Ballygalley Head

Today we are making our way to Derry via the Antrim Coast, which will take us along the north east cost of Northern Island. The drive is picturesque which causes an issue - where will we stop, as we could stop at every picturesque location.

Our first stop was Carrickfergus Castle, in the lovely town of Carrickfergus, in County Antrim. It is one of Northern Island’s earliest Norman castles, built in 1177 by John DeCourcy shortly after the invasion of Ulster. It has survived attacks by Scots, Irish, English and French, and has served as an air raid shelter for the people of Carrickfergus during WWII.

Walking around the castle you get the sense of why it was located here - with 3/4 of the castle perimeter surrounded by water. Walls range in thickness from 2 to 4 metres. The main structure is built with multiple levels containing kitchen spaces, feast halls, entertaining and sleeping quarters.

We walked around the upper walls where armed men would keep watch over the surrounding area for any likely invaders. These upper walkways provided tremendous views of the nearby harbour and surrounding countryside.

We ventured into what is known as The Constable’s Quarters, who was appointed by the Crown to manage the castle, especially when the monarch was not in residence. While there we were shown around by one of informative guides who encouraged us to try on the chain mesh headgear and robes, which we did. Wearing the chain mesh headgear would tire your neck muscles very quickly, so goodness knows how those having to wear these in the day managed.

We looked the part in our new gear, but it was (Princess) Katie who stole the show. Note the photo with Katie sitting andI behind her.

By now we were feeling in need of a cuppa and a snack. So next stop was Whitehead, a large seaside village on the east coast of County Antrim, lying between the towns of Carrickfergus and Larne. We found the coastal cafe where we enjoyed coffee and ice creams, all the while collecting a much needed spoon with which to serve our salad for lunch. (We shall not say any more about this matter - we reminded Dad often during the course of the day).

The drive took us through many picturesque towns and villages, amongst them Ballygally where we stopped to have lunch (yes the spoon came in handy), Glenarm, Carnlough, Cushenden and Ballintoy, where the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge is located.

It is a famous landmark and popular tourist destination for those travelling along the Antrim Coast. Providing An exhilarating connection between the mainland and the tiny island of Carrickarede. It was first erected by salmon fishermen in 1755 to enable them to check their salmon nets. In Gaelic, the name ‘Carraig-a-Rade’ means ‘The Rock in the Road’, referring to an obstacle for the migrating salmon as they search for the river in which they were born.

The original rope bridge has thankfully been replaced with a steel wire bridge with wooden planks on which to walk, as it spans 20 metres (66 feet) and is suspended almost 100 feet above the wild Atlantic Ocean. As you walk over it you feel it gently swaying back and forth in the breeze or when someone else on the bridge wants to make it swing.

To give some perspective on how popular the Carrick-a-Rede bridge is - in 2018 it attracted 485,736 visitors - and that was before COVID.

By this stage it was 4:30pm and we still had The Giants Causeway to visit. We arrived at the car park to learn that it the centre was closing in 15 minutes. We could have walked the 20 minutes or so from another car park but steady rain prevented us from venturing any further. In any case my fellow travellers had to be content with my recollections and photos of when I walked onto the Giants Causeway in 2014.

The Giants Causeway consists of approx. 40,000 interlocking mainly hexagonal basalt columns, the result of an ancient volcanic eruption. The tops of the columns form stepping stones that lead from the cliff top and disappear under the sea.

Legend has it that the columns are the remains of a causeway built by an Irish giant, Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool). The giant was challenged to a fight by the Scottish giant Benandonner. Fionn accepted the challenge and built the causeway across the North Channel so the two could meet.

A few kilometres away is the town of Bushmills, home to the famous Bushmills Whisky Distillery and also to Granny Jeanie’s Tea Rooms. By this stage of the day we were all tired and very much aware that our Airbnb in Derry was still an hour’s drive away. So a cuppa and scones was in order. An interesting tea room with the front of the shop being a fresh fruit and produce store and the tea room at the back of the store.

It appeared to be closed until Dad asked Carson, the elderly gentleman sitting behind the counter if we could get a cuppa and scones. He indicated the tea rooms were closed but would ask the cook first. The ‘cook’, being his lovely wife Claire, was sitting next to him and without her uttering a word Carson told us we could get a cuppa and scones. Assisted by their daughter, Frida, the tea and scones were on their way. We enjoyed chatting with them about the town and also about the Twelfth Parades which happened all over Northern Ireland today.

As it happened the parade for Bushmills was due at 5:30 and we were there to witness it. The whole town comes out to see the parade, such is the loyalty of people in Northern Ireland.

We then drove to our accommodation in Derry, arriving at approx . 7:30 - time for dinner and relaxing by the TV.

The much needed pint of the day was Belfast Lager, a crisp lager brewed by Whitewater Brewing Company in Castlewellan.Read more