Your Buddha is a wonderland

I had a 0530 pick up at the hotel this morning, so we could make our 7am flight. We flew from Yangon to Bagan. As we approached the landing, I could see stupas popping up all over the countryside. The golden tops glimmered in the morning sunshine. I was very excited to get started, and the car was ready for us, upon exiting the terminal.

We started with Shwezigon Pagoda, which was similar to Shwedagon yesterday, but a little smaller scale. That also means fewer people. I think I may have liked this one better. It was radiant, when the sun broke through the clouds. It has four lions standing guard on each corner and wish-fulfilling trees lining each side of the pagoda. Starting at the middle of the stupa, red stairs appeared to pour down each side, a dark contrast against the shimmering gold. Surrounding the pagoda were several other stupas of varying form and color. Some were plain and others quite extravagant, such as the one with mosaic, multi-colored mirrored tiles, with a large Buddha gazing downward. Some of the structures were red, others white, and many accented with gold. Outside the complex stood five large bells. I gave one three good gongs. As it was explained to me, the strikes are for the Buddha, the dharma and the sangha, with the sound carrying out to all beings, in all realms, that they might receive some benefit from my merit. We’ll call it my good deed for the day.

As we drove to visit more stupas, I was amazed at the landscape. Stupas, large and small, were everywhere. Literally. There are over 2200 temples and stupas in this small area. Residences back right up to them. Some are in disrepair from earthquakes, but most still stand straight, though the plaster on the outside is missing in chunks. My favorites are the ones with plants growing out of them; a testament to the time they have stood.

We grabbed lunch at a local restaurant. The seating was in a square building with tables and chairs, and the food was cooked in the owner’s home, behind the building. I had a chicken curry, which came with several small dishes that to be added. Not sure what the first one was, but there was a very tasty blend of onions, peanuts, chilis and tamarind; a sweet mash of corn; some dried soy chips; and a pile of tiny dried shrimp with chili, which I did’t try.

Although I got checked into the hotel and had a short rest, we were back touring the area in no time. This afternoon we visited a temple with four Buddha’s on the inside, looking out to each direction. The statues stand over 30 feet high, completely enveloping the chambers in which they are sequestered. The guide said that one of them was relatively new (last 100 years or so). Apparently a nun fell asleep at the feet of the Buddha, while her candle burned...and burned...and burned up the Buddha. The replacement looks nice and matches the other three in the temple.

As we drive around, I wanted to stop the car every 20 feet to jump out and take more pictures. The buildings are everywhere, and each is unique. I’m looking forward to tomorrow, when I take a hot air balloon ride over the area and can get a grander view of the stupas.Read more