• Vicky 'n' Will's Travels
Currently traveling
Apr 2023 – Sep 2025

Rainboat

Life continuously cruising the canals and rivers of England and Wales. Read more
  • Art and eating out at Stone

    April 9 in England ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The land around the canal is flat and the large houses have sprawling gardens. We're still enjoying glorious Spring sunshine, making views of young lambs and nesting birds picture perfect.

    Stone is very popular with boaters and there wasn't much room to moor. A kind person saw us looking for a space and moved their boat back so we could squeeze in front of them. They were on a hire boat with their grown kids and grandkids. This time of year there is often a lot of grumbling from some livaboards about the canals being too busy and the behaviour of hire boaters who speed or crash in to things. It is less peaceful than winter and a few hire boaters aren't considerate or careful but overall, seeing the joy that boating brings to so many people only enhances life on the canals for us.

    These warmer months also see boat traders proffering their wares. Will found The Oatcake Boat cooking Staffordshire oatcakes. He had one filled with cheese and brought back one with vegan cheese for Vicky. It was good to try but she wasn't too impressed. Something we were both impressed by were the paintings and drawings for sale from Arts Aboard Aloysius. Sue paints canal scenes, pet portraits and wildlife among other things on slate, and mirrors. She also creates watercolour, pastel and pencil art on paper. We really enjoyed chatting to her about her work and came away with a slate depicting the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and a stag on a mirror.

    The following day Vicky's Dad and stepmum arrived in their new motorhome. Parking was very difficult for them so Dad took the van out of town while Will ate at The Star and Sarah took Vicky for a pre birthday lunch at Bear on Stone highstreet. There were lots of interesting dishes and drinks to try and it was great to be treated and spend time with Sarah.

    Will brought the dogs to meet Sarah and Vicky on the towpath on their way back and lots of furry cuddles ensued. Sarah, who is used to her two working breed Labradors had forgotten how teeny our two terrors are. After swinging by Rainboat to say hello to Abby, Sarah was picked by Dad and they went to find their campsite.
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  • Weston

    Apr 4–6 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Leaving Tixhall Wide we returned to Haywood Junction and tied up at the water point. While Rainboat's water tank was filling, Will went to the Anglo Welsh chandlery and bought items he'd need to service her engine. It had been over 3 weeks since we'd ordered them from Kings Orchard Marina and they still hadn't arrived. Anglo Welsh is a Canaline engine specialist so had the oil filters etc in stock.

    The cruise included 2 locks which Tiger seems to be coping with a lot better thanks to the tryptophan based calming tablets. The official moorings at Weston were close to a sewage plant so we moored a little way beyond them, in view of a picturesque church steeple. Leaves on the branches of a large sycamore were budding overhead and the air was alive with birdsong and honks of geese from a large pond just out of view. We even heard the cries of a Red Kite flying high above us.
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  • Tixall Wide

    March 31 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We're on our way up the Trent and Mersey Canal to meet Vicky's Dad and Stepmum at Stone, but we took a little detour onto the Staffs and Worcester Canal to moor at Tixall Wide.

    The good weather seems to be bringing all the boaters out on to the water. For the first time in many months we found ourselves in a queue for a lock, with 3 boats ahead of us! Luckily there was space to moor and wait. Will lent a hand at the lock, chatting to the other boat folk, including vloggers Julie and Martin on Rhapsody in Blue. Vicky stayed with the boat, letting the dogs have a pootle up and down the towpath.

    Once through, we cruised for a while then pulled up for a bite to eat, letting thr rush pass us by before the next lock. We sat on the stern while a pair of Treecreepers chased one another around a wide oak trunk, a Jay hopped from branch to branch on the opposite bank and a grey squirrel took time for a drink and quick wash on the narrow sandy shore. Spring really is a great time to be on a boat!

    From here it wasn't far to Haywood Junction and on to Tixall Wide. This broad stretch of water lies within sight of the impressive Tixall Hall Gatehouse. The hall itself was demolished in 1927 but rumour has it that Thomas Clifford, the owner at the time the canal was built, gave permission for it to pass through his land only on the condition that it was made to look like a lake, so as not to spoil the view! Another possible explanation is that the canal was routed via an already existing lake to make the job of construction easier.

    Whatever it's origin story, the broad stretch of water is very picturesque and very popular with boaters. There was only one space left by the time we arrived, but Will executed an impressive 180° turn and guided Rainboat straight in to it.

    That evening we saw 6 buzzards flying together and later on, a large murder of crowds circling up a thermal like a helix. Canadian and Greylag Geese loved the expanse of water and the wide band of reeds bordering the far bank. They would fly away to forage during the day and return with a ruckus as the sun dipped, flapping their wings, spraying water as their webbed feet splashed down and honking loudly as they reestablished their positions.

    Will cycled to Haywood Junction most days, lunching at the Clifford Arms, and shopping at the farm and refill shop there. Beside the towpath we spotted a wooden plaque engraved with the names of boaters and boats who had been locked down here during the early days of Covid. There was also a touching memory garden with small plaques dedicated to two Basset Hounds who had loved staying here on their boat 🥰
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  • Rugeley

    Mar 29–30 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    This Spring sunshine is a real treat to travel in. We cruised through Armitage and past a factory making toilets. From here we plunged into Armitage tunnel whose walls were carved out of bedrock. Tiger Lilly, who got lots of praise, comfort and treats, coped better than expected with this. We've been giving her a Tryptophan based daily calming tablet to try and stop her movement disorder episodes and it seems to be helping.

    We moored in Rugeley between a row of brown brick terraces and the grounds of a factory. It may not have been the most picturesque of settings but it was very close to several large supermarkets. Will made numerous trips to these and one to Kev's Pets to get Tiger Lilly some gluten free kibble. Apparently gluten is a trigger in many cases of movement disorder so we're going to keep her gluten free from now on.

    Vicky made it out with Will and the dogs to drop off some items at the Farplace animal charity shop. Rugeley had a number of charity shops as well as quite a few small businesses. Even so the town centre did look a bit downtrodden. Leo and Tiger were given lots of fuss and treats at Farplace, with Leo leaping from his bag on to the counter to pose for a photo the volunteer wanted to take of him. It made his day!
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  • Handsacre, Trent and Mersey Canal

    Mar 27–29 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We began today's cruise by topping up at the water point before Fradley Junction and getting the washing machine going again. Will took the remainder of the bins before walking ahead and opening the small swing bridge for Vicky to drive through. At the junction one boat was already turning in from the left and another appeared from the right just as Vicky was edging Rainboat's bow into the channel. We wouldn't like to tackle this turning in peak season!

    We headed west towards Stoke on Trent, waiting for the boat ahead of us to exit the lock before we could enter. There were a further two locks after this, then the terrain flattened out. We passed walkers and cyclists enjoying the sunshine on the wide chalky towpath. The land around us remained pastoral, interspersed by stretches of deciduous woodland.

    We've been very worried about Tiger recently because her episodes of Paroxysmal Dyskinesia (Movement Disorder), which normally occur once a month, have been clustering and even happening twice on a couple of days. Historically many dogs have been misdiagnosed with idiopathic epilepsy (as Tiger was) and as a result veterinary medicine has not progressed far in finding a treatment. Vicky had engaged research mode and read everything she could find, from the results of scientific trials to anecdotal advice on Facebook. Stress is one trigger and Tiger gets stressed while travelling. To help with this we've tried giving her a Tryptophan based relaxing treat. It seems to be helping her nerves. The sun relaxed her on today's cruise too.

    It was a shock to the system pulling up in the suburban town of Handsacre. We hadn't seen this many people in weeks! Will had an over priced but under parr cheese and onion cob at the nearby Crown, before picking up groceries and visiting the fishing shop.

    Back on Rainboat he was fishing from the stern when a boat cruised by with one of Whiskers posters in the window. People really have been kind and helpful when we've talked to them about him.

    One advantage of being in an urban area is being close to takeaways like Michael's Fish Bar. Vicky often has a salad wrap or pitta but Michael's has a falafel kebab which was a lot nicer! 5 stars Michael!
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  • Fradley Junction

    Mar 26–27 in England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Reluctantly we left Huddlesford and with it, the hope that Whiskers would return to Rainboat by his own means. We've done everything we can think of to increase the chances we'll be contacted if he is found.

    It was a relief to fill with water at Kings Orchard Marina and we topped up with diesel too. More than a fortnight ago Will had ordered items to service Rainboat's engine from here (oil and air filters etc). He'd checked in several times in between then and now but they still weren't in stock, which was disappointing. With our water tank full it was a relief to set the washing machine going as soon as we got underway.

    The sun was shining as we cruised and it was an absolute pleasure to see the progress of Spring in the flora along our green corridor. The birds twittered over the sound of the engine, flitting between the tops of trees to display themselves at their best.

    We hoped as we approached Fradley Junction that there would be a mooring spot available, otherwise we'd need to tackle a swing bridge, the turning and two locks before the next available spot. Luck was on our side and despite there being a large number of boats there were still plenty of spaces.

    Fradley Junction is where the Coventry meets the Trent and Mersey Canal. The Swan sits on the T of the junction and customers can watch the boats coming and going along both canals. Will nipped in for a veggie burger and pint and dropped off the first of many bags of rubbish at the refuse point on the way - hallelujah! While our water supply had been dwindling our bins had been overflowing. Vicky hung the washing outside and went to rest.

    Leo was over the moon to have somewhere new to explore so Vicky's nap didn't last as long as she'd have liked. He can be very insistent when he puts his mind to it!

    We only stayed one night because we wanted to reach Stone in a couple of weeks where we'd arranged to meet Vicky's stepmum and Dad.
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  • Huddlesford

    Mar 10–25 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Somewhere along our journey the canal changed from the Birmingham and Fazeley to the Coventry, but there was no obvious marker to say where.

    We moored at a wonderfully rural location. Grass fields spread away from the water and a tall hedge of mixed native species ran alongside the towpath, occasionally punctuated by mature oaks. We could see a farm over the canal and hear trains in the middle distance running along the line to Lichfield. A couple of bridges away was The Plough; the heart of a wealthy hamlet called Huddlesford.

    We visited the pub for lunch on Tuesday. It was pretty busy but we were seated in the dining room which lacked much of the atmosphere evident in the main area. When our meals finally arrived they were ok but far from hot. Will fed back to the waitress when they came to collect our plates and we left, a little disappointed.

    On Thursday Vicky took a taxi from the pub car park to Lichfield Trent Valley train station. The taxi was over 10 minutes late, the train 15 minutes late and her train from Tamworth to Newcastle 25 minutes late but there were no cancellations, for which she was grateful. When she arrived at her Dad and Sarah's house she opened a letter that had arrived that morning. The gynaecology appointment she'd travelled up for the next day was postponed by 1 week. 😭 However, the rest of her stay went well, with a crafting class, another medical appointment, haircut, an early Mothers Day lunch with Sarah and Ali and some relaxing quality time with the family.

    Meanwhile, back on Rainboat, Will hadn't seen Mr Whiskers since the day Vicky left. Nor could he be found when she returned. He hadn't been wearing his tracker because the hedges were so thick we thought he'd only lose it again. This was a big mistake. We extended our stay beyond the maximum 14 days allowed, tramping the towpaths calling his name and shaking his Dreamies jar. We shook out the cat bedding, left sardines outside and scattered sawdust from his litter tray under the hedge. We talked to boaters, residents and the farm. We flooded Facebook with 'missing' posters on cat and canal based groups, updated his microchip details to 'lost' and put his details into an online database the RSPCA uses to check any pets found. Vicky contacted the police, two local vets and the closest marina. We put up laminated posters near where we were moored, posted them through the doors of the 9 houses in Huddlesford and asked a tarmac business, The Plough and Kings Orchard Marina to display them.

    The weather was wonderful, the location was beautiful and peaceful, we watched flowers coming in to bloom and leaf buds emerging from the tips of tree branches. Will cycled to nearby Whittington and Lichfield for shopping and pub lunches and we gave The Plough another go. To our delight, the food was excellent quality and hot this time (perhaps due to the presence of a very friendly and highly efficient older woman who seemed to be in charge).

    We did all this but Whiskers' absence was always with us. Each bang on the stern had us hoping it was him coming home. We'd look for his eyes reflecting red in the torchlight when we took the dogs out at night.

    In the end we had to leave. We were eeking out the last of the water in the tank and our two week permitted stay was up. Whiskers is microchipped and had a collar with Vicky's mobile number sewed into it. We feel we did all we could to get him back. We just hope that he chose to go wandering and will come back to civilisation at some point like he did at High Acton Farm.
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  • The Tame Otter, Hopwas

    March 8 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    On our travels we'd seen a narrowboat called The Tame Otter and now we were moored near the pub. It had been recommended to Will by the owner of the fishing shop in Tamworth so we were keen to visit. Leaving the dogs with licky mats we walked the short distance for lunch. It was so warm that we took our drinks outside, joining most of the other patrons in the beer garden. The bar tender had recommended we order via the website which we did. The menu was a notch above typical pub grub but our meals took a long time to arrive and when they did Will's swordfish and prawn dish was missing its peas and Vicky's salad was missing pomegranate seeds. Nobody came to check on us and we only realised towards the end so we knocked them down a star on our review rather than complaining.

    Over the canal from the Tame Otter was the Red Lion and its beer garden. Both were heaving before long but there was a large group of men accross the water who were really rowdy. A few had their tops of and a couple hollered at some older teenage girls walking the towpath to get their 't**s out for the lads' 🤬 We were under the impression that the world had moved on from from the 90s but apparently not!

    What looked like a grown up extended family group were walking accross the bridge connecting the two pubs wearing blue football shirts. These hooligans all started chanting 'who the fuck, who the fuck, who the fuck do you think you are!'. The family continued accross to the Lion but soon returned to the Otter, with one supporting another with an arm under his armpits. A couple of police arrived not long after to talk to them before going and speaking to the men, who stayed on in the garden but quitened down at least a little.

    Other than this ruckus, our stay was pretty peaceful. We sat out enjoying the warm days, Vicky weeding the roof planters while Will fished. Even Abby did a bit of sunbathing!
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  • Tamworth

    March 3 in England ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Beyond the two Glascote locks it was a clear run to Fazeley Junction, where we turned right and filled with water. There used to be a rubbish disposal point here but it has been removed. Although many boat folk are quite environmentally conscientious there's a risk that the removal of too many of these facilities will lead to a rise in fly tipping. There is only so much room onboard.

    Fazeley Junction marked the start of new waters as we continued north west on part of the Birmingham Fazeley Canal we'd not yet explored. We stopped at
    a spot near Tamworth's retail parks, giving us the chance to pick up some shopping, including clippers we'd ordered for Tiger. She doesn't enjoy being groomed or clipped and the cheap pair we'd got originally kept snagging on her thick, tight curls. After a lot of research Vicky bought a good quality pair that are designed for thick coats and will hopefully make the experience less stressful for us both.

    We stayed almost a week at this mooring. The sun continued to shine, there was good access to a range of large shops and the chance to walk in a farm field that seemed to have been left to its own devices this year.

    Near the end of our stay we were returning from a dog walk when we spotted a guy on Rainboat's stern. Vicky called out to him and he casually stepped off and walked in the opposite direction. We ran after him but he disappeared up a side track with a little box of Will's fishing equipment. We'd had the bike chained under the seat, which he may have been eying up so we were just glad to have disturbed him when we did. We know we are taking a risk leaving things outside on the boat but overall we've had very little touble. All the same, Will put the bike inside and cleared away all remaining fishing paraphernalia (something Vicky was secretly pleased at 🤫). Handily there was a fishing shop in Tamworth town where he was able to replace his lost items. Tamworth is decent area and we reckon this one guy was just chancing his luck.
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  • Glascote Top Lock

    March 2 in England ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    A short journey took us from Polesworth to just before Glascote Top Lock, a little way from Tamworth town centre. We'd stayed here in November waiting for an engineer to fix our Eberspacher heating. We spent just the one night this time as the weather was good for cruising the next day.Read more

  • Polesworth and Pooley Country Park

    February 25 in England ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Moving on from Atherstone,.Will worked Rainboat through four locks to reach Polesworth moorings. We'd stopped here for lunch at The Bull before Christmas but time had been tight and we'd stayed further down the line. Vicky wasn't keen on the pub as some of the locals had been antagonisticly jokey, but now she was just glad to have somewhere to tie up and rest.

    The sun shone every day of our stay and so did the location this second time round. Polesworth had a fish and chip shop and a small convenience store within walking distance as well as The Bull, which Will lunched at a couple of times. Spring flowers were in the early stages of bloom while green buds were breaking out on spindly tree branches. A few narrow paths linked the towpath to a trail alongside the River Tame, running parallel to our waterway. We were able to take Leo and Tiger on a few circular walks, breaking up the predictability of the 'there and back' routes we usually do. Polesworth provided us with a very relaxing and enjoyable stay. We're glad we gave it a second chance.
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  • Tom at Atherstone

    February 21 in England ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Less than 24 hours after Al left, Tom returned. This time he was on his way home after a few days working away, so had a little more time to spare. He made it along the towpath for a pot of tea on Rainboat before we all went for lunch at The King's Head. Tom loves to travel and is planning a big trip to Canada. The time sped past chatting about this, politics, the NHS, life on Rainboat and a bit of banter. We love that Tom detours via Rainboat when commuting long distance and look forward to the next time our paths cross.

    The following day brought with it sunshine and a Saturday market in the little town square. We stocked up at a zero waste/refill stall and treated ourselves to a stilton pork pie, kit kat cookies, artisnal wine and locally made cheeses. On the way back we visited a small hippy shop in whose window Will and Al had previously spotted a green velvet dress they thought Vicky would like. They were right; she tried it on and fell in love. It turned out to be an expensive day but as well as being a pleasure, buying from small independent businesses is the best way to support the places we pass through and we'd really enjoyed our stay in Atherstone.
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  • Meeting Al at Atherstone

    February 16 in England ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We arrived in Atherstone really looking forward to seeing Al.
    Al arrived in Atherstone the following day really looking forward to seeing... Mr Whsikers 😹 He's had a soft spot for him ever since they first met at the farm over 3 years ago but this would be the first time Al would see him in his 'furever' home.

    Our first mooring was a little muddy and had very poor signal, so we cruised a further hundred metres or so and tied up near the old red brick, Britannia Works Mill, whose metal framed, single glazed window panes are mostly cracked or missing. It's a Grade II historic building and was the last of Atherstone's hat makers to close in 1999. Rumour has it that Tommy Cooper's famous red fez was made here!

    Leo and Tiger Lilly could feel our excitement at Al's imminent arrival. Leo was bouncing off the walls so we took them out and met Al just off the towpath, where he was obliged to dole out copious cuddles. After walking the dogs in the nearby park and fussing the cats back at the boat, Al and Will headed out for lunch at Maid of the Mill; a pub adjacent to the old factory. Here locals told them about the ongoing trouble with vandalism at the factory and the building collapsing. It has permission to be turned into assisted living apartments but work is slow and Storm Darragh had blown part of a wall into the street before Christmas. There's a petition for it to be demolished completely and quickly.

    Al had booked a room at The Red Lion pub, so after a wander round town he checked in, before returning to Rainboat for a meat pie from the local butchers and an evening of whisky tasting 😋🥃

    The following day Al got a windlass placed in his hand and set to work on 5 of the 11 Atherstone Locks. He and Will paired up on the bank, while Vicky steered Rainboat with the dogs. It's so much faster working as a team of 3!

    We moored near The Kings Head and the boys rewarded themselves with a late afternoon meal at the pub. Here they met Tom, who had been able to detour via Atherstone for a few hours while driving south for work.

    Al and Will had a few more whiskys onboard that evening. Whiskers enjoyed his company so much that he needed to be locked inside when it came time for Al to leave, after following him along the towpath in the dark 🤭

    We spent a few more hours just relaxing in Rainboat the following morning before Al needed to leave. He'd been really understanding about Vicky's lack of energy and it had been great to spend time with him. Will especially enjoyed having a drinking buddy! 🍻
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  • Nuneaton

    February 12 in England ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Today we said farewell to the Ashby Canal and turned right onto the Coventry at Marston Junction.

    Mooring up at Nuneaton within a few hundred metres of a fishing shop (what coincidence!) was like stepping back into the land of the living from an idyllic rural retreat. The land of the living had more than a dozen piles of dog poo strewn amongst the grass outside Rainboat's length. 🤢 But, it did have a Chinese / Cantonese takeaway with a 5⭐️hygiene rating 3 minutes walk away (we chose this for tea over the 3⭐️ Fish and Chip shop 2 doors down).

    We gratefully restocked our cupboards at the Lidl and small Sainsburys 10 minutes away and the dogs were overjoyed at the dry hardpack towpath for walkies.

    The next day we heard the familiar 'doink' of a heavy object being tosssed repeatedly into the cut. The magnet fisher was really friendly and got chatting to us, asking if we knew what the large safety pin shaped piece of metal he'd just plucked from the water was. It happened to be a tool for tethering boats to piling that lines the canal, he'd found another and insisted we take them. He'd found two bikes as well, one he was going to sell to his mate as scrap for a few pennies but the other was in good condition so he was going to do it up for his son. He returned the following day with some other bits and bobs he thought might be useful to us (his Mum had been getting on his back about moving them out of the garage).

    The following morning as a couple of motorbikes were roaring along the towpath vibrating Rainboat's hull we decided it was time to move on.
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  • Hinkley

    February 11 in England ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We're looking forward to meeting up with Vicky's brother Al and our friend Tom next week on the Coventry Canal so are keeping up a decent pace to get there.

    After filling up with diesel at Ashby Boat Company we made our way to Hinkley moorings and Will made his way to the Lime Kilns pub where the bar tender remembered him!

    We only stayed for one night. The Ashby has been blissfully quiet and scenic but the towpaths have been consistently claggy with mud and the channel silted up so much that it regularly scrapes Rainboat's hull. It's been a wonderful break from the urban environs of the West Midlands but we are looking forward to getting back to civilisation for a while.
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  • Ashby Boat Co. Stoke Golding

    February 5 in England ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We hadn't been able to have a proper supermarket shop for weeks so knowing we'd be passing the canalside car park at Sutton Wharf, we ordered a ridiculous amount of food to be delivered there from Sainsburys, with a little note to the driver that we were on a boat. We made good time and 10 minutes after mooring up, the driver called Vicky to check exactly where we were. What a relief!

    With sub zero nights forecast we wanted to make sure we were moored somewhere good in case we were iced in. We were also running low on diesel so after picking up the shopping we carried on to just before the Ashby Boat Company near Stoke Golding and the wonderful Spinneybank Farm Shop.

    As it happened there was only a thin layer of ice on the water the following morning but we were glad to be there anyway. Will made several trips to the George and Dragon for their delicious Scotch Eggs and Sausage Rolls, not to mention their long list of draught ales! We'd held off on the fruit and veg from Sainsburys so we could shop at Spinneybank for these, their own meat and naughty cherry flapjacks 😋 Not surprisingly we ended up staying a few more days than planned!

    We set off on Tuesday and filled the diesel tank at Ashby Boat Company, where the owner had previously done us a favour by picking us up a stove fan from Lidl.
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  • Market Bosworth

    February 4 in England ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    A quick stopover at Market Bosworth on our journey back towards the Coventry Canal. We made sure to stay on the other side of the main road bridge to avoid the muddiest stretch of towpath.

  • The top of the Ashby & Shakerstone again

    February 2 in England ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We woke at the South Portal of Snarestone Tunnel to a fishing competition who's participants seemed to go on for miles. Mindful that we needed to get back to Shakerstone to find Whiskers' tracker we set off sharpish.

    Thankfully the sky was blue and there was even some warmth in the sunshine. Snarestone Tunnel is only 228m long but there is no towpath through, so Vicky took the dogs inside Rainboat and gave them peanut butter on their Licky Mats. Thankfully Tiger was too engrossed in this treat to get scared and we emerged from the North Portal just as they were finishing up.

    Ashby Canal was originally 31 miles long but the northern section between Snarestone and Ashby-de-la-Zouch was built through the Leicestershire Coal Field. Subsidence gradually destroyed this nine mile stretch, reducing the navigable length to 22 miles. The last possible turning point for boats as long as Rainboat is Snarestone Wharf; the headquarters of the Ashby Canal Association. Here we found a small chandlery and brick a brack stall as well as restored canal artefacts and information on the association's fundraising and restoration work. Boats less than 50ft long can continue northwards from Snarestone and turn just after Bridge 62, before Gilwiskaw Brook Aqueduct. There is an IWA Silver Propeller site here but we would have had to reverse Rainboat a considerable distance, in blustery conditions, with boats moored on either side. In other circumstances we may have waited for a calm day but we needed to get back to find Whiskers' tracker before the battery ran out. Instead we filled with water, emptied our bins, bought an 'Ashby Canal' brass plaque from the chandlery and a coffee mug from the brick a brack stall before winding and retracing our steps to Shakerstone.

    The Pit Pat app showed the tracker in a field through a Blackthron hedge, brambles and Dog Rose and over a 2m wide drainage ditch. We walked up and down to see if there was an easier route but eventually Vicky took the sickle and gang plank, hacked her way through the the thorny undergrowth and over the water. The cat owner we'd met the last time we were here saw it as an opportunity for adventure so followed on behind. When we were within a metre of the icon on the map he spotted Whiskers' collar - yay! It really does work well! A relieved Vicky returned with it in hand and spent most of the rest of the day in bed 😴

    On our last visit the Victorian Tea Rooms at the Battlefield Line Heritage Railway Station been recommended. Despite the trains not running at this time of year it opens on Wednesdays and weekends so Will went along for a cheese cob on Saturday. The two rooms were full of families and couples and there was a real buzz in the air. Vicky had recovered enough by Sunday afternoon to return with him. There was nothing vegan but she enjoyed a pot of mint tea in a china cup and saucer while Will had a delicious slab of Victoria Sponge in front of a roaring log fire. It was near closing time and we were the only customers but it gave us a chance to look around. The walls and windowsills were packed with Victorian memorabilia, from photos of the Queen to tea tins and childrens toys. The owner happily chatted away to us and was obviously a real labour of love (possibly verging on obsession) that brought joy to him and those visiting who visited. We'd definitely recommend a visit.
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  • Snareston Tunnel, Southern Portal

    February 1 in England ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Ashby Canal Association has been advertising today's stretch of canal between Shakerstone and Snareston as one of the most beautiful in the country. Despite the bleakness imposed by winter, the scenery was uplifting. It was a breath of fresh air to see the green fields and bare woodlands slip by and to hear the Spring struck sparrows and tits singing their hearts out in the hedgerows.

    We stopped just shy of the south portal of Snarestone tunnel and Will hopped off to visit The Globe pub nearby for a bite and a pint, picking up some groceries on the way back.

    Meanwhile, Vicky was settling the furries in when she noticed Mr Whiskers wasn't wearing his tracker collar. Opening the Pit Pat app, the little dog icon was 2.5 miles away in the field beside last night's mooring 😥 The towpath was too muddy to take the bike back to find it and too far for either of us to walk. We'd planned to stay here a few nights but instead decided to move on the following day and turn at Snarestone Wharf, the last winding point on the Ashby. We'd then crusie all the way back to Shakerstone and try to find the tracker. Life would certainly be a lot simpler without the furries! (But the love they give back is more than worth it 🥰).
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  • Shakerstone

    January 30 in England ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Cruising the Ashby at this time of year is pretty relaxing. We're enjoying the rural views and although the channel is sometimes narrow with silted up sides, you'll not go wrong if you stick to the middle. From the number of permanent moorings we can see it can get super busy in summer. Passing that volume of other boats and finding moorings on the broken down banks when the official ones are full would be very tricky.

    Shortly after setting off today we came accross John on his boat Rallentando (Slow Down) with his friend Kirk. John had found a nice quiet place to moor but unfortunately his starter battery had died, leaving him stranded in the middle of nowhere. Will pulled up alongside and tried to jump start the engine but for some reason it wasn't working. We offered them a tow to Shakerstone which they greatfully accepted. John stayed at the tiller while Kirk walked alongside, chatting away, disappearing at various points to move his car and at one point hopped onto Rainboat for a lift. He was an interesting guy and shared how he'd lived a fairly typical life up until 2020 when he'd discovered the canals as a way of retreating from society. He still lives in a house but spends as much time as possible on his boat. When he learned Vicky had ME he wanted to help and shared his theory about RF waves, the number of which have increased massively with 4G. He explained how he began getting seizures when he switched from a CRT TV to a flatscreen and noticed that they didn't happen on his boat where he didn't have a TV. He advised Vicky to avoid 4G and leave her phone in the kitchen overnight. He even gave her a hand crocheted hat with metalic fabric liner. He was a lovely genuine guy who just wanted to help. Vicky will avoid 4G for a week as advised but we don't hold out hope that it will improve her health.

    At Shakerstone moorings we untied the line to Rallentando and moored up ourselves. Will saw a sign for The Rising Sun pub which advertised food so he trotted off in hope of some lunch. He had to make do with just a pint as they no longer did meals. A food van was visiting that evening but unluckily it was a fish and chip van and we didn't fancy this particular dish two nights on the trot.

    The Battlefield Line Railway begins at Shakerstone Station on the opposite bank to where we moored. It runs to Market Bosworth and on to Shenton. The next train wasn't due until mid February but the Victorian Tea Room at the station did open at weekends and came highly recommended.

    That evening there was a knock on the window. The boater behind us wanted to know whether we had dogs and asked us to keep them on leads so they wouldn't scare his cat. He hadn't bargained on Mr Whiskers... The two felines found each other that night with resulting drawn out wails and yowls. According to our neighbour Mr Whiskers was the boss and he had to shoo him away so his cat could get back on board 😳 They met again the following evening and this time Vicky managed to call Whiskers away with the promise of Dreamies and sardines. He came trotting back as if butter wouldn't melt 🫣
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  • Market Bosworth

    January 29 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We've adopted the strategy of hunkering down on poor weather days and cruising when the sunshine can join us. We travelled for about 2.5hours today, but had a break in the middle to visit Sutton Wharf café. There was a car park, taps and toilet emptying facilities but what we really needed were bins. Unfortunately there was a sign on the bin compound warning that it was for the café only and leaving rubbish would be viewed as fly tipping 😒 Many CRT refuse facilities are closing due to cutbacks, making it more and more difficult for boaters. A friendly CRT volunteer engaged the dogs and got chatting to us. He eventually asked if we could donate to help make up the shortfall in government funds. The CRT have recently introduced a higher license fee for continuous cruisers like us and the withdrawal of essential facilities didn't encourage our generosity. It was a bit like the chicken and the egg scenario.

    The café had some yummy looking cakes but none were vegan so Vicky had a mango smoothie and looked on enviously as Will enjoyed a substantial slice of Victoria Sponge.

    After a relaxing journey we moored at Market Bosworth and Will went to explore the town and visit the shops. It was a picturesque and elegant town with a grammer school. At home time he marvelled as the kids filtered out in an orderly fashion to wait for the bus. Not a tie out of place nor a skirt more than an inch above the knee.

    Our mooring was close to the huge Bosworth Marina and when walking the dogs Leo accosted a guy coming out of the marina gates. We walked and chatted with him for a few minutes while he asked about our connection to the canal and shared his enthusiasm for the town and the Ashby. Meeting such a friendly person lifted our spirits.

    Several people Will had met at the George and Dragon back in Stoke Golding had recommended a really good fish and chip shop and their vegan mushy pea fritters. Come evening, he took the bike and fetched our tea, which exceeded expectations 😋
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  • Spinneybank Farm Shop, Stoke Golding

    January 25 in England ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    After all the wind, rain and gloomy weather came a glorious sunny day to travel. The Ashby wended its way past Trinity Marina and the Triumph motorbike factory which Will hopes to visit on the way back. Mostly though, the scenery comprised of agricultural fields, paddocks and bare young woodlands.

    Will pulled in just before Bridge 23 but Vicky smiled sweetly and he obliged by pulling Rainboat back so that she was in the sun and Vicky could look out the window and watch the black and white cob grazing the field opposite. Most cars beeped as they approached the humpback bridge so we were glad to be further away from the noise too.

    Spinneybank Farm Shop had a canalside entrance between us and the bridge and Will popped in soon after we arrived, returning with a haunch of beef, burgers, carrots for the dogs, a homemade mince and potato pasty for himself and a cherry flapjack for Vicky. He became familiar to the woman running the shop over the coming days as it was just the sort of place we like to support, with everything so local. The cows were kept organically although if a c-section was required they were given antibiotics to avoid infection so they weren't certified organic.

    15 minutes along the towpath was Ashby Boat Company which hired boats, sold diesel and ran a chandlery. We visited in search of a stove top fan, which they didn't have in stock but the owner said he was popping to Lidl that evening and would pick us one up if they had any left. He made 5p profit but we'll be sure to fill our tank with their diesel on our return journey.

    Just up the hill from the boat company lay the little village of Stoke Golding; an affluent place with a Co-op, another farm shop with a wider range of products and two pubs. The Three Horse Shoes didn't open until 4pm but Will frequented the George and Dragon a few times as it was a really good pub. Dog friendly with a small simple menu and a great choice of draught ales. Vicky really hopes to have more energy on the way back so she can visit too.
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  • Hinckley

    January 15 in England

    With the ice almost completely gone and another boat coming past Will decided to set off before the furries had stirred. Rainboat had been stationary for 10 days so it was a relief to be on the move again. The crumbling bank encouraged him to stay in tickover (about 2mph). After about an hour Tiger Lilly decided that she wanted to come onto the stern and be cuddled. Unfortunately this coincided with the return of a thin layer of ice on the water. Will decided to pull in and moor soon. When he saw the boat that had gone past earlier in the day he knew that it was time to stop. After one abortive attempt he realised that there was piling on the far side of the boat, which provided secure mooring while they waited for the rest of the ice to thaw.

    Will wanted to continue into Hinkley but Whiskers had other ideas; searching through the rough hedge and finding a feast of small mammals. He (Will) decided to walk the 15 minute journey to the planned moorings and found that there was one lovely vacant slot. When he returned to Rainboat he found that Whiskers had had his fill of rodents and all the furries were curled up inside. The short hop would only take a few minutes but this time both of the dogs insisted on sharing the stern area with Will as he navigated a couple of bridges and moored up within sight of The Lime Kilns pub.

    There were hawthorn hedges, fields all around and permanently moored boats opposite. It was 1.5 miles into town but the route was via a good quality footpath alongside a brook so was pleasant. Will cycled in on Thursday and bought much needed groceries (vegan chocolate 😉😂) before meeting Vicky at the train station. She'd overdone things on her trip up north and her ME caused her to really struggle to get back to Rainboat. We really should have taken a taxi.

    The next day we took the dogs walking along the somewhat claggy towpath. The air smelled of slurry, then turned acrid and we saw 4 huge green metal barns on the opposite side. Elms Farm is an Intensive Poultry operation with a permit for 220,000 broiler animals. Chicks are brought in, grown and fattened over 40 days then sent to slaughter 😢 Whenever the wind blew in a certain direction it carried the smell all the way to Rainboat. It upset us to think of the conditions those birds were living in just a short distance away. Another upsetting thing was listening to a dog wailing day and night from within a small Travellers' compound adjacent to the canal. Apparently the owners had told other boaters it was new and just getting used to living outdoors. Whatever was going on it wasn't happy.

    On a brighter note The Lime Kilns pub was great! Good beer, really friendly bar tenders and good food. We enjoyed lunch together and Will popped off for a pint a few times during our stay. We celebrated his 71st birthday on 20th January. Friends and family had thoughtfully passed a few cards and gifts to Vicky when we'd met up, which he opened throughout the day. Unfortunately Vicky's health wasn't up to going out but Pete and Maggie came to the rescue, whisking Will off to a nearby Indian Restaurant that evening! A few days later our friends Jeremy and Lynn returned from their holiday in Barbados and enjoyed an evening meal and drink with Will at The Lime Kilns.

    Storm Éowyn came and went without too much bother and we made the most of a calm sunny day to move on up the Ashby.
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  • Iced in at Whitestone

    Jan 5–15 in England ⋅ 🌧 2 °C

    The ice in the canal had melted but temperatures were set to drop again so we thought we'd better move on sharpish. At Marston Junction we turned right on to the Ashby-de-la-Zouch Canal; new waters! We've been enjoying the absence of locks lately and the Ashby has none - yay! It was cold and wet so we didn't travel the whole 3 hours to Hinckley where Vicky would be getting the train from next week; instead stopping at Whitestone moorings after 90 minutes. Will was at the tiller the whole time while Vicky sat inside with Tiger on her lap to keep warm. Usually Leo would be there too but he was snuggled in his bed under the table instead.

    That evening he refused his food and began crying out in pain when he moved. It was very worrying but it was a Sunday evening and he seemed able to rest so we decided we'd keep an eye on him and if he wasn't any better in the morning we would take him to a vet. As soon as he woke the next day it was clear he was very ill. Thankfully the nearest vet was just 20 minutes walk away so we called, registered and made an emergency appointment. Vicky busied herself finding the contact details of his most recent vet and arranging for his records to be forwarded to this new vet. We then bundled him into his carrier with a hot water bottle and set off gingerly. Thankfully the movement didn't seem to cause him additional discomfort and before long we were explaining the problems to a young vet. Vicky feared he might have a gastrointestinal obstruction but after looking at his gums, checking his skin hydration, listening to his heart and then taking his temperature the vet thought it unlikely and prescribed him some painkillers and probiotic syrup. She offered blood tests and a scan but we chose to see how he fared in the coming days. He rested a lot and slowly made small improvements. By the time he seemed to be out of the woods, Tiger was suffering the same symptoms and Whiskers was sick too 😪

    At this point we could have moved on but Vicky didn't want to add to Tiger's distress by travelling, so we stayed put as the canal froze around us. We hoped to be able to get to Hinckley for the train the following Monday but it was not to be. With the need to conserve water and the poorly animals, the laundry pile began to grow and overspill the basket. The stove was on high to fend off the freeze but that meant we needed to take the jerry can to fill at the fuel station every 2 days, along with the smaller petrol can for the generator. The only supermarkets were a Costcutter and a Spar, which kept us supplied with the basics, but we ran out of vegan yoghurt, seeds and breadflour to name a few things. We could have got a bus to Hinckley but didn't want to leave the poorly furries for too long.

    Thankfully the mooring was quiet, with plenty of shrubbery for Whiskers to wander in. There was a litter bin for our rubbish and we had a choice of two pubs. Will visited the Chetwynd Arms for a drink and we both had lunch at the Corner House Marstons pub. It was from the car park of the latter that Vicky hopped in a taxi to Hinckley train station on Tuesday morning while Will stayed for one of their breakfasts. The ice continued to melt and when a boat cruised past the following day, Will set off in its wake. Being iced in had felt a bit like a 'snow day' to start with, but after 10 days the novelty had worn off. We definitely aren't ready for a permanent mooring!
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  • The Greyhound, Sutton Stop

    January 2 in England ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    Sutton Stop sees the Oxford Canal come alongside and join the Coventry at Hawkesbury Junction. It is a popular spot for boaters and has a marina and long term towpath moorings as well as the temporary ones we tied up to. An open area of grass beside us meant we got the best of the sun when it managed to shine. Not just good for the solar panels but also our moods.

    A couple of hours after we arrived we went to meet Pete and Maggie for lunch at The Greyhound pub beside where the two canals joined. Pete had remembered it fondly from years gone by so we thought it would be a good excuse to spend some more quality time with family. The regulars were friendly, inviting us to sit at the table beside them. The menu was a bit limited for vegetarians like Pete and Maggie and even more so for Vicky but we settled on pies and a burger which were decent quality. It was a little chilly and unfortunately Pete was sat next to someone spouting racist, sexist drivel, spoiling the mood somewhat.

    Outside the air was bone chillingly cold but we braved a short walk up the Oxford. Our side was quite rural, but the other was taken up by the huge National Grid Electricity Substation. A sign explained work the National Grid and Warwickshire Wildlife Trust was doing to encourage Water Voles and we also spotted some freshwater clam shells on the bank. After researching, Vicky identified them as Asian Clams; an invasive species. She posted a photo to a Canal Nature FB group and the concensus was that otters will most likely have been eating them! On the way back we heard a bird calling from the top of a tall poplar. Pete used Merlin to identify it as a Great Spotted Woodpecker just before it took off and flew in a wide loop, the orange hues of the setting sun making its red belly glow- beautiful!

    The cold continued over the coming days, forming ice sheets over sections of the canal. A little snow fell but melted quickly during daylight hours. There were water taps a few hundred metres away but with the possibility of being iced in and unable to get to them, we began to conserve what was in our tank. We hadn't passed a marina nor seen a fuel boat in a while and having the diesel fire on meant our supply was running low. Vicky fetched some from a fuel station about a mile away using the 18.5l jerry can and trolley.

    On Saturday we had lunch with Cath & Paul in The Greyhound. We'd booked it weeks ago so had been looking forward to seeing our friends for some time. The dining area was warmer than the bar and the food was good. The chef even did the a pie without egg wash so it would be vegan for Vicky!

    Time slipped by quickly and snow was forecast so at the end of the meal Cath and Paul just had a quick visit to Rainboat to meet Mr Whiskers before heading back to home. We'd talked about our travel plans so hopefully we'll see them again before long 😊
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