lots of time on this hot day to visit the beach.

    I had a list of 10 recommended beaches that were labeled the most beautiful but as I was riding I saw this platform that was a public beach but felt more like that private high-end setup on this beautiful rocky cove. I stayed there for hours napping on a canapé. On to Spiaggia Fontana Bianche, a fine white sand beach where I swam and napped some more. What a feeling to just relax in the warmth.

    Of course I got lost again riding up into the hills and that's how you find the unexpected. A way to build a flat roof with tile and an implementation of an infinity pool in a manner that really stood out. I had to climb some very steep dirt roads to find this area though. I saw a classic Citroen Mehari, just like the one we owned and drove in the late 70s. Then set up camp near Noto and went into town for dinner out.
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  • Noto day

    July 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Woke up to lightning and thunder at 4:00 a.m. The tent is shaking in the wind, l stake it down further and lay back down.

    The camping is 25 for the night and I find a place in town, very nice I might add, for just 33. I roll down the hill to cafe Sicilia on Marcel's recommendation. Great for sitting and people watching and an amazing assortment of confiseries.

    The Chiesa di San Domenico is my first visit. The Cattedrale de San Nicolò was damaged in the 1990 earthquake, but in 1996 the roof finally caved in. It was rebuilt and reopened in 2007, it's fascinating to see the damaged archival photo and the re-construction. It looks a bit too new for me. A quick stop to check in and do laundry and back to town, only to find teatro Tina di Lorenzo and Palazzo Ducezio closed.

    Chiesa di Montevergine is the last church, and I find it the most authentic, alike with the first two. This one had the bell tower to climb for an excellent view over Noto.

    The ambiance of being in Italy is not lost on me, it's wonderfully warm, not overly touristy. I'm looking for a dinner, sicilian orange salad, caneloni and ricotta mousse to polish it all off.
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