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Lukey's Boat

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    Canada Day

    July 1 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    July 1st was the last day of our Newfoundland holiday. We both jumped back into work when we arrived home so I never finished the blog. We stayed our last night in Gros Morne at the styling barn. Our flight home from Deer Lake wasn't until 2 pm. Deer Lake is about an hour from Gros Morne so we had no rush. Tuesday was Canada day so things were pretty quiet and we had one last opportunity to drive through and enjoy the beautiful scenery of Gros Morne. July 1 is Canada Day our National birthday. It was appropriate as flying home from Deer Falls to Edmonton is pretty well flying across the entire width of Canada without British Colombia. 2.5 hours to Toronto, a 2.5 hour lay over in TO and a 4 hour flight to Edmonton. It was a long day but everything went smoothly. No travel delays. Edmonton when we arrived home seemed like the garden of Eden compared to Newfoundland. We both really enjoyed our trip and would highly recommend everyone take at least one trip to the Rock aka Newfoundland. We were blessed by incredible weather and we were able to check the travel trinity of penguins, icebergs and whales off our bucket list. Two and a half weeks was perfect. If one had wanted to travel up to St Anthony I think we would have required at least 3 more days. Of all the places we visited I think I enjoyed Fogo island the most.Read more

  • Gros Morne

    June 30 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Yesterday was a spectacular sunny day which was perfect for our prebooked tour of West Brook Pond. In Nfld they call all of their lakes ponds which is cute. I always think of a pond as being small like what the call on the prairies a slough however all fresh water is called a pond. West Brook Pond is not just any pond. 10000 years ago it was connected to the ocean and would have been called a fjord. It now is separated by 3 km of land from the ocean and is a freshwater lake. On a sunny day it was spectacular. Cliffs of granite rising vertically from the water up to 800 meters above the lake. That's higher than the CN tower. It was as impressive as any of the fjords we saw in Norway. The one crew member was also a singer so for the last 15 minutes of the trip he performed Nfdl folk songs. It was a lot of fun.

    Now the real excitement on the trip began as we were landing. A caffufle started on the foredeck beyond our scope of vision as we were on the upper deck. I could tell something was wrong when someone ran up to the captain on the upper deck and told him something. A minute later the female crew person came up onto the deck holding her left hand wailing in pain announcing that she had lost her left thumb overboard at the time of landing. Normally in such situations I hold back. My first aid skills are poor and I don't function well in emergency situations. I have always felt guilty about this but this is the reality. They were in the process of landing the boat so the other crew person and captain were involved in these tasks. Cheryl however jumped up and helped the woman. I asked the crew member where the finger was but she said it had gone overboard. She was holding the thumb so I never saw it. We escorted the woman off the ship mainly Cheryl by holding the woman at the waist. One can't walk up and down steps without a hand to hold onto a railing. Physiotherapists know how to do this. The captain had radioed the office so when we got to the end of the dock a staff member told us they had called an ambulance but the staff didn't seem to know what to do. The boat tour left 3 km from the parking lot on a gravel road. They had golf carts to drive frailer people back and forth so I encouraged the staff to drive her to the trailhead to meet the ambulance. In hindsight, the wound wasn't really bleeding so they could have driven her to the nearest hospital. Wait times for ambulances in rural Canada can be very long. By the time we got to the car park 40 minutes later the staff member was gone and I suspect they had just driven her to the hospital. No one thanked us for mainly Cheryl's help. We were a little traumatized afterwards. I can't believe that Bon Tours who operate the tours are not better equipped to handle such medical emergencies as a large volume of tourists partake in this activity. I would like to think that they would have been more helpful to a guest and they were taken back as it was a staff member involved but I guess that I will never know

    We headed north to Cow Head another community in the park where there was a Lobster festival. To have called it a lobster festival was an over statement. The Anglican Church was putting on a lobster lunch/dinner. After losing but finding Cheryl's purse yesterday we decided to revert to what we do in Europe and other places. We would travel with our phones which have a credit card loaded on them, our licenses and a little cash. That way one reduces the risk of losing everything at once from one's wallet. The church lunch however was cash only and between us we only had 40 dollars which wasn't enough to pay for the lunch. We had packed our lunches as the details on the lobster festival had been weak so we ate in the church garden looking out at the ocean or probably better described as the Gulf of St. Lawrence and fed a very pesky seagull.

    We had enough energy for a short hike so headed out to the Cow Head lighthouse on an island off Cow Head for a short jaunt before calling it a day.

    Today was a rain day. It was foggy and drizzled all day long. It has been the first rain day of the whole trip so we have been quite fortunate. Newfoundland is known for being a wet rainy place. We headed out and did a several km out and back Coastal trail hike. We won't be experiencing the coast after our return to Edmonton. It was pretty in a foggy drizzly day. We saw innumerable American toads along the trail. They were quite comical to watch hopping off the trails. We were quite wet after our hike so headed back to our Airbnb for a change of clothing and rest. There was an aquarium advertised at Norris Point. My experience with aquariums is that often smaller is better and it is very dependent on the staff to explain the exhibits. This small aquarium was associated with Memorial University and had 4 enthusiastic summer interns working. They had displays of many aquatic animals and fish and the interns were very happy explaining everything to us. Some of my favorites were the wolf fish, the sea crabs and of course lobster McDavid a 97 year old 12 pound lobster. He was huge. It was a great experience.

    We had planned another walk in the evening but by then it was raining too hard and we played a game of Scrabble and Cheryl won.
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  • Fogo Island to Gros Morne

    June 27 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Yesterday we had a long travel day. We left our Fogo Island Air BnN at 8:15 am and got to our Air BnB in Rocky Harbor Gros Morne by 3:15pm. When we woke up in Fogo it was cold, rainy and windy. The door to the place almost blew off when we opened it. Environment Canada had issued a frost warning.The ferry left at 10 but various locals recommended being at the terminal by 8:45. The hour crossing was eventful as the boat was being moved by large swells. It was difficult to walk on the ship. It was so cold and windy, I didn't go onto the deck. We survived the crossing and set off for our 450 km drive. Much on the TransCanada Highway. The TCH is not double laned but there are passing lanes. We realized in areas that cars coming towards us were using our passing lane to pass cars and vice versa. It seems incredibly dangerous. The drive days kill me as I get car sick. Cheryl thankfully did a lot of driving. Those prairie folk are good at driving long distances. As we made it westward on the island it warmed up and the trees got bigger. After a Foodland stop in Deer Lake we headed off for our one hour drive to Rock Harbour where we are staying. Gros Morne represents fjord type bodies of water with forested small mountainous landforms. Think U shaped valley bottoms. The trees are now a mixture of spruce and deciduous trees. We arrived at our Air BnB called Styling at the Barn. It was previously a hair salon converted into an Air BnB. It is only a year old and very nicely finished.

    Today was a hike day. We drove for an hour making a large backwards U around Bonnie Bay to the tablelands an extremely unique geographical formation within the park. They are composed of reddened rock almost totally void of vegetation that form a mountainous range. The tablelands abruptly arise in the park. Very quickly one goes from heavily forested terrain to a barren rocky desert composed of a rock known as peridotite. We did a Parks Canada tour and learned that the Tablelands represent one of the few places on the earth where the mantle of the earth has been exposed. If you remember one's grade 10 geography, the earth has three basic layers. The crust on which we live, the mantle which is semisolid rock and the molton core. 500 million years ago plate tectonics caused one plate to override another pushing the mantle up to the surface where it solidified. The very thin crust overlying the mantle eroded and voila there was mantle on the surface. Pretty exciting if you are a geologist. We also learned that the mantle contained many metals which are poisonous to plant life.

    After we finished our 4 km hike we headed off to do another nearby hike known as The Green Garden Hike. The Green Garden Hike traversed the Tablelands before heading down towards the ocean. As one got closer to the ocean the trees gradually increased in size. At the coast there were tall cliffs atop a beach which you could walk down these rickety cable steps the 75 meters down to the beach. One way 4.5 k total elevation loss 400 metres. I find such hikes always quite deceptive as one feels good on the way down but pay for it on the way up. About 3/4 of the way down, Cheryl announced that her money belt purse had fallen out of the pocket of her coat somewhere along the hike when she had taken her coat off. She would head back to find it and I would continue to the coast for a quick selfie before returning. It is best that I don't get too excited in these situations. After making it down to the coast and the selfie I started the climb back up and after 10-15 minutes I met Cheryl coming down the trail with her money belt purse and Sherrie. Cheryl had walked up about 10 minutes before meeting Sherry who was walking along the trail asking everyone she met if they had lost their purse. Cheryl had given her and her friend Deb a hug. They were from Airdrie and Fort Mac. We Albertans have to stick together. We decided that Cheryl and I should go back to the coast as she had come so far without seeing it. We made it back to the coast and even ventured down to the beach on the rickity cable steps. It was very pretty and I was finally able to touch my fingers to the Atlantic. After visiting a little more with Sherry and Deb we headed up the long path to the car. It was sunny and felt a little warm although it was probably only 20 degrees. We did the hour back to Rocky Cove and we are now very tired.
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  • Joe Batt's Point and Fogo Inn Hotel

    June 26 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Another spectacular sunny but windy and cool day on Fogo Island. Today's hike was to Joe Batt's Point just north of Joe Batt's Arm. It was a beautiful hike along the coast for about 7 km along the brownish rock. Lots of wildflowers and some fenced in potato patches. The rock is very interesting in appearance as it is brownish and very creviced almost looking like weather skin. It catches the light very well. We met more hikers today than on all of the other hikes and after passing them, Cheryl and I would always say to each other after they were out of earshot: "Do you think that they are staying at the Fogo Island Inn? " More on the Fogo Island Inn later. During the hike we came across the 3rd artist studio that we have seen on the island. A squat long black building on posts looking out to the sea. We came across a giant Auk statue. Auks were a large flightless bird hunted to extinction in the 19 century. The statue was a little on the large side. We continued on to the point where there was a maritime navigation light before retracing our steps to the trail head. At the point we could make out 2 icebergs which we had previously seen. There were 2 different lobster fisherman out checking their traps close enough to shore that we could see them emptying their traps.

    On the way back to the trailhead we had a panoramic view across the bay which included the Fogo Island Inn. The Fogo Island Inn was built in 2013. It is a world renowned luxury inn visited by the rich and wealthy from all over the world. Nightly accommodations can cost $2500 CDN or higher with a minimum stay of 3 nights. The inn has been built on a very barren promontory of land facing out into the Atlantic. The building looks incongruous for the setting. Almost spaceship like or as Cheryl thought boat like. It looks out of place. There are only 29 rooms. But there is a deeper more interesting story to the hotel.

    Zita Cobb a Fogo Islanders left Fogo Island to attend university. She made her fortune in the tech business in Ottawa and wanted to give back to Fogo Island. Initially she started by setting up university scholarships for Fogo Island children. The Islanders observed that these scholarships were encouraging Islanders to leave. After consultation she and the Islanders settled on the idea of a luxury hotel. She had her brothers set up the Shorefest trust to oversee the development of the hotel. The goal of the trust was to initiate a business that would employ and promote tourism to the island. Employees would be paid a sustainable wage. Profits from the hotel would be reinvested in other businesses or to promote other businesses on the island. Monies would be used to promote artists and promote heritage. The trust has been an incredible success. The hotel is busy and 45 percent of revenue goes into the trust for other endeavors. The trust now owns a restaurant outside of the hotel, an ecological fishing company, a design company , two ice cream shops and more. They have paid for the restoration of 23 heritage properties on the island. There are 4 artists studios on the island, the pictures of 3 I have featured in the blog. They have an art gallery at the hotel and have artists in residence. They have apprenticeship programs for high school students.The hiking trails on the island are all in beautiful shape with walking boards over marshy areas and solidly constructed stairs up the steep parts. There are quilt shops and craft and artist shops throughout the island. There are many vacation homes. Al who gave us the tour in Tilting thought that the trust and hotel had really saved the island. The whole story of Fogo Island hotel is a true success story in sustainable development. People come from all over the world to try to figure out how they can duplicate this process.

    After another early supper we had energy for one last hike. We headed off to Brimstone Head for a hike up a 250 metre rock formation overlooking the ocean. Lots of steps but the view was worth it. We saw one of the 2 icebergs we have been seeing these last couple days for the last time.
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  • Fogo Island

    June 24 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We spent a whole day on Fogo Island today and it is a very unique place. I can't get over the landscape. It is one of the most barren places that I have been to in Canada. The glaciers 11000 years ago scraped the majority of the earth off the island leaving much of the island as simply rock. There are only scraggly stunted trees growing on the island. People were drawn to the island for fishing.

    This morning we travelled to Tilting another community on the island for a walking tour with Al. Cheryl 's friend Camille had done this tour a couple years ago and loved it. We met Al at the community centre and another couple who were originally from BC but lived in London Ontario my birthplace. Al took us on a 4.5 km walk of Tilting. He talked a little about the history of Tilting but the tour was mainly about his life growing up in Tilting. Born in 1950 and growing up in the 50s and 60s his life was very similar to that of his ancestors. There had been no electricity and the road into Tilting had not been built. He grew up in a saltbox house with 9 siblings and a fisherman father. The house was freezing in the winter. His responsibility had been to start the fire each morning and maintain the water supply in the kitchen. We walked by where he would bring the horse each morning to get the water from a well. He showed us his uncle's house and fishing sheds and described how they would gut, salt and dry the fish just like their ancestors had done. Tilting had been favored with a very small amount of topsoil where the family had a small plot of land for growing vegetables. Potatoes, turnips, carrots and cabbages. He described how they would use caplan-a minnow type fish and cod entrails and kelp to fortify the soil. We visited the family vegetable patch just outside of town. It didn't look like anything should grow there.He showed us where the family 's root cellars had been and how effective the root cellars were at keeping their vegetables cool in the summer and warm in the winter. We checked out the ponds were he had learned to swim and another nearby pond where he had learned to skate. Tilting had been settled by Irish Catholics from southeast Ireland 200 years ago. Of course being Irish Catholics we visited where his ancestors felt that Banshees and fairies had lived interestingly beside the abandoned Protestant cemetery. I have just finished reading Baltimore Mansion by Wayne Johnston. The book is a memoir. His family was very anti Confederacy. I asked Al about Tilting. Tilting had been Confederacy partly because as Irish Catholics they wanted to escape British colonial rule. Al personally thought that Confederacy had been good for Newfoundland. We kept waking. He told us how when he was 14 a ship unannounced in the harbor for TB screening. Mantoux skin tests some X-rays. The ship left but the following summer returned and took those citizens with positive X-rays away to a sanatorium in St Johns for a year. It took the heath agency a whole year to read and act on the x-ray results. Talk about poor turn around time. We finished our walk with Al. We went back to his shed or what they call a stage here in Nfld and he played us some Newfie songs on his guitar. It was very cute.

    We did another 2 short hikes on the drive back from Tilting both to the coast. There are lots of small cemeteries on the island. There have been people living here for 250 years and the people who lived here died early from disease or accidents. Many of the graveyards were in poor repair. We stopped in Seldom at a Foodland to buy some more groceries. The first time I have been in a grocery store where there is a sink at the entrance to wash your hands. A very good idea. We returned to our Saltbox house on the ocean and chilled out with a memorizing view of the ocean.

    We had an early supper as we decided an evening hike was in order. One can only be memorized by the ocean for so long. It had been a beautiful warm sunny day on Fogo however just as we were eating, the temperature dropped, it became windy and it got very foggy. For a while it didn't seem that a hike would be possible. The fog cleared of but it was now cold cloudy and windy. We decided to head anyhow and do the lions den hike by Fargo. Listed at 5.2 km it took us a long the coast where 4 different out ports had been located until the 1950s. There were signs boards with pictures of what the communities looked like but even with these pictures it was tough to image people living on the exposed North coast of Fogo island being exposed to the wind and the elements. It must have been terrible. On our way back from we were inland from the coast but it was still incredibly cold and windy. Every time we hike through boggy areas we see incredibly beautiful flowers including pitcher plants with red globular flowers, irises and orchids. We have definitely nailed wild flower season. We even saw a wild rose.
    At the end of the hike there were plaques commemorating the site of a Marconi wireless station which operated from 1911 to 1933 and could receive messages from 500 km away. At this site which was very high above the town the wind was just howling.
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  • Twillingate and Fogo Island

    June 23 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We had one full day in Twillingate. It was going to be difficult topping last night's sighting of the iceberg that was so close to the shore. We woke up and it was raining. Our first rain of the trip. The locals keep telling us how dry and hot it has been however it hasn't gone above 22 degrees since we have been here and many days it has only been highs of 15 to 17. I could hardly imagine a cool wet spring. We headed out to the Twillingate lighthouse around 10. Lighthouses are always fun places to visit in the rain There were no cars in the car park. The locals have told us how busy the tourism is this year but we are having problems finding other tourists. It was foggy and the rain had turned to a light drizzle. There was fog out on the water. Out in the ocean one could make out an iceberg floating in and out of the fog. It was all rather ethereal. We walked around on the cliffs overlooking the ocean and the distant iceberg. There was no one there other than Cheryl and I.

    We headed back into town to have lunch. We were curious how much the beached iceberg had melted so swung around Bayview road and had another worship. I guess this iceberg has been stranded in Twillingate for a month and at first was a very large cube before parts started to fall off. It was making a bubbling sound from releasing gas. One of the locals who had been visiting it daily told us it had been calved from a glacier in Greenland 3 years ago and the ice was probably 10000 years old. Learning this we felt compelled to walk down to the shore and fish out a smaller piece of ice, an ice cube? from the water. Was it ever cold.

    After lunch at our cabin " Above de Atlantic" we headed out for a hike to a Natural arch bridge. We got a little disoriented hiking first across a peninsula. We ended up doing a longer hike as we had to hike around the tip of the peninsula to get to the Natural bridge and back to the car. It was only a four km hike but the path yoyod up and down these very steep rocky hills. There were lots of railings to hold onto both going up and down. It was very pretty in a desolate way. I have noticed that the various communities that we have stayed in have all been very active in building hiking paths to promote tourism. There are weeks worth of day hikes in each of the little communities that we have stayed in since leaving St. John's. The name of the trail system in Twillingate is the Red cut. We met a New Brunswick couple while we were out hiking but no one else. Too cold and windy for mosquitoes they told us.

    Today we headed off to Fogo island. We had to drive 45 minutes to Farewell. A sign at the ferry terminal stated "Welcome to Farewell" which was cute. Before we left for Farewell we drove down Bayview Road to say good bye to our iceberg. We could see some large icebergs off the coast. When we got down to the cove with our iceberg it was gone. It had floated off during the night.

    We were in good time for the ferry as we always worry that there will not be enough space for us. We almost didn't get on a ferry in Norway as we had arrived very late. That was a close call as it only ran daily and we had prepaid. The ferry ride today was an hour and other than seeing 2 icebergs was fairly uneventful.

    Our first impression of Fogo island was that it was even more desolate than our hike in Twillingate. Is more desolate considered barren. There are very little to no trees. In the North where we are staying in the town of Fogo there are no trees, mainly just rock. We couldn't get into our Air BnB until 3 so we decided to do a hike on the island/peninsula just north of Fogo. Fogo Head Trail. It took us a long the coast and up up up this rocky promontory overlooking the ocean. Looking out to the ocean, there was nothing between us and Iceland. We saw 2 icebergs which we suspect were the ones seen from the ferry. The locals had built steps that seemed to go on forever before reaching the top. I counted at least 300 steps before losing track. It was a loop that circled around through the North end of town. There was a craft store at the trailhead. Cheryl bought a quilted apron. They had many crafts including hooked rugs and beautiful quilts. Fogo Islanders are known for their quilts. People over the winter have time on their hands. This store was run on consignment. The quilts were masterpieces of art. The store owner told me that a queen sized quilt could take 90 hours of work. They sold for 850 to 1000 for a queen and more for a king or the more ornate designs.

    We are staying in a very cute saltbox house looking out onto the ocean. The name saltbox came from the fact that the early houses in the fishing out ports were made from wood from the boxes that the salt used in the processing of the cod was stored in. Wood was at a premium and the boxes were reused. Saltbox then was used to refer to a certain architectural type of house with two stories at the front and one sloping story at the back. It now seems to be applied quite liberally to any wooden house which looks quaint. After supper we walked around town. There we a few people driving around and four children playing hockey but otherwise it was very quiet.
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  • Lupins, Orchids, Beothuks and Icebergs

    June 21 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    We have had two back to back drive days. On June 21 we drove from Bona Vista which is on one peninsula over to Sandringham on the next peninsula just north of Terra Nova Ntl. Park. Today we drove from Sandringham through Gander to Twillingate on the very north of the island on the next peninsula. We drove for about 2.5 hours each day. On Saturday driving down from Bona Vista we hit all sorts of weather. It started sunny and warm and by the time we had hot the number 1 highway over an hour and a half we had driven through fog and rain and had a 10 degree temperature drop. We stopped in Lethbridge Nfld not Alberta. Cheryl 's colleague Derrick is from there so we wanted to stop and take some photos. Lethbridge appears to have been forgotten as there weren't many houses and there weren't any architectural guidelines. It was a bit of a disappointment but there were lots of beautiful flowering Lupins. A non-native semi invasive species. We continued on to Terra Nova Ntl park. We pulled off at a viewing point and I hiked up an old watch tour. It was quite terrifying as the wind was blowing at 60 km per hour and I thought my glasses would blow off. We chatted to a Danish family who had rented a motorhome and were driving around for 8 weeks in Maritime Cdn. We drove on and ate our lunch in the beautiful Parks Canada building beside the bones of a humpback whale. The building had some great exhibits including one where you could hold urchins and starfish. I love holding starfish which I am infrequently allowed to do as I live in Edmonton.We did a short hike along the Coastal trail on the shore of Neuman Sound to a waterfall. The highlight was seeing these Pink Lady slipper flowers which are a northern orchid. The waterfall was barely running as there was little snow this winter and they have had a dry spring. Good for us with no significant rain during our trip but not great for forest fires or the environment. The sound was whipped up into a malestrome of whitecaps. Our B and B for the night was in Sandringham run by a Newfie couple who had lived in Calgary for 30 years. 5 other couples. A busy but very comfortable stay. That evening we drove to Salvage a very beautiful village on the ocean and walked around. We later learned that Peter Manbridge has a property there and that the majority of properties were owned by Come from aways with many American owners.

    This morning we drove a short way to Sandy Cove away from Twillingate. Sandy Cove has this spectacular beach supplied by adjacent eroding cliffs of sand. The second sandy beach we have seen in the last two days but it was larger than the other. Probably a km in length. We chatted to a local who worked remotely for CMHC who was walking his Cairn terrier. Just as we were leaving the sun came out and it felt glorious.

    After a brief stop in Gander for lunch and groceries we continued on to Boyd's cove where there was a museum dedicated to the Beothuk indigenous people of Nfld. The Beothuks had numbered only 700 on the whole island. Archeological digs had discovered remains of a Beothuks village at Boyd's cove. It was a beautiful spot with an open meadow, a beautiful beach, a small river. It was very peaceful and the sun came out. There was evidence that a village of 30 to 60 people had lived there between 1600 and 1750 with some evidence of habitation dating back to 1000. Who better to chose a great spot other than these people. The Beothuks met a sad ending. Devastated by European diseases, think TB, smallpox and measles. Aren't we having a measles outbreak in Alberta now. They were also hunted and killed by Europeans. The last Beothuks died in 1829 of TB.

    Another 45 minutes down the road and we finally made it to our Air BnB in Twillingate on Bayview road. We had heard of Bayview Road before our arrival as at least 2 couples we had met in BonaVista had told us about an iceberg which had become marooned on the bay by Bayview round. We met our Air BnB host Jeanette and after our orientation she insisted that we drive another few kms down the road to see the iceberg as it was melting. The iceberg despite having melted was pretty impressive. It consisted of a large spike and smaller flat section. It appeared huge. Probably 50 meters tall 200m off shore. There were a lot of people again with big cameras photographing it. It was like some sort of religious experience with all these people preying to it. We partook in the heathen summer solstice ritual before heading back to our cabin. The drive days really tire is out.
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  • Giovanni Caboto

    June 20 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Today was dedicated to Giovanni Caboto, an Italian from Venice who discovered North America. I kid you not. He was under charter from the English King Henry 7. Of course through this explorer the English could make a claim on North America so for histories sake his name was anglicized to John Cabot. Personally I always thought that he was an Englishman but I have been corrected. Bueno Vista claims to be the site where Giovanni landed on June 24, 1497 but researchers only know that it was somewhere between Cape Breton and Labrador. There was a whole museum dedicated to Giovanni and for the 500th reunion of his landing in 1497 the local tradesmen and boat builders built a replica of Giovanni's ship the Mathew. The queen even came for the celebration. Of course for insurance purposes they weren't actually allowed to sail the vessel and they ended up having to build a dry dock for it afterwards but it had created some jobs for Newfoundlanders so all was good. I wonder if their insurance broker is Monnex Meloche who are currently charging me a small fortune for my car insurance.Cheryl was so surprised at how small the boat was when we got to go on it that she asked the guide if it was a scale replica but it was the exact size. Only 20 men and it would have been the size of a small tug boat. The trip was 30 days coming and 15 return. He went the following year with 5 boats but never returned.

    After the Caboto museum we headed over to the Ryan buildings. James Ryan was a fisherman/merchant/business man who's house and warehouses had been turned into a museum dedicated to the fishing and sealing industries. I was very diligent and read many of the information boards. It reminded me of being on a grade 6 class field trip where one would have to answer and make notes on obscure senseless topics of no worldly significance. Such as. List 8 types of knives used in the fishing industry and the particular function of each knife. List the different types of boats used in the seal industry comparing and contrasting their design. What role did women play in the cod fishery and how did this role hasten emancipation? No wonder I got so stressed out in elementary school. After a couple hours I was in information overload from all of the sign boards I had read so we headed back to our BnB for lunch and a nap .

    When we awoke from our nap it had gone from cloudy to sunny and warm. We headed out to the Beunovista Lighthouse on the point because who doesn't like a lighthouse on a warm sunny day. There was a sea stack off from the point covered with even more puffins. Fortunately we had the one eyed binoculars. We wandered around the point looking down on the cliffs and ocean. We even found a statue of Giovanni. We did happen to see this sign warning us of the dangers of Hogweed. I had never heard of Hogweed and I thought this was rather odd that there were no signs warning of the obvious cliff danger but there were signs warning of Hogweed. After our hike, I checked it out on the Internet and this is what I found:

    Giant hogweed sap can cause severe skin irritation, blistering, and burns when exposed to sunlight, a condition called phytophotodermatitis. The sap contains toxins that react with sunlight (UV radiation) to damage the skin. If sap gets in the eyes, it can cause temporary or even permanent blindness. Changes can persist for 5 years.

    Holy crow. This sounds like poison ivy on steroids. I will have to be careful from now on.

    After the point we went to a coffee shop known as the Bicycle Picnic Cafe looking out on the harbour. On a sunny day the views were impressive. We played a game of Scrabble and Cheryl was happy because she won and only had to cheat a little.
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  • Trinity Newfoundland

    June 19 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    When driving up yesterday we passed the fishing village of Trinity. I noticed a sign on the side of the road advertising Historical Walking Tours daily at 10 am. Trinity had been on my radar as it is known for its historic preservation of its old buildings and churches. I checked the tour out online and learned that the tour was led by a retired St John's school teacher who was originally from Trinity and had moved back in his retirement. For 15 dollars a person it sounded great. We arrived having to drive down from Bonavista in the fog with only a few minutes to spare. There were 20 of us on the tour and we recognized some of the other baby boomers from our hike the previous day. We had hiked the loop counter clockwise while the majority of the people had hiked clockwise.

    From Kevin our guide we learned that the Trinity area had been first explored in 1500 by the Portuguese but soon became a destination for English fisherman from Poole who would come for the summer with servants they had picked up in Ireland. Think slaves. Cod fish were caught dried and shipped back to England in the fall. It was a tough life for the servants. To maximize profits they would sometimes leave their servants behind in order to take more fish. The English government finally banned this practice as being left behind meant certain death. The English merchants initially discouraged residency in Newfoundland but by the 17 century this was inevitable. The merchants were then able to capitalize on trade with the resident fisherman. The merchant fisherman became very rich over the years and developed family dynasties all based on trade and bringing fish back to England.

    Kevin regaled us with stories of shipwrecks and fishing accidents as we walked around town learning the history behind some of the buildings. What appeared to be special about Trinity compared to other towns in the area was that they had formed a historical preservation society in the 60s with the goals of preserving the buildings they had and had enacted building codes to ensure all new builds conformed to the style of the 19 century. Their efforts had led to the preservation of some of the older churches and buildings. Walking around town it was difficult to tell the new builds from the old. Kevin told us that there were 3 companies in Trinity busy year round in the preservation/ construction industry. The main industry in town was now tourism. After the tour, Cheryl and I walked around visiting some of the houses that had been preserved and opened as museums to the public. It was like Fort Edmonton but with some of the historical houses being occupied by their owners. By 4 pm we were growing tired of looking at historical fishing Nic Nacs so we drove back to Bona Vista.

    I have finished my first book for my holiday: The Shipping News by Annie Proulx. Set in Newfoundland it is about a character who moves to reinvent himself after a troubled period of his life. It gives one insight into living in a small Newfoundland town in the 90s and the characters that one will meet and the adventures that will be had. Very enjoyable.
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  • Cape Spears

    June 17 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Just 20 minutes south of St. John's is Cape Spears, Canada's most easterly point. There has been a lighthouse at Cape Spears since 1830. Around the lighthouse was built a large square house for the keeper. The technology for the light for the historic lighthouse had changed over the years but everything else had remained the same. A new lighthouse had been built in 1967. The last lighthouse keepers left in 1996. During the war batteries manned by Canadian and US troops had been built to protect St. John's from attack.

    We took a Parks Canada tour which took us along the tops of cliffs first at the point and then up to the new and then the old lighthouse. It was a sunny clear day affording us some spectacular views of the ocean.We toured the old WW2 batteries. At the most easterly part of Cape Spears where we stopped for a photo, I asked one of the Parks Canada staff when they had last seen a whale from the park. The brochure we had picked up at the parks Canada office had said that sometimes one could see whales from the Cape however I was somewhat skeptical of this claim. The interpreter nonchalantly told us that Hump backed whales and their calves and Minsk whales had been seen all morning off the Cape. They had just arrived from the Caribbean where the calves had been born. No sooner had she said that than a Hump backed whale breeched off shore. It was quite surprising to see. There was significant whale activity off the coast. We finished the tour and had our lunch at the height of the cliffs and watched all sorts of whale activity. The mother whales were teaching their calves to breech, show their fins and wag their tails in the air. The interpreters thought this was an activity that the calves needed to learn to allow fishing. We watched one mother and her calf wagging their tails above water for a few minutes. I caught a short video of this. Astonishing. Cheryl talked to a local photographer who was out for the day as a regular and she thought that there were 25 Humpbacks with calves off the coast. Eventually we tired of the whales.

    We headed back to St. John to visit the small fishing village of quidi vidi. It was essentially a suburb of St John's but afforded a nice picture of the harbor. We tried to visit the Quidi vidi brewery for a snack but it was full. Cheryl wanted to check out the university and health sciences centre. It was very large and modern. We were starting to flag by then. We stopped at a Running Room store which was close to our condo to buy me a sweatshirt which I had forgotten. We hit a local coffee shop the Rocket before heading back to our Condo. The hump back whales were the hit of the day.

    All in all I have been quite impressed with St John's. Cheryl remembers the wood houses flaking off paint and looking a little run down. I realized that the majority of the houses were now clad in vinyl or Hardiboard siding so the flaking paint look was all gone. The government buildings looked all very modern. Lots of newly built houses. Roads in good shape. People looked good. No more obesity than Edmonton. Perhaps more elderly. Far less homeless than Edmonton. All the transfer payments that we Albertans are making to the other provinces seem to be going a long way to improving the lot of people here in St. John's. I did notice paying the 15% sales tax while in Alberta we only pay 5.

    Off to Bona Vista tomorrow and the Puffins.
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  • St John's

    June 15 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had an uneventful trip to St. John's on Saturday and took a cab to our Air BnB which is in a modern condominium in an old school. It is quite nice and very quiet. There is a 3.5 hour time difference with Edmonton so we didn't go to sleep until 12:30. Of course we didn't get going in the morning until 10:00 because of the jet lag. Our first stop on our Sunday agenda was the Rooms which is the name of the provincial museum. It is a modern museum that from the outside looks like two huge outpost houses joined centrally together by modern glass. It had a museum, natural history museum, a museum of the 1st Newfoundland Regiment and art galleries. Cheryl made a beeline for the 1st Newfoundland Regiment. Newfoundland during WW1 was essentially it's own country and fielded their own soldiers and sailors separately then Canada. The Newfoundland Regiment is best remembered for the Battle of Beaumont Hamel on July 1 which was part of the larger battle of the Somme. Of the 800 Newfoundlanders who took the field that day, 740 were killed or wounded. The museum really tried to personalize the soldiers many of whom died. The art gallery was quite good with a mixture of current painters and historical painters. A Y Jackson loved painting in Nfld. There was some great indigenous art including a large sculptured whale skull. After the Rooms we wandered the streets, checking out the beautifully coloured wooden houses affectionately known as Jellybean Row houses. We walked the length of Water street which was mostly restaurants and bars before heading back to our accommodation and a salmon supper.

    Today Monday we picked up our rental car. Fortunately I had booked it months in advance as when I initially starting researching Newfoundland the advice I read was book your car first. A driver picked us up at 9 and all went smoothly. The car rental agency had no cars left other than our rental, a little Hyundai Venture. Chat GPT suggested a day trip to Bell Island on the west side of the Avalon peninsula 30 minutes from St. John's. We missed a sailing of the ferry and had to wait for an hour for the next ferry. Talked to a local who reminded me of Relic from the Beachcombers a TV series set on the west coast. He complained about island life, the ferry and too many tourists. We saw only a few tourists on the island so I wondered if he was prone to over exaggerating things. We went to the local museum to do an iron mine Tour. Iron mining on the island from 1905 until 1966 was the main employer and created great prosperity. Think Fort Mac Murray. It was interesting to learn how the mines went way out under the water of the Cumbrian strait. The tour recently had become a video as the mine had been deemed unsafe. Fox our guide start and stopped the video multiple times to embellish it with his own stories. Fox had grown up on the island the son and grandson of miners only forced to move away for employment when the mine closed. Interestingly many people moved from Belle Island to Cambridge Ontario to work in a factory that made mining equipment. Some of these people including the guide had returned to Belle Island in retirement.The museum also had local history exhibits and an exhibit about 5 iron ore transport ships that had been sunk by a u-boat in WW2. Interestingly the captain of the u-boat' s family in Germany had donated all of his medals and military records to the museum. A letter of commodation signed by Adolf Hitler was on display. I would not have realized that if the guide hadn't pointed it out to us. We drove around the island stopping at a Greebe nesting area requiring us to walk through a tunnel whose roof was shored up with wood. It looked more dangerous than the mine we weren't allowed to go in. We continued around the island to the beach off which the ships were sunk and finally to the lighthouse before driving quickly to catch the 3:45 ferry. Monday evening we drove up Signal hill for some spectacular views of the ocean and harbor. We watched a large Ship enter the narrows and proceed into the harbor. Both days we have been blessed with sunny 20 degree weather.
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  • The adventure begins

    June 14 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Well oh, Lukey's boat is painted green,
    Ha, me boys!
    Lukey's boat is painted green,
    The prettiest boat that you've ever seen,
    A-ha, me boys a-riddle-i-day!
    A-ha, me boys a-riddle-i-day

    When I was a young boy growing up in London Ontario we would sing this Newfoundland folk song in our music class. I think we sang some other songs about Newfoundland but I can only remember the lyrics to Lukey's Boat. The Newfoundland band Great Big Sea recorded it in 1994. They probably sounded better than my grade 3 class. Although London Ontario was 3200 km from St John's Newfoundland, I have always had a kinship with Newfoundlanders or Newfies. Maybe it was singing these songs that started this attachment. Over the years, I have been privileged to know Newfoundlanders who have left their homes to work in Ontario or in Alberta or Saskatchewan. All in all Newfoundlanders seem to have a reputation for hard work, gregariousness and fun. They are all great talkers. Newfoundlanders are funny people, think Rick Mercer or Mary Walsh (2 famous Canadian comedians). Some of my favorite writers are from Nfld including Michael Crummey, Lisa Moore, Wayne Johnston, and Megan Gail Coles. I love the band Great Big Sea from St John's .Despite my affinity for Newfoundlanders and Newfoundland, I have never been there. Canada is a large country and we gather our personna from many parts of Canada. Whether one has travelled to Newfoundland or only met or worked with Newfies, this small island province has made a significant impact on the Canadian identity.

    Newfoundland is a large island off the east coast of Canada. It was initially settle by vikings in 980 AD. But they didn't last very long as the environment was too harsh. It was rediscovered by the explorer Jacque Cartier in the 16th century and colonized by the Europeans mainly Irish and Scottish fishermen in the 17th century. Newfoundland was a British colony until the 20 century when it became it's own country or dominion. In 1932 because of financial problems which is a reoccurring theme in Newfoundland history it went back to being a British Colony. It didn't become a province of Canada until 1949 only after the second refendum. Newfoundland has always been one of the poorer provinces in Canada and this has resulted in extensive migration to the rest of Canada. That is why it is so common to meet Newfoundlanders in other parts of the country especially here in Alberta. It seems that every BnB owner I talked to in planning the trip has at one time lived and worked in Alberta.The deterioration in their economy worsened when the fishery collapsed in the 80s and 90s from overfishing. Off sea oil has helped but has never been sufficient to fill the gap left by the fishery collapse. The province recently got into financial troubles over the development of a hydroelectric project. Initially billed as an energy project they could use to sell clean electricity to the maritimes and New England, it went tremendously over budget by billions of dollars. The federal government had to provide funding to prevent provincial bankruptcy. Newfoundland is an underdog province but we Canadians love an underdog

    I always thought I would have a medical conference in St John's but now 30 years into my career, I am given up hope. This is my bucket list trip. Cheryl lived in St John's for 4 months when she was in physiotherapy school . This will somewhat be a homecoming for her. We will fly from Edmonton via Toronto to St. John's. It is 6200 km and we will travel through 3.5 time zones. Nine hours of travel time with lay over. After 4 days in St Johns we will drive to Bona Vista, Twillingate, Fogo island and ending the trip in Gros Morne National Park over about 2 weeks. This will take us from the east coast up to the North coast and eventually to the west coast. We will fly home from Deer Lake.

    I will be trying to post every couple days but after the initial invite you will have to check in for further updates. I hope you enjoy our adventures.
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    Trip start
    June 13, 2025