From 65,000 Years To The Lightning Man

DRIVE: Jabiru to Cooinda (40km)

40km south of Jabiru on the Kakadu Highway, we visit Nourlangie Rock on route to Cooinda Lodge and our next camping spot in Kakadu. Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) is famous for its rock art and evidence of Aboriginal settlement in and around the rock overhangs. Like many Aboriginal places, the names have been labelled incorrectly, misspelt or interpreted wrongly by white people. Nourlangie is close by but the rock formation here is actually named Burrunggui for the upper section of the rock and Angbangbang for the lower section of the rock.

It’s almost 10.30am so we have timed our visit to join in on the end of an Aboriginal Interpretation tour. A young white female who works for Kakadu National Park was taking the tour and she was super informative and knowledgeable about the Aboriginal culture and history at this place.

We are standing in the past, facing a large cave like rock overhang with another sheltering rock formation behind us and vista views on either side of the woodlands and escarpment. The breeze is gently filtering through and combined with shade, it makes the shelter cool from the heat of the sun and a perfect place to set up residence. Its a special place.

Aboriginal paintings adorn the walls and evidence of smoke can be seen on the ceiling of the overhang giving clues to its long history as an Aboriginal dwelling.

So how long ago? Well the guide explains that after a number of archeological digs, tools were found at the site and the most primitive tool, a sharp rock implement was dated to 65,000 years ago when the area was dryer and more arid. That’s mind blowing.

As the land and climate changed dramatically over time, we can move to 20,000 years ago and see that the tools and implements are more sophisticated with spears and rope and fire sticks. These tools were found at the same site and indicate that the land was more fertile for food and hunting and these residents were less transient and more like settlers.

So that’s still 20,000 years ago, and still a lot more recent than 65,000 years when the earliest ancestors roamed this land. To get the timeline into perspective, Jesus was 2,000 years ago, The Pyramids 4,000 years ago and Stone Henge 5,000 years ago. What’s even more impressive is that the Aboriginal culture still has the same belief systems and values today and they largely prepare and eat their food the same way.

Amazing...

As we move on and follow a pathway winding through the rock, there are many more sites of cultural significance, some of which are off limits. The tour guide explained that this site is a small example of indigenous culture and there are a great many more hidden and sacred places right through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.

Like the ancient ancestors who created paintings and artwork on rock, the tradition continues with new stories and art depicting modern times being added and even white men with guns! It’s a never ending timeline of stories dating back as far as 65,000 years ago. Wait a minute, isn’t that like Facebook, let me see, it’s surely been around for 15 years.

So we finally meet The Lightning Man. The Lightning Man rock art is a relatively recent painting although its spirit and story go back thousands of years.

The rock art depicts Namarrgon (Lightning Man) who is an important creation ancestor responsible for the violent lightning storms that occur every tropical summer.

The band running from Namarrgon’s left ankle to his hands and head and down to his right ankle represents the lightning he creates. He uses the axes on his head, elbows and feet to split the dark clouds and make lightning and thunder.

During his travels, Namarrgon left his power behind at many places and on his last last journey, he approached the Arnhem Land escarpment from the east and looked over the sheer wall. He took out an eye and placed it high on the cliff at Namarrgondjahdjam (Lightning Dreaming), where it sits waiting for the storm season.

CAMP: Cooinda Lodge / 2 Nights
After exploring Nourlangie, we drive the short distance to Cooinda and set up for 2 nights.

The remainder of the day is filled by lazing by the resort pool and catching happy hour at the restaurant for a beer and cider. there are aboriginal folk enjoying a beer in the gardens and as i pass an elder woman, she says “how ya goin” and i reply, “me good” doh!!!

I think “me dumb dumb”.Read more