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The Curry Scurry

November 2011
I've always wanted to see the Taj Mahal, so when I found the right price, I bought the tickets. We will be on a tour the whole time, as we travel the Golden Triangle: New Delhi, Agra, Jaipur. Read more
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  • Abuse your passportThe Curry Scurry

    On your mark, get set...

    November 22, 2011 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 41 °F

    Work is done, house is clean, and we are packed. Tomorrow we leave for the airport for a very long flight. We travel from Denver to New York, lay over for a couple hours, and then sit for 14 hours. It will be the longest leg of the entire week, but it's better than not going at all! Hope to blog a successful arrival in New Delhi on Thursday night-about 10am on Thanksgiving morning, Denver time.Read more

  • Abuse your passportThe Curry Scurry

    Arrival

    November 24, 2011 in India ⋅ 🌫 66 °F

    We arrived in Delhi late in the evening but easily breezed through immigration and customs. Our ride was awaiting us, so things were getting off to a good start. The smell of smoke was powerful, as we left the enclosure of the airport. Just a couple of days ago, I had read the weather forecast for Delhi, and it said "Smoke." I didn't really know this was an option, since I usually expect things like “rain,” “snow,” “clear,” but not “smoke.” That’s a condition, not a weather pattern. However, I suddenly realized here that it just might be part of the weather. It creates a low layer of poor visibility, looks like fog, but doesn’t burn off (no pun intended).

    Anyway, the unfortunate part was the hotel was about another hour away and all we really wanted to do was lay our bodies down horizontally. The leg from Newark to Delhi was almost 14 hours straight and neither one of us got much sleep on the plane. We got to the Metropolitan Hotel at 10:30 pm. The guards at the front had the driver pop the engine hood to check for explosives, while others looked under the vehicle and opened the cargo area. Once we were cleared, our bags still had to go through an x-ray machine before we even entered the hotel lobby. Oddly, I didn’t feel as put out as I do with the TSA. Maybe because this didn’t require waiting in a long line, but this is not a place for my diatribe on the Homeland Security Department…

    As soon as we arrived in room 406, we threw our bags on the dresser and laid down for the first time in well over 24 hours.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportThe Curry Scurry

    Up and at 'em

    November 25, 2011 in India ⋅ 🌫 64 °F

    Way too soon, the morning arrived. I parted the curtains and took in the dramatic view of smoke. "Hmm, I wonder what the weather forecast is today?"

    We had breakfast in the hotel then met VK, our tour guide, for our orientation at 0830. As soon as he gave us a quick rundown, we were off. He did note this would be the longest day of the tour. More than likely, we wouldn't get to Agra tonight until about 9:30 (we actually got in at 10:30pm). No worries, there’s a lot to be seen between now and then. We started at the Birla Temple. It is a large Hindu temple built in 1938 by an Indian business man. VK gave us a great deal of explanation about the temple, the symbols, and the different gods. He also noted the same businessman built the Buddhist Temple that was just next door. Although I snapped a few shots, we didn’t tour that temple. The Hindu temple also had a dharamshala attached to it. This is a guesthouse that is offered free of charge to those making pilgrimages. Although the stay is free, the time is limited, as it is intended that you will be moving along in a day or two. Following our visit, we moved on to the government area. New Delhi is like DC, it is the seat of the government; it has lots of monuments, and it has an area that reminded us of the national mall. The park runs from the parliament down to the India Gate, which is a memorial to WWI Indian fighters, then continues on a bit farther. Because of the smoke, the visibility was limited and you could not see the length of the park from one end to the other; post cards make it clear that there are days that are clear enough to see the breadth of the area. (Did I mention that I got on the plane with a bad cold that has now become chest congestion? My poor, pink lungs.) At the India Temple, lots of school children ran around, and it appeared that a girls’ school was taking their student pictures there.

    The memorial to Mahatma Gandhi was next on the menu. A very simple marble slab marks the location of his ashes and an eternal flame burns at the head of the stone. Hundreds of visitors were paying respects and, again, many school children were having a field day. These kids were particularly lively, and very anxious to say hello, shake our hands and give high fives. I walked up the structure and just held my hand out, like I was going through a pep rally: high fives all the way up to the top!

    We fiddled around New and Old Delhi most of the day, having lunch at a local restaurant around 2pm. I had a spinach and paneer curry, while Kim went for the vegetable dumpling curry. Both were delicious and I ate the fresh naan until my tummy puffed out.

    We stopped at a local crafts store before embarking on the ride to Agra. As we drove, I observed a few things. First, there is very little reason for them to waste paint on the roadways, because nobody observes the idea of actual lanes. Secondly, you can put an engine on about anything and call it a motor vehicle, and then you can drive that motor vehicle on the roads that are narrow and have no lanes. Third, the honking of a horn is natural and should cause absolutely no alarm. And fourth, running lights are an option, particularly on the highway at night. Same with bike reflectors (that’s right, no street lights, no reflectors, no lane observance-wow!).

    My last observation for the day, though, is not the traffic, which could take up several more pages, but it is “smoke.” So here’s the deal. Fire is essential. Fire is used to cook food in the open, fire is used to keep people on the sidewalk warm, and fire is a popular method of trash disposal. These three elements combined (again, no pun intended, since I’m only talking about one of them), make “smoke.” It seems to be at its worst in the evening and early morning, I suppose because not as many fires are burning in the day time. I’m pretty sure there are very large particulates stuck to my lungs. I’m starting to hack like a lifetime smoker. But I’m not complaining-I’m grateful. At least I get to be in a nice hotel tonight, and I’m not sleeping with my head two feet from the road, warming my hands in a fire built in the gutter, or burning the trash I’ve gathered to clean my living area.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportThe Curry Scurry

    Dreams do come true

    November 26, 2011 in India

    Well, it was even more impressive than I imagined. For as long as I can remember, I've wanted to see the Taj Mahal, but I never thought that I would. I was never drawn to India, so I figured it would be one of those things I just never did. Looking back, I believe I wanted to experience the Taj because of its beauty. I think of all those pictures I’ve seen with the stark white marble set against the cloudless blue sky; the minarets jutting upward; and the large dome dominating the surroundings. And it was that and more. We arrived early and walked down a road to the West Gate. We had the experience of being segregated by gender, as the entrance line was divided for men and women. I have no comments on that process right now. Anyway, we entered the West Gate that opened into a courtyard. There are red sandstone gates on the east, west, and south that all open to the same area. The Taj is squared by the river on the north side. You still can’t see the Taj Mahal after entering the gate, but parts are visible from the courtyard. My first impression was the enormity of the structure. Although I couldn’t see the entire building, what I could see was enormous. We quickly passed through the next gate, which opens into the garden of the Taj Mahal. It’s the location where every picture you have probably seen has been taken. We snapped a number of pictures, then walked to the mosque, which is located to the west of the building. We then passed by the back of the building to the east side, where another building mirrors the mosque, balancing the space on both sides of the Taj Mahal. From here, we swung around to the front and got in line to view the inside. I took hundreds of pictures and didn’t stop until be crossed the threshold into the mausoleum; no photography allowed inside.

    Inside the Taj is cool and dark. A single chandelier drops down over the queen’s tomb, which sits exactly on center. Her king was placed there later and rests to the west of her. The inside, just like the outside, is highlighted by inlays of stone and carved marble. It is beautiful because of its simplicity. We finished our time at the Taj Mahal by walking the grounds and enjoying the landscape and the presence that the Taj commands. It is an amazing feat of man.

    The Taj Mahal was built by the king, Shah Jahan, to honor his wife who died in childbirth with their 14th child. It took over 22 years to build and is a monument to the king’s love for his wife. The building is actually a mausoleum, although the mosque on grounds is still active and in use.

    We returned to the hotel for lunch before venturing out again. We were scheduled to see the "baby taj" (the Itmad-ud-Daula) which is another mausoleum that was actually built before the Taj Mahal, and we were to see the Agra Fort. Unfortunately, we spent about an hour in traffic. We moved nowhere, as water buffalo and cows brought the vehicles to a standstill. Because of the traffic delay, we were only able to see the “baby taj” and will do the Agra Fort tomorrow before we leave.

    The “baby taj” is much more intricate in its carvings and stone inlays, though the structure itself is a lot smaller. It reminded me of the Persian art we had from Iran. The inlays were more geometric and the carvings felt more delicate. It too had buildings on three directions with its back up against the river bank. The grounds were similar, but there were less people and more monkeys here.

    We finished the evening over dinner at a local restaurant, where we got to watch a magic show and take in some dancing.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportThe Curry Scurry

    The love story continues

    November 27, 2011 in India ⋅ 🌫 68 °F

    We were up and out of the hotel by 0730 this morning. This tour is definitely not for the crowd that wants to take it easy. Last night was the first time I actually got to bed before 10, while most nights go until much later. But I digress; we took an early tour of the Fort. It was actually a good thing to get there early today instead of yesterday afternoon because the crowds were minimal. The fort is constructed of red sandstone and covers over two km of land. Surrounded by a mote, it sounds like it took good care of its occupants. Although we could see the Red Fort from the Taj Mahal, we weren't able to see the Taj from the Fort due to the haze (aka smoke). The Fort was also used as a prison for Shah Jahan (the one who built the Taj Mahal for his wife). The Shah’s son killed all of his brothers then captured his father. When he had secured the throne, the son locked his father up in the Fort. Despite being jailed, his father was granted a room overlooking the river, with an unimpeded view of the Taj, so he could forever be in the company of his wife. The grounds must have been beautiful back then, as there were gardens and water features throughout the Fort.

    We left Agra and headed toward Jaipur. Along the way we stopped at the Fatehpur Sikri, which is a walled city in the middle of nowhere. It was used only briefly after taking 15 years to build. Again, the architecture is red sandstone, which some has incredibly intricate carvings worked into it. The area we saw included gardens, the public courtyard, the private courtyard, the women’s area and the men’s area. The only place the women’s area connects to the men’s area is at the king’s bedroom. Tricky.

    I particularly liked the circular rock in the public courtyard. It was placed firmly in the ground and used in capital punishment matters. The offender would have his head placed on the rock and an elephant would then step on it.

    We drove another couple of hours before stopping for lunch, then forged on to Jaipur. Upon arriving, we got set up in our hotel, then went out for a drive. We saw several of the monuments lit up against the night sky, which I think may not be as impressive in the daytime. We also saw a large castle and complex, lit with flood lights, and hanging on the side of a hilltop. The driver took us to the restaurant for dinner and a cultural show of dancing and music.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportThe Curry Scurry

    Persistent Tenacity

    November 28, 2011 in India ⋅ 🌫 68 °F

    We got to visit another fort this morning that sits on the hills overlooking Jaipur. It is an impressive set of structures within walls that snake throughout the hills. The fort is just below a second one, where the active royal family of Rajasthan live. Although they don't actually rule any longer, they do get to stay on the grounds-a pretty sweet deal. It also is home to the world's largest canon. That’s a Guinness fact. Once we arrived, we waited in line with hawkers pressing down on us. They were relentless. No matter how many times or different ways you said no, they persisted. Everyone in our party ended up with something by the time we were rid of them. We made our escape from the hawkers on elephants…we thought. All the way up the trail, the hawkers were taking pictures to sell back to you. Kind of like a roller coaster ride but an early version.

    Each female elephant carries two riders up the steep grade to the fort. The animal’s prodding sways the riders awkwardly. Kim and I were laughing like little school girls. I think the elephant ride (excepting the Taj) has been my favorite part. The elephants drop you off in a main courtyard that is enormous compared to the other forts and palaces we have seen. We gathered all of our party and took a tour of the complex. At the end of the tour, to our amazement, we were instantly swarmed by the photo guys. Depending on your negotiating skills, you received a price of $1-$10 per picture. Kim bought three for $3. Others told the hawkers their bottom price, and they refused to sell. Our tour friend, Keith, went rock bottom but walked away without photos.

    We were gathered up and driven back down the 2km hill in old jeeps that carried six people at a time. We made a beeline for the bus door, as hawkers descended there, too. The bus was pulling away after a lot of hubbub, and Keith said, "Look, he followed me all the way down!" The photo hawker sought him out and finally caved at 3 for $1. Amazing!

    On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a palace built in the middle of the lake. It is recently renovated and a nice place. It must have been about four miles at least from the fort and sure enough, there they were: hawkers. They still had photos they were trying to unload to some of our tour group. They are persistent! I don’t even know how they got down there.

    We had lunch at the hotel and took the optional tour in the afternoon. It started at the observatory, which has the largest sundial in the entire world. That’s a Guinness fact. In addition, the area had all sorts of sun dials and measuring instruments that reflected the time, date, horoscopes, planet movements, and sun location. These are all very important for the reading of horoscopes. The Hindus are influenced heavily by horoscopes. For example, people will go to the astrologer to determine the most auspicious day to have their wedding, buy a house, take a job, etc. The instruments were beautiful, and it was amazing that they were so precise, given there was no machinery to assist in building the observatory in the 1700’s.

    Next we went to the City Palace. We toured the complex and its several museums. A wedding preparation was underway for a thousand guests. I thought about coming back later in the evening to crash the reception but figured I’d probably stick out too much.    Read more

  • Abuse your passportThe Curry Scurry

    A Very Long Day

    November 29, 2011 in India ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    At o’dark hundred, the wake up call came in. We were out of the hotel by 8am and headed for Delhi, via a couple of detours. Our first distraction was the Palace of Winds (aka Hawa Mahal). It lies within the walled “Pink City” of Jaipur. The nickname comes from the color of the walls and all the buildings inside. For the visit of the Prince of Wales, the city’s buildings were painted pink and the city code now mandates it. The Palace of Winds is actually a façade of numerous and ornate balconies commanding a presence over the street bazaar below. Each window of the building is screened, outlined by white painted designs. We took a quick gander at the building before plunging headfirst into the bazaar. The dealers offer ridiculous prices, which I returned happily. For example, I had my eye on a shawl, which he would reluctantly let me have for 4000R (that’s $90). “Yeah, I’ll give you 500R,” I countered (that’s $10). He looked at me with grave insult and started referring to me as “madam.” He came down a couple thousand, and so I went up to 700R. Feigning disgust, he then explained to me that this isn’t junk, he needs to make a living, the first sale of the day is the most important (please refer to Korean blog to see identical ploys), etc. We haggled a little more, and I walked out with two for $15. I strutted proudly down the street until running into the Thai woman from our tour group. She was cutthroat, “How much you get your shawls for?” she asked. I pumped up my chest and gave her the rock bottom deal. She sneered her evil sneer, “Should have come with me. I get three for ten dollar.” It was at that moment I realized I could never take a tour longer than a few days; otherwise, I might kill an innocent tourist by accident. Although we enjoyed almost all our other tour friends, the Thai lady and the fat family were a little much to bear from the beginning. But I digress, again.

    From the bazaar, we boarded the bus and headed north toward Delhi. We stopped at another shopping area before leaving the city limits. Kim drained my pockets for silk scarves, which were too nice to pass up, although I passed them up with no difficulty.

    The trip to Delhi was long, even though we were on the “Express”way. When I think of the word express, I think “autobahn” or I-80 in Wyoming. Personally, I think it’s stretching the term “express” if the fastest vehicle tops out at about 80kph (about 50mph), there is no minimum speed limit (for example how slow things like donkey carts, rickshaws, and camels move), and people frequently park in the slow lane. And construction. Anyway, I’m grateful because all I could think about was how it would have been on the non-expressway. The trip was broken up with lunch at the “Midway Hotel” which I can’t verify for you is actually midway between Jaipur and Delhi, but it was definitely halfway between breakfast and dinner. We enjoyed a lovely meal and got right back on the road to Delhi. Oh, I must tell you this…at lunch we found out that our tour friends Keith and Aaryn were at the observatory a little later than us yesterday. Guess what? A guy approached them with more of their photos on the elephant from the Amber Fort!!! Really. Half a day later and many miles in town. Wow.

    We arrived in Delhi by 4:30 and said goodbye to about half of our group. They were returning to the Metropolitan Hotel to rest up for their next adventure. Some were continuing to travel to other parts of India, and our new friends, Robert and Clark, were going to Nepal for a week. The rest of us took respite at a hotel near the airport, where we watched some cricket (luckily, my schooling from Judy in Barbados came in handy), drank some tea, and grabbed dinner. Unfortunately, Kim and I were on the latest flight but there was only one transfer going to the airport, so we had to wait at the airport until our 3am flight. Imagine my surprise when the security people wouldn’t let us in the airport to wait. “You must have a flight in the next six hours to enter,” the big guy said to me. Fortunately, he followed up this disappointing news with directions to the visitors’ waiting area, “You can wait there.”

    So, seven hours later, we boarded our flight to Frankfurt, where we only had to wait five hours for our connection to Denver. It made for a terribly long day, but we are grateful, as always, to be in Colorado, where people don’t honk much, the air is brisk, the sky is really blue, and there’s not a single hawker in sight. At least not yet.

    Top Ten
    10. Cows controlling the progress of traffic
    9. Eating Indian food every day until you get sick
    8. Watching Kim use a barf bag on the plane. It really can hold the entire contents of your stomach!
    7. Fresh naan every day
    6. Guessing where the guy with the pictures might next show up. I’m going to adopt that attitude toward my work.
    5. Watching little girls make cow poop patties to sell for fire fuel
    4. Meeting another person who wants to travel to Iran and enjoying his company. Sorry Kim...
    3. Enjoying the gracious and gentle people of India, who really like us from Obamaland (their term, not mine-although I might start using it)
    2. Riding an elephant
    1. Seeing the Taj Mahal in person. Wow.    Read more

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