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  • Day 234

    How to Surf (by Lewis)

    April 8, 2023, Bay of Bengal ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    I took surfing lessons in Weligama, Sri Lanka and it was really fun. Sri Lanka has the best starter surfer beaches there because there are consistent waves, no rocks, soft sand, and chest deep water. Gliding on a surfboard can be really exciting once you get the hang of staying up. Learning to surf is an amazing way to clear out your mind and focus on one thing.

    Before you start surfing, you need to gather the supplies. Those supplies include a surfboard, a bathing suit, and good waves. A good wave is a not-too-big, not-too-small wave. After you get the materials, paddle out, using your hands, into the surf. After that, you need to find a good wave. When the good wave is thirty feet away, turn the board around, by paddling, a one hundred eighty degree angle. When the wave is about ten feet away, start ferociously paddling forward. Let the wave catch you and start standing up. To stand up you need to: push up in a pushup position, then slide your back foot up to just about a third of the board from the back, and finally, push up, with your hands, on the board while sliding your back foot up and past your other foot. Don't forget to keep your arms out for balance; otherwise you'll fall off!

    Riding the waves is a great way to clear out your brain and focus on one thought. With only a surfboard, a bathing suit, and some waves, you can empty your mind and have a good time. Surfing was really exciting for me, and I want to share that excitement with you.
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