Climbing Spitzkoppe

Wednesday 11th April – To Spitzkoppe

Within a kilometre of leaving Swakopmund we were back in the desert. Without the moderating effect of the ocean the temperature quickly soars, and it is easy to see why the region just north of here is referred to as the “Skeleton Coast”.
This country can be wild and unforgiving. The only difference between life and death is access to drinking water. I wondered where all the water to maintain Swakopmund’s green gardens comes from and was told that it is piped in from underground aquifers many kilometres from the city, but there are also plans to build a desalination plant.

During the day we travelled many kilometres over unsealed and badly corrugated roads until we finally gained our first views of Spitzkoppe. This is a stark granite outcrop, dramatically soaring some 1700 m above sea level. The surrounding desert was dotted with numerous huge termite mounds and small scraps of vegetation.

With the sun rapidly setting we reached our campsite and rapidly set up the tents. Unlike previous sites, this site really was a rough affair but the incredible surroundings made up for the lack of facilities. We were introduced to our guide and set off on a brisk walk to the top of one of the rocky outcrops. The climb was steep and achieved with the aid of a thick chain anchored to the rock face by steel posts every 5 metres or so.

At the top there are some examples of rock paintings, some dating back thousands of years. We then climbed further up to a large cave in the side of the rocks while our guide danced and sang for us in some of the local Damara language. With the sun now rapidly disappearing behind the rock we watched spellbound as he clicked and danced, all the while precariously located on an elevated rock which he referred to as his “stage”. In the tropics darkness falls swiftly and soon I became a little concerned at the prospect of climbing down the rock face and finding our way back to the camp in the dark.

Fortunately we all made it down without accident but the walk was something of a struggle. We had been warned about the venomous snakes in this region and I certainly did not want to step on one as I stumbled along. In spite of the darkness, our guide seemed to know exactly where he was going and made sure that we all got back to camp safely. By that time it was pitch dark.

After dinner we were entertained by six local singers who sang some beautiful songs to us. It was especially touching when they sang the Namibian National Anthem and asked us to stand as a mark of respect. It was very evident that the people here share a genuine affection for their young nation. It was a fantastic end to a very memorable day.Read more