Another set of stairs

We started our day with another set of stairs. This time about 100 more than the caves. Before leaving Luang Prabang, we opted for a hike up Mt Phousi. The mountain is named after a hermit, who took residence in a cave and taught the people about Buddhism. At the top of the mountain is a stupa dedicated to the monk, Si. About halfway up, there is an overlook, where we took a few minutes to take pictures and enjoyed the view. A bodhi tree, given as a gift from India, provides shade and a place rest. But not for long. We commenced the stairs again, zigzagging our way to the top. The view of Luang Prabang was beautiful, and we took it in from all 360 degrees. In the distance we could see a large pagoda, as well as the confluence of the Mekong and the Nam Khan Rivers; both flow on either side of the town. We descended on the other side of the mountain, where we got to see a Buddha footprint. This was on my bucket list, so I was very excited. Supposedly the Buddha left footprints both as a symbolic reminder of the path, as well as an actual demarcation of his presence. There are about 3,000 of these footprints in Asia, but I’ve never actually seen one. This one was preserved, with a small structure built around it. The footprint was about 5 feet long, with heel and toe impressions very clear.

Leaving Mt Phousi also meant leaving Puang Prabang. We drove south, toward Vang Vieng, with the intention of enjoying the scenery. Laos is about 70% mountains, so we were looking forward to taking in some beautiful views on our four hour drive, which included “comfort” stops and a lunch break. Unfortunately, the wet season was unkind to the roads, so the conditions made for a much longer drive. Also, there was rain and low lying clouds, so we didn’t get to see the peaks we had hoped. But there is always beauty to be had. The cloud covered peaks seemed mystical. Karsts shot up and into the heavens, and we could not tell how high. Occasionally, there would be a break in the clouds, and we could see that the mountains reached fairly high altitudes. One of the passes, where we got out and walked in the fog, was over 3,000 feet in elevation. We started out at about 1000 in Luang Prabang.

We stopped in a small village (Kari) for lunch, then worked our way south to Vang Vieng. Along the way, we saw several farms, where the rice harvest was underway. All of them were cutting the rice by hand. Sometimes there would be a single person cutting the rice and other times there would be a whole team of 6-8 people working the field. We watched as they swung a sickle across the stocks, leaving a wake of rice piles as they moved. We also saw farmers tending to other crops, such as hops, corn, and rubber trees. Cows and buffalos walked freely along the road, though we were told that you have to pay the other farmer, if your cattle tramples their land.

On arrival in Vang Vieng, it initially stopped raining, so we walked to dinner without our rain jackets, but we got to the restaurant in time to avoid the rain...and then a downpour. We weren’t in a hurry, so we waited. When 7:15 came, we decided it wasn’t going to stop raining, so we headed out into the weather. It was coming down slowly and it was warm, so it wasn’t bad. I’m just hoping that my clothes will be dry by morning.

I’m not crazy about Vang Vieng. Compared to Luang Prabang, it is louder and more active. We read that several years ago the government had to put a halt to some of the partying in the town, as it was getting out of control. It had become a heathen’s delight, where young backpackers drank themselves into stupors and did ridiculous things. It still has a party vibe and there are 20-somethings everywhere, looking as if they haven’t been home in months. I’m happy that we are only transiting here and leave for Vientiane in the morning. I don’t see myself returning here in the future.Read more