The Way Old Friends Do

We hopped the train(s) down to Lewes to spend the day with Kim’s old friend, Amy. (See the previous trip “Hiking the Moors and Highlands” for more fun with Amy) Amy used to live west of the hogbacks in Loveland, before moving to Lewes. She’s been here over 10 years but living in a new place since last we visited. She built the UK’s first zero carbon bed and breakfast on the hill overlooking Lewes. Unfortunately, the effort required to run a B&B by oneself is close to Herculean, so she got out to the business, after three years of home detention. She gave us a tour of the house, with its guest quarters, and we promised to return soon for an extended stay.

After a look around, we packed up the dogs and headed to Seaford Head Nature Reserve. From the car park, we walked over the hill to the top of the cliff, overlooking the sea. The ocean was calm and, at low tide, had receded quite a way from the stairs to the beach. Just to the east, Amy pointed out the Seven Sisters Cliffs; chalk escarpments, glowing a blazing white in the sunshine. The cliffs seem surreal in height and color, juxtaposed against the blue water below. We decided to forego the steps to the beach and walk along the cliff and down to the beach on the other side of the hill. Along the way, we feasted on wild black berries; apparently a bit of an invasive plant in this area, so there was plenty to pluck off the shrubs. From there, Kim and I walked over the rocks and pebbles to reach the ocean, which wasn’t as cold as I suspected. By no means was it warm, though. Kim rifled through the rocks, finding art in broken flint and chipped chalk. While she looked through the remains of what was once part of the cliff face, I enjoyed the view and smell of fresh salt water. Awaiting us at the end of the trail was a little coffee shop with dessert. We sipped our drinks slowly, while visitors stopped by to pet the dogs.

Returning to Lewes, we put the puppies in the house and walked into town. Lewes is about 16K people, with its own castle, and old world charm. Never mind that they burned a bunch of Protestants in the 1500’s. High St includes the house of Thomas Paine and wee shoppes that specialize in a number of things such as picture frames. The Artwave Festival is happening now, so storekeepers exhibit local artists’ work in their shops, and you can just walk in and take a look. We enjoyed a few different places, some had paintings, and the last one had photos and pottery. We ended our walk near the train depot, where we had halloumi fries. The idea of eating fried goat cheese sounded not great, but I was assured that I would love it, which indeed I did. We shared some potato fries, as well as panisse chips, which I had no idea what they were either. In case you’re in the dark as well, they are a chickpea polenta, spiced, cut and draped in flour, then fried. They, too, were yummy. With our full bellies, we said goodbye to Amy, which seemed easier this time, knowing we’d be back soon for a longer stay.Read more