Thailand & India 2019

Wake early for sunrise at “Ganga” (Ganges). Z wakes at 5:10 to turn hot water on for shower. M wakes 5:30, shower then out the shop side door by 6:15am. Walk out to main ghat, locals and one foreigner bathing in Ganges. Many touts asking if we want boat ride, not too pushy and respectful if you politely say “no thank you”. Walked along river passing many ghats. Some touts asking if Z is Japanese or Vietnamese. M&Z sit on ghat to take in beauty and people watch. Local man bathing w his family taking photos of his family bathing in river, intrigued by us just enjoying views and starts taking photo of us. Man urges wife to sit next to Z and took photo, man wanted to take photo of Z and his wife. Invited man to sit w Z and his wife for a photo. Breakfast at Spicey Bites and meet Nepalese staff member. Only place open for breakfast. Had toast, egg, roti pancake w cheese, roti pancake with Nutella and ginger lemon tea. 250 INR ea set. Walked around to find Another guesthouse for next 2 nights. Found Shiva Guesthouse and meet Kailash. Showed us fancy room and asking 2000 INR online, giving us 1500. Bargained low at 750INR, given a no. Got to know him more and found out about his rooftop restaurant. Said we will check out and probably have a coffee. Chatted more and Kailash agreed to give us room for 1000 INR but explained nice room is only available at that price for 1 night. He said if we wait 2-3 hrs, he can show us 2 other rooms that have a nice view of Ganga and he will also give to us for 1000 if we like. Took coffee at rooftop restaurant and met brother Shiva. Z had headache so rest at guesthouse 30 mins. Walked to popular Blue Lassi - papaya banana lassi for Z, coffee banana lassi for M - 160 INR. While eating lassis, saw a few families taking deceased to burning Ghat nearby. Ornate and colourful decorations on the dead. Walked to burning Ghat after lassi. Beautiful ceremony - families wash body with decorations in Ganga, then taken back up to Ghat for cremation ceremony. Beautiful. Walked to more Ghats to the south, see 2 boats being repaired. Walked back
to Shiva guesthouse to see other rooms. Not as nice as first room. Kailash explained that if we prefer the nicer room, he can make the room available for 2 nights (not just 1) and we can pay only 1000 INR - he says he believes we are good people and are nice. He said most tourists don't talk to him and just bargain rudely. Lunch at Shiva rooftop restaurant. First indian dish - plain Thali to share. Learn that children in Varanasi love to fly kites. Go to Top of building & such a beautiful sight - so many kites in the sky from rooftops!! Children playing game where they cut each other's kites down. If they cut one down, they run to collect it and it becomes theirs! Such skill with only one string on each kite. Walked out to closest Ghat, walked South and found another burning ghat, stayed longer to see a full ceremony. Walked further to Assi Ghat then back north to go back to Babu guesthouse. Rest until 1745h then headed to main Ghat to watch Aarti ceremony (prayer to the Ganges). Sat with locals for ceremony. Stayed an hour but left early before crowd - walked through alleyways and found restaurant for dinner. First full authentic Indian dinner - butter chicken (block chicken 😂) with garlic naan and rice, plain lassi 480 INR. M tired, walked back to guesthouse for early night. Set up mosquito net and bed at 2030h.Read more