Katherine... Deja Vu

Yeah right... I think we’ve been here before. In fact this is our fourth visit to Katherine on our trip. The first after crossing from the East Coast and up the middle, the 2nd after blowing a tyre on the campervan 30km north of Katherine so a return visit, the third as we drove down from Darwin turning west towards Kimberley and the Gibb and the fourth today driving from Kakadu.

DRIVE: Cooinda Lodge to Katherine, Nitmuluk National Park via Edith Falls (300km).

After reaching the Stuart Highway from Kakadu Highway, we turn right instead of left and visit the little community of Pine Creek, just up the road. For a place in the middle of nowhere, it punches well above its weight and The Railway Resort has a trendy cafe/restaurant that is encapsulating in the design of a locomotive. The railway and industry has played an important role in Pine Creek so there’s a fair bit of infrastructure and facilities. We tuck into home made beef pies for brunch.

From Pine Creek, we head down the Stuart Highway and before reaching Katherine, we side track to visit Edith Falls. It’s a pretty place with a wide open lagoon fed by a small waterfall which in turn is fed by a bigger one further upstream.

Edith Falls is the finishing point for the 6 day Jatbulla trail/hike which starts at Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge). We have done our big hike for this trip on Hinchenbrook so we’re relieved that we are not doing this one. A pleasant swim out to the base of the falls is the order for the day. I try catching a lift on a turtles back but Jen throws me off straight away.

Edith Falls has a cafe and is a popular camping area which is filling up fast. Today is the start of the school holidays so we are expecting things to get a bit busier from here on in. We are staying at Katherine Gorge so that we can experience the gorge on our doorstep so after being refreshed at Edith Falls, we move on.

Next stop is Katherine town centre for some supplies. I visit BWS (Beers, Wines and Spirits) for red wine, corona and cider. Two police men are inside the store checking the id of everyone wanting to buy alcohol. I hand over my driver’s license and the police officer asks me where I will be consuming. Well in me van of course and he lets me on my way. Obviously there are many problems associated with alcohol and the Aboriginal community so the police are enforcing strict protocol.

CAMP: Nitmuluk Caravan Park / 2 Nights

Less that 30km from Katherine centre is Nitmiluk National Park and the start of Katherine Gorge. We are staying two nights here, one to chill and one to explore the gorge.

Jen enquires at the ranger’s office about using our kayaks to explore Katherine Gorge. Well yes we can but gorge one is off limits due to the sighting of a salt water crocodile and personal kayaks are not allowed on the ferry to gorge two, only hired ones. So the only way is to carry our kayaks 6km to gorge two. That sounds a bit dumb so to kayak Katherine Gorge, we would have to hire them for 80 bucks each.

No worries, we decide to book on a 4 hour morning cruise of three of the gorges instead and sit back, rest up and just enjoy. Besides, we get fed and watered and it will be an easier way to take photos. So that’s what we are doing tomorrow.

With campervan all set up, we walk to the boat ramp at the start of gorge one and follow a pathway and steep steps leading up to a view overlooking the river.

The sun is perfect for a bit of theatrical fun so we take some shots of our shadows on the sandstone rock. It’s our version of spirit rock art. I am the of course the spirit of siesta time and Jen is the spirit of book reading. We try Peter Pan and Wendy but my personal favourite is the gun to the head shot and there’s one of Jen being like a Jabiru, her spirit bird.

As we start to head back down from the lookout, from across the river and over the ridge of the sandstone cliffs we hear what sounds like, well a dinosaur. It just didn’t sound like any other wildlife we had heard before and we both look at each other in bewilderment and surprise. “what was that”.

Back at camp, a female country and western singer/guitarist is playing great old time music set up around the pool/bar area. It’s a great vibe as we listen from our campsite whilst we enjoy a home made chicken Korma curry and a glass of red.

I think Kakadu has mellowed us out a bit and taught us the importance of just sitting and contemplating with no clutter. That’s cool cos I like to either go all out or chill out.

Speaking of chilling, yesterday a German bloke says hello, how’s your day to me and I reply “just chillin” to which he replies “why are you so cold, it’s 30 degrees”.Læs mere