Ireland

October 2024
A 9-day adventure by Tige & Jocelyn Read more
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  • Day 2

    36 hours in Dublin

    October 19, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Elliot was already off for half-term and we grabbed Huddy early from school and went to Gid’s rugby match (they won:). Headed to Heathrow and after an hour delay took off for Dublin. We arrived at our hotel and went out for groceries and dinner at 930. Kids were happy and fed and we ended up all in bed by midnight.

    Up in the morning for our 10 am walking tour. We really enjoy the Guru walks. Guides are always super knowledgeable and give great insight on food and experiences around the city. We walked for about 2.5 hours around the city learning about their difficult history with the Vikings, the Norse and, of course, the British. We wandered the streets including the famous busker and shopping Grafton Street. We ended the tour at Christ Church which was beautiful. We had about an hour for lunch and went around the corner for lunch at a pub called Darkey Kelly’s for delicious bangers and mash, beef stew, burgers and pasta. I had my first Guinness in Ireland and it was so different from the US. Light and delicious.

    This morning we hopped online at 9 to pick up last minute tickets to Kilmainham Gaol (jail). It sells out months in advance but they release tickets for a few slots at 9. We were lucky 🍀 enough to get them and headed there for 130 tour. Barely made it! Super interesting and sad look at Irish history. Well worth a trip.

    Afterwards we grabbed the most delicious hot chocolate and mocha from Butler’s cafe. We walked around Trinity college and down Grafton street (where one of our favorite movies ‘Once’ was filmed). Dinner in a local pub packed with people, live music and Irish dancers. Home at 10 pm so we could all read to sleep.
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  • Day 3

    Galway

    October 20, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    After a late night walk across the Ha’Penny bridge to dinner, we found the Dublin landmark Spire. Hard to see in the dark but an odd 400 ft tall needle in the middle of town. Its purpose is unclear but it was certainly interesting.

    In the morning, we took an Uber to the airport to pick up our rental car for the 2+ hour drive to Galway. On the way, our walking tour was cancelled as Storm Ashley made landfall with red flood and wind warnings. 35-45 mph winds for the last half of the drive. We were able to find an open seafood restaurant (great fish chowder and fish and chips) before we went shopping for swim trunks since our Galway plans had to be shelved. After we checked into the hotel, we made our way to the pool and sauna for a couple of hours as the wind storm continued outside. We decided to order pizza in and watch the third Batman rather than make our way outside again. Sleeping in the same hotel room made for a late night but at least we all had beds.

    After packing up and showers, we had dinner at a local cafe right by the coast. The sun is out and the waffles and Irish breakfast were delicious. The wind is still strong but at least the rain is holding off for now. 1.5 hour drive to the planned hiking spot. Hopefully the 35mph gusts subside on the drive.
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  • Day 4

    Cliffs of Moher

    October 21, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    After breakfast we made our way to a small village called Doolin, along the Wild Atlantic Way, which has the trailhead for the Cliffs of Moher walk. The drive through the countryside was gorgeous, with tons of sheep and cattle and beautiful stone walls marking each plot of land. Super green in the sunshine. You used to be able to hike the 13 km trail from Doolin to Liscannor, but they closed the southern half of the trail in April this year due to safety concerns. We hiked from Doolin to just north of the visitors center, about 6 miles out and back. We walked in the low 50 degrees against 25 miles/hr wind with occasional gusts that made me nervous that one of the boys was going ton fall over. A bit of rain, but way better than we thought it would be. Not many people on the trail which made it even more special. We had a standing picnic at the top and then headed back down to the town. The views were gorgeous. Photos don’t really do it justice. The kids were amazing hikers as usual. We did a little bit of shopping at the craft store by where we parked and packed up for the 1 ish hour drive to Limerick. The roads here are substantially larger than England, but people drive on the left, which was surprising. The host of our Airbnb met us at our apartment and we dumped our bags and went down the road to The Glen Tavern. Standard pub fare, food was fine, though not super special, but we had really kind service.

    Hopefully a great night’s sleep is ahead for all. Excited for tomorrow and to head to Killarney, which will be home base for the next 3 nights.
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  • Day 5

    Killarney

    October 22, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We checked out of our lovely BNB in Limerick and made our way to Killarney. Most cities in Europe are twinned or sisters with other cities. The US sister cities for Killarney included Springfield, Illinois, which we thought was appropriate. Killarney is so lovely and we had planned a trail ride when we arrived. Everyone has been on a horse before other than Hudson and we were all excited! The weather looked dismal on our drive, but once we arrived, we were met with blue skies and a lot of sun. It was gorgeous. We arrived at the stable and met our horses (Butters, Shayann, Tony, Peter, and Sive). After a few nervous tears a lead was attached to Tony and our sweet Huddy. We had a fantastic ride through the gorgeous Killarney National Park. Lakes and open green land, trees and so many deer. Literally, 40 does and a couple of bucks and then an entire field of bucks without mates. Gideon’s horse Butters was pretty spicy but he kept him in line. We had a bit of a scare when Elliot’s horse took off trailing screams when we were all trotting. She handled it super well and laughed it off and finished the ride after the caught her and brought her back. We were so relieved.

    After the ride we gathered supplies while the kids relaxed. We went for a nice dinner at Bricin and tried Boxty (a traditional potato pancake filled with lamb and chicken. The desserts were the real stars (a super yummy chocolate cake and a fruit crumble. After dinner, we walked the high street and popped into a few wool shops. So many beautiful sweaters. We walked for about an hour and then headed home.

    Right to bed and up early for a day on the Dingle Peninsula.
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  • Day 6

    Dingle Peninsula

    October 23, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We set an alarm this morning so we could get on the road to the Dingle Peninsula. It was another overcast day but no rain and only a short 75 minute drive to our first stop at Inch Beach. Big waves and lots of shells - would have been a great place to visit in the summer. After Inch, the town of Dingle was only 20 minutes away. We did some window shopping before finding Murphy's Pub (just like we remember in Champaign :) ) for lunch. After lunch, we popped into a local market to find some Dingle 'berries' - the boys were happy to oblige. Then, we had another short 15 minute drive to Eask Tower. Built as a solid tower in the mid-1800s to help guide ships to the Dingle harbour, we didn't realize it was at the top of a 600 foot 'hill'. It was quite a climb and we were greeted by 50mph winds at the top. Fortunately, the views were certainly worth it. We could see for miles around and it was the highlight of the day. It was still in the low 50s today and so it was nice to get out of the wind but glad we made the climb. There was a local leather shop at the bottom that we ducked into while the kids waited in the car before our final stop at Blasket Islands. Fortunately we had amazing views from the road this time and no climbing required. Came right back home for showers and pizza so we could watch Everest together (the kids are infatuated with mountain climbing right now). Ready to head to Cork tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 7

    Blarney

    October 24, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Up earlier today to drive 1.5 hours to Blarney. The longest short drive ever made. Lots of curvy backroads the whole way there. We were initially going to skip Blarney Castle based on what we had read in a couple of places that we trust for travel reviews, but with an 80% chance of rain, we decided to skip the ring of Kerry and head to Blarney. We went straight to the castle (which was amazing and well-preserved) and did the obligatory kiss of the Blarney stone (which is supposed to bring you eloquence as a superpower). Winston Churchill and Mick Jagger reportedly have the stone to thank, though I'm not sure how eloquent the latter actually is. They used to dangle you over the edge and you would kiss it from the side of the castle, but thankfully they removed some stones so you lie on your back, hold onto the rails and arch back to kiss the bottom stone. There was also a kind gent spotting you to make sure that you do not slip through the hole:) We then spent a lot of time in the castle and walking the grounds. We enjoyed the poison garden, the druid stone circles and jungle walk. The kids liked the playground and we actually did not get rained on, which was great. We ended up enjoying the castle and gardens so much that it was a bit late to make the trip to Cork for lunch and we found a local spot to grab lunch (a pub of course). We sat by the fire and left with full bellies. Elliot's beef and veg stew was the winner for sure. We hopped back in the car at about half past 3 and headed back to Killarney. Tige cooked for us tonight and he and I took a walk on the high street while the kids played Monopoly. Sad that the trip is nearly over and have enjoyed our time together more than anything. Tomorrow we head back to Dublin with a few fun stops on the way.Read more

  • Day 8

    Rock of Cashel and back to Dublin

    October 25, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    Had to pack up and leave our Killarney AirBNB morning. A two-hour drive before a carside lunch and then into the Rock of Cashel. It was a cold and windy day but actually had some sunlight. With connections to St. Patrick and the tooth of the Devil, the Rock of Cashel was perched on the top of town with beautiful views. We enjoyed the overlook to Hore Abbey as well as the fields of sheep and cows. After departing, we made our way back to Dublin for our last night. We passed near the Tullamore DEW distellery but it was another two hour drive to Dublin and kids weren't allowed on the tour so we kept going. We saw 4 different rainbows on the way but were lucky to avoid any significant rain. After an early check-in, we made our way to a local toy store that we had seen last week and let the kids explore for a bit before dinner. Walked right past the Dublin needle/spire and got to see it in daylight this time. Did some window shopping before Joce found a ramen place around the corner and we had a delicious meal. Sushi, ramen and broccoli were the highlights. A short walk home for a short movie before bed in our hotel. One more afternoon in Dublin tomorrow!Read more

  • Day 9

    Return to Dublin

    October 26, 2024 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We got a very nice hotel and slept in this morning. After packing up luggage into the car, we made our way to brunch in Temple Bar. Bordered by the River Liffey to the north, Temple Bar is a cultural area originally named after a land owner (William Temple) in the 1600s that built his home along the river banks. Now there is actually a bar in the area with the same name that many mistake for the neighborhood (and also makes for a nice picture). We had a yummy (tho very slow) brunch. Giant bowl of beans was a hit with Hudson and the Irish breakfast was very filling. We had to walk off our food and did some more window shopping along Grafton Street and found the location for the opening scene to the movie Once (now right outside a Disney store, which we obviously also visited). From there, it was off to the Ireland Archeological Museum. The highlight were the very well preserved (if not fully intact) bog bodies. One even had a man bun with shaved sides of his head - I guess every fashion comes around, even 2400 years later. Still, a little too lifelike so I found them creepy. From there, we headed back to pick up our car from the hotel and drove to the enormous Phoenix Park. The 1750 acre park just outside of central Dublin was beautiful. Given the late hour, we chose not to visit the zoo and instead found a playground. Mom got to show off her hopscotch skills while Gideon rolled an ankle trying to figure it out. On the way back, we walked past the Wellington Monument obelisk as they were setting up for the Dublin Marathon tomorrow morning before finding the car and driving to the airport. Dinner and a final Guinness before boarding. We got very lucky with the fall weather and look forward to seeing Northern Ireland next time we come back. Late arrival into Heathrow but get to sleep in our own beds (and rooms) tonight.Read more