• The World on Two Wheels
Jun – Jul 2014

2014 Scandinavia and UK

In 2014 I took a group of 23 cyclists to ride in Finland and Sweden. I then took a smaller of 10 to complete the famous Coast to Coast ride across England. The original journal of this ride was lost some years ago, but some details were saved. Read more
  • Trip start
    June 11, 2014
  • Free Day in Helsinki

    June 13, 2014 in Finland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Helsinki - Saturday

    With only 1 week to go till the longest day of the year it is no wonder why it is virtually daylight for 24 hours each day. It's a strange feeling walking the streets at 11 pm in bright daylight but we are slowly getting used to it. The weather today had cleared to a fine day with extended periods of sunshine and it was amazing just how much better the city looks when the sun is shining.

    Of course in the middle of winter the opposite is true when it is dark for about 22 hours of each day. The extensive harbours also freeze completely at that time of the year and the hundreds of privately owned small boats in the marinas must be moved to dry dock before they get crushed in the ice.

    Finland shares over 1000km of border with Russia and we are only300 km from St St Petersburg. Russia actually controlled Finland for over 100 years abnd you can still see some Russian influence in the Russian Orthodox Churches and austere architecture. In fact the Finns are famous for their good design and they do not augment their buildings with unecessary decoration. The harsh climate and the strict Lutheran heritage also combines to make the Finnish quite conservative and well behaved. Even the teenagers tend to be modestly dressed and quietly spoken. It is also worth noting that all Finns also speak Swedish and English. In fact English is virtually their first language.

    The streets are clean and well maintained and we have seen hardly any graffiti anywhere.

    Tomorrow 11 of our riders leave Helsinki to begin their rides. The rest of us will leave the following day. In the meantime I will be taking a group of 10 down to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. It is an 80 km ferry trip each way.
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  • Day Trip to Tallinn

    June 14, 2014 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Helsinki Finland

    Today we woke to a glorious day without a cloud in the sky. After the somewhat grey days that we have been having it was a real joy to see the weather so improved. After an early breakfast we caught one of the huge ocean going ferries for the 80 km crossing of the Baltic Sea to Tallinn, the capital city of Estonia.

    Each day a succession of these huge ferries (and I really mean HUGE) go back and forth between Helsinki and Tallinn. Each one carries thousands of passengers and a large number of cars and trucks.

    AT first glance you would wonder why so many people would be travelling back and forth between these two smallish cities. It is worth noting that the entire population of Estonia is only 1.3 million. It is hard to imagine how such small populations could justify such a huge investment of money and shipping resources.

    The answer to this puzzle is actually rather tragic. The reason why most Finns make the trip across the Baltic is because the price of liquor in Estonia is about 1/4 of the price in Finland. This results in huge numbers of Finns travelling across for the sole purpose of purchasing massive quantities of cheap liquor. They are not interested in tourism and when they arrive in Tallinn they go straight to the huge liquor warehouses to purchase pallet loads of booze.This is then loaded into car boots, trolleys, suitcases and anything else that can carry copious quantities of plonk. On the return trip back to Helsinki the entry ramps are clogged with these huge loads of booze ready to be transported back to Finland. Those who cannot wait to get home before getting drunk, hit the booze in Tallinn and then stagger back to the ferry to make the return trip in an alcoholic stupor.

    This really does give an insight into a dark side of the Finnish society. Although the people are generally quiet and conservative, the nation has a huge problem with excessive drinking and alcoholism. This is one of their biggest current problems and, after our trip to Tallinn, we could appreciate something of the damage that this dependence has done to the Finnish population.

    Apart from the shipping industry that runs on liquor, the time we spent in Tallinn was absolutely delightful. Unlike Helsinki, Tallinn has an extensive old city with a large number of beautiful medieval buildings. The cost of living is also much cheaper in Estonia so we were able to enjoy lunch and dinner at very low prices.English is widely spoken and the people treasure their freedom after the collapse of the soviet control. It is worth watching the fascinating documentary "The Singing Revolution" that documents the amazing series of events that led to a peaceful end to communism in this tiny country.

    We arrived back in Helsinki about 10.30 pm but the bright daylight made it seem more like 2.30 pm.We are not even at the longest day yet but we already have 24 hours of continuous daylight. While this might be a novelty in summer, I don't think the long hours of darkness each day would make the Finnish winter much fun. Apparently they have a big problem with depression and social melancholia during the winter months.

    Tomorrow we leave Helsinki and prepare to begin our bike ride.
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  • Transfer to Turku

    June 15, 2014 in Finland ⋅ 13 °C

    Turku, Finland - (only a few days till the longest day of the year - a time that is especially exciting for those that live so far north of the equator).

    This morning we walked the 2 km from our hotel in Helsinki to the impressive central Helsinki Railway station. Fortunately there is a walking/bike path which went almost directly from the hotel to the centre of town so we did not have to battle our suitcases through hordes of people and cars.

    The train was comfortable and modern and glided along at 160 kph on its way to Turku. The only thing I can't understand is why people who live in the coldest climates have their houses, buses, trains, etc heated to tropical temperatures. A couple of days ago we learned that there are 3 million saunas in Finland and I suspect that half of them might be disguised as train carriages. We looked for a way to open the triple glazed windows but they were sealed shut so we slowly sizzled for the entire 2 hour train ride to Turku.

    Turku is the original capital of Finland and has a longer history than Helsinki. Our hotel is near the city square, right in the middle of the town and only a short walk from where we will be picking up our bikes in the morning.

    I am now back in the hotel room where the sign says that the temperature cannot be set any lower than 22C (but presumably it can be set at any higher temperature that someone from Saudi Arabia might prefer). I tried to open the window but discovered that I would need a large brick to complete the operation. It looks like another bright and hot "night ahead". Actually it's now been a week since I have experienced darkness so I am finding it hard to remember what night time is really like.

    Tomorrow we collect the bikes and begin our ride. That's the real reason that we came this far from Australia and, although it has been pleasant to be doing the classical "tourist" thing, I think we would soon start to get bored to tears if we had to be inactive for much longer. It's time to start turning the pedals and get some adrenaline pumping !
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  • Cycling to Taivassalo

    June 16, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    This morning we finally got to start the bike ride we had come so far to experience. After leaving our hotel in Turku we walked a short distance to the bike shop that was to supply the bikes for our ride. The next 30 mins were spent adjusting and sorting the gear before it was finally time to get underway. The bikes supplied were the typical European bikes with upright stance and easy riding characteristics. Although they were not made for speed, they are the type of bikes that most Europeans love to ride.

    The region that we will be riding in Finland is called the Turku Archipelago (or as the Finns pronounce it – The Torrrku Archie Pelago). This is a beautiful region of thousands of islands, lakes and coastal inlets. The roads are quiet and the area is ideal for cycle touring.

    According to our instructions we had about 42 km to ride before we encountered our first of many ferry crossings. Since there was only ferry each day for this crossing, it was absolutely imperative that we did not miss it. I had already heard from Paul (the leader of Group 1) that they only just made it to the terminal in time so we were careful to watch our progress.

    Although we had been expecting a flattish ride we actually found that the ride was quite undulating with several quite steep climbs along the way. These would not normally have been too much of a challenge, however we also faced the extra challenge of a howling head wind that buffeted and fought us virtually every kilometre of the way. The temperature also plummeted to about 7 C reminding us that we are now even closer to the north pole even than we were in Helsinki. Even in the short summer the weather can be extremely variable this far north.

    Fortunately the cold did not evolve into rain, even though the black clouds hovering overhead did make me feel rather nervous. As the day wore on the clouds slowly dispersed and we were presented with rather luke warm sunshine instead. One thing that did not change all day was the fierce wind. At one point I stopped to add another layer of clothes and had to take off my riding gloves in order to remove my rain jacket. The wind immediately grabbed both of the gloves and threatened to send them hurtling over the side of the bridge we had stopped on. I dropped my bike and ran after them, just managing to save them from disappearing over the edge. At the same time Ken was running after several important sheets of notes that were blown from his grasp.

    In spite of the meteorological challenges we managed to reach the ferry terminal with almost two hours to spare so were able to sit down and enjoy a leisurely lunch before climbing onboard the waiting boat. Many of these ferry crossings are free but when you consider that this region of Finland had something like 30,000 islands it is the only way that people and goods can be carried between the scattered centres of population.

    While we were waiting for the ferry we also talked to the owner of the small cafe and he told us that they are only open for a few months each year and then everything is stored away for the winter. Every one who can leave the area leaves, and only a few diehards stay behind to endure the arctic freeze that envelopes the region for half the year. He also explained that most Finns are actually looking forward to global warming as it will make their lives a little bit more endurable.

    On the ferry we all crowded into a small passenger room and told jokes while we enjoyed the warmth. After about 45 mins we reached our destination and rode the remaining 12 km to our accommodation for the evening. This turned out to be a wonderful converted stone cow barn with walls at least 1 metre thick. The friendly proprietor supplied a delightful and delicious meal and soon after 12 tired cyclists staggered up to their rooms for an early night.
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  • Cycling to Korpoo

    June 17, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Turku Archipelago

    "In Which we See a Hawk at Mossala"

    This was always going to be one of the longest and hardest days of our time in Finland. With about 65 Km of cycling and no less than 6 ferry crossings to complete and coupled with the ever variable weather of the region we knew that we were in for a long day in and out of the saddle.

    By 8 am we had finished breakfast, packed our panniers and were underway under a leaden sky and single digit temperature. If we have learnt anything in the short time we have been here it is that this really is a harsh place to survive. Our proprietor of our last hotel explained that the entire "summer tourist season" lasts only until the end of July. Then he has to close the hotel and prepare for the long, bleak winter. Of course he doesn't stay here over winter, in fact almost no one does. Apparently there is a mass exodus of Finns to countries much closer to the equator that occurs every year. Only the most stoic and foolhardy are left to sit out the winter months in freezing darkness.

    We had not ridden very far before we realised that, although the wind was not actually in our faces, it was still no weather for brass monkeys. I stopped to add a few extra layers and make myself look even more like the proverbial Michelin man. Fortunately the threatening clouds held on to their load of rain and we were able to stay dry.

    The thing that makes this region so unique is the huge number of islands that fill all the waterways. Everywhere you look you see islands of all sizes scattered as if some carless giant had scattered them across the sea. This led to a discussion of how big one has to be before it could really be classed as "an island". By consensus we decided that it must have at least tree and that the tree must be at least 1 metre tall.

    By mid morning the early arctic chill was beginning to dissipate and a few patches of blue sky started to appear. Spirits started to soar as the temperature rose and soon we were riding in lovely sunshine.

    Our third ferry journey was a long one of about 45 mins and took us to the small settlement of Mossala. When we emerged from the boat it was almost 2 pm and we were all hungry and looking for a place to have lunch. We soon found a lovely little café that supplied a delicious lunch of soup, chips, mashed potatoes and salad. While we were enjoying this food a group of women from the next table came up and politely asked where we were from. When we told them we were from Australia they became very excited and started to share stories of friends in Australia. One produced her mobile phone and showed that it had the symbol of the Hawthorn Football Club on it. Could you believe that a Hawthorn supporter would be found in this faraway part of the world ?

    The afternoon became warmer and warmer as we island hopped our way through the archipelago. Sometimes we even had a tail wind to help us climb the frequent hills along the way.We had a substantial wait for the final ferry trip and had a delightful time enjoying the warm sunshine as we waited for it to arrive.

    Our final island was Korppoo and this is our home for the night. Our "hotel" is another converted cow barn - very small but with an amazing character. I am now sitting in my very small room at 9.30 pm and looking out the window at the bright sun and a vast sea of verdant green grass. How lucky are we to have had such a wonderful experience.
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  • Cycle and Ferry to Nauvo

    June 18, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Nauvo, Turku Archipelago, Finland

    It was just as well that today was scheduled as a relatively easy day as it was the first day that the skies opened and rained on us for the entire ride. You might think that this would have spoiled the day however everyone seemed really happy and the rain did very little to dent their enthusiasm.

    After leaving our hotel we decided that we would ride back in the reverse direction for several kilometres so that we could see a little more of the quaint little town of Korrpoo. We arrived just in time for morning tea and the start of the day's rain. This gave us a great opportunity to relax in a lovely seaside restaurant and watch the boats while we each enjoyed a magnificent cup of hot chocolate.

    Since the rain looked it was there to stay we ended up staying until lunch. It was only when it became obvious that the rain was not about to stop that we donned our wet gear and climbed on the bikes. Although the drizzle was continuous the strong winds of the past few days had passed and we were able to ride in very still conditions.

    With Jon Bate as our leader up the front of the peloton, the rest of the riders formed a close conga line behind as we cruised along at a comfortable speed. Once again we were reminded of just how beautiful a location this is.

    After a wet but fun ride we arrived at our next hotel by mid afternoon and discovered that it was the best hotel we had stayed in for the entire trip. Although small it had a wonderful atmosphere and the rooms were very comfortable and clean. It is this type of hotel that makes travel so special - not the insipid 4 and 5 star monstrosities that some seem to stay in wherever they go. It is the small, privately owned hotels that encapsulate the true spirit of each country and we always stay in this type of establishment wherever possible.

    Soon after we arrived the rain stopped, the skies cleared and a timid sun peeped through. This gave us a chance to explore some of the local area.

    Dinner was provided by the hotel and was absolutely superb. I am now sitting in my room in broad daylight. The clock says it's almost 10 pm but it feels like 4 pm.
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  • Naantali

    June 19, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Nauvo to Naantali, Finland

    Every once in a while every cyclist experiences a wonderful day's riding that just encapsulates every reason that they love cycling so much. For me, today was one of those days. When you combine fine weather and a glorious assortment of quiet back roads, some busy roads, just the right amount of hills to get the blood pumping, spectacular scenery and a great group of friends to share the ride with, what more could anyone wish for ?

    The day started quite early and we were underway by 7.45 am in order to catch our first ferry for the day. If we missed this one we would have had a 4 hour wait for the next one, so no one wanted to be the one who keopt the group waiting. Fortunately we made the ferry in good time and were able to enjoy a 45 min journey gazing out at the amazing parade of islands gliding past the windows.

    As we left the ferry we started with a serious climb up from the water and this soon had everyone puffing vigorously. The road then undulated for quite a few kilometres and we pedalled happily just savouring the moment. This was the reason we had come so far to this country and today we were rewarded in spades.

    By 11am we were starting to get hungry and discovered a lovely "bakery" in a small town. As we were enjoying our hot chocolates and cakes the young waitress told us that an identical group of riders had been there the previous day (apparently all Australian riders look identical to them). This was yet more evidence that we were following the wheel tracks of Group 1.

    From time to time the clouds parted and we found ourselves riding in cool sunshine. Since today is the day before the summer solstice, the hours of daylight are just about at their maximum.

    On the outskirts of Naantali we rode through a huge modern golf course and stopped at the imposing club house for a delightful meal before continuing on our way to the township itself. Naantali is a resort town noted for its spas and health resort but we were prepared for just how huge the complex was. This is easily the most people we have seen since leaving Helsinki and I suspect that some are here to celebrate the solstice.

    The size of the complex must have distracted me enough to leave my back pack (containing passport, money, glasses, camera, etc) right in the centre of the entrance hall. When I realised what I had done I had about 60 seconds of pure panic but fortunately it was still there.

    Tomorrow is our final day of cycling in Finland. We will then have a free day in Turku before flying to Stockholm to begin our Swedish ride.
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  • Summer Solstice in Turku

    June 21, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Turku Finland - Saturday 21st June (Summer Solstice)

    Our stay last night was at the huge Naantali Spa Resort. This is a modern 5 star resort situated right on the ocean with its own impressive decking facility for the visiting passenger liners that frequent these waters. With its opulent entry foyer (complete with piano player), shopping arcade, array of saunas, swimming pools and spas, outdoor sports centres, swimming pool and marina it certainly was quite a spectacle. On arrival at the check in counter I was given a list of the day's optional activities (bridge club at 9 am, flower arranging class at 9.30 am, tap dancing at 10.00am, etc, etc) and in the morning the breakfast buffet would have been big enough to feed a small African country.

    Needless to say I could not wait to leave it and move on to the next location. Compared to the small character filled hotels we had been staying in for the past few days, this hotel was crowded and impersonal and seemed to be made of metal and plastic. It seemed like most of our riders shared the same sentiment and we were quite happy to pack our bags and ride on to something much simpler. I could never imagine why some people travel around the world and only ever stay in these sort of places.

    Before riding to Turku we spent some time exploring the delightful old centre of Naantali. This area had narrow streets and higgledy piggedly wooden houses. The atmosphere was wonderful although the temperature suddenly dropped so low that a few flurries of snow started to fall. Obviously mid summer in Scandinavia is not the place for shorts and thongs. A few minutes later the timid sun was doing its best to poke out between the clouds and the mood immediately changed. I don't we could ever complain about Melbourne's fickle weather again.

    Our ride today was quite short and we rolled gently along the sealed bike path back to our starting point in Turku. The rain stayed away and by mid afternoon the sky was mostly clear. This Is a pattern that had been established for the past few days.

    Back in Turku we finally caught up with Group 1, who had been doing the ride one day ahead of us. Tomorrow they will be catching the plane to Stockholm while we enjoy our final day in Finland. This gives us one evening to share a combined dinner before both groups separate again.

    Since this is the longest day of the year (and a Saturday) I thought there would be some sort of celebrations in town but the place is as quiet as a tomb. Maybe the population has all left to spend the at Naantali Spa ?
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  • On to Stockholm

    June 22, 2014 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    This was always going to be a busy day. It began with a morning train from Turku to Helsinki (2 hours) and on to the airport, for our flight to Stockholm - often referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’,

    Stockholm is unquestionably a unique and beautiful city all year round, not only due to its location on 14 islands with its infinite presence of water, but also because of its combination of nature, colourful architecture and ancient history.

    We didn't need to walk far to appreciate the impressive views stretching across the Baltic sea as it winds past the city walls. We strolled through 13th century Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s charming old town, where we could not help but feel its medieval atmosphere as we wandered through the cobblestone streets past the narrow, colourful houses of yesteryear.

    Our accommodation was a centrally located, boutique hotel near the centre of town.
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  • Free Day in Stockholm

    June 23, 2014 in Sweden ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Stockholm Weather – Mild and sunny (a welcome change)

    Yesterday we completed the journey from Turko to Stockholm and thus finished our time in Finland. After walking our cases from the hotel to the Turko Rail Station we caught a very comfortable train for the two hour rail journey back to the outskirts of Helsinki.

    We had arranged to be met by a shuttle bus for the journey to Helsinki Airport. To our surprise the driver was an Englishman who had made his home in Finland after falling in love with a Finnish girl some 19 years earlier. During our drive to the airport he gave us an interesting insight into life in Finland.

    We arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare and then had to spend more time waiting when our flight was delayed by an hour. To my surprise the entire check in process was automated and we did not have to produce a passport (or any other form of ID for that matter) at any time. Any person could have flown in my place using only my booking reference number.

    The short flight was achieved uneventfully and we loaded into two taxis for the journey from Stockhom airport to our hotel in the centre of the city. On first impressions we could see that Stockholm was a busier and apparently more flamboyant city than the understated Helsinki. The traffic was busy but flowed freely and we finally arrived at the Rex Hotel around 6 pm that afternoon.

    The diminutive size of our hotel rooms gave ample evidence that floor space in Stockholm is at a premium. I had thought that hotel rooms in Paris and London were small but I had never had to stand in the hallway to blow my nose before.

    Our arrival in Stockholm gave us another chance to catch up with the members of Group 1 and share some of our experiences with them. In spite of the unseasonably cool weather we had been experiencing they seemed in good spirits and were keen to resume their Scandinavian Ride the next day.

    After dinner in the hotel restaurant I went to bed early and slept for a solid 8 hours. Although the room was tiny I was pleased that I was able to open the window wide and I am sure that this helped me to sleep much better than I had been in the hermetically sealed rooms of Finland hotels.

    To my delight the next morning dawned fine and clear and gave a suggestion that summer might finally be arriving in Sweden. Although I am not the sort of traveller than runs frantically about a new city to see all the famous “tourist landmarks”, there was one thing that I really did want to see. In 1626 the Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus ordered the construction of the Vasa, which was intended to be one of the most heavily armed warships of its time. It was also richly adorned with colourful sculptures and it must have made an impressive sight as it left port on its maiden voyage in 1628. Unfortunately its maiden voyage only lasted about 15 minutes as the poorly designed and top heavy ship listed with the slight wind and allowed water to enter the gun doors. Within minutes the pride of the Swedish navy was at the bottom of the harbour, along with about 30 of its crew. And there it remained for the next 333 years.

    Somewhat ironically, by sinking so quickly the ships designers actually made it possible for generations in the far future to experience a unique insight into this bygone era. The ship was eventually raised to the surface in 1961 and has now been restored and is housed in an impressive purpose built museum which is visited by millions of people each year. I can honestly say that this was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen.

    I spent the remainder of the day doing what I love to do in every new city I visit – that is wonder the streets and observe the people. This practise has allowed me to meet some fascinating people all over the world and today was no exception. After a couple of hours of wandering I noticed a young man walking with a tiny little dog. I smiled and asked him what sort of dog it was. That led to a most interesting conversation that stretched to at least half an hour. He explained that he was a Christian Kurd from northern Iraq who was currently working in the Iraqi Embassy. It was obvious that he cared deeply for his people and was greatly concerned about the rapidly deteriorating situation in his country. We only stopped chatting when he realised that his dog had wandered away while we were distracted. Fortunately it was soon found and we parted company with a warm handshake.

    In spite of the prosperous nature of the city of Stockholm, one disturbing feature was the large number of gypsy beggars that were seated near most street corners, soliciting for money. Apparently this is a recent phenomenon and a similar trend is happening all over Europe.
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  • Ride to Trosa

    June 24, 2014 in Sweden ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Today began with a transfer from our Stockholm hotel to Stendörren Nature Reserve, considered by many to be one of the most beautiful archipelagos in the world. Here we spent some time hiking across the many islands using their intriguing system of suspension bridges.

    After our picnic lunch in the Reserve, we took our bikes and cycled along country lanes through the varied countryside; evergreen forests, meadows and lakes. Along the way we passed the impressive 17th century Nynäs Manor House.

    Trosa is visited by many Stockholmers in the summer months because of its
    unique location surrounded by both open landscape and another marvelous archipelago.

    Our accommodation hotel dates back to 1867 and was located right in the village square and alongside the picturesque Trosa stream which winds its way through the village.
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  • Ride to Gnesta

    June 25, 2014 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Trosa turned out to be one of the surprise jewels of this trip. With its immaculate streets, central canal and beautiful buildings, it was a place that you could quickly fall in love with. Our favourable feelings for this city may also have been influenced by the fact that the weather has finally turned to summer. After the previous rain and cold of Finland it is a lovely feeling to be warm again and to start shedding some of the layers of winter clothing.

    The hotel in Trosa was also the best we had stayed in so far. Not only was it immaculately clean, but it such an amazing character that you could easily feel like extending your stay indefinitely.

    We took a little time to explore the city before finally getting underway at 10 am. The first section of the ride was a relatively easy 15 km to Talgurn Palace, one of the many residences of the Swedish Royal Family. Although it certainly was opulent, it was not in the same level of grandiose excess that characterise most of the royal residences of other European monarchs. Perhaps this is yet another example of the Scandinavian flair for understatement. One feels that if the Swedes were to build another palace, it could well be furnished from Ikea.

    We spent almost two hours at the palace and had a most interesting tour of the building itself. The guide was a very knowledgeable young Art Historian who gave us a most professional insight into life in the palace.
    After lunch the easy roads gave way to rough and undulating unsealed tracks.
    The views were breathtaking but the bikes soon began to fail under the strain we were putting on them, When Jon's rear derailleur sheered right off we were left wondering just what to do. We had no alternative other than to send most of the riders on ahead while 4 of us waited for a rescue and a replacement bike.

    It took well over an hour for a replacement bike to be delivered and we had no hopes of ever catching the rest, especially when Jon suffered a rear wheel puncture just a few minutes along the road. After repairing the puncture we set off in pursuit although we were behind by over 90 minutes.

    The road deteriorated into a rough and loose surface with numerous short but quite steep hills. Somewhat surprisingly we caught the peloton about 7 km from our destination. The tough ride was taking its toll and some of the less experienced riders were becoming exhausted by this stage.

    Eventually we did all make the Oster Malma Nature Reserve at 6.45 pm after a long and challenging day of riding. The location is right on the banks of the lake and that is where we enjoyed a delicious BBQ dinner. Tomorrow we hope to see our first moose !
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  • On to Mariefred

    June 26, 2014 in Sweden ⋅ 16 °C

    These images were taken during the last two days cycling from Oster Malma to Mariefred. There were so many highlights along the way. Some of these included staying overnight in a wildlife sanctuary (but unfortunately the moose were hiding), taking a trip on what surely must be one of the world's smallest steam trains, partaking from the most breathtaking array of sweets and cakes I have ever seen, taking a voyage on a 110 year old steamboat from Mariefred to Stockholm and some more amazing cycling. This now completes part one of our adventure.

    Tomorrow the groups start to splinter and reform to form a new group to fly to Manchester to begin our UK ride.
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  • Steamboat to Stockholm

    June 27, 2014 in Sweden ⋅ 18 °C

    Today we enjoyed a free day to enjoy the area around Mariefred. Several of us chose to cycle through green fields, forests and along the shores of Lake Mälaren to the isolated Taxinge Manor House. Taxinge is not only a beautiful manor house set in lovely surroundings but it is famous for its cakes.

    After tea break, we boarded the charming steam train from Taxinge, reminiscent of times gone by, and made our way back to the village of Mariefred.

    Later in the afternoon we left Mariefred and boarded the steamboat which took us back to Stockholm where we spent the night in the heart of the city, within walking distance of all sights, restaurants and the charming old town.
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  • Off to the UK

    June 29, 2014 in England ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today marked the end of our Scandinavian Adventure and the beginning of a brand new one in the UK. After a morning flight from Stockholm to Manchester, we then caught the train to Ulverston. This was the starting point for our ride across the UK to the East Coast.Read more

  • Free Day in Ulverston

    June 30, 2014 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    A lot has happened since I sent out the last email. Yesterday was the final day of our Scandinavia Adventure and the scattering of our riders as they begin to make their long journeys back to Australia. This is always tinged with some regret that the adventure that they have long anticipated has now come to an end. It is amazing how quickly people settle into the simple routine of daily cycling, so much so that they really miss it when the riding finishes. Perhaps it is because we live in such a complex world that it is refreshing to distil your life down to a simple daily routine of just turning the pedals over and over while the world passes by your handlebars.

    The end of the Scandinavia Ride signaled the start of the UK ride for 9 of our riders. I had originally anticipated that the trip from Stockholm to Ulverstone would be a routine affair but it turned out to be laden with excitement and mystery.

    When I booked two local taxis to take us to the airport I did not realise that I would have somehow found two drivers who seemed bent on arranging a simultaneous suicide mission. Hurtling along the freeway at 145 kph through peak hour traffic while weaving from lane to lane was not my idea of a relaxing ride. While the engine of our little mini bus screamed in torment we sat huddled in the back with white knuckles and sweaty palms. Time and time again he swerved and braked to avoid imminent catastrophe. I counted every kilometre to the airport and was mighty relieved to finally fall out onto the pavement outside the departure terminal at Stockholm Airport. At that stage I though the worst was over.

    The next stage was over quickly as we completed the completely automated checkin with Norwegian Airlines. I learned that Norwegian is one of the youngest airlines in the world and also the most automated. The relatively short flight to Manchester was achieved without incident (and also without much comfort) but I discovered just before landing that the previous occupant of seat 17F had sabotaged the seat with chewing gum. To my dismay I found long lengths of gum stretching between my trousers and the seat in front. What do you do in such circumstances but try to look unfazed. The guy in the next seat said “Welcome to Manchester”.

    I followed the throng out of the plane and found myself in a huge stationary crush of people waiting to pass through Immigration. It’s somewhat ironic that you can move about all of Europe without so much as a border crossing but the UK still insists on stamping passports. This would not be so bad if the queues had been laid out in some sort of logical fashion. As it was it looked like the planners had done their best to create chaos. I had never before seen two intersecting queues until I saw the fiasco in Manchester Airport. The sign on the wall said “Britain’s Best Airport” making me wonder what sort of state the rest were in.

    By the time I finally reached the front of the queue the man with the stamp asked me “How long have you been here ?” I replied “too long, at least an hour”. He glared at me fiercely. I belatedly realised that he had asked me “How long will you be here ?” so he probably thought I was some sort of wise guy. Oh well, not a good start and I probably have a black mark against my record already.

    It had taken so long to get through Immigration that the luggage carousel had ceased dispensing luggage from my flight and had moved on to the next flight. Fortunately potential chaos had been averted by someone else kindly removing my bag.

    If I thought that the hard part was now over I was again mistaken because the next stage involved catching a train from the airport to Ulverstone. This would have been easy if at least two of the staff had agreed on what was the best way to purchase a ticket and which train to catch. It seems that the British Train System is a hotbed of mass confusion and disinformation. When we found the train, even the conductors at each end of the train had different opinions about where that train was actually going ! It turned out that the train actually splits in the middle somewhere along the journey. Another trap for the inexperienced to fall into.

    Somehow we jammed all 9 of us and our luggage into a carriage and managed to upset all the fellow passengers who had to make room for our bags. The ride itself took about 2 and a half hours and delivered us finally to the seaside town of Ulverstone. By this time we were quite exhausted and were relieved to walk the short distance to our quaint little hotel – The Virginia House B & B. With its floral wallpaper and floral carpets and narrow staircases we all expected Basil and Sybil to appear at any moment.

    The day did have a surprise ending when we walked to the nearby Rose and Crown Pub for dinner. Although I had been told to expect very poor quality food from rural pubs, the food here was superb. Not only were the servings huge but it was well prepared and very much cheaper than the high prices of Scandinavia.

    Tomorrow we have a free day before starting our UK ride. I am sure it will be interesting.
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  • The Land of Derwent Pencils

    July 2, 2014 in England ⋅ 18 °C

    Yesterday was a “rest” day in Ulverstone, Cumbria, UK. This gave me a great opportunity to explore the town and to also climb to the top of Hoad Hill to gain a magnificent panoramic view around the whole district. At the top of the hill there is an impressive structure that looks like a huge lighthouse, but in fact it is a memorial to the region’s favourite son – Sir John Barrow.

    Barrow was a local lad who rose from humble beginnings to become a distinguished mathematician, linguist, explorer and scientist. He was the Second Secretary to the Admiralty for over 40 years! Over a hundred years ago this impressive monument was erected to make sure that his achievements would not soon be forgotten.

    Ulverstone is also the birthplace of Stan Laurel (of Laurel and Hardy fame). There are a number of Laurel and Hardy signs throughout the town as well as the well known Laurel and Hardy Museum. This is a rather quaint collection of memorabilia housed in an old picture theatre. A few of us watched an old Laurel and Hardy classic and were soon rolling in laughter. The secret of their comic genius was in being able to work elaborate skits with the most basic of props as well as their comic timing and facial expressions.

    Today we collected our bikes and rode to the edge of the sea. Since we were about to complete the Cumbria cycle route as well as the Cyclist’s Coast to Coast Ride it was only fitting that our start point should be the sea on the western coast of the UK.

    We had not ridden far (in fact about 500 metres) before we encountered the first of many hills. This soon reminded us that the riding here would be very different from the flatter country of Scandinavia. The Lakes District of Cumbria is studded with hills large and small and this region is home to many distinguished mountaineers. In fact the entire day’s ride was a succession of steep uphills and downhills, some up to 25% gradient.

    It also didn’t take long for my bike to develop an annoying clicking sound which accompanied me for the rest of the day (and I suspect I will have it for company for the rest of the ride). Rick reminded me of the great advantage of wearing cleats and explained how he had bought his own pedals and cleats from Australia for the ride. A few moments later we all heard a skid and a shout and noticed that Rick had fallen heavily in the loose stones – apparently caused by not being able to get his foot from the cleat quickly enough. I think I will stick to the normal pedals after all.

    Although the riding was hard, the scenery was spectacular – narrow lanes, dry stone fences, small farmlets and of course lakes. For some kilometres the road skirted beautiful Coniston Water before climbing very steeply over our final mountain for the day and then descending to our destination of Grasmere. `
    Grasmere is a very popular tourist centre with numerous restaurants and hotels.

    We arrived to find dozens of tourists climbing out of huge buses to wander the town and take pictures of the surrounding mountains.
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  • Through the Lakes District to Keswick

    July 3, 2014 in England ⋅ 17 °C

    Today our route took us around Thirlmere, once again on quiet roads, but later
    with some busier sections heading into Keswick. We had good views of Helvellyn 950m from across the lake. Thirlmere is certainly a beauty spot and it is a great place to view birdlife, especially wild fowl.

    Thirlmere was amalgamated from two lakes into a reservoir in 1889 and is three miles long and over 150 feet deep in places. Swimming in it is not allowed because they say it is too cold!

    Our accommodation was in Keswick: the town that nestles beneath giant Skiddaw by the shores of Derwent water, we stayed at a 2 star hotel set right on the old market square close to all the towns amenities
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  • Joining the Classic C2C Route

    July 4, 2014 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I am sitting in my room at the Edenhall Country Inn looking out the window at some beautiful stone cottages surrounded by acres of green grass and separated by beautiful drystone fences. Yesterday we completed the Cumbria Way Cycle route by cycling from Grasmere to Keswick. The weather was perfect for cycling and we even had the rare assist of a steady tail wind for a substantial part of the day’s ride.

    The route took us through some magnificent countryside and it was easy to see why the Lakes District is so popular with walkers from all over Britain who come here to walk the ancient walking paths. The nicest cycling came when we cycled alongside beautiful Lake Thirlmere. For several kilometres the road followed the coastline and we stopped in the sunshine to just soak up the beauty that was all around us. On the other side of the lake the terrain rose steeply to Mount Hevellyn, one of the highest mountains in Britain.

    Our destination yesterday was Keswick, quite a large town with an impressive park. Situated on the Derwent River, this town became famous for its very popular range of Derwent colouring pencils. When I was at school in the 1950s any child that appeared at school with a box of 72 Derwents clearly showed the rest of us that their parents were indeed rich.

    Today we woke to grey skies and steady rain. This was a reminder that it is very hard to ride in this part of the country, even in summer, without encountering cold and wet conditions. We had no choice but to don our wet weather gear and pedal off from the hotel. Within minutes the steady rain increased to a downpour but surprisingly it did little to dampen our spirits. We were just so grateful to have the opportunity and the good health to do this iconic ride that the rain only added another dimension to our experiences.

    The first few kilometres of the route took us along an unused train track which has now been converted to a rail trail. This was also our first encounter with the famous Coast to Coast cycle route, since we have now left the Cumbria Way Cycle route and joined the C2C route to Sunderland. Over the next four days this route will take us over a succession of mountain ranges until it eventually reaches the East Coast of Britain.

    Although the weather was cold it did not take us long to warm up. It is impossible to stay cold when you are pedalling furiously to climb each new uphill path. In this part of the country we have learned that there is no flat land – you are always either going uphill or downhill and it always feels as if the uphills outnumber the downhills.

    Fortunately the rain had cleared by around lunchtime and this was also the time that we reached the small town of Greystoke, famous as the location for the Tarzan stories. Greystoke Castle is certainly an impressive building but it is now privately owned and out of bounds to the general public.

    After lunch at Annie Swarbick’s Cycle Cafe we continued on our way to our destination of Edenhall. The path undulated regularly and “blessed” us with one enormous climb on the outskirts of Penrith. By that time our legs were getting tired but we all managed to make the summit and then enjoy the fast downhill on the other side.

    Tomorrow will be the hardest day of our entire trip with a succession of 4 mountain ranges to cross and a route that will take us to the highest village in the entire UK. I will let you know how we fare, but for now I am heading for an early night.
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  • Hills and More Hills

    July 5, 2014 in England ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We have now completed the hardest day of the entire ride, having crossed the Pennines. We had a succession of 4 climbs to comp!ete in quick succession, some of the gradients were incredible - probably well over 20%. The roads here make now allowance for common sense and most often just head straight or down the sides of mountains. Fortunately everyone made it here, tired but proud of their achievement. We spent the night in the old schoolhouse at Allenheads.
    This is claimed to be the highest village in the UK and the views are amazing.

    One of the photos shows the view from our window.

    This morning we still have two hard climbs to conquer before the road starts to head downhill again. Tomorrow will be the final day's riding into Sunderland to officially complete our Cumbria and Coast to Coast rides. Then our group will scatter to each make their own ways back to Australia. Paul and I will be spending some time in London before catching the Eurostar to Paris for a few days.

    It has been a fantastic trip with everything going according to plan so far.
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  • What Goes Up Must Come Down

    July 6, 2014 in England ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    I am currently sitting in my room at the Moorings Hotel in Chester Le Street, County Durham, UK. By this time tomorrow our UK ride will be completed but we will all be returning to Australia with a huge store of memories and impressions of the amazing experiences we have had.

    The last two days have been the hardest of our entire trip and really stretched some of our riders mentally and physically. We all knew that riding across the UK from West to East would take us across the line of mountains that constitutes the backbone of the country. What we did not anticipate was that the roadmakers would run their roads directly into the face of a mountain, without making any deviation to reduce the gradient. This provides the aspiring cyclist with a series of gut busting climbs at gradients far higher than any you are likely to meet in Australia.

    Our ride yesterday took us across 4 of these high and desolate mountain passes. Even with our lowest granny gears engaged the climbing is still tough, especially for those of us who aren’t built like toothpicks. It was hard going and certainly harder than the “moderate” rating this trip had been given. In fact for some it was the hardest riding they had ever done.

    As we got higher and higher we entered a desolate realm of treeless barren hills that reminded me of the images we see of riders approaching the tops of the climbs in the Tour de France. Speaking of the Tour de France, it actually started yesterday, not all that far away from where we were riding. Quite a few of the locals apparently took the opportunity to ride down to watch the Tour riders pass by and it certainly got a lot coverage in the local media.

    As we crossed over each successive summit we then enjoyed a period of wonderful downhill riding, but the enjoyment is always tinged with the fearful knowledge that every metre of vertical height we dropped would soon have to be clawed back with blood, sweat and tears when we reached the next climb.

    Late in the afternoon our exhausted riders finally reached Allenheads and were dismayed to find that our accommodation was in one of the highest buildings in the village. No wonder that most of us pushed our bikes up the steep and winding driveway to the Old School House, which was to be our home for the evening. This was a no frills B &B that necessitated most of us to sleep in small dormitories. Fortunately we were all so tired that none of us could be kept awake by even the loudest of snoring and flatulence.

    Although yesterday was always going to be the toughest single day of the ride we also knew that today was also going to be challenging as we still had two significant gut busters of climbs to complete before we could finally start the long descents into County Durham.

    The first ascent began as soon as we left Allenheads and provided a real challenge for cold legs. We climbed into a barren but beautiful series of rolling moors. This region was once home to numerous lead mines and the ruins of numerous old mines and small, now uninhabited, villages were passed as we rode along the high roads. After morning tea at Stanhope we immediately began the final huge climb of the ride. This was tough but we were buoyed by the knowledge that the really hard work was nearly over.

    Finally we turned from the main road and joined the “Waskerley Trail”. This provided us with some of the most delightful cycling I have ever done anywhere in the world. It began high in the moors and initially followed the path of a disused railway line. As we rode on for kilometre after kilometre the terrain gradually changed to shady tree lined paths interspersed with towering bridges, tunnels and viaducts. This really is cyclists’s heaven and I am surprised that it is not publicised more as I am sure that many would travel from around the world to enjoy the experience.

    The bike path took us almost of the way to our destination at Chester le Street, but of course our hotel had to be perched on the highest mountain in the district, necessitating one final climb for the long day.

    Tomorrow we have a relatively short ride to Sunderland where we will reach the east coast of the UK and the tradition is that we will have to dip our front wheels in the water, just as we dipped our rear wheels in the water at Ulverston. That will mark the end of our ride and the separation of our riders as they each make their own ways back to Australia. I am sure that this will be a ride that none of us will ever forget.
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