AustraliaNorthern TerritoryCoomalie13°0’26” S 131°0’16” E
June 23, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
After breakfast, we walk the 3km from the hotel through Darwin’s impressive Botanic Gardens to pick up our car at JJs Car Hire. We had stored it here for the duration of our 4WD hire. It’s a bit dirty but other than that, the kayaks are still on the roof top and the Kluger starts first time.
We head back to the hotel to pick up our luggage stopping off for groceries on the way. After giving the car a car wash, we pick up our campervan form Darwin storage, hook up and set off for the start of another adventure.
This is the final instalment of our Walshies Down Under trip and we are travelling from the top end and down through central Australia visiting amongst other places, Ayres Rock on the way.
DRIVE: Darwin to Litchfield National Park (111km).
Today we drive a short distance to Litchfield National Park.
On the way in we passed through Coomalie Creek & Batchelor where Jenny’s Grandfather, Reg Duncan served in WWII from mid 1943 to October 1945. He was a Leading Airman with the 87 (PR) Squadron (formerly No. 1 PRU) at Coomalie airfield; the photographic unit in the RAAF who went up to do all the aerial reconnaissance photography.
Coomalie airfield was constructed between July & November 1942 and was bombed by the Japanese on three occasions - 27 November 1942 and 13 & 21 August 1943. By June 1945, 87 (PR) Squadron had produced almost 10,500 photographic prints in support of RAAF/USAAF bombing raids to Japanese-held Timor/Indonesia. The last wartime sortie from Coomalie was flown on 15 August 1945 when Mosquito A52-609 set off to photograph targets on Timor. With the Japanese surrender officially announced, the aircraft was recalled to Coomalie where it made a fast low-level pass in celebration of victory. 87 (PR) Squadron remained at Coomalie airfield until 30 October 1945 when it was abandoned.
Pre-WWII, the area known as Rum Jungle was home to one of two demonstration farms established by the Commonwealth in 1912. In 1911, the Commonwealth took over the Territory from South Australia and in a bid to attract people set up farms to model the opportunities available through farming. Didn’t really take off, did it?!
Post-war was when the boom happened. With the US discovery (& use) of atomic weapons, they, and the UK were after uranium “in defence of the free world”. In the early 50s farmers in the area discovered uranium and a new era was born with the establishment of the Rum Jungle Uranium Project in 1954. Batchelor became the third largest town in the NT, after Darwin and Alice Springs. Over 300 men and about 15 single women worked on the project; the women being housed in accommodation known as the Virgins’ Villas and the Nunnery!
CAMP: Litchfield Tourist Park / 2 Nights
It’s so nice to have our campervan set up again and it’s quite luxurious compared to the roof top tent even though we enjoyed that too.
Litchfield Tourist Park is very pleasant as they have real grassy sites and abundant shade trees being constantly watered from a windmill pumping bore water from deep in the ground. In contrast to Broome, the evenings here get much cooler so extra blankets tonight. We are within a few kilometres of Litchfield National Park and look forward to exploring it tomorrow.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryCoomalieFinniss Valley13°1’26” S 130°57’10” E
June 24, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Litchfield National Park, covers approximately 1500 km2 and is near the township of Batchelor, just over 100km south-west of Darwin. Proclaimed a national park in 1986, it is named after Frederick Henry Litchfield, a Territory pioneer, who explored areas of the Northern Territory in 1864.
Aboriginal people have lived throughout the area for thousands of years. It’s important to the Kungarakan and Marranunggu peoples for whom their ancestral spirits are still considered actively present in the landscape.
Our first stop in Litchfield National Park is Wangi Falls. As we drive in on the sealed road, there’s smoke everywhere coming from the thick surrounding bush, assuming from dry season burn offs. Some of the smoke and fire though have creating large plumes further in the distance and a couple of walking tracks have been closed due to natural fires.
Wangi Falls spills over the tall sandstone cliffs of the tableland plateau into a large plunge pool with a beautiful backdrop. Smoke haze fills the cliff tops and black Kite birds are circling looking for prey. It’s early for a dip but within minutes, lots of travellers are turning up and plunging in so we join them. The water is not too cold and a comfortable temperature for a morning bathe.
Wangi Falls and all the other waterfalls in Litchfield flow all year round. The sandstone of the tableland plateau acts like a giant sponge, absorbing the wet season rain and then slowly releasing the water creating natural springs over the dry season. These natural springs feed the waterfalls constantly which shows just how much rain the wet season brings. It’s quite a contrast to the Kimberley waterfalls which eventually stop flowing further into the dry season.
I spot an interesting sign about crocodiles that may be resident in the plunge pool beneath Wangi Falls from time to time.
“When the creek floods, salt water crocodiles move in” That’s not very reassuring.
The Wangi Falls loop walk is closed due to fires above the tableland plateau with some smoke and fire reaching around the vertical slopes of Wangi Falls. Word has it that two Aboriginal Mobs have been clashing in the area and each mob has sabotaged the other’s land by setting fire to it...! So that’s why there’s random fires everywhere.
It’s not uncommon for different tribes or mobs to clash and it’s been going on for thousands of years.
Although us white folk often depict the indigenous culture as being the same Aboriginal group, they actually belong to many a different tribe with differing cultural identities, rituals and sense of belonging. Territory or sacred land is always an issue and the mobs often fight between each other. Lesson taken. If you fall out with thy neighbour, just set fire to his garden and lawn... oh and run!
Tolmer Falls is next, a few kilometres up the road. Tolmer Falls cascades from the tabletop range, eroding the landscape and creating a rich and vibrant sanctuary for wildlife below. It’s height is impressive from the viewing platform and there’s a 1.5km loop walking track with passes the top of the falls.
There’s what seems a small insignificant but pretty creek at the top of the falls, gently following its course, then plunging into a chasm above the main falls creating a small reservoir of water. From here the water gathers pace and drops over Tolmer Falls in volumes. No swimming here as there’s no safe way down to the pool below the falls.
Having seen so many waterfalls on this trip, one could be forgiven for becoming a little underwhelmed when seeing another. Not today, Florence Falls is the most picture perfect and beautiful falls I have encountered so far. Jen still thinks the rugged Bell Gorge was her favourite and Mitchell Falls was epic. For me, Florence Falls is by far the most vibrant and picturesque due to its its stunning setting, it’s twin falls working in harmony and it’s clear inviting plunge pool.
I swim out to the larger fall and hold onto the rock underneath for a while, then push out floating on my back to view the cascading water above contrasting with the vivid blue sky. My ears are submerged and all I can hear is... silence.
Again, Florence Falls is fed by natural springs above the tableland plateau just upstream of Buley Rockhole and it flows into The Finnish River. It’s a busy little place and no one minds the 330 steps to get down to this well hidden oasis.
On our way back, we visit the magnetic termite mounds. These incredible elongated mounds all align on a north - south axis and the magnetic termites that make them are found nowhere else on earth. Although the majority of termite species build their homes underground, termite mounds are created in places where there is significant rainfall and a wet season, therefore providing a dry safe haven for the termites inside their elevated homes.
The north-south aspects of these structures ensures that the termites create a climate controlled environment inside the mounds. In the heat of the day, they regulate the temperature to keep things cool and at night the mounds keep them protected from the cold. What’s more, the mounds are tall like a skyscraper so they take up minimal footprint. What an ingenious solution to urban living. Maybe we should all live in termite mounds. With the growth in high rise inner city apartments, come to think of it, we probably already do...
The giant of all termite mounds is made by the Cathedral Termite often making their mega structures 5 metres in height. They are epic considering an average termite is about 5mm long and an army of them build these Cathedral Mounds with some of the mounds 40+ years old.
Wait a minute, like nature, humans can take credit too. Didn’t the Egyptians use an army of tens of thousand of termites, whoops I mean men to build the Pyramids, man’s ultimate Cathedral to the gods. Oh the similarities.
Litchfield NP has such a varied and interesting natural landscape. There are places off road we could visit like “The Lost City” but we are content in staying dirt free for today and exploring the waterfalls.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest ArnhemJabiru12°39’46” S 132°50’9” E
June 25, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
DRIVE: Litchfield NP to Kakadu NP, Jabiru (293km).
Kakadu National Park is truly a timeless place. Bininj/Mungguy people have lived on and cared for this country for 65,000, one of the longest historical records of any group of people on earth.
The name Kakadu was suggested to recognise Gagudju, a sacred Aboriginal language which used to be spoken in the park.
Covering nearly 20,000 square kilometres of exceptional natural beauty and unique biodiversity, Kakadu National Park is teeming with wildlife, home to important Aboriginal rock art sites, and diverse and exotic landscapes. This has earned it a World Heritage listing for both its cultural and natural values.
The park is located within the Alligator Rivers Region of the Northern Territory. It’s strange that the rivers are named after alligators as I can’t recall a movie called “Alligator Dundee”. Well it turns out that the English explorer Phillip Parker King named the rivers after the crocodiles which he mistook for alligators and the mud stuck, hence East Alligator River, West Alligator River and South Alligator River.
.DREAMTIME
The world always existed. To Aboriginal people, however, it had no shape, no life until the dormant creator spirits awoke - until the Dreamtime.
Dreamtime is an intricate Aboriginal belief that explains the mystery of creation. Tales of the dreaming tell of this creation offering explanations for the existence of different kinds of animals, the first human beings, the unique landscape, the wonder of the seasons, the endless sky. These creations have been passed on through the generations and represented in song lines and symbolic rock art first created by the Mimi spirits.
Once their creative efforts were over, spirit ancestors remained, turning themselves into rocks, pools, paintings, and other special places. In these sacred districts, the Gagudju and the land continue to draw strength. These are the Dreaming sites.
CAMP: Kakadu Lodge and Caravan Park / 2 Nights
We are staying 4 nights in Kakadu to appreciate its timeless beauty and explore different sections of the park. Kakadu Lodge in Jabiru is a great central location to explore the East Alligator River.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest Arnhem12°39’2” S 132°43’56” E
June 26, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
Today we are exploring the East Alligator River and heading to Ubirr for sunset. It’s a long day until sunset so Jen makes fried Haloumi Cheese with smashed avocado, bacon and cherry tomatoes on sourdough toast for breakfast. That will keep us going.
We start the day at Bowali Visitor Centre to explore Aboriginal culture and the diversity of Kakadu National Park. What did we learn?
Well the indigenous folk call themselves Gukberlerri (Aboriginal People) and they call us white folk Guhelbe (Non Aboriginal People).
There are six local Gundjeihmi seasons;
1. Gudjewg (Monsoon) Dec to Mar
2. Banggerreng (Harvest time) Apr
3. Yegge (Cooler but still humid) May to Jun
4. Wurrgeng (Cool dry season) Jun to Aug
5. Gurrung (Hot dry time) Aug to Oct
6. Gunumeling (Pre monsoon) Oct to Dec
So that puts us in Wurrgeng, the cool dry season when most creeks stop flowing, the Floodplains dry out and birds of prey like the Black Kite patrol fire lines, swooping for wildlife.
Also we found out that Kakadu surrounds a rich uranium site and by coincidence... the Aboriginals call this area Buladjang or “sickness country”.
Next we visit Mamukala Wetlands for a spot of bird watching. It’s an all weather sport up here and today it’s hot and dry. Camera at the ready, we follow a 3km walk close to the wetlands. I hear plenty but only spot 2 birds. The photo of the little blue and yellow bird is my shot of the day. Can anyone name the bird?
It’s a bit like when we lived in Lennox Gardens in London and our park always had birds tweeting but we never saw them. Those surround sound speakers are so realistic these days and they must deploy them in numbers on this bird watching tour. Truth be known, we are a bit late, it’s 9.30am already and the early bird catches the worm.
The drive into Ubirr is about 40km. I did it back in 1990 as a backpacker and with little money to spare, I stood on the corner of the then dirt track and a group of Aboriginal men stopped in a Ute vehicle and offered me a lift to Ubirr, dropping me off at the YHA. I could have ended up in Arnhem Land as a lost soul taken by the spirits as we are right on the border. Well the road is sealed now and no sign of the YHA anymore.
Ubirr has great examples of Aboriginal rock art depicting Dreamtime and stories from time past. My favourite is the painting of Mabuyu which tells a story that warns against stealing. The short story goes that someone stole his fish so the fearsome Mabuyu locked everyone in a cave and they got punished, kids, women, men... all dead.
We walk through the escarpment of Ubirr towards sandstone formations and climb up to a vantage point overlooking the flood plains and Arnhem Land in the distance. It’s an amazing view and time has stood still here, it’s as it was thousands of years ago, an ancient land living and breathing with the six seasons. Even with the dry, there’s a pretty billabong sustaining life in the middle of the plain and everywhere is green.
As we are here for sunset and it’s not until after 6.00pm, we drive a short distance to Cahill’s Crossing which is a short vehicle crossing over the East Alligator River to Arnhem Land and a known crocodile spotting area. Regardless of the “Danger, Crocodile” signs, men were walking the crossing and in the shallows of the river fishing for Barramundi. There’s even the remains of our 4WD, sorry a 4WD in the river that had come to a sad and sorry end on the crossing.
I just realised that after all my footprints and highlights about crocs, I haven’t seen a salty on this trip yet. Plenty of freshies but none of the big bad ones. Jen has seen a 4.5m salty in the Ord river at Kununurra but let’s face it, where’s the photographic evidence... so I am still on the hunt.
As we return to the Ubirr lookout, the surrounding landscape is crackling fiercely with the sound of fire with flames climbing up the Pandanus Palms and smoke haze everywhere. We’re on fire and it’s literally metres away. A burn off is in progress and the wild grasses are erupting in flames whilst the Kites circle above. Like everyone else, we assume it’s safe and continue the climb up to the sandstone lookout.
We are 2 hours early for sunset so I stand one footed on a rock and contemplate life whilst Jen sits on a rock, pulls out a book and sticks her head in it. I replicate the shot with a couple of props from Jen. A book is on the top of Jen’s survival list. Mine would be a double shot latte and a scotch finger biscuit...
It’s difficult to capture in a photo the amazing view across the Kakadu plains and out towards Arnhem Land as the sun sets and the birds excitedly fly across the billabong. It’s again one of those moments to just enjoy.
I did get a few good creative shots of the billabong though as the sun creates a mirror reflection on the water. All too soon, the sun is disappearing for another day and like other folk around us, we rush back down from the lookout as the light fades to dark and the Dreamtime spirits start to appear.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest ArnhemYellow Water12°54’21” S 132°31’16” E
June 27, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
DRIVE: Jabiru to Cooinda (40km)
40km south of Jabiru on the Kakadu Highway, we visit Nourlangie Rock on route to Cooinda Lodge and our next camping spot in Kakadu. Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) is famous for its rock art and evidence of Aboriginal settlement in and around the rock overhangs. Like many Aboriginal places, the names have been labelled incorrectly, misspelt or interpreted wrongly by white people. Nourlangie is close by but the rock formation here is actually named Burrunggui for the upper section of the rock and Angbangbang for the lower section of the rock.
It’s almost 10.30am so we have timed our visit to join in on the end of an Aboriginal Interpretation tour. A young white female who works for Kakadu National Park was taking the tour and she was super informative and knowledgeable about the Aboriginal culture and history at this place.
We are standing in the past, facing a large cave like rock overhang with another sheltering rock formation behind us and vista views on either side of the woodlands and escarpment. The breeze is gently filtering through and combined with shade, it makes the shelter cool from the heat of the sun and a perfect place to set up residence. Its a special place.
Aboriginal paintings adorn the walls and evidence of smoke can be seen on the ceiling of the overhang giving clues to its long history as an Aboriginal dwelling.
So how long ago? Well the guide explains that after a number of archeological digs, tools were found at the site and the most primitive tool, a sharp rock implement was dated to 65,000 years ago when the area was dryer and more arid. That’s mind blowing.
As the land and climate changed dramatically over time, we can move to 20,000 years ago and see that the tools and implements are more sophisticated with spears and rope and fire sticks. These tools were found at the same site and indicate that the land was more fertile for food and hunting and these residents were less transient and more like settlers.
So that’s still 20,000 years ago, and still a lot more recent than 65,000 years when the earliest ancestors roamed this land. To get the timeline into perspective, Jesus was 2,000 years ago, The Pyramids 4,000 years ago and Stone Henge 5,000 years ago. What’s even more impressive is that the Aboriginal culture still has the same belief systems and values today and they largely prepare and eat their food the same way.
Amazing...
As we move on and follow a pathway winding through the rock, there are many more sites of cultural significance, some of which are off limits. The tour guide explained that this site is a small example of indigenous culture and there are a great many more hidden and sacred places right through Kakadu and Arnhem Land.
Like the ancient ancestors who created paintings and artwork on rock, the tradition continues with new stories and art depicting modern times being added and even white men with guns! It’s a never ending timeline of stories dating back as far as 65,000 years ago. Wait a minute, isn’t that like Facebook, let me see, it’s surely been around for 15 years.
So we finally meet The Lightning Man. The Lightning Man rock art is a relatively recent painting although its spirit and story go back thousands of years.
The rock art depicts Namarrgon (Lightning Man) who is an important creation ancestor responsible for the violent lightning storms that occur every tropical summer.
The band running from Namarrgon’s left ankle to his hands and head and down to his right ankle represents the lightning he creates. He uses the axes on his head, elbows and feet to split the dark clouds and make lightning and thunder.
During his travels, Namarrgon left his power behind at many places and on his last last journey, he approached the Arnhem Land escarpment from the east and looked over the sheer wall. He took out an eye and placed it high on the cliff at Namarrgondjahdjam (Lightning Dreaming), where it sits waiting for the storm season.
CAMP: Cooinda Lodge / 2 Nights
After exploring Nourlangie, we drive the short distance to Cooinda and set up for 2 nights.
The remainder of the day is filled by lazing by the resort pool and catching happy hour at the restaurant for a beer and cider. there are aboriginal folk enjoying a beer in the gardens and as i pass an elder woman, she says “how ya goin” and i reply, “me good” doh!!!
I think “me dumb dumb”.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest ArnhemYellow Water12°54’19” S 132°31’14” E
June 28, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
It’s an early start to the day, up before dawn and onto a shuttle bus to take us down to Yellow Water (Ngurrungurridjba) for a two hour sunrise cruise. It’s a cool, still and foggy morning which adds to the excitement and atmosphere as we depart the billabong jetty into Yellow Water and onto South Alligator River, never to be seen again!
Our Aboriginal guide is the charismatic and fun loving Reuben who’s native family, the Murrumburr people are the traditional owners of Yellow Water and surrounding areas. Reuben says it as it is and tells us that New South Wales Rugby folk are the first to be sent overboard for the crocodiles. Jen stays silent as she doesn’t want to let on she is a mighty magpies fan just in case they’re on the list too and today, an endangered species.
Reuben talks quickly and is excited when he sees stuff; birds, crocs, fish, buffalo and there’s plenty happening that we are on the edge of our seats. I am on the hunt for a big salt water crocodile or “salty” and Jen is searching for her favourite bird, the Jabiru.
With snorkel and mask in hand, we quietly slip into the dark foggy reaches of the Yellow Water... just kidding. No way!
Reuben positions the boat to capture the rising sun and the blanket of fog starts to disappear In the billabong as the birds come to life in abundance. He can recognise all sounds and bird calls and instantaneously identify them and points them out.
Amongst the birds we see egrets, Kites nesting, kingfishers, snake necked darters, sea eagles and wood ducks and that’s naming a few of many.
Jen spots a vibrant Lotus flower in the lillies which has many uses in cooking... if you can get your hands on it.
We spot a few smaller crocodiles mainly submerged within the lillies and close to the river bank but Reuben is after the big one which he spotted a couple of days ago with a 3 metre crocodile in its mouth!. They are fearsome territorial creatures and on the this occasion, the big one ate the little one and left it draping in its mouth on display for a whole day. Don’t mess with me, I’m the boss.
Crocodiles are the world’s largest living reptile. They are also the most ancient having existed unchanged for 200 million years. Crocodylus porosus or the estuarine crocodile are aggressive and will instinctually attack unsuspecting prey, human or wildlife.
The Aboriginal name for the salt water crocodile is Ginga so this morning, we are hunting for the 5 metre Ginga. Right on cue, as we turn a corner in the South Alligator River, Big Ginga appears like he was waiting for the boat load of fresh people to arrive and he slowly cruises at boat speed by the side of us.
Known affectionately as Van Gogh because he had one ear torn off in a fight, he seems calm but on occasion, he cuts the boat off ahead when Reuben tries to turn. He is one smart cookie. I get eye to eye with the croc as I zoom in to capture him close up. This inside of his yellow eye has a narrow slit where he is focused on me and anything else that looks like dinner. This dude survived the dinosaurs so he has my total respect.
Reuben explains that most white folk who taste crocodile meat say it tastes like chicken but farm raised crocs are fed chicken heads to fill them up. Out here, crocodile tastes like emu, barramundi, bufallo, wallaby, duck and people because that’s what Ginga eats. The Aboriginals also eat the skin of the crocodile, it’s tasty, but we don’t get to taste that as the skin of a farmed croc is a precious commodity for your Goochie bags and the like.
Captivated by the movement of the croc in the water, I turn as Reuben calls out “Jabiru, right, one o’clock. And there he is, one tall majestic Jabiru with thin bright red stick legs. Jen loves the Jabiru because she was also known for her gangly legs and arms back in her ballet class when she was a kid. So she has a real affinity with the Jabiru and its her spirit bird.
Brilliant, we have seen a salty croc and a Jabiru in a morning’s work and they are elusive no more.
Retiring to the billabong and jetty, we are swiftly returned to Cooinda Lodge for an all you can eat buffet breakfast which is a perfect way to end the sunrise tour.
It doesn’t end there folks. We took advantage of booking on the Sunset Yellow Water boat tour tonight for an extra $25 each so we will get to see a different timeline and capture the birds and wildlife before the setting of the sun. See additional footprint.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryWest ArnhemYellow Water12°54’18” S 132°31’14” E
June 28, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
Following on from sunrise, we are back at Yellow Water for a 2 hour sunset cruise. This evening’s entertainment and informative guide to the Yellow Water is Reuben’s brother Dennis. Not sure if Dennis is a Brother Brother, a Brother or just a Brother? What we know is that they are related and are from the same clan, the Murumburr people who have many brothers, sisters, aunts and uncles of the same blood line.
Dennis is a larger well rounded man with a wide Akubra hat and he likes his geese fat, his buffalo juicy and tender and his favourite recipe is duck curry.
As Dennis boards the vessel, a passenger on the front row notices something on the brim of his hat. It’s a large Huntsman Spider the size of a hand and Dennis calmly flips it off and we haven’t even started our adventure yet.
The sun is still relatively high and hot at 4.30pm but there’s a different vibe to the place and everything is brighter and the yellow water is shining well... yellow. Reason, the Melaleuca tree roots have created a yellow tinge to the water.
Straight away we spot a dominant male ”Max the croc” on the banks of the Billiabong and within moments, the adrenaline is up and it’s all happening again...
Nine o’clock, Sea Eagles pitched on a dead tree branch, one o’clock, Wild Horses behind the scrub protecting a foal, eleven o’clock a lone Brown Kite in the tree, wait on is that a snake in the tree as well, three o’clock, Wood Ducks with their tiger like markings, twelve o’clock in the distance, wild Buffalo grazing, above and on the move, a large Jabiru in flight which looks like a Terradactyle, one thirty upstream, a group of ducks are spooked by something, probably a croc and take off on mass into the sunset.
Phew, let’s take a breath for a moment.
Dennis spots a large male crocodile fully out on the left river bank. He’s impressive in size and we get so close to him on the bank that one could reach out and almost touch. Not so quick, he spotted us well before we spotted him and his eyes are following our every move so careful, his reaction time is like lightening. The croc is a new male to the area and Dennis tells us there’s about 300 crocs per 1km stretch of water so if you fall in, chances are, you be eaten.
The large male croc suddenly turns, pitches his head up and opens his mammoth jaws as a sign of aggression, don’t mess with me kind of look. Well is there any other look???
Jen manages to get a shot of me with my back to the croc and I think she was strategically moving me closer and hesitating with the camera settings and focus... “just take the shot”.
The sun has reached the point where it drops quickly on the horizon so after two hours which seems like 30 seconds, we head back to Yellow Water billabong to sit still, sit quiet and take in sunset. The occasional bird is making its last call from the grasslands and everything has turned peaceful and calm.
Myself and Jen are totally exhausted from all the excitement on the Yellow Water Cruise today. Dawn till dusk, It’s been a blast. We get dropped off at the resort again and treat ourselves to battered Barramundi and chips from the food van at the resort as a dinner treat.
Kakadu has been an amazing place, a 2.4 billion year old place where you have to sit still, take it all in and appreciate the abundance of wildlife, the spirit of Dreamtime and a 65,000 year old Aboriginal culture that still follow the same stories and traditions today.
Bobo.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryKatherine14°19’8” S 132°25’11” E
June 29, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
Yeah right... I think we’ve been here before. In fact this is our fourth visit to Katherine on our trip. The first after crossing from the East Coast and up the middle, the 2nd after blowing a tyre on the campervan 30km north of Katherine so a return visit, the third as we drove down from Darwin turning west towards Kimberley and the Gibb and the fourth today driving from Kakadu.
DRIVE: Cooinda Lodge to Katherine, Nitmuluk National Park via Edith Falls (300km).
After reaching the Stuart Highway from Kakadu Highway, we turn right instead of left and visit the little community of Pine Creek, just up the road. For a place in the middle of nowhere, it punches well above its weight and The Railway Resort has a trendy cafe/restaurant that is encapsulating in the design of a locomotive. The railway and industry has played an important role in Pine Creek so there’s a fair bit of infrastructure and facilities. We tuck into home made beef pies for brunch.
From Pine Creek, we head down the Stuart Highway and before reaching Katherine, we side track to visit Edith Falls. It’s a pretty place with a wide open lagoon fed by a small waterfall which in turn is fed by a bigger one further upstream.
Edith Falls is the finishing point for the 6 day Jatbulla trail/hike which starts at Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge). We have done our big hike for this trip on Hinchenbrook so we’re relieved that we are not doing this one. A pleasant swim out to the base of the falls is the order for the day. I try catching a lift on a turtles back but Jen throws me off straight away.
Edith Falls has a cafe and is a popular camping area which is filling up fast. Today is the start of the school holidays so we are expecting things to get a bit busier from here on in. We are staying at Katherine Gorge so that we can experience the gorge on our doorstep so after being refreshed at Edith Falls, we move on.
Next stop is Katherine town centre for some supplies. I visit BWS (Beers, Wines and Spirits) for red wine, corona and cider. Two police men are inside the store checking the id of everyone wanting to buy alcohol. I hand over my driver’s license and the police officer asks me where I will be consuming. Well in me van of course and he lets me on my way. Obviously there are many problems associated with alcohol and the Aboriginal community so the police are enforcing strict protocol.
CAMP: Nitmuluk Caravan Park / 2 Nights
Less that 30km from Katherine centre is Nitmiluk National Park and the start of Katherine Gorge. We are staying two nights here, one to chill and one to explore the gorge.
Jen enquires at the ranger’s office about using our kayaks to explore Katherine Gorge. Well yes we can but gorge one is off limits due to the sighting of a salt water crocodile and personal kayaks are not allowed on the ferry to gorge two, only hired ones. So the only way is to carry our kayaks 6km to gorge two. That sounds a bit dumb so to kayak Katherine Gorge, we would have to hire them for 80 bucks each.
No worries, we decide to book on a 4 hour morning cruise of three of the gorges instead and sit back, rest up and just enjoy. Besides, we get fed and watered and it will be an easier way to take photos. So that’s what we are doing tomorrow.
With campervan all set up, we walk to the boat ramp at the start of gorge one and follow a pathway and steep steps leading up to a view overlooking the river.
The sun is perfect for a bit of theatrical fun so we take some shots of our shadows on the sandstone rock. It’s our version of spirit rock art. I am the of course the spirit of siesta time and Jen is the spirit of book reading. We try Peter Pan and Wendy but my personal favourite is the gun to the head shot and there’s one of Jen being like a Jabiru, her spirit bird.
As we start to head back down from the lookout, from across the river and over the ridge of the sandstone cliffs we hear what sounds like, well a dinosaur. It just didn’t sound like any other wildlife we had heard before and we both look at each other in bewilderment and surprise. “what was that”.
Back at camp, a female country and western singer/guitarist is playing great old time music set up around the pool/bar area. It’s a great vibe as we listen from our campsite whilst we enjoy a home made chicken Korma curry and a glass of red.
I think Kakadu has mellowed us out a bit and taught us the importance of just sitting and contemplating with no clutter. That’s cool cos I like to either go all out or chill out.
Speaking of chilling, yesterday a German bloke says hello, how’s your day to me and I reply “just chillin” to which he replies “why are you so cold, it’s 30 degrees”.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryKatherine14°18’46” S 132°25’24” E
June 30, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
We have reached the last day of June and already suffered through one month of winter at a chilling 30 degrees every day. In fact, we last saw rainfall in Darwin on 18th May. It was warm last night too so neither of us got the best of sleeps.
This morning we make our way to Katherine Gorge jetty and the start of our 4 hour Katherine Gorge “timeless land” cruise. The bats are still squarking in the trees. We are travelling through three gorges that are separated by dry rock and boulders this time of the year so we have to boat hop.
the naming of Katherine Gorge is rather uninspiring although we can agree, Katherine is a beautiful name. It was named after the second daughter of a wealthy entrepreneur and Pastoralist James Chambers Esq. He funded an exploration of the area by John McDouall Stuart in 1862. One of his other daughters is named Edith, hence, Edith Falls down the road.
I think we passed a dry creek bed on our way through so we’ll have that, “Jaime’s Creek”. She can add that to “Jaime’s Bar”.
The Aboriginal name for Katherine Gorge is Nitmiluk and the Jawoyn clan are traditional owners and custodians of this timeless land.
Now Katherine Gorge is part of the Arnhem Sandstone Plateau which runs all the way from the top end of Kakadu and Arnhem Land. Katherine river runs all year but can peak up to 15m higher than the current level during the wet season.
There are a few lazy fresh water crocodiles on the banks and we see protected sandy areas where they lay their eggs. Only 1% of all crocodile eggs survive and make it to adulthood. We don’t see any other wildlife of note on the cruise and most wildlife is active teal early in the morning or before sunset. 9.00am is like an afternoon snooze to them to escape the heat. Except for us human folk...
The second gorge is the most impressive with taller ridge lines and vertical sandstone walls. Occasionally, a fault line on one side of the gorge where the sandstone has fractured is replicated on the opposite side of the river. In these pockets, plants and trees thrive.
Back at the section between gorge one and two are a couple of swimming holes. They are cold and shallow but Jen takes the plunge as I take up my important role as a vertical life guard from the rocks. The Jawoyn people are not allowed to fish swim or drink these waters as they may disturb Bolung, the Rainbow Searpant and his spirit may cause lightening or a great Monsoon. We apparently are ok though.
The camp ground is a buzz when we return as there are two year nine school groups setting up camp, both from Melbourne, Wantirna College and Brentwood Secondary College. They are travelling up the centre to Darwin and back and have set up their Nomadic tents in circles with the boys in one hemisphere and the girls in the other. That’s a lot of mouths to feed and keep happy.Read more
AustraliaNorthern TerritoryDevils Marbles20°34’5” S 134°15’51” E
July 1, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
We’ve packed up super early this morning from Katherine Gorge and hit the road to make some distance. Our original plan was to split the distance to Alice Springs and stay at Banka Banka Station tonight, a 602km drive. We stayed at Banka Banka on the way up in May and got eaten by flies. Remember Jen wearing her fly and mozzie net over her head and face. So we decide to keep going and give the aeroguard a rest.
DRIVE: Katherine Gorge to The Devils Marbles (798km).
We push on to reach The Devils Marbles about 100km south of Tennant Creek to see sunset and wake up to a colourful sunrise. So our distance is 800km door to door inclusive of a 2km detour. Its dead quiet for traffic heading our way south and busy with a procession of migrating caravans heading north for the warmth. People look at us as if we are mad, travelling south at this time of the year, you’ve lost ya marbles... i just thought of that one so snook it in.
On our way, we stop at Daly Waters, a famous pub just off the Stuart Highway (2km), a couple of hours south of Katherine. It’s a crazy place with trophy bras draping everywhere, thongs hanging from rope lines, tee shirts, hats, old car number plates, you name it, people have likely left it here. What is it with human behaviour? I think the aliens saw this place and decided to hyperspace the hell out of here... It quite a fun place actually if you like that sort of thing. There’s interesting people from all walks of life who come here to stay in the caravan park just for the pub. Check out the petrol station across the road from the pub.
We order a refreshment at the bar, drink it quick like and hyperspace the hell out of here. (not great English on porpoise, it sets the scene well).
There’s plenty of petrol stops every 150-200km on our way south so we fuel up when we need it.
We pass Banka Banka Station which looks busy, then Three Ways intersection and find ourselves on unchartered bitumen and 30km to Tennant Creek. Rumour has it that Tennant Creek is the only place in Australia where it’s advised to leave ya engine running whilst filling up with petrol? So we fill up and get the hell out a there too.
CAMP: The Devils Marbles / 1 Night
Another 113km of lazer straight road and we arrive at The Devils Marbles and roll in at 4.45pm, an hour and a bit before sunset. There’s a camping site here, a place to stop over for the night and well, everyone’s stopping over. it’s more like a parking lot and the place is jam packed with caravans, tents and even people sleeping on the dirt and gravel. I know it’s a bit late but there must be a spot for us. We drive a loop and it looks grim, then i spot a narrow slot between a few dividing posts and a caravan. Basically we have squeezed in on a spot that has a fire pit in it and we are parked right next to the fire pit. Hope no one starts a fire here tonight otherwise we will be up in smoke.
The Devils Marbles are a collection of huge, red, rounded granite boulders. This place is quite surreal and out of this world. The boulders have been calved by nature over millions of years into hundreds of roundish marbles 360 degrees as far as the eye can see. it’s a magical backdrop for a setting sun and the shadows and colours amongst the marbles create quite an atmosphere. The sky is devoid of clouds, just fading blue sky, dark red rock, green spinifex and a falling orange sun.
This is a sacred Aboriginal site known by the local Warumungu Aboriginals as Karlu Karlu and there are many culturally sensitive areas in and around what we call the Devils Marbles.
So why the Devils Marbles?. Well the marble bit is straight forward as the ancient round granite rocks look like marbles, but the devil... The origin of the English name for the boulders is the following quote:
This is the Devil’s country; he’s even emptied his bag of marbles around the place! - John Ross, Australian Overland Telegraph Line expedition, 1870. Devils Marbles it is then.
We take a walk and follow many a well trodden path that leads through the marbles. Some of the landscape is easy to climb up on for a better vantage point offering spectacular views.
Another great sunset to cherish as we watch the marbles turn from warm ocre to dark red, then black.
It’s time for dinner. The campsite doesn’t have tap water and it’s BYO. We have very little water left so I empty my drink bottle into a pan to cook some potatoes to go with chicken kiev. It’s a desperate situation, we are forced to replace water with red wine to drink and I know it sounds extravagant but we will have to wash the dishes with... soda water.
We are in the Northern Territory and in NT, you can buy fireworks and set them off, unlike other states where it’s illegal. From behind a caravan in the camp comes a rocket and a loud bang followed by short bursts of fireworks and cheers from the kids. Obviously dad has spared no expense buying his stash of fireworks and the show is greatly appreciated by all, all be it a little scattered in between setting off fireworks as he manually lights them.
I hope the fireworks haven’t woken up the spirits and messed with the devil. We could all be turned into stone (marbles) by the night’s end.
Tired from driving, it’s an early night but now that we have made distance, we can hang around in the morning and explore the Devils Marbles some more.
One by one, the open fires die out, caravan lights are turned off, the place is deathly silent and wow, there’s a billion stars in the night sky.
Its eerily quiet, like all the people in their caravans have been taken (empty) and the place has no sound and no signs of life. Except at about midnight, there’s sounds breaking the silence coming from a number of cars close by. The black Kites have risen and someone’s out there trying their luck to find an unlocked car door. I see a flash light too so i get up and stand in the darkness shining my torch to rat them out. It goes deadly silent once more...Read more
