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India
  • Wandering Again
  • Augie Brinker
  • Sophie Brinker
  • Wandering Again
  • Augie Brinker
  • Sophie Brinker

India

North, South and a Wedding in Between Read more
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  • Trip start
    December 5, 2018
    India

    Off to the Subcontinent

    December 5, 2018 in the United States ☁️ 11 °C

    Subcontinent. Who calls India that anyway? British probably.

    We're all packed and off again. Our friend Don just dropped us off at SFO. California to Vancouver followed by a short, 14 hour flight to Indira Gandhi Airport in Delhi. Sophie met us here with a box of macarons given to her by a person who owns a french bakery in the airport.(see photo) It seems Sophie helped this woman load her bag in the airport shuttle and was repaid in confections! Augie is currently in route from a small town Laos to Thailand and will meet us at the airport in Delhi.

    As usual our plan is anything but simple.

    Keoladeo. Driver meets us at the airport and drives us four hours to the Iora Guest House in Biratpur. We take day trips to Chand Boari Stepwell, the Taj Mahal, and frequent visits to the nearby Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary.

    Southern India. We fly from Delhi to the south Indian city of Kochi where we join this Intrepid Travel tour. I am particularly interested in the food tours. Sophie is looking for block printing places, Augie likes the temples, and Nancy is just taking it all in. https://www.intrepidtravel.com/us/india/souther…

    Mumbai. We fly to Mumbai and attend the week long wedding of the nephew of our dear friends John (Jules) and Varsha. Nancy and I will also be celebrating our 30th wedding anniversary on New Year's Eve. After all of the celebrating Sophie leaves us and flies back to the States. :(

    Rajasthan. We fly to Jaipur and take a circuitous route exploring Bundi, Bikaner (camel festival), to Jaisalmer and everything in between. Sometime in there Augie flies back to the States. :(

    The Punjab. Train to Amritsar to visit the Golden Temple and (perhaps) rent motorbikes to explore the foothills of the Himalaya from Dharamshala to Shimla.

    Exit Indira Gandhi Airport and return to Santa Cruz in early February.

    Whew!

    Should be interesting.    Read more

  • India
    Delhi Airport
    Delhi AirportSmogNancy WaitingOwletCrane NestBirding by Rickshaw

    36 Hours Later

    December 7, 2018 in India 🌙 18 °C

    A day and a half later and we've flown halfway around the world, met up with Augie, driven six hours through Delhi area traffic, checked into our hotel, and taken a rickshaw tour through Keoladeo bird sanctuary.

    India appears to be much as I remember it from 45 years ago although I'm sure that this perception will change over the coming days. There's a winter haze hanging in the air from the burning of the fields following the harvest. Today the air particulate matter is hovering around a toxic 600. Beautiful green fields followed closely by sanitation nightmares. Ox carts, scooters, runaway buses, dogs, cows, diesel semis, and speeding cars all working incessantly toward sharing as little of the road as they can get away with while driving as fast as possible. Colorful clothes, inquisitive children and lots of people with laughter in their eyes.

    A couple of hours at the bird sanctuary this afternoon netted about 40 bird identifications. The four of us had a wonderful time. Here's a link to a photo album that I put together on the experience.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/khicknZBQ3jXnHd8A

    Tonight we eat late and hit the sack early. Our jetlag is not too bad all considering. I am a bit fatigued so I'll cut this short. Tomorrow we're off to Chand Baori stepwell.    Read more

  • India
    PosingWandering Again1Nancy in her usual positionOnion Garlic Pakora with green chili sauce

    Chand Baori Stepwell

    December 8, 2018 in India ☀️ 24 °C

    Today we hired a driver, Laxman, to take us some 50 miles west to Chand Boari stepwell. Stepwells are all over India, but are really prevalent in Rajasthan. They are wells dug deep into the ground with steps for carrying water. The temperature at the bottom of the well is 5 to 6 degrees cooler than at ground level, so these were used as gathering places during the hot weather. As the water level rises and falls the lower steps are revealed or submerged depending on the season. Monsoon. They are associated with the female goddess of joy and happiness Harshat Mata. Often women are/were responsible for the ritual celebrations.

    Chand Baori is one of the oldest stepwells. It was built by King Chanda between 800 CE and 900 CE. Chand Baori consists of 3,500 narrow steps over 13 stories. It extends approximately 30 m (100 ft) into the ground making it one of the deepest and largest stepwells in India.

    It is a remarkable structure and really worth a visit, even if your son didn't graduate from college with a degree in water management.

    On the drive back we asked Laxman to take us through some smaller roads in the countryside. There were lots of interesting slices of life coming to us as we drifted past. Goat herds in the hundreds, women gathering in saffron saris on rooftops, and one striking image of a Muslim woman dressed from head to toe in a deep magenta sari floating through a yellow field of rapeseed.    Read more

  • India
    We Made It!Protecting the Marble1Nancy's BlurMisty Morning in AgraMother Alma's Hospital

    Agra

    December 8, 2018 in India ☀️ 24 °C

    Today we woke at 4am and drove two hours to witness the Taj Mahal in a misty sunrise.

    It is pretty much all that everyone says it is.

    Sublime and awe inspiring.

    Still sort of in awe.

    On the way back to Bharatpur we dropped by Shanti Mangalick hospital (just as promised) where Nancy's mom, Alma, spent three months volunteering as a nurse back in the 80s.Read more

  • India
    Direct Conduit
    Direct Conduit1Lounging Again!Jew TownAugie, Hans, and JeveshKavali DanceNight Scene Kochi

    Keoladeo to Kochi and Intrepid Travel

    December 11, 2018 in India 🌫 26 °C

    We piled in the car for one last five hour drive with Laxman Singh from Iora Guest House to the Delhi Airport. Stopped for coffee at a modern shop by the side of the highway. The photo below was taken from our seats in the place. Can't get much more direct cause and effect than that. Open sewer from the Café runs right into the vacant lot next door which is filled with garbage from the same establishment. On the flight over I'd read about the contradiction between holding the Ganges river sacred as the mother of life, yet polluting it to unheard of levels. There are groups trying to make the connection and publicize the worst offenders. All the while we're driving through a thick haze of Delhi air in a diesel powered sedan and about to board a flight to the south of India. Can't get much more direct cause and effect than that...

    In the airport the family messed around with the massage chairs in the lounge for a bit while I knocked back a whiskey on ice before the flight. Sanju picked us up at the Kochi Airport and drove us into town. He was pretty proud of his home state of Kerala. Talked about the recent monsoon floods leading to 100,000 displaced people and 500 dead if one includes those still missing. Said the recovery was going well, but tourism was down. A big problem for a state with no manufacturing. He noted that the state was run by the first democratically elected Communist government. Their rule for the past decades has lead to the highest literacy rate in India.

    Kochi is a pretty chill town. Intrepid Travel, the company we're traveling with, arranged a tour. The guide, Peter, explained that Kochi's history as a port city on the Malabar coast goes back thousands of years. Jews first arrived following the second burning of the temple in Jerusalem in 79ce. Another wave came through in the time of the Inquisition, but they didn't worship with or intermarry with the first group. Jew Town has the oldest continuing active synagogue in the Commonwealth. In more recent centuries it was colonized by the Portuguese, Dutch, and British. Their architecture abounds. Lots of small shops, restaurants, and cafés. Art murals can be found all around the city.

    The guide went into a long statement about the effects of the Swiss reformed church in the area. They went to great lengths to deconstruct the caste system that had been introduced to the South from Northern India around 1000ce. They used a land tax system to make it too expensive for large feudal land owners to hold their land and incentivized its transfer to the small farmers who'd been working the land. The Reformed church also introduced schooling for all, including untouchables, which further eroded the caste system. He described the multireligious, multi economic, multi cultural tolerance that the area is known for.

    Greater Malabar is even more ancient. Dawn of human civilization stuff. Hunter-gatherers beachcombed from the African Rift Valley along the Indian Ocean coast until they reached a place of such abundance that they stopped. Kerala. It is the source of civilization in India. I learned that Brahmins pass mantras on to their sons when they reach the age of manhood. Linguists have studied these chants and found no connection to any known language. The closest correlation they can find is to birdsong. The assumption is that the mantras have been passed down since before humans took up language.

    Wild.

    This afternoon Augie and I took a walk along the waterfront where we met up with several pilgrims who had left their village to do a pilgrimage to the holy sites of South India. Jevesh said that every few years he goes on a pilgrimage with the other men from his village. Usually in December and January. He told us a story about an ailing queen who was tricked into sending her second born son into the wilderness to get tiger's milk to heal her ills. The boy came back riding a tiger. The father then recognized the son's divinity.

    This evening we took in a traditional dance exhibition. Tomorrow we're off to the mountains.    Read more

  • India
    A Good Crew
    A Good Crew1Station Steps1Train to the NorthBest Lunch!Tea Highlands

    Journey the Nilgiri Tea Highlands

    December 13, 2018 in India ⛅ 22 °C

    Our Intrepid Travel tour is made up of eight individuals, four of whom are well known. Two couples have joined the trip, one from New York, Ina and Anatole and the other from New Zealand, Suzanne and Scott. The guide is VJ from Rajasthan. Everyone is a veteran traveler. So far so good.

    Yesterday we left Kochi and headed up to the tea highlands by train. We rode in second class cars and were fortunate to have seats together. I got a little bored on the train and spent part of the time taking photos of all the methods concocted to keep trays latched. We had an amazing lunch at a roadside restaurant along the way. Thali trays of South Indian delights. One of our number, Suzanne, is a chef's consultant in Auckland and is really into the food end of things. This should be fun!

    Once we made it to the Tiger's Hill Inn in Conoor Nancy, Sophie, and I took off on a nice hike in the tea fields. The road snaked along the side of a steep mountain dipping in and out of dense forest. As dusk set in a gentleman came alongside on a scooter and urged us to turn back because 'animals are coming!' Up here that could mean any number of things, including lost big cats so we decided to grab the next rickshaw and hightail it back.    Read more

  • India
    Tea Highlands
    Tea HighlandsTeaTea DryingAt the StationToy TrainConoor to Ooty

    Tea Highlands Tour

    December 13, 2018 in India ☁️ 15 °C

    Augie and Nancy came down with separate illnesses overnight. Augie wasn't up for the day's activities and stayed behind in Conoor to rest. Nancy, Sophie, and I spent the morning touring the Highlands Tea Factory in nearby Wellington. The tour was good although it covered a lot of familiar ground. We learned that tea harvesting happens all year, but the main harvest is in June when the monsoon rains bring fast growth. The guide explained that they employ one hundred pickers year round and several thousand during the wet months. While there, we noticed that several of the workers in the factory were migrants from Southeast Asia. He also explained that a picker's quota of leaves for black or green tea is around 40 kilograms or 88 pounds per day. The same pickers quota of white tip tea picked is 100 grams or less than a quarter pound per day.

    In the afternoon we caught a toy train from Conoor to Ooti. A World Heritage experience. Both towns were Hill Stations and are tea centers. Quite a nice ride through some lovely country. Much like our epic train ride through the Highlands in Sri Lanka.

    Upon return we found Augie to be much improved and ready for tomorrow's safari in the Bandipur Tiger Reserve.    Read more

  • India
    No Selfies...
    No Selfies...Using Mobile While DrivingThe Best MealSpotted DeerBaby Asian ElephantStarling

    Bandipur Tiger Reserve

    December 14, 2018 in India ⛅ 22 °C

    We left the tea highlands and the state of Tamil Nadu and headed north to the Bandipur Tiger Reserve in Karnatika state. As we drove into the reserve I caught the photo of the young mahoot talking on his cell phone while driving.

    We stayed at a very nice lodge with amazing food. Lunch was a collection of indigenous items including three dishes made with millet. Anthony Bourdain said of Indian food that it is the only menu in the world that could make him not miss eating meat. This was certainly the case. I counted 22 different dishes.

    We boarded a safari vehicle and took a bumpy three hour ride into the reserve. We didn't see any big cats, but did see two types of deer and a few mongoose. As we drove back to lodge we saw a wild baby tusker in the brush. See photos.

    The next morning Augie and I woke early and went birdwatching with a local naturalist. I caught a few nice photos from distance. The photo below is of a Bramany Starling. The Bramany comes into play in the name when the rust chest appears.

    Nancy is still up coughing at night and generally feeling low.    Read more

  • India
    Posing at the Temple
    Posing at the TempleCan't Increase the SaturationSerious PhotojournalistPalace LightsSophie rolling incensePick out the Failed Monk

    Mysore

    December 16, 2018 in India ☁️ 25 °C

    Today we entered Mysore. A busy metropolis of some 1.8 million people. We started things off at a local temple marking the site where the demon Mahishasura was killed here by Goddess Chamundeshwari. The demon believed himself to be indestructible and the goddess pretty much proved that this was not the case.

    Nancy toughed things out in the morning, but by afternoon she was laid up with a low grade fever. She skipped the visit to the Maja Raja's palace and the follow up visit to an incense and essential oils factory. The palace is said to be the second most visited tourist site outside of the Taj Mahal. It is an interesting structure with loads of history. One guy who was born nearby came up to me and opined, "You know where they found the money to build this here? From us and our labor; you know". The women were dressed to the nines. We saw many exquisite saris and lots of regally made up babies. At 7pm on National holidays and Sundays they light up the palace. We stuck around with about 1.4 million Mysorians and witnessed the event. Augie caught it on video:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/N5cHfcvgpXKNYZqRA

    We also had a chance to visit an incense and essential oils factory in town. The purveyor showed us how they roll incense sticks and dabbed scented oils on us explaining each oil's essential properties and various uses. Augie and I learned a lot while Sophie participated in the stick rolling and bought some of the more essential oils. I think that lotus flower oil was my favorite.

    Nancy also missed some of the nonsense we were caught up in around the taking of selfies. It seems that everywhere we go we are stopped by people asking where we are from and requesting selfies with us. It must be a 'thing'. Sophie and Augie respond congeneally. I respond by uninvitedly joining people's attempts at family photos and seeking out interesting groups to solicit my own selfies. (see photo with some of of my new Tibetan friends)

    Tomorrow we're off to another temple and end up taking the night train to the east.    Read more

  • India
    Garlic!
    Garlic!1The offending dish is front and centerOur compartmentTight quartersLaid up.

    Worst Possible Timing

    December 18, 2018 in India ⛅ 16 °C

    We spent the day in Mysore visiting the market. Sophie and I went to a government run silk factory where they make material for many of the gorgeous saris that this city is known for. They didn't allow cameras, so we left without photos. They wind 10 strands of silk into one thread then feed them through giant looms. Everything was mechanized, but there were hundreds of employees tending the machinery. The shuttles moved incredibly quickly back and forth across the loom. Couldn't really follow them with our eyes as they moved.

    In the evening we had dinner at the home of a long time Intrepid Travel guide and his family. Chicken Birryani and an eggplant dish. The food was delicious.

    We then boarded an Indian Railways overnight train for Chennai. Accommodations were a bit different than the last time I traveled on one of these trains 45 years ago. Porters bringing chai, making up the compartments, and seeing to every need. Now first class tickets have to be reserved months in advance. All other classes basically require a mad scramble with no guarantee that seats/berths will be together. Our second class berths were in an open compartment with eight others. At bedtime we folded the backrests up to form a middle of three berths per side. The seats at the passage end make up the seventh and eighth bunks. It is crowded.

    The night didn't go so well. I thought it would be a good sleep from the gentle rocking of the train. The ride was much more jolting than I remembered or expected. Sleep was difficult what with people moving up and down out of the bunks, babies crying,, and Nancy's snoring exacerbated by her headcold. Then it got bad. I thought it was motion sickness from the movement of the train. By 3:00am I was scurrying to the squat toilet at the end of the car. I'll spare the details, but this sort of thing is not easy or sanitary on a train moving at 60 mph and jolting back and forth.

    Sophie and I spent the last 24 hours sick and sleeping in our hotel rooms in Mamallapuram. Another of our crew experienced the same. All three of us had taken seconds of the aubergine dish the night before.

    Nancy and Augie spent the day experiencing the charming city, going to the beach, and riding bicycles around the temple complex. Their report follows.    Read more

  • India
    Pilgrims dressed in red at the beach
    Pilgrims dressed in red at the beachThe Five RathasArunja's PenanceLife sized bas reliefAt the Shore Temple1Shore Temple

    Ancient Sea Culture of Mamallapuram

    December 18, 2018 in India 🌫 25 °C

    Mamallapuram

    While Hans and Sophie were recovering, I spent the afternoon wandering with Ina and Anatole, a couple from Brooklyn on the trip. We decided to head down to the beach; our tour later in the afternoon would take us to the UNESCO monuments built in the 7th and 8th centuries that Mamallapuram is famous for.

    As we walked down the road from the hotel, and hooked a left for the beach, we noticed an astounding number of men and women dressed in brilliant red and orange tunics and trousers or saris. Women had woven flowers into their braids. There was a general festive air. The road eventually petered out into a sand track lined with stalls, selling trinkets. Anything you could imagine. Shoes, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, bags, backpacks, whistles, sarongs, stone sculptures, soapstone elephants, plastic toys like what you'd see in a McDonald's Happy Meal back in the day. We could have gotten a tattoo if we wanted or had our picture taken with a monkey in a dress. Or, we could have our name etched into a grain of rice and put into a bracelet. Plenty of options!

    Throngs of people stood at the shoreline, cooling off and watching the waves. Kids played in the water, a group of women got soaking wet, saris and all. A few enterprising young men gave pony rides.

    Later in the afternoon, we met up with VJ, Augie, and Scott to bike to the sites on the monument tour. Our first stop was The Five Rathas, the five rock temples carved in the form of chariots. The temples were carved from a single granite boulder (a gigantic boulder!). The carvings took shape from the top down, and the rock was split (somehow) using wooden wedges and water.

    We saw Arjuna's Penance, one of the tallest bas relief structures in the world, second to Ankor Watt. I think the guide was saying that some of the temples in the Ankor Watt complex are in the Tamil style. The carvings here were exquisite, very delicate and precise, not at all damaged or worn.

    We also visited a cave temple, as well Krishna's Butterball, a 250 ton 20 foot tall rock balancing on a steep incline. Apparently, a British governor, citing safety concerns, tried to move the rock with 8 elephants, but it wouldn't budge. (We also saw a sausage tree, one if the wierdest trees I've ever seen. The fruits look exactly like sausages and are supposed to be good for liver health.)

    The most impressive temple of all was the Shore Temple, the last remaining temple of 7. It's on the shore of the Bay of Bengal, and the other 6 temples are now underwater. We were told that in the 2004 tsunami, the 6 temples appeared just before the tidal wave hit, when all the water had receded.

    When we returned, we were happy to see that Hans and Sophie were on the mend. I'm still under the weather, and have finally resorted to the antibiotics in our first aid kit.

    Tomorrow it is down the Bengal coast to Pondicherry, an old French colonial city.    Read more

  • India
    Center of the World?
    Center of the World?Goals and OutcomesThe WeaveryOut Shopping for Snack1Gandhi the Man

    Auroville and the City of Puducherry

    December 18, 2018 in India 🌙 24 °C

    Today we drove south along the Bay of Bengal to Auroville. Auroville is an intentional community of several thousand inhabitants. The vast majority of the city's inhabitants are Indian. It was founded by a French woman and widow of an local guru. She is referred to as 'the mother'. Its overarching theme is one of unity. There are 12 qualities to aspire to that are listed in the second photo below. Being conscious is an aspiration and expectation. As is the subsumation of one's ego to the greater good of the Community. It is supposed to be a cashless society, but the adherents have paid cash for most of the buildings at the center of the old nearby French colonial city, Puducherry. The organization also accepts cash from novices and at their gift shop, cafe, and ice cream shop. One can find out more here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auroville

    At the center of the Community is a banyan tree. Next to the tree is a large circular structure designed to allow followers to reach full concentration. The first photo below depicts this structure. It is quite large. The scale of the structure kind of reminded me of the Atomium in Brussels or the Center of the World near Yuma.

    Next we drove to the the city of Puducherry. It was once a charming French colonial town, but seems to have fallen on hard times since most of the colonists left. There is a smell of sewage emanating from the gutters around town. Also a dying rat fell from a second story balcony and landed on Sophie's Instagram feature. They have, however, taken some steps to freshen up their seafront with a traffic free prominade. Otherwise the place feels a lot like any other medium sized Indian city.

    Our visit included a tour of a local weavery and a place where people make paper from discarded cotton clothing. Both are run by the Auroville people and accept cash. At the prominade we sited a statue of Gandhi on the march. The highlight was a visit to a temple of Ganesh in time for a ritual cleansing. The sights and sounds and smells were incredible. Nancy took some photos which I'll add later. In the evening Augie joined us for pizza.    Read more

  • India
    Waiting for a train
    Waiting for a trainMadurai and Meenakshi TempleMeenakshi TemplePilgrimsSophie met Maria outside of the templeHans with Jevesh in Kochi

    Pondicherry to Madurai

    December 20, 2018 in India ☀️ 31 °C

    We left Pondicherry and drove several hours to the nearest train station where we caught a four hour train to the ancient city of Madurai. Madurai is India's second oldest city behind Varanasi and home to the 14 colorful gateway towers of the Meenakshi Amaan temple. The temple is a central pilgrimage site. It is dedicated to Meenakshi, a form of the goddess Parvati, goddess of creative power, fertility, love, beauty, marriage, children, and devotion; as well as of divine strength and power.

    We walked from our hotel to the temple and met our guide Charles. Throughout our tour of the temple. we noticed a lot of new babies. Charles explained that this is one of the places that one goes to seek blessings for a good life for newborns. Parents break a coconut and use the milk to make a cake to share with friends and family. Unfortunately they don't allow cameras inside, but suffice it to say that the inside is just as chaotically decorated as the tower facades.

    A strange, and perhaps miraculous happenstance ocuurred when I was inside of the temple complex. The complex was pretty full of people. Thousands of people. Lots of pilgrims, families, and mendicants. In the center of the complex is the sanctum santorum and location of the statue of Meenakshi. There was a long cue of pilgrims waiting to enter. Suddenly I heard someone from the cue yelling my name, I turned and there was Jevesh, the pilgrim Augie and I had met on the beach in Kochi some 10 days and many miles ago. There are some 60 million people living in the south of India and we had crossed paths once again. Go figure...    Read more

  • India
    Vanilla
    VanillaAugie smelling allspiceChocolate and ginger candyMartial ArtsQuite a twisted treeWhite Throated Kingfisher

    Madurai to Periyar Tiger Reserve

    December 21, 2018 in India ☁️ 26 °C

    We loaded into a van and drove up into the mountains for five hours to Thekkady and the Periyar Tiger Reserve. On the way we stopped by a spice plantation for a tour. It was pretty interesting. Madagascar might as well be synonymous with spice. This place was all organic and the shop at the end of the tour offered tea, chocolates, and ginger candy. Later we checked into our hotel and all took naps for a few hours. Nancy and Sophie finally are on the tail end of their illnesses.

    In the evening it was recommended that we go to a local tourist trap to witness a Kalari martial arts demonstration. We were not really interested, but Nancy really wanted to go, so we walked over to the place, put down our 200 rupees apiece and took our seats. It did turn into quite a spectacle. Lots of acrobatics, clashing swords, and jumping through smoky rings of fire. One can see a short demonstration and witness Nancy's obvious delight here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NzJbezoTETC1zPBK6

    Next morning we woke really early for a walk through the tiger reserve. Once again we didn't see any big cats, but did see some interesting trees and a kingfisher.

    Tomorrow it is off to Kerala and a night at a homestay in the backwaters.    Read more

  • India
    Religious Confluence
    Religious ConfluenceBogie on boardTree House1Miyazaki?1The Ladies of the RajCanoe Helmsman

    Kerala Backwaters

    December 24, 2018 in India ☁️ 28 °C

    We drove from the highlands of Thekkady to the west coast of Kerala on the morning of the 23rd. At the first stop I realized that I'd left my camera in the room at the hotel. Arrgh! We drove through coffee, then tea, then rubber plantations as we descended. Mid-morning we arrived at a dock next to the sprawling, slow moving Pampa river. We boarded a water taxi for a ride some 45 minutes downstream to our riverside homestay.

    The ride was pleasant, but a bit noisy. It felt something like the African Queen as the diesel engine kachunked along. We passed some riverside homes. The tree house in the photo below really stood out. I'm sure that home did well during the torrential rains and flooding of the last monsoon.

    We passed many houseboats along the way. Our guide Veejay said that "there are two places to go in India, the Taj and the Kerala Backwaters." Tourism is down, so many were lying idle. The boats that we saw working were mostly engaged by Indian families. They are built on traditional hulls with thatched roofs and hobbit like windows. Many look like something out of a Miyazaki movie, except for the aircon units hanging off of the back.

    By mid-afternoon we'd reached Ayana's Pampatheeram Homestay. Very pleasant place built along a dike and right on the river backing up to rice fields. The owner took us on a long walk explaining the history of the place and pointing out native plants along the way. Coconut played a big part in the discussion. At one point he showed us how to weave some rope from the frayed husk of a coconut. He gave Sophie a homework assignment to practice spinning the husk. A video can be seen here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wnXt5FyYTRnVZL1U6
    After a short walk upstream we were met by a traditional canoe. We clambered aboard and set off downstream back to our digs. Very quiet and very pleasant time with the helmsman poling his way along the shore.

    Tomorrow is Christmas Eve. We'll be in Kochi through Christmas before catching our flight to Mumbai for the great wedding event.    Read more

  • India
    Burning Santa!
    Burning Santa!Along the walk to the next hotelSecond Breakfast!Pleased with the OfferingsDining at the Fort Kochi

    Christmas in Kochi

    December 25, 2018 in India ⛅ 33 °C

    Last night we went out for a final meal with our Intrepid Southern India tour mates. It was bittersweet as they'd made such great travel companions. Ina with her quirky, open for anything way of traveling. Anatole with his ready quips and learned input. Suzanne with her food passion and joie de vivre. And Scott with his glass always half full.

    We woke earlier than wanted, needed, or expected this Christmas morning. Long instilled force-of-habit when we are near our children? Who knows? It might also have been due to the 6am temple recitations or call to prayer being sent out in surround sound over loudspeakers to the north and east of us respectively.

    Breakfast was the usual fried egg and toast. This one came with a special surprise. It seems my lost camera had been brought in from Thekkady in the middle of the night. Nice Christmas present!

    After breakfast we called Sophie and Augie's grandparents. Grace was down with a bad cold and feeling down from the self quarantine. Alma was still healing from her nose surgery and missing her kids. Ed was enjoying his evening and still seeking a publisher for his next book. All were as excited to hear from us as we were to check in with them. Most likely we'll be in Pacific Grove for Christmas next year.

    At 11am we checked out and walked the half mile to our next hotel pulling our rollers (except Augie) and accompanied by our guide from the previous two weeks Veejay. We dropped our bags and went out for coffee together. Cappuccinos and chocolate and lemon cake all around. Second breakfast!

    This year we'd all agreed to 'no gifts'. Being together in India was enough. Still, I couldn't help myself so I gave each family member a free latte per week*.
    *recipient must submit photo of same to collect reimbursement.
    It will be nice knowing where everyone is and checking in once a week. A 'Dad Thing' I guess.

    We enjoyed a special Christmas dinner at the fancy Fort Kochi hotel and checked back into our more modest accommodations across the street for the duration.

    I did hear about a special local custom that I am sad to miss. It seems that the people of Kochi gather on the beach at midnight on New Year's Eve to burn Santa Claus. Man, what I would give to be here for that! Instead we'll be off tomorrow to Mumbai for the big wedding. But who knows? Maybe we'll start a beach bonfire tradition like this in Santa Cruz for next year.    Read more

  • India
    John and Varsha of California
    John and Varsha of CaliforniaNeela and Pinky's salonVarsha, Devi, Neela, and PinkyGlobal FusionA-1 Men's Hair ParlourWaiting his turn

    Maximum City pre-Wedding

    December 27, 2018 in India ☀️ 29 °C

    We flew from Kochi to Mumbai the day after Christmas. We arrived in the evening and immediately fell into a whirl of activity, food, and color that has lasted for days. We came to celebrate the marriage of the nephew of our long time friends John and Varsha. After checking into the hotel we headed out into the Mumbai night to pick up Varsha's sister Pinky and their mother Neela. After a short visit to the house we climbed into cars and were driven to Pinky's favourite restaurant, Global Fusion. We arrived around 10pm and were informed That this is actually quite early for an Indian dinner. Global it was. Small plates kept arriving at regular intervals followed by visits to any one of ten food stations for main dishes. All good.

    Neela is quite a force. After Varsha's dad passed when she was nine years old, Neela took over a family of four girls. Dolly, Varsha, Pinky, and, Pappu. Varsha said that the girls grew up quick. She opened a salon and supported the family with its proceeds and help from extended family. The daughters have all grown into beautiful, successful women, each in her own way. They are also forceful women, again, each in her own way. I've watched them gently direct the men in their lives with everything from clear directions to subtle gestures over the past several days. It is Dolly's son Mikhail (named after Gorbachev) whose wedding we're here to celebrate.

    One thing about this family is that they are all into glamor and bling. Appearances matter. Knowing this Augie and I spent our first morning in Mumbai getting haircuts and a beard trim. Total came to 350 Indian rupees, or about $5. We doubled that as we tipped the barber and he was pretty chuffed. Sitting next to my oldest friend Jules in that shop watching my son getting a trim was a pretty special moment. Who would have thought that the two of us would one day be sitting in a shop in Bombay watching the chai walla dole out tea to a bunch of guys who are currently our age when we met some forty plus years ago.    Read more

  • India
    Groom is covered with turmeric.
    Groom is covered with turmeric.Dolly, Dhimi, Mikhail, Trish, Lena, Ed, and DeviMehndiAugie and I couldn't resist

    Family, Family, and More Family

    December 27, 2018 in India ☀️ 27 °C

    Varsha and John invited quite a crew to this week of celebration. In addition to our family of four, we are joined by their daughter Devi and her boyfriend Ed and Ed's mother Lena. They also invited their good friends and long time neighbors Johan and Mirtha. Soon upon arriving Varsha and John informed us that we were not just invited to the wedding and reception, but to all of the family events as well.

    The first gathering happened today at the home of the groom and his parents Dolly and Dhimi. It takes place just before the wedding and is called the Haldi. Women from the groom's family burn incense, conduct a prayer, and spread purifying turmeric paste on the groom's body. The remaining paste is then taken to the bride's home where she receives a similar blessing.

    Neither bride or groom is supposed to leave their respective homes following this ceremony. Technically this was adhered to as Mikhail only traveled a few blocks to his aunt Pappu's house for a pre wedding party attended by close family and friends. The party was a thing to behold. Another lovely home, but this time there were women in attendance who specialize in Mehndi, or henna body art. Oh, and there was a sound system that would put even the most raucous University of Santa Cruz house party to shame. Oh, and there was a full bar and lots of uncles and nephews ensuring that no one had an empty glass. Oh, and there was a woman, Crystal, who sings in Bollywood movies and recently sang in a huge celebrity wedding of Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas. Oh, and so many interesting people that we ran out of time to meet them all. What a scene!    Read more

  • India
    Representing!
    Representing!More beautiful peopleBride is aloftPriest recites mantrasCircling the FlameTwo Friends

    Maharashtra and Bengali Blend

    December 28, 2018 in India ☀️ 26 °C

    The wedding day arrived and found Augie and Nancy ill and confined to bed. Augie is still down some three days later. Yikes! This left Sophie and I to represent. And represent we did! Before we'd left the States Dolly requested our measurements so that she could have traditional clothing made for the occasion. We represented in style!

    The wedding was really interesting. The groom takes his place seated in an arched mandap at the front of the hall with the priest and close relatives looking on. After quite awhile the bride is lifted by her relatives and carried up to the front. She is holding her hands in front of her face and the groom has not seen her for some 12 days before this moment. He is lifted up by his relatives and the couple meets while seemingly floating on air. (this is all really apropos as they are both airline pilots) This is really no easy feat with a groom who tops out at 111 kilos. For the next hour or so the couple remain seated under the mandap with a Brahmin priest giving advice to the couple from the ancient traditions. The couple then make offerings and walk around the fire in the center seven times. Once this is done, they are official. The whole zeitgeist is really different from a western wedding. Most of the time the several hundred attendees aren't focused on the ceremony. They're milling about, socializing, and even getting a head start at the banquet table. Photos of the wedding can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/kCmZHJFUJ5c19AJD7

    In the evening Johan and Mirtha were the first of our crew to head back to the hotel as Mirtha was also feeling a bit ill. Sophie and I sent them back with some electrolyte fluids and bananas for Augie and Nancy. Unfortunately we spent our last rupees on the food and forgot about having to secure a taxi back for ourselves. Fortunately a couple of guys from the bride's side noticed our predicament and went out of their way to deliver us safely back. The next morning Varsha commented, "It's India. This is how things are done here." Lovely.    Read more

  • India
    Gateway to India
    Gateway to India1Scottish style Regimental BandRolled Ice Cream

    Reception

    December 29, 2018 in India 🌙 26 °C

    Another night, another gala.

    Nancy and Augie were still recovering this morning so Sophie and I headed down to the old part of town to take a look. We were accompanied by Johan and Mirtha. We caught an Ola (Indian Uber) and headed for the Chor Bazaar, or Theives Market. We walked through several city blocks of metal fabricators to get to the antiques and brass items. There were shops filled with old telephones, shops with old signs, and this being India a whole corner dedicated to the sale of automobile horns. Sophie found a place dedicated to drawer pulls and made some purchases. Around that time Mirtha was wondering where the clothing shops were and so we caught another Ola and headed to the Colaba Causeway where Sophie found a few more items and we were good to go.

    By evening Nancy had begun feeling a bit better and was up for attending the reception banquet. Augie was again laid low and stayed behind as we made our way back downtown. We stopped at the Colaba Causeway again so that Nancy could buy a dress. We then walked over to the Taj hotel, the grande damme of Bombay's old luxury. The hotel is opposite the Gateway to India monument so we strolled by there as well.

    Around 8pm we caught another taxi over to the reception venue. Several hundred people were in attendance. The reception was held within a military compound. Dhiman, the groom's dad had served in the Indian military and retired as a lieutenant colonel. Our family had given additional ID documents and filled out additional security forms to be allowed entry.

    We arrived to a glamorous scene right out of Hollywood. Everyone took a turn getting their photos taken on the red carpet. There were film directors, actors, and a chantuese in attendance. There was even a military Scottish style regimental band complete with bagpipes. Again the buffet was brimming and drinks were liberally replenished. To top it off there was a huge roller spool of ice cream! (there you go, Don)

    Hopefully Augie will be back up to snuff by New Year's Eve.    Read more

  • India
    Dance PartyNewlywedsRoom Service

    Bird Excursion & New Year's Eve Gala

    December 31, 2018 in India 🌫 24 °C

    Our 30th Anniversary arrived!

    Johan had arranged a birding trip to two local reserves. The trip was led by a local ornithologist Asif N. Khan who works for BNHS, an area conservation agency. Jules joined us for his first ever birding excursion. We spent the morning birding on the edge of the Western Ghat in the Karnala bird sanctuary. The early afternoon we visited a wetland saved from by development by Asif's organization. No easy feat as 95 percent of the mangrove wetlands and islands around Mumbai have been filled in. I sighted 31 separate species, Johan probably double that. The mountain highlight for me was a scarlet minivet. The water highlight was a flock of 48 flamingo.

    We made it to the New Year's Eve celebration at the Bombay Presidency Golf Club last night. It was also our 30th anniversary so Nancy and I ducked out at 12:01. Another amazing evening. This morning we treated ourselves to a room service breakfast at the Grand Hyatt here in Mumbai.
    Here's a link to a countdown video from the evening: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1ZZAGTnRyd4E8Zah9

    Tomorrow we're off to Jaipur in the morning.    Read more

  • India
    Prakash the mate drinking social worker
    Prakash the mate drinking social workerJunter MunterLangurs at the royal tombNancy at the Water PalaceAmer PalaceWind Palace

    Jaipur

    January 4, 2019 in India 🌫 20 °C

    Sophie is gone back to Bolinas. :(

    Our crew left Mumbai and headed to Jaipur with the Panagos clan, plus nephew Nial. We were late leaving the Grand Hyatt which resulted in a relatively hectic trip to the Mumbai Airport. All eight in our group made it with the help of a security guard who switched us to the Premier Flyers line. We were among the last to board. The flight was fine. There were seats taken out to accommodate a stretcher. First time any of us had seen this. We Ubered to the Bnb, Bhola Bhawan. Nice place. Very congenial hosts and accommodations. We even have use of a kitchen.

    John and family went out to the City Palace for the light show. They ended up dining in the same room the newly installed 20 year old Maharaja of Jaipur and his school chums from England. Nancy, Augie, and I walked the streets. Along the way we met up Prakash who is a social worker at a Catholic run orphanage that houses and schools 10,000 street kids in Jaipur. Guy was drinking out of an Andean maté cup. He invited us to teach sometime over the next few days. We made it to a natural foods grocery where we purchased a jar of Ragu™ Pasta sauce and a whole pound of spaghetti. Hit the spot.

    Next morning we spent some time planning our day. Jules had a whole list of possibilities and options. The hotel owners helped us choose a couple of guide/drivers for the day. We left the hotel around noon. The first spot was the Junter Munter Astronomical Park. It is one of four such facilities built by Rajput king Sawai Jai Singh II some three centuries ago. Next we headed to the memorial tomb sites of the royals where J had a faceoff with a langur. Then it was on to the Amer Palace in the mountains north of Jaipur. Beautiful palace. We stopped at the water palace on the way up and the wind palace on the way back.

    Last night was J and Varsha's last in India, so we treated the crew to a nice meal at the Peacock Rooftop. Beautiful scene with a traditional Indian trio playing and good food to boot.    Read more

  • India
    Monkeys at Galta ji
    Monkeys at Galta jiMonkey at Galta JiLobby at the Raj Mandir CinemaSimbaHawa MahalFrom window at Hawa Mahal

    Jaipur

    January 5, 2019 in India 🌫 18 °C

    Our final evening in Jaipur we decided to go to the infamous monkey temple. The temple has been abandoned and now hosts thousands of red monkeys and langurs. Our hosts had recommended against the visit as one of their British guests had been bitten while visiting. I was concerned that we might have to cut our trip short should things go bad. But, as per usual since she entered her sixth decade, Nancy decided that she just had to go. It was pretty intense. They were moving all over the temple and running right around right next to us. Augie and I were terrified. Augie bailed early, but I bravely albeit foolishly stayed with Nancy until it was dark and she was quite finished.
    Here's a link to a video of the monkeys moving across the hillside at dusk.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZQVaj1pLheTk854c6

    Our last night in Jaipur we decided to go to the movies. Not just any movies, but a Bollywood blockbuster at the Raj Mandir Cinema that seats over a thousand people. Wild thing was that they opened the doors for seating just as the film started. Fifteen minutes in and people were still stepping over one another to claim their assigned seats. 'Simba' told the story of a young boy who sees his dad pay a bribe to a corrupt police officer and instead of taking the lesson of seeking justice, decides to grow up to be the best corrupt police officer ever. He grows up, gets a chief of police job at Miramar Station in Goa, plays favorites, and takes bribes. It all goes according to plan until he meets a sweet and kind Indian woman who sweeps him off his feet and leaves him with choices to make.
    Here are a couple of clips.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/kakAyYvfYQ1P28gQ8
    And
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/FA3aZPcBpM8xr78d8

    The next morning Nancy and I made a rush trip for photos to the Wind Palace Hawa Mahal. Caught a nice shot of the Gandhi Art Palace anf Puppet House from the window. After checkout the three of us caught an Uber to the desert and holy lake town of Pushkar.    Read more

  • India

    Pushkar

    January 6, 2019 in India ☀️ 19 °C

    Pushkar is one of the oldest cities in India dating back to at least the 1st century. Pushkar is mentioned in the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas. According to legends, Lord Brahma, believed to be the creator of the Universe dropped a lotus to the ground leading to the miraculous creation of a lake. He then decided to name the place after the flower, and thus the name, Pushkar, or lotus. The city of Pushkar is home to the only temple dedicated to Lord Brahma in the whole world. Hindus consider a journey to Pushkar to be the ultimate pilgrimage that must be undertaken to attain salvation.

    Our experience so far has been a bit different. While still a beautiful place, the lotus flower no longer grows in the sacred lake. Also, I made the mistake of accepting a flower from a guy outside of an ATM near the bathing steps. Next thing we knew we were being invited to a 'special sunset blessing'. Nancy and Augie just followed along thinking that I knew what I was doing. So, we descended the steps to the lake where three 'priests' split us up and seated us next to separate pools. They then commenced by asking us to repeat a mantra requesting prosperity for all of our family and dropping the flowers into the lake. About four fifths of the way through my guy started to mention donation amounts that would ensure that the blessing would take effect. "$100, $200, $500 whatever you feel is appropriate." Selling indulgences to fulfill a prosperity gospel. Effing great. Just up my alley as a 'failed priest'. I told the guy I make my donations elsewhere and handed him a 500 rupee note for his trouble saying this would cover it for our whole family, Nancy and Augie included. Package deal. Meanwhile, Nancy and Augie were being strong-armed for separate donations. I mean literally. There were guys grabbing at us as we made our way up the steps. One guy even told Augie that he'd call the police if he didn't fork over the voluntary donation. No wonder early Buddhism didn't thrive here if prosperity is the central message, must have freaked them out.

    This morning we've been seeking a bit more peaceful scene here in Pushkar. Wandering the colorful streets of this ancient market town and sitting in a café overlooking the lake. Fulfillment found.    Read more

  • India
    Augie biding his time at the Lakeside Café
    Augie biding his time at the Lakeside CaféHoly cow.Camels are one more element on the roadsNancy comparing school uniform colorsShot from the summitAugie has the big smile on departure

    Pushkar to Bikaner and Planning

    January 8, 2019 in India ☀️ 8 °C

    All in all we've had a relaxing time in Pushkar despite our run-in with the local clerical representatives. Augie was loathe to eat anything unfamiliar following his recent bouts with stomach issues. This led to finding a really nice café overlooking the lake and a pizza joint with good reviews. Pushkar is definitely on the Amereuro Hippie Seeker Circuit. The day before yesterday we sat at the café listening to a fifty year old self-made guru/psychedelic consultant/film maker, drone on about pretty much anything, everything and mainly himself to a rapt audience of the weak minded at the table next to us for several hours.

    We've been doing some gift shopping in order to send some items back to Santa Cruz with Augie rather than toting them around for the next month. Nancy's been doing the haggling. Been getting pretty good at it. Firmly stating "Unhand me Sir!" when the negotiations got heated and she was manhandled while preparing to take her business elsewhere. At this point I pulled the amount we were willing to pay out of my pocket and told the gentleman that he had a choice. I could hand it to him or to my wife waiting outside in the street. This seemed to work although he then proceeded to reprimand us for 'joking around' and threw the bag of goods on the table when he'd finished wrapping them up. Bollywood. Such a dramatic hustle here.

    Our friends Scott and Suzanne, from the South India Intrepid trip, are currently here in town. We met them yesterday for breakfast. Turns out they will overlap with Augie in Hong Kong for a few hours. Augie's going to bring them into the private lounge on his Priority Pass as guests during their wait. Pretty cool.

    In the afternoon we hiked up a nearby peak to a temple overlooking the city and surrounding countryside. Nancy befriended a ten year old girl from Jaipur on the way up. They compared school uniform colors, monkeys, and 'real' grandmothers (paternal) vs. the unreal (maternal). They also both found their brothers to be annoying at times at that age. This place is big on camel safaris and I took the shot of the camp from the summit with my telephoto.

    Planning. Augie left for his 48 hour marathon of travel this morning. He seemed very happy and ready to go. Visions of burritos and barbecue dancing in his head. We're sad to see him go. He helped us book some flights and cement in a loose schedule for the rest of our time here. For the next ten days we continue to loop around Rajasthan, then catch a flight to Varanasi. After four days in the Holy city we catch a flight to Amritsar, the holy city for the Sikhs. We'll then make our way across the foothills of the Himalayas and fly out of Chandigarh for Delhi before flying home in early February.

    Once again it could be interesting.    Read more