The World on Two Wheels

2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Eryuan
9 kwietnia 2006, Chiny
Just when we thought the hardest challenges were behind us, we were given one of our hardest days riding. After a gentle start to the day passing small
towns we started our Challenge of 11 km grinding up and over a long steep winding mountain road covered in terraced paddy fields resembling giant staircases.
Our burning quads were rewarded with a good rest and an inspiring panorama at the top.

There was an exhilarating down hill on the other side as we enter the mouth of the valley that leads to Dali!

We ended the day in Er Yuan where we had the chance to soothe our leg
muscles in its famous hot springs.

Cycling 70 km Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Jian Chuan
8 kwietnia 2006, Chiny
Another memorable day that took us into the heart of rural Yunnan as we rode
along the 'Old Tibet' road past tranquil scenes of mud brick villages, bamboo groves, rivers and paddy fields. After the initial leg warm-up 10-km climb, the rest of the day was "flat" enjoyable riding through rural scenery.

We sensed a feeling of timelessness as the way of life here has remained
unchanged for centuries. Cycling through the numerous day markets where villagers from the local area come to buy, sell and socialise provided plenty of opportunities for interaction with the colourfully dressed minority groups of the Yi, Naxi, Bai and Ben.

Cycling 60 km Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Shigu, Yunnan
7 kwietnia 2006, Chiny
Today we had a pretty ride out of the gorge, winding back along the Yangtze river through remote towns, road side villages and terraced paddy fields. We followed the river to what is known as the 'first bend' of the Yangtze since leaving Tibet.
This is a popular spot for local women to sell fruit and other local produce. On the bank of the river there is a memorial hall commemorating the famous Long March.

Today's ride was a mixture of long patches of flat road, some spiraling hills and nice descents.

Overnight is at the ancient town of Shigu, where the river was crossed in 1936 by the People's Army led by Mao Zedong. It is also believed that Khublai Khan, the
grandson of Genghis Khan, crossed here when Mongolia was the largest empire in the world.

Cycling 75 km Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Tiger Leaping Gorge Free Day
6 kwietnia 2006, Chiny
To recover from our efforts of yesterday, we were rewarded with a free day in the gorge. It was a fantastic opportunity to explore the gorge on two feet, also to relax at Sean's Guesthouse and enjoy the unbelievable views across the gorge to the opposite cliffs. They were almost 4000 metres high and close to vertical. Way below us was the famous Yangtze River, roaring its way through the narrow gorge. Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Cycle to Tiger leaping Gorge
5 kwietnia 2006, Chiny
Few rides can match the magnificent scenery and sense of adventure when cycling through the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge of the Yangtze River, a spectacular mountain area. This is one of the deepest and most dramatic gorges in the world, rising 3900m from the river to the snow capped peaks. (Twice the height of the Grand Canyon!).

We start the day with a huge climb along cliff hugging roads with dramatic drops and, following a descent to match, headed into the valley floor of the Hei Shui River. A second and more difficult climb due to cobblestones brought us to Mao Niu Ping and a well deserved coffee break.

A final short climb and we reached our highest point of the trip, 3300m. Here we took a well-deserved rest and looked down at the tiny Naxi villages nested in the hillside. We then braced ourselves for a spectacular 30km downhill descent on rocky roads to Daju.

From here we hiked down to the river, crossed in a small ancient ferry (with the bikes) and then a steep climb out of the gorge for 2km. We then rode the remaining 10km into the gorge along the spectacular road that has been cut out of the steep cliffs. As we cycled alongside the Yangtze we were amazed by the height of the canyon walls towering above us.

Our efforts were rewarded when we reached the narrowest part (20 metres) of the gorge that takes its name from the myth of a tiger escaping its hunters by leaping across this gap.

We finally stopped at a small cluster of houses (Walnut Grove) half way up the gorge for an overnight stay in a guesthouse. A warm top was needed as the steep gorge hides the sun after 3.00pm.

It had been an exhausting 70 km ride and 2 km hike. Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Cycle to Bai Shui He
4 kwietnia 2006, Chiny
A varied and spectacular days riding as we took back roads out of Lijiang past the
ancient villages of Su He and Baisha, famous for their 15th century Buddhist fresco paintings which depict scenes of village life.

During the day we rode along a mixture of sealed roads and packed dirt paths that took us past an intricate terraced landscape and unusual buildings such as the Yu Feng temple, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery.

We started off with quiet roads and moderate inclines and built up to two climbs before lunch, neither long but the second was on cobblestones. Soon
after we stopped for lunch at the small but pretty Jade Lade.

We continued on a few kilometres of rough dirt track before we were back onto tarmac and a welcome descent to get ready for our last but longest ascent for the day. It was seven kilometres up but the road was good, and the view is spectacular. We then had our last descent down to the valley of Bai Shui He and our home for the night, a quiet location with awesome views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and renowned for its crystal blue waters.

Cycle 60 km Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
LiJiang - Cycle to Lashi Lake
3 kwietnia 2006, Chiny ⋅ 12 °C
Today was our first day’s ride. A "gentle introduction" to warm those leg muscles up as we cycle around the beautiful Lashi Lake. It was supposed to be flat, but that turned out to be a lie. This lake is found at an elevation of 2500m and
is home to tens of thousands of migratory birds such as the black necked crane.

We passed through small Naxi villages and experienced the traditional rural
lifestyle of this intriguing ethnic minority. The cycling provided an escape into
Old China with a step back in time as we ride under the shadow of the Yulong
Mountains, the southern most section of Himalayas.

Today also included a few sections of off road cycling, appreciated by those who enjoy getting off the sealed paths.

Cycle 40 km Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Arrive Li Jiang
2 kwietnia 2006, Chiny
This morning we caught a domestic flight from Kunming to Li Jiang. We were transported to our lovely traditional Chinese hotel. After lunch walked to the old part of the town to explore the labyrinth of tiny streets and canals.

The UNESCO World Cultural Heritage town of Lijiang is situated at 2,440m above sea level. The old town of Lijiang is home to the fascinating Naxi people, descendants from Tibetan nomads. Women in the Naxi community play a strong role in the family and in business. The traditional blue clothes of the Naxi are still worn by many today.

This was an enchanting place to explore the narrow cobbled streets, ancient bridges and marvel at the traditional curved roofs of the wooden houses. The afternoon was spent on a walking tour through some of the old neighbourhoods visiting the Museum of Naxi culture, and the Black Dragon Pool with stunning views of the jagged snow capped Jade Dragon Snow Mountains (5596m high at the southern edge of the Tibetan Plateau).

In the evening we walked back to the nearby old city where we had dinner, then engaged with the locals in a series of singing challenges. We didn't really understand what was going on, but it certainly was a lot of fun. Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Kunming Free Day
1 kwietnia 2006, Chiny ⋅ 17 °C
When I arrived at Kunming Airport, I started to chat with a young local girl who happened to speak quite reasonable English. I asked her, if there was only one thing in Kunming that we should see, what would it be ? Her answer was "Western Mountain". I had no idea what that was, but I decided that we should check it out for ourselves.

On our free day in Kunming we found ourselves squashed in our minibus and weaving through the streets to Western Mountain. We certainly were not disappointed with what we found there. The whole complex is carved into an almost vertical cliff face, offering panoramic views down to the city. From time to time the path emerged onto tiny viewing platforms, precariously situated hundreds of metres above the valley floor.

It turned into a magical day. Tomorrow we head out of Kunming and to the town of LiJiang, the start of our cycling. Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Kunming Arrival
31 marca 2006, Chiny ⋅ 19 °C
We were met at the Kunming Airport by Naomi Skinner from Bike Asia, and then transported to our hotel in the centre of the city. It had been a long day.

Kunming is a surprisingly modern and pleasant city and has plenty of interesting historical sights such as the Tanhua temple, the Eastern and Western pagodas and the Incantation Pillar. We had a walk through the back streets of the old quarter with its family run traditional shops selling anassortment of weird and exotic paraphernalia. Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
Goodbye Melbourne
31 marca 2006, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
We departed Australia for Bangkok at 0.20 am, arriving at approximately 600 am local time. We then caught a connecting flight to Kunming, landing at 2 pm local time. Our first overseas cycling adventure had finally begun. Czytaj więcej
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2006 Great China Ride The World on Two Wheels
How Did it all Start ?
15 marca 2006, Australia ⋅ 🌧 16 °C
Like all of life’s true adventures this one began unexpectedly. About eight months ago I was sitting in my office plowing through the daily deluge of unsolicited e-mails. As I was working down the list with my finger regularly tapping the DELETE key, I happened to notice one unfamiliar message from a sender with the somewhat whimsical name of Grasshopper Adventures. For some reason I withdrew my deadly deletion finger and decided to read the message. I discovered a list of Asian cycling adventures which undoubtedly struck a chord somewhere in my imagination.

I had been harboring a wish to take my Ghost Rider cycling companions on an overseas adventure, but my initial efforts had met with limited interest. As I read the e-mail further, I was particularly attracted to a tour to the rather exotic soundly Tiger Leaping Gorge in the Chinese Himalaya. Although I had never even heard of Tiger Leaping Gorge, I quickly knew that this would be a ride that I would like to do – after all it combined the two great loves of my life (cycling and high mountains).

Within a couple of days, I had learnt a lot more about Tiger Leaping Gorge, including the fact that it is one of the narrowest and deepest gorges on earth. I started to imagine a group of our cyclists riding through the gorge wearing their famous yellow jerseys. Although I was excited about the prospect, I still had the rather daunting proposition of getting at least 10 others to share the adventure with me.

The first step was to notify the members of the Ghost Riders via our regular e-mail newsletter. Almost immediately I had the first keen acceptance, John Green was just as excited as I was and asked me to put his name on the list. Over the next couple of months, the number gradually grew as new participants decided that they would also like to be a part of our Tiger Leaping Gorge Adventure. For some the decision was easy, but for others it was much more difficult. The hardest part of any such challenge is not the physical aspect, but the fear of the unknown, of not knowing exactly what to expect once we arrived in China.

Since the initial dream had been mine, I also carried the added fear that I could be leading the other participants into a disaster of some magnitude. With 4 months to go we exceeded our target group size with 13 riders signed up and ready to go. A new chapter in all of our lives was about to begin.

At the time I did not realise that this adventure would change my life forever.

Now that the adventure is over, you can read about some of our experiences in the pages that follow. Czytaj więcej
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