Saint Louis

possums and pumpkins and beer.

I have officially arrived in the Midwest. There's lots of talk about god and guns and it's easier to get around by car. I'm enjoying the sun and the parks and the cooking. I've been to six flags and the arch and played lots of darts and said fuck it dude, let's go bowling.

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From Chicago I’m taking the train to St. Louis. It’s a direct route, 4 hours, incredibly comfortable and surprisingly modern. The view from the train beats the highway by far and everything goes smoothly. Train travel really deserves more popularity here.

In St. Louis, Del picks me up at Union station and I’m staying for a bit longer than anticipated since I can stay with him. It’s nice to be in a quiet neighborhood after two big cities—no sirens and a view into greenery.

I’m cooking a lot and even harvesting fresh vegetables from Del's garden. I’m savoring the chance to take things more slowly. I can join a yoga class and a ballet class, ride the bike through the huge park (with a free zoo again) and visit the botanical garden. I stop by the Gateway Arch, built in 1963, and the Fox Theatre, built in 1929, spend an evening at Six Flags and look at the Mississippi river.

St. Louis is very flat, with an abundance of space. You need a car to get around, and it’s clear that, long ago—in the early 19th and early 20th centuries—this place was lively and both nationally and internationally significant. But those days seem to be over—there are countless vacant buildings and factories and even on weekends, I find it hard to find a real pulse here.

Still, there are charming bars, cafes, and restaurants, and I’m really enjoying my time—playing a lot of Yahtzee, more Scopa, darts and bowling. The vintage shops are fantastic as always and I’m feeling a growing urge to buy a new pair of cowboy boots. We opt for a low key vampire costume for Halloween instead.

While I’m here, the trees are turning more colorful. It’s a truly beautiful autumnal atmosphere and we are planning a short camping trip to a nearby state park.Leia mais