2014 Scandinavia and UK

June - July 2014
In 2014 I took a group of 23 cyclists to ride in Finland and Sweden. I then took a smaller of 10 to complete the famous Coast to Coast ride across England. The original journal of this ride was lost some years ago, but some details were saved. Read more
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  • Day 3

    Free Day in Helsinki

    June 13, 2014 in Finland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Helsinki - Saturday

    With only 1 week to go till the longest day of the year it is no wonder why it is virtually daylight for 24 hours each day. It's a strange feeling walking the streets at 11 pm in bright daylight but we are slowly getting used to it. The weather today had cleared to a fine day with extended periods of sunshine and it was amazing just how much better the city looks when the sun is shining.

    Of course in the middle of winter the opposite is true when it is dark for about 22 hours of each day. The extensive harbours also freeze completely at that time of the year and the hundreds of privately owned small boats in the marinas must be moved to dry dock before they get crushed in the ice.

    Finland shares over 1000km of border with Russia and we are only300 km from St St Petersburg. Russia actually controlled Finland for over 100 years abnd you can still see some Russian influence in the Russian Orthodox Churches and austere architecture. In fact the Finns are famous for their good design and they do not augment their buildings with unecessary decoration. The harsh climate and the strict Lutheran heritage also combines to make the Finnish quite conservative and well behaved. Even the teenagers tend to be modestly dressed and quietly spoken. It is also worth noting that all Finns also speak Swedish and English. In fact English is virtually their first language.

    The streets are clean and well maintained and we have seen hardly any graffiti anywhere.

    Tomorrow 11 of our riders leave Helsinki to begin their rides. The rest of us will leave the following day. In the meantime I will be taking a group of 10 down to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. It is an 80 km ferry trip each way.
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  • Day 4

    Day Trip to Tallinn

    June 14, 2014 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Helsinki Finland

    Today we woke to a glorious day without a cloud in the sky. After the somewhat grey days that we have been having it was a real joy to see the weather so improved. After an early breakfast we caught one of the huge ocean going ferries for the 80 km crossing of the Baltic Sea to Tallinn, the capital city of Estonia.

    Each day a succession of these huge ferries (and I really mean HUGE) go back and forth between Helsinki and Tallinn. Each one carries thousands of passengers and a large number of cars and trucks.

    AT first glance you would wonder why so many people would be travelling back and forth between these two smallish cities. It is worth noting that the entire population of Estonia is only 1.3 million. It is hard to imagine how such small populations could justify such a huge investment of money and shipping resources.

    The answer to this puzzle is actually rather tragic. The reason why most Finns make the trip across the Baltic is because the price of liquor in Estonia is about 1/4 of the price in Finland. This results in huge numbers of Finns travelling across for the sole purpose of purchasing massive quantities of cheap liquor. They are not interested in tourism and when they arrive in Tallinn they go straight to the huge liquor warehouses to purchase pallet loads of booze.This is then loaded into car boots, trolleys, suitcases and anything else that can carry copious quantities of plonk. On the return trip back to Helsinki the entry ramps are clogged with these huge loads of booze ready to be transported back to Finland. Those who cannot wait to get home before getting drunk, hit the booze in Tallinn and then stagger back to the ferry to make the return trip in an alcoholic stupor.

    This really does give an insight into a dark side of the Finnish society. Although the people are generally quiet and conservative, the nation has a huge problem with excessive drinking and alcoholism. This is one of their biggest current problems and, after our trip to Tallinn, we could appreciate something of the damage that this dependence has done to the Finnish population.

    Apart from the shipping industry that runs on liquor, the time we spent in Tallinn was absolutely delightful. Unlike Helsinki, Tallinn has an extensive old city with a large number of beautiful medieval buildings. The cost of living is also much cheaper in Estonia so we were able to enjoy lunch and dinner at very low prices.English is widely spoken and the people treasure their freedom after the collapse of the soviet control. It is worth watching the fascinating documentary "The Singing Revolution" that documents the amazing series of events that led to a peaceful end to communism in this tiny country.

    We arrived back in Helsinki about 10.30 pm but the bright daylight made it seem more like 2.30 pm.We are not even at the longest day yet but we already have 24 hours of continuous daylight. While this might be a novelty in summer, I don't think the long hours of darkness each day would make the Finnish winter much fun. Apparently they have a big problem with depression and social melancholia during the winter months.

    Tomorrow we leave Helsinki and prepare to begin our bike ride.
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  • Day 5

    Transfer to Turku

    June 15, 2014 in Finland ⋅ 13 °C

    Turku, Finland - (only a few days till the longest day of the year - a time that is especially exciting for those that live so far north of the equator).

    This morning we walked the 2 km from our hotel in Helsinki to the impressive central Helsinki Railway station. Fortunately there is a walking/bike path which went almost directly from the hotel to the centre of town so we did not have to battle our suitcases through hordes of people and cars.

    The train was comfortable and modern and glided along at 160 kph on its way to Turku. The only thing I can't understand is why people who live in the coldest climates have their houses, buses, trains, etc heated to tropical temperatures. A couple of days ago we learned that there are 3 million saunas in Finland and I suspect that half of them might be disguised as train carriages. We looked for a way to open the triple glazed windows but they were sealed shut so we slowly sizzled for the entire 2 hour train ride to Turku.

    Turku is the original capital of Finland and has a longer history than Helsinki. Our hotel is near the city square, right in the middle of the town and only a short walk from where we will be picking up our bikes in the morning.

    I am now back in the hotel room where the sign says that the temperature cannot be set any lower than 22C (but presumably it can be set at any higher temperature that someone from Saudi Arabia might prefer). I tried to open the window but discovered that I would need a large brick to complete the operation. It looks like another bright and hot "night ahead". Actually it's now been a week since I have experienced darkness so I am finding it hard to remember what night time is really like.

    Tomorrow we collect the bikes and begin our ride. That's the real reason that we came this far from Australia and, although it has been pleasant to be doing the classical "tourist" thing, I think we would soon start to get bored to tears if we had to be inactive for much longer. It's time to start turning the pedals and get some adrenaline pumping !
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  • Day 6

    Cycling to Taivassalo

    June 16, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    This morning we finally got to start the bike ride we had come so far to experience. After leaving our hotel in Turku we walked a short distance to the bike shop that was to supply the bikes for our ride. The next 30 mins were spent adjusting and sorting the gear before it was finally time to get underway. The bikes supplied were the typical European bikes with upright stance and easy riding characteristics. Although they were not made for speed, they are the type of bikes that most Europeans love to ride.

    The region that we will be riding in Finland is called the Turku Archipelago (or as the Finns pronounce it – The Torrrku Archie Pelago). This is a beautiful region of thousands of islands, lakes and coastal inlets. The roads are quiet and the area is ideal for cycle touring.

    According to our instructions we had about 42 km to ride before we encountered our first of many ferry crossings. Since there was only ferry each day for this crossing, it was absolutely imperative that we did not miss it. I had already heard from Paul (the leader of Group 1) that they only just made it to the terminal in time so we were careful to watch our progress.

    Although we had been expecting a flattish ride we actually found that the ride was quite undulating with several quite steep climbs along the way. These would not normally have been too much of a challenge, however we also faced the extra challenge of a howling head wind that buffeted and fought us virtually every kilometre of the way. The temperature also plummeted to about 7 C reminding us that we are now even closer to the north pole even than we were in Helsinki. Even in the short summer the weather can be extremely variable this far north.

    Fortunately the cold did not evolve into rain, even though the black clouds hovering overhead did make me feel rather nervous. As the day wore on the clouds slowly dispersed and we were presented with rather luke warm sunshine instead. One thing that did not change all day was the fierce wind. At one point I stopped to add another layer of clothes and had to take off my riding gloves in order to remove my rain jacket. The wind immediately grabbed both of the gloves and threatened to send them hurtling over the side of the bridge we had stopped on. I dropped my bike and ran after them, just managing to save them from disappearing over the edge. At the same time Ken was running after several important sheets of notes that were blown from his grasp.

    In spite of the meteorological challenges we managed to reach the ferry terminal with almost two hours to spare so were able to sit down and enjoy a leisurely lunch before climbing onboard the waiting boat. Many of these ferry crossings are free but when you consider that this region of Finland had something like 30,000 islands it is the only way that people and goods can be carried between the scattered centres of population.

    While we were waiting for the ferry we also talked to the owner of the small cafe and he told us that they are only open for a few months each year and then everything is stored away for the winter. Every one who can leave the area leaves, and only a few diehards stay behind to endure the arctic freeze that envelopes the region for half the year. He also explained that most Finns are actually looking forward to global warming as it will make their lives a little bit more endurable.

    On the ferry we all crowded into a small passenger room and told jokes while we enjoyed the warmth. After about 45 mins we reached our destination and rode the remaining 12 km to our accommodation for the evening. This turned out to be a wonderful converted stone cow barn with walls at least 1 metre thick. The friendly proprietor supplied a delightful and delicious meal and soon after 12 tired cyclists staggered up to their rooms for an early night.
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  • Day 7

    Cycling to Korpoo

    June 17, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Turku Archipelago

    "In Which we See a Hawk at Mossala"

    This was always going to be one of the longest and hardest days of our time in Finland. With about 65 Km of cycling and no less than 6 ferry crossings to complete and coupled with the ever variable weather of the region we knew that we were in for a long day in and out of the saddle.

    By 8 am we had finished breakfast, packed our panniers and were underway under a leaden sky and single digit temperature. If we have learnt anything in the short time we have been here it is that this really is a harsh place to survive. Our proprietor of our last hotel explained that the entire "summer tourist season" lasts only until the end of July. Then he has to close the hotel and prepare for the long, bleak winter. Of course he doesn't stay here over winter, in fact almost no one does. Apparently there is a mass exodus of Finns to countries much closer to the equator that occurs every year. Only the most stoic and foolhardy are left to sit out the winter months in freezing darkness.

    We had not ridden very far before we realised that, although the wind was not actually in our faces, it was still no weather for brass monkeys. I stopped to add a few extra layers and make myself look even more like the proverbial Michelin man. Fortunately the threatening clouds held on to their load of rain and we were able to stay dry.

    The thing that makes this region so unique is the huge number of islands that fill all the waterways. Everywhere you look you see islands of all sizes scattered as if some carless giant had scattered them across the sea. This led to a discussion of how big one has to be before it could really be classed as "an island". By consensus we decided that it must have at least tree and that the tree must be at least 1 metre tall.

    By mid morning the early arctic chill was beginning to dissipate and a few patches of blue sky started to appear. Spirits started to soar as the temperature rose and soon we were riding in lovely sunshine.

    Our third ferry journey was a long one of about 45 mins and took us to the small settlement of Mossala. When we emerged from the boat it was almost 2 pm and we were all hungry and looking for a place to have lunch. We soon found a lovely little café that supplied a delicious lunch of soup, chips, mashed potatoes and salad. While we were enjoying this food a group of women from the next table came up and politely asked where we were from. When we told them we were from Australia they became very excited and started to share stories of friends in Australia. One produced her mobile phone and showed that it had the symbol of the Hawthorn Football Club on it. Could you believe that a Hawthorn supporter would be found in this faraway part of the world ?

    The afternoon became warmer and warmer as we island hopped our way through the archipelago. Sometimes we even had a tail wind to help us climb the frequent hills along the way.We had a substantial wait for the final ferry trip and had a delightful time enjoying the warm sunshine as we waited for it to arrive.

    Our final island was Korppoo and this is our home for the night. Our "hotel" is another converted cow barn - very small but with an amazing character. I am now sitting in my very small room at 9.30 pm and looking out the window at the bright sun and a vast sea of verdant green grass. How lucky are we to have had such a wonderful experience.
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  • Day 8

    Cycle and Ferry to Nauvo

    June 18, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Nauvo, Turku Archipelago, Finland

    It was just as well that today was scheduled as a relatively easy day as it was the first day that the skies opened and rained on us for the entire ride. You might think that this would have spoiled the day however everyone seemed really happy and the rain did very little to dent their enthusiasm.

    After leaving our hotel we decided that we would ride back in the reverse direction for several kilometres so that we could see a little more of the quaint little town of Korrpoo. We arrived just in time for morning tea and the start of the day's rain. This gave us a great opportunity to relax in a lovely seaside restaurant and watch the boats while we each enjoyed a magnificent cup of hot chocolate.

    Since the rain looked it was there to stay we ended up staying until lunch. It was only when it became obvious that the rain was not about to stop that we donned our wet gear and climbed on the bikes. Although the drizzle was continuous the strong winds of the past few days had passed and we were able to ride in very still conditions.

    With Jon Bate as our leader up the front of the peloton, the rest of the riders formed a close conga line behind as we cruised along at a comfortable speed. Once again we were reminded of just how beautiful a location this is.

    After a wet but fun ride we arrived at our next hotel by mid afternoon and discovered that it was the best hotel we had stayed in for the entire trip. Although small it had a wonderful atmosphere and the rooms were very comfortable and clean. It is this type of hotel that makes travel so special - not the insipid 4 and 5 star monstrosities that some seem to stay in wherever they go. It is the small, privately owned hotels that encapsulate the true spirit of each country and we always stay in this type of establishment wherever possible.

    Soon after we arrived the rain stopped, the skies cleared and a timid sun peeped through. This gave us a chance to explore some of the local area.

    Dinner was provided by the hotel and was absolutely superb. I am now sitting in my room in broad daylight. The clock says it's almost 10 pm but it feels like 4 pm.
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  • Day 9

    Naantali

    June 19, 2014 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Nauvo to Naantali, Finland

    Every once in a while every cyclist experiences a wonderful day's riding that just encapsulates every reason that they love cycling so much. For me, today was one of those days. When you combine fine weather and a glorious assortment of quiet back roads, some busy roads, just the right amount of hills to get the blood pumping, spectacular scenery and a great group of friends to share the ride with, what more could anyone wish for ?

    The day started quite early and we were underway by 7.45 am in order to catch our first ferry for the day. If we missed this one we would have had a 4 hour wait for the next one, so no one wanted to be the one who keopt the group waiting. Fortunately we made the ferry in good time and were able to enjoy a 45 min journey gazing out at the amazing parade of islands gliding past the windows.

    As we left the ferry we started with a serious climb up from the water and this soon had everyone puffing vigorously. The road then undulated for quite a few kilometres and we pedalled happily just savouring the moment. This was the reason we had come so far to this country and today we were rewarded in spades.

    By 11am we were starting to get hungry and discovered a lovely "bakery" in a small town. As we were enjoying our hot chocolates and cakes the young waitress told us that an identical group of riders had been there the previous day (apparently all Australian riders look identical to them). This was yet more evidence that we were following the wheel tracks of Group 1.

    From time to time the clouds parted and we found ourselves riding in cool sunshine. Since today is the day before the summer solstice, the hours of daylight are just about at their maximum.

    On the outskirts of Naantali we rode through a huge modern golf course and stopped at the imposing club house for a delightful meal before continuing on our way to the township itself. Naantali is a resort town noted for its spas and health resort but we were prepared for just how huge the complex was. This is easily the most people we have seen since leaving Helsinki and I suspect that some are here to celebrate the solstice.

    The size of the complex must have distracted me enough to leave my back pack (containing passport, money, glasses, camera, etc) right in the centre of the entrance hall. When I realised what I had done I had about 60 seconds of pure panic but fortunately it was still there.

    Tomorrow is our final day of cycling in Finland. We will then have a free day in Turku before flying to Stockholm to begin our Swedish ride.
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