2014 Scandinavia and UK

Juni - Juli 2014
In 2014 I took a group of 23 cyclists to ride in Finland and Sweden. I then took a smaller of 10 to complete the famous Coast to Coast ride across England. The original journal of this ride was lost some years ago, but some details were saved. Baca selengkapnya
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  • 35,1kkilometer
  • 33,7kkilometer
  • Hari 22

    The Land of Derwent Pencils

    2 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ 18 °C

    Yesterday was a “rest” day in Ulverstone, Cumbria, UK. This gave me a great opportunity to explore the town and to also climb to the top of Hoad Hill to gain a magnificent panoramic view around the whole district. At the top of the hill there is an impressive structure that looks like a huge lighthouse, but in fact it is a memorial to the region’s favourite son – Sir John Barrow.

    Barrow was a local lad who rose from humble beginnings to become a distinguished mathematician, linguist, explorer and scientist. He was the Second Secretary to the Admiralty for over 40 years! Over a hundred years ago this impressive monument was erected to make sure that his achievements would not soon be forgotten.

    Ulverstone is also the birthplace of Stan Laurel (of Laurel and Hardy fame). There are a number of Laurel and Hardy signs throughout the town as well as the well known Laurel and Hardy Museum. This is a rather quaint collection of memorabilia housed in an old picture theatre. A few of us watched an old Laurel and Hardy classic and were soon rolling in laughter. The secret of their comic genius was in being able to work elaborate skits with the most basic of props as well as their comic timing and facial expressions.

    Today we collected our bikes and rode to the edge of the sea. Since we were about to complete the Cumbria cycle route as well as the Cyclist’s Coast to Coast Ride it was only fitting that our start point should be the sea on the western coast of the UK.

    We had not ridden far (in fact about 500 metres) before we encountered the first of many hills. This soon reminded us that the riding here would be very different from the flatter country of Scandinavia. The Lakes District of Cumbria is studded with hills large and small and this region is home to many distinguished mountaineers. In fact the entire day’s ride was a succession of steep uphills and downhills, some up to 25% gradient.

    It also didn’t take long for my bike to develop an annoying clicking sound which accompanied me for the rest of the day (and I suspect I will have it for company for the rest of the ride). Rick reminded me of the great advantage of wearing cleats and explained how he had bought his own pedals and cleats from Australia for the ride. A few moments later we all heard a skid and a shout and noticed that Rick had fallen heavily in the loose stones – apparently caused by not being able to get his foot from the cleat quickly enough. I think I will stick to the normal pedals after all.

    Although the riding was hard, the scenery was spectacular – narrow lanes, dry stone fences, small farmlets and of course lakes. For some kilometres the road skirted beautiful Coniston Water before climbing very steeply over our final mountain for the day and then descending to our destination of Grasmere. `
    Grasmere is a very popular tourist centre with numerous restaurants and hotels.

    We arrived to find dozens of tourists climbing out of huge buses to wander the town and take pictures of the surrounding mountains.
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  • Hari 23

    Through the Lakes District to Keswick

    3 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ 17 °C

    Today our route took us around Thirlmere, once again on quiet roads, but later
    with some busier sections heading into Keswick. We had good views of Helvellyn 950m from across the lake. Thirlmere is certainly a beauty spot and it is a great place to view birdlife, especially wild fowl.

    Thirlmere was amalgamated from two lakes into a reservoir in 1889 and is three miles long and over 150 feet deep in places. Swimming in it is not allowed because they say it is too cold!

    Our accommodation was in Keswick: the town that nestles beneath giant Skiddaw by the shores of Derwent water, we stayed at a 2 star hotel set right on the old market square close to all the towns amenities
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  • Hari 24

    Joining the Classic C2C Route

    4 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I am sitting in my room at the Edenhall Country Inn looking out the window at some beautiful stone cottages surrounded by acres of green grass and separated by beautiful drystone fences. Yesterday we completed the Cumbria Way Cycle route by cycling from Grasmere to Keswick. The weather was perfect for cycling and we even had the rare assist of a steady tail wind for a substantial part of the day’s ride.

    The route took us through some magnificent countryside and it was easy to see why the Lakes District is so popular with walkers from all over Britain who come here to walk the ancient walking paths. The nicest cycling came when we cycled alongside beautiful Lake Thirlmere. For several kilometres the road followed the coastline and we stopped in the sunshine to just soak up the beauty that was all around us. On the other side of the lake the terrain rose steeply to Mount Hevellyn, one of the highest mountains in Britain.

    Our destination yesterday was Keswick, quite a large town with an impressive park. Situated on the Derwent River, this town became famous for its very popular range of Derwent colouring pencils. When I was at school in the 1950s any child that appeared at school with a box of 72 Derwents clearly showed the rest of us that their parents were indeed rich.

    Today we woke to grey skies and steady rain. This was a reminder that it is very hard to ride in this part of the country, even in summer, without encountering cold and wet conditions. We had no choice but to don our wet weather gear and pedal off from the hotel. Within minutes the steady rain increased to a downpour but surprisingly it did little to dampen our spirits. We were just so grateful to have the opportunity and the good health to do this iconic ride that the rain only added another dimension to our experiences.

    The first few kilometres of the route took us along an unused train track which has now been converted to a rail trail. This was also our first encounter with the famous Coast to Coast cycle route, since we have now left the Cumbria Way Cycle route and joined the C2C route to Sunderland. Over the next four days this route will take us over a succession of mountain ranges until it eventually reaches the East Coast of Britain.

    Although the weather was cold it did not take us long to warm up. It is impossible to stay cold when you are pedalling furiously to climb each new uphill path. In this part of the country we have learned that there is no flat land – you are always either going uphill or downhill and it always feels as if the uphills outnumber the downhills.

    Fortunately the rain had cleared by around lunchtime and this was also the time that we reached the small town of Greystoke, famous as the location for the Tarzan stories. Greystoke Castle is certainly an impressive building but it is now privately owned and out of bounds to the general public.

    After lunch at Annie Swarbick’s Cycle Cafe we continued on our way to our destination of Edenhall. The path undulated regularly and “blessed” us with one enormous climb on the outskirts of Penrith. By that time our legs were getting tired but we all managed to make the summit and then enjoy the fast downhill on the other side.

    Tomorrow will be the hardest day of our entire trip with a succession of 4 mountain ranges to cross and a route that will take us to the highest village in the entire UK. I will let you know how we fare, but for now I am heading for an early night.
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  • Hari 25

    Hills and More Hills

    5 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We have now completed the hardest day of the entire ride, having crossed the Pennines. We had a succession of 4 climbs to comp!ete in quick succession, some of the gradients were incredible - probably well over 20%. The roads here make now allowance for common sense and most often just head straight or down the sides of mountains. Fortunately everyone made it here, tired but proud of their achievement. We spent the night in the old schoolhouse at Allenheads.
    This is claimed to be the highest village in the UK and the views are amazing.

    One of the photos shows the view from our window.

    This morning we still have two hard climbs to conquer before the road starts to head downhill again. Tomorrow will be the final day's riding into Sunderland to officially complete our Cumbria and Coast to Coast rides. Then our group will scatter to each make their own ways back to Australia. Paul and I will be spending some time in London before catching the Eurostar to Paris for a few days.

    It has been a fantastic trip with everything going according to plan so far.
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  • Hari 26

    What Goes Up Must Come Down

    6 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    I am currently sitting in my room at the Moorings Hotel in Chester Le Street, County Durham, UK. By this time tomorrow our UK ride will be completed but we will all be returning to Australia with a huge store of memories and impressions of the amazing experiences we have had.

    The last two days have been the hardest of our entire trip and really stretched some of our riders mentally and physically. We all knew that riding across the UK from West to East would take us across the line of mountains that constitutes the backbone of the country. What we did not anticipate was that the roadmakers would run their roads directly into the face of a mountain, without making any deviation to reduce the gradient. This provides the aspiring cyclist with a series of gut busting climbs at gradients far higher than any you are likely to meet in Australia.

    Our ride yesterday took us across 4 of these high and desolate mountain passes. Even with our lowest granny gears engaged the climbing is still tough, especially for those of us who aren’t built like toothpicks. It was hard going and certainly harder than the “moderate” rating this trip had been given. In fact for some it was the hardest riding they had ever done.

    As we got higher and higher we entered a desolate realm of treeless barren hills that reminded me of the images we see of riders approaching the tops of the climbs in the Tour de France. Speaking of the Tour de France, it actually started yesterday, not all that far away from where we were riding. Quite a few of the locals apparently took the opportunity to ride down to watch the Tour riders pass by and it certainly got a lot coverage in the local media.

    As we crossed over each successive summit we then enjoyed a period of wonderful downhill riding, but the enjoyment is always tinged with the fearful knowledge that every metre of vertical height we dropped would soon have to be clawed back with blood, sweat and tears when we reached the next climb.

    Late in the afternoon our exhausted riders finally reached Allenheads and were dismayed to find that our accommodation was in one of the highest buildings in the village. No wonder that most of us pushed our bikes up the steep and winding driveway to the Old School House, which was to be our home for the evening. This was a no frills B &B that necessitated most of us to sleep in small dormitories. Fortunately we were all so tired that none of us could be kept awake by even the loudest of snoring and flatulence.

    Although yesterday was always going to be the toughest single day of the ride we also knew that today was also going to be challenging as we still had two significant gut busters of climbs to complete before we could finally start the long descents into County Durham.

    The first ascent began as soon as we left Allenheads and provided a real challenge for cold legs. We climbed into a barren but beautiful series of rolling moors. This region was once home to numerous lead mines and the ruins of numerous old mines and small, now uninhabited, villages were passed as we rode along the high roads. After morning tea at Stanhope we immediately began the final huge climb of the ride. This was tough but we were buoyed by the knowledge that the really hard work was nearly over.

    Finally we turned from the main road and joined the “Waskerley Trail”. This provided us with some of the most delightful cycling I have ever done anywhere in the world. It began high in the moors and initially followed the path of a disused railway line. As we rode on for kilometre after kilometre the terrain gradually changed to shady tree lined paths interspersed with towering bridges, tunnels and viaducts. This really is cyclists’s heaven and I am surprised that it is not publicised more as I am sure that many would travel from around the world to enjoy the experience.

    The bike path took us almost of the way to our destination at Chester le Street, but of course our hotel had to be perched on the highest mountain in the district, necessitating one final climb for the long day.

    Tomorrow we have a relatively short ride to Sunderland where we will reach the east coast of the UK and the tradition is that we will have to dip our front wheels in the water, just as we dipped our rear wheels in the water at Ulverston. That will mark the end of our ride and the separation of our riders as they each make their own ways back to Australia. I am sure that this will be a ride that none of us will ever forget.
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  • Hari 27

    Reaching the East Coast

    7 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Today we completed the final 21 km of the ride from Coast to Coast. It was easy riding, largely downhill for much of the way. It was a great way to celebrate the hard riding we had done over the first four days.

    Tomorrow marks the official end of this cycling adventure. I will be travelling to London with Paul Coutts. We will be spending a few days there, before catching the Eurostar to Paris. What a marvelous place to complete another amazing trip.
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  • Hari 28

    On the Train to London

    8 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Yesterday we finished our ride across the UK. The final tally for the group was zero punctures, zero crashes and zero breakdowns. We even had great weather for almost the entire ride, with only a couple of hours of drizzle near Keswick. The last couple of days in particular were some of the most enjoyable riding I have done anywhere in the world as we followed a beautiful bike path all the way from Stanmore to the Sunderland coast.

    After a final dinner last night to celebrate our achievement our group has now dispersed. Paul, Rick and I are currently on the Grand Central Railway from Sunderland to London. We have lashed out on First Class tickets and are enjoying life in the lavish lane as we watch the English countryside flash by outside the windows. The only thing to disturb the peace and quiet is a lady who has not stopped talking for the past 90 minutes - certainly a feat of epic proportions. Perhaps her tongue will soon seize up and we might get some welcome respite.

    This afternoon we arrive in London where we will be spending four days (with no bikes) before heading under the Channel to Paris. After a few days there we fly back to Helsinki, then to Hong Kong and finally back to Melbourne. Another amazing adventure to savour for a long time.
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  • Hari 30

    Time in London

    10 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Not so long ago we had 24 Ghostriders in Europe, now after the end of our Scandinavia and UK rides, there are only two of us left. On Tuesday Paul, Rick and I caught the train from Sunderland to London. Since it was near the end of our trip we decided to lash out and upgrade to a first class ticket. At least that guaranteed us nice comfortable seats and a cup of tea and biscuits along the way. Unfortunately it did not ensure quietness as there was a lady in the carriage who seemed determined to share her entire life story with everyone else in the carriage. This epic (but incredibly boring) epic lasted virtually the entire 4 hour journey to London. It would have been bad enough if she had been blessed with a nice speaking voice, but to make matters even worse, she must have had Minnie Mouse as her voice teacher. For the first hour or so I thought I was the only one who was being annoyed by her non stop babble, but it became evident that she was an embarrassment to the locals as well. On our arrival in London quite a few raised eyebrows and timid smiles clearly indicated that there were many others who also wished our talkative companion could have travelled on another train.

    Paul and I bade farewell to Rick and then made our way by taxi to our hotel near Hyde Park. I had stayed in this area before and remembered it as a lovely region of stately homes in easy walking distance to Hyde and Kensington Parks and with two Metro Stations close at hand. The first glimpse of the Hyde Park Hotel was certainly quite impressive. With its lovely white exterior and polished brass name plate I thought they we would be in for a first class experience that belied its budget price. When the receptionist directed us to the basement my hopes started to evaporate, and when we were shown to our diminutive room I was once again reminded of the old adage that you get what you pay for. Fortunately the sheets were clean and the TV worked. So what if you had to come outside in the hallway if you wanted enough room to blow your nose ?

    Paul and I spent the remainder of the day wandering Hyde Park and marvelling at the row of impressive embassies along the park border. The one that was easily the most imposing was the Russian Embassy. I guess that is where Putin stays when he wants a holiday in the UK. Even the poverty stricken tiny nation of Nepal had an impressive mansion as its London home leaving me wondering why on earth such a little nation needed such a big presence here.

    The following morning in London dawned bright and clear and Paul and I decided to walk through Hyde Park to James’ Park and see what the Queen was doing in her big palace. We arrived just in time for the changing of the guard and were entertained by the rows of brightly uniformed soldiers marching and then standing still (but mostly standing still). It looked like half of Europe had also turned up to watch the spectacle so we did not stay long and continued our walk to Westminster Abbey and the Thames. That is where I left to have a look at Winston Churchill’s underground war headquarters. This is certainly worth a visit for anyone interested in the Second World War and Churchill in particular.
    I spent some time examining the hundreds of exhibits, including an example of the famous German Enigma Encoding machine. One of the exhibits was a vintage typewriter and I was bemused to see a row of curious children lined up to see how this amazing piece of technology actually worked. They could not wait to type away and see the letters immediately appear on the paper ! Perhaps technology has turned the full circle after all.

    Back outside in the air again I could see that the crowds were building everywhere around London. I guess this is the peak of the tourist season after all and made me appreciate all the more, the time we had spent on the quiet back roads of Finland, Sweden and The UK. Roads where we never saw another person and we could just enjoy the peace and quiet. I guess I will never be just another passenger on a tourist bus being whizzed around on the “all of Europe in 8 days” bus tour. I was very glad to escape the crowds and make my way back to the peace and quiet of the Hyde Park gardens. I took the time to talk to a few of the friendly grey squirrels that were happily playing under the trees, before walking back to the confines of my cell at the hotel.

    It was a nice feeling knowing that, after all the complex arrangements for our series of European ride, in the final analysis, all had actually gone according to plan. No one had been injured, we managed to find our way to our hotel each night and everyone had become a little fitter due to the daily exertion. I will be able to return to Australia with yet another store of wonderful memories and even more convinced of the value of touring by bicycle.

    Next year we will be back in Europe to complete rides in Italy and France. It is already evident that we will actually be taking two groups to France because of the number of applicants. It is still not too late to be a part of these trips but you will need to move quickly.

    Unfortunately the images from this part of the trip have been lost.
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  • Hari 32

    Last Day in London

    12 Juli 2014, Inggris ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Hyde Park, London

    As this was to be our final full day in London, Paul and I decided to just wander the streets and see what we found. We began by walking across the now familiar Kensington and Hyde Parks towards the palace. Since we now felt that we were on first name terms with her majesty, we would not have been surprised if she had invited us in for tea and scones. In spite of our expectations, there was no sign of the Queen but we did see some of her coachmen out road testing a new carriage with about 8 well groomed horses. I guessed that, if the horses are not run regularly, they will have trouble starting them when the next ceremonial occasion demands a full equine display.

    We watched the horses disappear into the Queen’s front yard and then continued on our way towards Piccadilly Circus. Of course anyone looking for a “circus” at Piccadilly would be sadly mistaken. The name has nothing to do with a circus in the Barnum and Baileys tradition, but simply means a central point where a number of roads meet together. There are a number of these “circuses” throughout London, each one has become a popular meeting point for wandering tourists and a staging point for the dozens of “hop on hop off” tourist buses.

    Our journey towards Piccadilly Circus took us along the famous Piccadilly Street and past such establishments as the Ritz Hotel. This street is also home to a large number of fancy outlets selling unpriced goods to the wealthy. We stepped inside a couple of these but our appearance in shorts and Tshirts probably quickly gave the well dressed attendants little optimism there we were there to buy anything. These shops reek of the smell of polished veneer, leather, Harris Tweed and old money. It is here you can come to buy a 200 pound shaving brush, a pair of 700 pound shoes or even a 61,000 pound watch!

    As I looked around at the array of pompous items I could not help but think that they were just as tacky as the gaudy collections of “I Love London” T shirts and plastic models of the Tower of London that you find in the numerous souvenir shops. When it was all said and done, it was all just stuff. I suspect that both types of stuff were equally unnecessary and I suspect that the eager tourists buying the cheap souvenirs would probably get just as much enjoyment as the foppish snobs buying the leather hunting boots. It made me sad to think that some people actually measured their personal value by how much they spent on clothes and accessories. At least the cheap crappy souvenirs did not even pretend to increase the status of their purchasers.

    I wandered along Piccadilly and the adjacent streets, paid a visit to the Ripleys Believe it or Not Museum and then decided that it was time to move on. Although there are plenty of other tourist sights in London, I had lost my appetite for jostling with crowds of other visitors, flag toting tour guides and hordes of shouting schoolchildren. It was time to retreat to the relative solitude of the parks and spend time watching the squirrels and pigeons instead. Although they didn’t have a penny or a pound to their names they seemed to enjoy a very happy existence regardless.

    Early tomorrow Paul and I will catch the Eurostar to Paris for the next leg of our adventure.

    Sorry no pictures remain
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  • Hari 33

    Robbed in Paris

    13 Juli 2014, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Paul and I had always planned to finish our trip with a few days in London, followed by a few days in Paris. What better way to relax after the riding we had both done over the previous few weeks ?

    Although our time in London all went according to plan, things did not start so smoothly in Paris. After our 3 hour trip on the Eurostar Train from London, we emerged at the Gare du Nord, and looked for a metro link to get us to our hotel. It would have been simple if we had not both been dragging all our luggage with us and were not both tired. We were ripe victims to be robbed. And that is exactly what happened.

    When a metro appeared before our eyes, it seemed like too good an opportunity to miss. We dragged our cases and jumped in the open door. Our entry had not gone unnoticed by a group of young gypsies who were loitering in the train doorway. We pushed through the crowd and staggered to the first two available seats. I suppose I should have been worried when the young gypsies all jumped out the door, just before the train left the platform.

    It was only when I took the time to check the contents of my pockets, that I realised that my mobile phone was no longer there. In my haste to get on the train, I had stupidly left the phone vulnerable in my jacket pocket - a fatal mistake. My phone was obviously now in the hands of an opportunistic thief.

    I should have been angry, and I was - but mostly with myself for making such a rookie mistake. If only I had taken a couple of minutes to secure my personal items, it would not have happened. There was nothing I could do about in now, and I certainly was not going to let the incident spoil my time in Paris.

    Our four days in Paris coincided with the famous July 14th Bastille Day Celebrations and it was wonderful to see the residents of Paris in such a party mood. I would love to have some images of our time there, but unfortunately they were all lost in a hard drive failure. C'est la Vie, I guess.
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