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Route Verde

May - June 2023
This is a blog about my bicycle trip to the province of Quebec with my neighbours Ray and Julia. Quebec has an awesome system of bike routes throughout the province known as Le Route Verde. Read more
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  • TravelerRoute Verde
    Day 1

    Montreal airport

    May 28, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I am sitting in my hotel room just by the Montreal airport enjoying my breakfast and watching the planes take off. Yesterday was the start of my Route Verde bicycle holiday led by my intrepid neighbours Ray and Julia Cislo. I think this will be our 4 or 5 bike trip together. With Covid over we have decided to travel farther afield than western Canada. This year's trip will be in Quebec. Last year while on vacation with my family in Quebec, I realised that the have an elaborate system of bike routes both within the urban centres and between cities known as route Verde. Our plan is to bike from Montreal to Quebec through the Eastern townships and then to return via the north shore. We will then bike North to Mont Tremblang on a rail trail known as Le Route de petit train de Nord. Our trip will be for three weeks. We will be unsupported and we will camp along the way.

    Yesterday we flew with our bikes and equipment from Edmonton to Montreal. We packed our bikes in EVOC bike bags. Thanks very much to Tanya Durant for lending me her bike bag. It is always a bit of a production travelling with bikes. We had to take our pannier racks, fenders, pedals, handlebars and wheels off the bikes and squeeze them into the bike bags. Thank goodness for Ray's mechanical abilities. Cheryl and the Cislos son Eric dropped us off early for our 12 o'clock flight. All went smoothly and we were off on our adventure.

    We arrived in Montreal at 6 their time and then had to wait for an hour with everyone else for our luggage. The only snag of the trip was that Air Canada had gone through Ray's duffel bag and confiscated his camp stove, empty fuel bottle and his chain oil and unpacked his tent and sleeping bag and thrown everything into a large plastic bag. It was all the more frustrating as he had declared the stove and fuel bottle to the AC staff when he had checked his luggage in. AC allows stoves and fuel bottles. I had checked my bag through oversize luggage also declaring my stove and fuel bottle and my stuff had made it through. We will have to make a visit to the MEC in Longmont today to get the Cislos a new stove.

    Then came the fun part. We had to reassemble our bikes. That took us about an hour and a half. I was quite proud of myself as I was able to do much of the assembly by myself with only a little help from Ray. I By then it was dark and we had to make it to our hotel located 1 k from the airport. We were all a little nervous as the map showed only a major highway system around the airport. Ray and Julia noticed Air Canad employees leaving the terminal on electric bikes. They were using the bikes to get to the parking lots where they parked their cars. One offered to show us the safe way to our hotel. With lights flashing and our fluorescent vests on we followed her the back way on some unbusy streets to our hotel. Despite my no exercise day, I was quite tired after all of the travel excitement of the day and had an early turn in.    Read more

  • TravelerRoute Verde
    1
    Day 1

    St. Jean de Richelieu

    May 28, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    We had a big day today. 76 km but the majority was on bike paths. We left Dorval at 9:30 and once we had figured out that we had to go through the Dorval LRT station to get across the Via rail line it was pretty smooth biking through Montreal much of which followed Lachine canal. I think everyone was out biking in Montreal today and why wouldn't they. It was sunny and beautiful. One of those days where it is great to be alive. We crossed parts of the St. Lawrence on a very long bridge to Ilse de Helen and then to Ilse Notre Dame. Wonderful views of downtown Montreal. Ilse de Notre Dame was where Expo 67 was held. We biked by the residence build for the Expo which even today looks funky. Isle de Notre Dame is where the Formula One is now held. We got to bike along some of the grand prix route. By lunch we had made it to Longueuil on the south shore. We needed to go to MEC to get Ray a new stove and bottle and some fuel. We hit an IGA for a food stop. We didn't leave Longueil until about 2 and by then it was about 32 degrees and quite hot. The tail wind that we had changed direction and it moved to our side. We made slower time. We continued out of town on Route Verde 1 towards Chambly. Still on bike paths following a canal. Around Chambly we missed our turn and continued on the south leg of Route Verde one in error. We ended up in St Jean de Richelieu and had to get off the route Verde onto major roads to get to our campground outside of town known as Camping des cedres We will be able to hook up to our route tomorrow by taking the south route.Read more

  • TravelerRoute Verde
    1
    Day 2

    Yamaska National Park

    May 29, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We started the day at an RV campground 10 k West of St Jean sur Richelieu. We had a 30 minute bike back into town on a highway 219 but it had good shoulders before we rejoined Le Route Verde. For the rest of the day it was a very pleasant bike ride on a rail trail. Rail trails are old railway lines that have been torn up and turned into biking hiking trails. A small amount of the trail was stone but the majority was paved. The great thing about rail trails is they have a gradient of only 1-2 % which is very pleasant. We passed through Farnham and then Granby all pretty Quebec towns of eastern townships. The trail took us right through the middle of farmer's fields and Carolina forest. It felt like I was back in Ontario. Lots of pink flowering Trilliums along the sides of the trails. In areas trees had grown along the trail which offered us some break from the 20 k northwest wind and produced a tunnel effect as they hung over the trail. It was very pretty. For lunch we stopped in Farnham and ate at picnic table looking across the river at a majestic church. We made it to Yamaska Ntl park. It is much nicer than staying in an RV park and being a Monday night it is much quieter. We ate our supper by the lake and are going to have an early night. It is going to be hot tomorrow and we are going to awaken by six for an early start.Read more

  • TravelerRoute Verde
    1
    Day 3

    Magog

    May 30, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We were up earlier today and away by 8:30 as we had another long day as we were going to leave the rail trails and start some elevation. We were visited by racoons last night but fortunately everything was secured in a storage locker. We provisioned in Waterloo for lunch before heading off on a very straight road which we presumed was a rail trail that crossed 2 valleys before coming to Orford National park. The two valleys had descents of 200 metres. We also had a lot of climbing to do through Orford National park as this is the tip of the Appalachin mountains. We had initially planned on staying in the park but decided to push on for anothe 20 k for a campground past Magog. By the time we got to Magog we were pretty spent. After fortifying on some food we headed to the beach for a swim. We made it to the campground but are quite tired. Julia and Ray found a public piano so they were quite happy. No public violins though. 72 k 800 metres of elevation. Off to Sherbrook and beyond tomorrow.Read more

  • TravelerRoute Verde
    Day 4

    Richmond

    May 31, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Another long day. We stayed at a campground last night on the edge of the town of Magog. We are getting going a little more quickly in the morning as we were away at 8 :15. We started the day on rail trail which was good but then transitioned to a variety of road and paths. We had some navigation problems in the morning. We followed the route verte when we should have followed a regional trails we are doing a hybrid route. This cost us about 4 k as we had to backtrack when we realised our error. We made it to Sherbrooke for lunch. Pretty city. After provisioning at a Provigo we headed off towards Windsor and our final destination a campground in Richmond requiring a very steep climb from the valley. The heat which maxed out at 30 degrees today slowed us down . 78 k 800 metres elevation. I think tomorrow we are back on the rail trails.Read more

  • TravelerRoute Verde
    Day 5

    Plessissville

    June 1, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We made it to Plessisville today. It was pretty well all rail trail from Richmond. 88 k and 250 metres of elevation gain. We made it to Warwick by lunch town where we provisioned at IGA. It was another hot day hitting 35 degrees by the time we were in Victoria. We bikes by a sprinkler park. Ray and Julia ran in with their bike clothes on but I discreetly changed into my swimsuit even while being canvassed by two Mormons from Raymond who were canvassing. It felt good to cool off. After Victoriaville we were again on the rail trail but it ran by a busy road it was very hot. By the time we made it to Plessisville it looked like there was going to be a massive thunderstorm and it became very windy. We made it to our campground 5 k West of Plessisville and despite some thunder the storm didn't amount to anything. Off to Quebec tomorrow and hopefully it will be cooler. We didn't get lost today as we tried to keep a closer eye on Google maps.Read more

  • TravelerRoute Verde
    Day 6

    Quebec and the wind

    June 2, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Yesterday we had another early start and were away by 8:15. The blackflies were bad last night and the mosquitoes were bad in the morning. Nothing like biting insects to get one going. The bike trail followed the railtrail for the majority of the trip. We stop at old rail stations that had been converted to tourist stops. Julia had been watching the weather and couldn't believe how much cooler it was in Quebec City. Sure enough we hit a town called Lyster at which point we bikes through a marked temperature gradient and it became cooler. The wind also picked up and became very strong. The weather report suggested 40 to 60 km gusts. It was tough work biking. Fortunately the trail was lined by vegetation. When we got to Quebec City we had to cross the Pont Quebec, one of the world's tallest or longest cantilever bridge. I can't remember exactly what it was. There was quite a narrow biker pedestrian path on the edge of the bridge. With the wind howling down the St. Lawrence it was a difficult crossing. We obviously had to walk but even that was pretty difficult with two loaded bikes. I could feel my helmet being pulled off my head the entire time.

    We are now in Quebec staying at the Deux Lyons. It is an old house converted into a B and B hotel. It is very luxurious after the camping.Two nights ago we called the Laval summer residence. Initially they said that we could stay but then they emailed us half way through the day telling us they were full. Thank goodness for cellphones. This place was on the Route Verte website as approved and is actually close by to where Cheryl, Madeline and I stayed last summer. It seems rather luxurious after the camping.

    This morning I headed off by myself and did the Parcs Canada tour of the fortifications of Quebec. I think Quebec City is the only walled city in North America built by successive French then English governments. Saved from demolition by Governor General Lord Dufferin. Parks Canada always puts on a wonderful tour. This afternoon I biked to Canadian Tire and got some more white gas, did laundry and visited a bike shop to get my tires pumped up. We are heading out for supper again tonight.    Read more

  • TravelerRoute Verde
    Day 9

    Portneuf

    June 5, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We have made our way from Quebec City to Portneuf on the North shore, about 82 k. We ended up spending 3 nights in Quebec at the Deux Lyons. Julia and Ray hadn't been to Quebec before and wanted an additional day. I spend my second day walkin the old town, visiting the Battle of the Plains of Abraham museum and the Art Gallery.

    Today after taking lots of photos of us leaving Quebec we headed off on Route Verde 5 along Le chemin Du Roy or the Royal road. This was the first road built by the French Canadians between Quebec and Montreal. Lots of beautiful new and old houses many in the traditional design. When you think of Quebec, this is what you think. It was much more hilly than the rail trails but worth it for the scenery. We are camping in Portneuf and it is a little smokey from the forest fires.    Read more

  • TravelerRoute Verde
    Day 14

    Mt Tremblant

    June 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We have had 3 busy days of biking. After leaving the Romanian wedding place we continued to cycle along the chemin du Roy but the charm was lost. As we approached Montreal the roads became busier and it was more urbanized. We came through a town where the pharmacy had caught on fire that morning. Every fireman and his truck from the area was there but they had put it out by the time weRead more

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