Whaley Bridge

The upper section of the Peak Forest Canal branches near its head and comes to a Y shaped end at both Whaley Bridge and Bugsworth Basin. The cruise from Disley to Whaley Bridge was just beautiful and Vicky was even well enough to take Rainboat through the swing bridge while Will opened and closed it.

We weren't the only ones to appreciate the scenic rural surrounds. Our route was lined with hundreds of narrowboats at permanent moorings on the towpath and at marinas. Luckily there weren't too many out and about because their presence narrowed the channel and it would have been a tight squeeze to pass an oncoming boat.

The sun was out when we arrived at Whaley Bridge, turned in the basin and tied up under the white blossoms of a leafless cherry tree to fill with water. A sign announced that the boaters' bins had been removed and that the nearest facilities were at Bugsworth Basin, along the other terminus arm. A lot of refuse sites have recently closed because of a law coming into force that composting must be provided. The CRT don't have the money / space / contracts to provide this at every existing site so rather than break the law they've closed many down altogether.

We'd planned to continue to Bugsworth but another sign advertising a food and arts market caught our eye. It was due to take place in and around the transhipment warehouse at the head of the basin the following day so we decided to take advantage of the one mooring space available and stay. It was a noisy spot with the A6 running along the off side and a railway up the hillside beyond that. Even the water was noisy, being whipped up into waves and slapping against rocks where the bank had collapsed. A thin corridor of towering Beech trees separated the canal from the River Goyt running a similar course down the valley.

Permanently moored boats had commandeered the strips of grass either side of the towpath. Steps, trolleys and firewood along with buckets and troughs filled with plants, plastic flowers and decorations narrowed the passage. It was difficult to pass people at times but the Leo and Tiger Lilly loved sniffing all the scents left by other dogs and it was impossible to stop Leo cocking his little leg against every peed on patch he found.

We are really pleased we stayed for the market. It was only small with a dozen or so gazebos set up outside and a smaller number of tables inside the transhipment warehouse. The canal entered the warehouse via an arched hole in the wall. Boats would be loaded and unloaded onto train wagons on the tracks either side of the channel. A large wood and paper model of a chinook helicopter hung from the beams above the water, commemorating the 2019 military action to avert disaster when the nearby Toddbrook Reservoir wall was at risk of collapse, potentially flooding Whaley Bridge and surrounding settlements.

Will tasted and bought two bottles gin from the Blue John Distillery in Whaley Bridge. It is named after the UK's rarest semi precious gemstone that is found only under the nearby Treak Cliff. About half a tonne is mined annually in the off season, while in the peak season the miners become guides showing tourists around the Blue John and Treak Cliff Carverns.

We got some bottles Dunham Massey apple juice and lamb shanks from a farm stall that also sold wool spun from its own Texel and Jacob sheep. Marmalady sold us a couple of jars of marmalade, lemon curd and a homemade plum crumble but our best find was a spalted Alder fruit bowl made by Crafty Clive. He was so enthusiastic about his work, showing us how he made use of all the little offcuts by crafting pens and curios.

We climbed the short distance into the village in search of a light lunch but the pubs were either closed or didn't serve food and the cafés were too full. Will picked up some fish and chips on the way back and we chilled for the rest of the day.Read more