Sossusvlei

Saturday 7th April – To Sossusvlei

Today marked another very long day in the bus, most of it on unsealed and often heavily corrugated roads. Our destination was the famous sand dunes of the Sossusvlei. These are the largest such dunes in the world and their high content of iron gives them a distinctly red/brown colour.

Just before sunset we stopped near a large dune to get our first experience climbing such a challenging obstacle. For each step forward you feel as if you are sliding backwards two. The sand itself is much finer than beach sand, in fact it resembled the sand in an hourglass. When picked up in the hand it just slips away between your fingers. Although it was a strenuous climb the view from the top was well worth the effort. With the sun rapidly heading below the horizon the colours of the surrounding flat desert change rapidly before your eyes. It turned out to be another unforgettable experience.

The day had also given us our best wildlife sightings of the trip so far. Among the animals we had seen were springbok, zebras, ostriches, eagles and many, many more.

After dinner we learned that the next day would begin at 4.15 am! Anyone who was under the impression that this trip was going to be a doddle would have been sadly mistaken. This news was a challenge to those who liked the luxury of sleep, but we were assured that the lack of rest would be compensated by one of the absolute highlights of the entire adventure. We staggered off to bed, exhausted but also excited at what the following day would bring.

Sunday 8th April – Easter Sunday and Sunrise Over the Sossusvlei
Saturday evening was bright and clear but quite cold. Once again the full moon shone over our campsite like a second sun. At 4.15am we were up and packing for the day’s activities. By 5 am we left the camp and drove about 45 km to the “dune 45”, so called because it is situated at the 45 km point on the road from Sesriem.
The government of Namibia has also given permission for tourists to climb this dune. Its size and location make it a popular spot to watch the sunrise in one of the world’s truly remarkable natural wonders.

We arrived at the dune just as the eastern skies were beginning to brighten and started to make our way along the dune’s ridge line. With the fine sand and the steep slope, it was hard going with each footstep sinking deeply into the sand. I decided to stop at point a little away from the main group so that I could watch the sunrise in quiet and solitude, knowing full well that this would be the only time that I would privileged to witness this event.

Far below me the colours gradually seeped into the flatlands and I could begin to make out grazing springboks and ostriches enjoying the cool stillness of the pre dawn. Occasions liek this are more than just a tourist attraction, in a very real sense they can be a sort of spiritual journey – flooding your soul with a sense of wonder, peace and wellbeing.

After the sun had risen I resumed the climb to the very top of the dune and joined some of the others from our group. It was then that we decided it would be fun to run down the steep side of the dune, all the way to the bottom. And we were right – it really was FUN!

Down we ran, hooping and hollering with childish delight at the sheer exhilaration of the experience. The descent was combination of leaps, slides and hops and I noticed that each person adopted their own unique style of locomotion.

We then made our way back to the bus where Richard was waiting for us with breakfast. After breakfast we drove a short distance to a remote location for a 5 km desert walk. In the middle of the day temperatures here can easily soar to over 50C so I was glad the sun was still relatively low in the sky. With hats and sunscreen for protection we headed off with Tickey leading the way and pointing out numerous examples of desert adaptation. The ground underfoot was white on the surface but a deep red brown underneath wherever the thin surface crust was disturbed. For some distance we were followed by a curious ostrich.

After about 2 hours we reached a flat salt pan known as the Deadvlei. This pan was once filled with water but has now dried out to leave a white flat expanse, dotted with the preserved remains of long dead trees (some over 500 years old). It was an eerie place and by that time we were all getting far too hot and dry to stay for long.

We made our way back to a 4x4 parking area and caught a ride on a specially adapted 4WD vehicle for a rough and exciting drive back to our bus. An hour later we were back at our campsite. Tickey broke the news to us that in the evening we would be having dinner in one of the finest resorts in Namibia – The Sossusvlei Lodge. That was a pleasant surprise but at the time we did not know exactly what to expect.

After breaking camp, we loaded the bus and drove a short distance to the Lodge to make our dinner reservations. It soon became evident why is costs over $US400 a night for a room here. That was way out of our budget, but we got another pleasant surprise when we were driven to the Sossusvlei Lodge Camp Ground. This was no ordinary campground as it consisted of a neat row of permanent tented lodges, each with its own ensuite toilet and bathroom, kitchenette and outside table with a view out to the desert and the distant mountains. Now that is the sort of camping that I could easily get used to. All in all it was a camping heaven.

Bob and I sat at our outside table and watched the springboks grazing lazily in the late afternoon sunshine. I was also able to utilise the hot water and large sink to catch up with my laundry, knowing the warm desert wind would ensure that it would dry quickly. I am sure that all our team will look back on this location as another of the high points of the trip.

At 6.30 pm I donned my finest shorts and sandals and climbed back on the bus for the short drive back to the Lodge for our desert dinner. By this time the sun had set, and the moon was just beginning to rise in the east. The atmosphere at the dinner certainly lived up to the price tag. The tables were all elegantly dressed in an impressive array of silverware and adorned with dozens of candles twinkling in the African night.

The meal itself was served buffet style with dozens of options available for the adventurous eater. For the main course we could choose from a selection of a dozen or so game meats (anything from warthog to ostrich) and then have it barbecued to your satisfaction while you watched. I chose impala although I don’t think I’ve ever seen one. It turned out to be lean and tender although I did feel rather guilty for eating it.

I thought that the only thing lacking for this magnificent banquet was some live entertainment. It would have been a great opportunity to feature some African music and dancers but apparently they had never thought of it.Weiterlesen