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  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 14

    Day 15 - Goodbye London

    July 15, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After 14 days it was time to head home.

    Final packing done, checked out of home in London and car loaded, we headed out to Brentwood. The plan was to visit my Grandfather's grave in Brentwood cemetary then head to the Olde Dog Inn to have lunch with family.

    After driving over 2,000 kilometres around England without incident - some near misses and close calls mind you - it seems our luck was up. We had not driven five minutes from our London AirBnB when someone ran up the back of our car. It was a very low speed (like 5 KPH) impact. Luckily no one was injured, no air bags went off. Only minor damage to our car, however repair costs are surprisingly high on most modern cars, so I would hate to think what the repair bill would be. Mohammad the other driver at first just wanted to pay for the damage after admitting fault, but his smile soon faded when we told him it was a hire car. I think he thought he was going to talk his way into a cheap repair job. We took plenty of photos of the scene, exchanged details and logged the incident with the hire car company, and we were on our way. Too much of the rest of the day was taken up with collecting details, checking facts and filling in forms to hand in with the car at the end of the day.

    We were a little late arrriving at the Olde Dog Inn. It was great catching up with family and sharing the details of the past 22 years - all too briefly. It would have been better to have more time. After lunch we headed to the cemetary and found the Grandfather's grave then headed back to my cousin's house for afternon tea.

    By five pm we were on our way to Heathrow along the M25 for a showdown with the hire company. The traffic was reasonably free flowing with a few bottlenecks and some very slow traffic points. The handover with the car was non-eventful and we were quickly on our was to the airport terminal. The one rare time I opted for the nil-excess fully insured hire option semed to be a very wise choice indeed. Airport check in and we were boarding in no time, or so it seemed.

    For some reason the flights back took less time than going over. Plus doing the 13 hour leg first seemed to be a bonus. There was a three and a half hour stopover in Singapore and the Changi airport had a scheme where if you were flying with particular carriers, you quailifed for a S$20 voucher per person to use at the airport. We qualified and opted to use our vouchers to gain entry to the Ambassador Transit Lounge. The voucher gave us up to two hours in the lounge. Comfortable lounge seats, food and drink of your choice, free WiFi, and best of all SHOWERS. So it was great to relax and freshen up before the last leg home. It's still the best part of 24 hours in the air and jetlag is a bummer but that is the jet set life. Home at last.

    It's been an interesting journey but this one is at an end - sadly.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 14

    Day 14 - London day 5

    July 15, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After a very late evening last night, time for catch up sleep Saturday. After breakfast it was time for the guys to head for Duxford Imperial War Museum and the girls to head for Piccadilly and beyond. All round an easier final full day in London.

    Duxford is in Cambridgeshire about 50 miles or a one and a half drive north of London. It was an airfield used in WW2 mainly for Spitfires and surveillance planes and played a crucial role during the Battle of Britain. Now it is an extensive war museum over eight hangers. Many planes are on exhibit including; Concorde, Halifax, Spitfire, B52, Blackbird, U2, Phantom and F111 to name a few. It's a huge museum and extremely good quality. Costs 18 pounds to get in and it is well worth the visit.

    The significance for me was that my dad was in the RAF during WW2 and flew in Halifax and Lancaster bombers. On Lancasters he was a mid upper gunner. Duxford have a Lancaster on display including a mid gunner turret. The display plane could very well have been one he flew in. He had at least two planes because he was shot down over France and managed to get back to Britain with the help of the French Resistance. Sadly the Lancaster was not open for viewing because I would have loved to get on board and see what it would have been like to sit in the gunner's turret. It must have been a scary experience to sit in there for hours, scanning the sky looking for enemy fighters, anti-aircraft fire exploding all around, shooting the enemy as they approached and eagerly awaiting the return fight successfully home. Night after night.

    The museum has a working airfield and various aircraft including a spitfire were flying during the afternoon. In September 2017 a Duxford Airshow is planned to commemorate the Battle of Britain. It should be a good show.

    With tiredness showing we decided to call it a day and head back to London.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 14

    Day 13 - Paris

    July 15, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    And now for something different.

    An early start today. Up at 4am so we can be at Kings Cross St Pancras station to get the Eurostar to Paris to spend Bastille Day 2017 with the French. Check in, UK border outgoing and Euro border incoming all without a hitch. Boarded the Eurostar and your realise how similar to a aeroplane it is, with a little more space and roominess. Sitting two by two is a bonus. Reasonable leg room even in second class. The seat could be a little more comfortable by way of better adjustment and padding. It's about a two and a half hour journey so a blink of an eye compared to cross-continental travel. The train reaches speeds of around 160 MPH. More on that later. The trip was smooth and uneventful. Paris is one hour ahead of London so you loose an hour and pick it up on the way back.

    Getting out of Gare Du Nord (Paris train station where the Eurostar stops) you notice the difference in architecture. And of course the drive on right which is a shock the first intersection you come to cross - which way do I look!!!!!!! The area around the station is chaotic. We had gone not 20 steps before a hooded woman holding up a scrap of paper with written in English 'money'. Beggars are ever present. We had to get some Euro so headed to an ATM. Off putting were beggars in close proximity to the machine. Sure enough as soon as the cash was delivery they were harassing us for some ready cash. Opportunists. Many of the beggars weren't the usual local kind, but rather refugee types. Whether they are refugees is a debatable question. It is the card they are playing.

    The real Paris. This is a beautiful city. Certainly beautiful architecture. Some words I would use to describe Paris: stylist, ornate, opulent, graceful, open spaces, spectacular, flowing, structured, and planned. In the city heart at least that we traversed, the streets were wide. The building well kept and matching and complementary. There was no 'old' buildings set against 'new'. No highrise. The architecture is definitely different to London. The French have done an excellent job of controlling development to preserve the city's uniqueness. If a building was under construction or repair a tasteful scaffolding and facade complete with mural was erected so it looked less out of place. There is centuries of history, mostly preserved for current generations. We did a hope on hop off bus tour and a river cruise to take in the sights. It's not a cheap city to explore, eat or stay in. They see you coming and you will pay.

    Being Bastille Day the usual vibrancy of the city was different. If you were after retail therapy you would be disappointed as many of the stores were closed. There was an exceptionally heavy police and military presence. Some roads were still closed off from the procession early in the day and the Eiffel Tower was cordoned off. No terrorist or radical was going to spoil this day. The military even had rocket launchers in the city center. Getting around was relatively easy. We didn't use the Metro but in hindsight should have. Stations are positioned at all the major attractions so it is easy to pop up where you want to. Driving around I was struck by how wide and open the city was, then it dawned on me, there were no overhead powerlines. No visual dis-amenity. Everything is underground and the lamp posts are old world stylish. It made a big difference to the feel of the city. The wide boulevards and promenades designed by or for previous kings and presidents. Remove the cars from the streets and you could imagine being back two, three, four hundred years.

    When in Paris do the the Parisians do, eat out. Well being day visitors we had to. Coffee at an independent cafe. Not that we could find a Starbucks but I'm sure they are there. Lunch was baguettes - literally the best ever anywhere - and dinner, well dinner was a functional thing. We had thirty minutes until check in and by now everyone needed a loo, so Burger King was the chosen one. It did the job but not even french fries. The food was different though and in keeping with the French quality tradition.

    When we checked in, got through Euro and UK border checks and customs we were told our train had been cancelled. There was an electrical fault in the channel tunnel so we would have to see staff to be rescheduled onto another train. Now I certainly didn't like the thought of being stuck 75 meters under the English channel with an electrical failure, so fix it and fix it good Chunnel people. In the end we were shunted onto a train leaving two hours after our scheduled service. We ended up getting to London three hours late. The train ride back touched speeds of 344 KPH which is the fastest on land any of us had been. There was a slight delay at Calais due the the 'Chunnel electrical fault' but we got through. Tired and weary. Home at one after being up at four made it a long day. It gave us a taste of Paris and a framework should any of us decide to return and explore further. It is not a city you can see in a day, or a week for that matter. Yes you could do the usual I've been to the Louve, Eiffel Tower, etc sort of stuff pretty quickly but there looks like so much more to explore, see and do, and not just in Paris, the city of love. It would really help to learn and speak a little French, especially if wanted to get off the beaten track.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 12

    Day 12 - London day 4

    July 13, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A slower start this morning. Off to see Camden markets and lock. Caught the train across to Camden Road and walked the short distance to Camden Town then the urge for coffee took hold, coupled with a misinterpretation as to what bridge we had crossed saw the search for the markets and lock abandoned. So we headed for regents park area nearby. Later relatives told us there had a been a fire at the markets and they were unsure if it was even open at the moment. Still we could have viewed the lock and possibly seen it in operation. Very ordinary coffee and scones at an independent cafe - a first in the disappointment stakes for us - and we were off to Great Portland Street to catch the tube over to Russell Square to meet up with relatives at the British Museum. Shock horror!!!! there was a signal failure and the tube through there was not working. We legged it to Warren Street and caught a tube then another and arrived at the Museum late, only to find a huge line up for a bag check and entry. It ended up we were 30 minutes late to the meet up.

    It was good catching up with cousins we had mot seen for 22 years. In the space of an hour and a half we partially spanned the 22 years.

    My now the desire for lunch removed all rational thought - or so it seemed - and we made a beeline for a nearby Italian restaurant at Holborn. A great meal and we were recharged to continue exploring. The girls to Piccadilly and the boys for a London Walk discovering the Blitz during WW2. We arrived at the designated meeting place at Exit 2 St Pauls tube station, paid our 10 pounds each and proceeded to be educated and entertained about the Blitz. The devastation of areas of London, the miracle that St Pauls itself was left largely intact and became a beacon of defiance and strength for Londoners. We learned of the air raid shelters and life under the bombing, with the intensity over several months. The various monuments, memorials, and remnants that serve as a reminder if only you know where to look. A highlight for me was a memorial to all the books lost during the Blitz. With the bombing of libraries and paper stores in particular, so many books were lost forever. London can be noisy and chaotic and at times it was difficult to hear the lady Walk guide. After an hour and a half we decided to end our association with the walk and head home.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 11

    Day 11 - London day 3

    July 12, 2017 in England ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Kensington palace was first on the agenda today. After a train, a tube ride and short walk we were there. The fast track entry was a breeze, especially as there were many people waiting to buy tickets. A right royal palace. Well preserved and regal. Kings state rooms, Queens chambers. Princes William and Harry live there but not in the sections open to the public. It's a huge place with excellent grounds.

    We had arranged to meet an old family friend - well family member. Gary was married to one of my cousins, but sadly they went their own separate ways years ago but we still kept in touch, albeit sporadically. He works for the British Olympic Association so we went to his offices in Fitzrovia. Gary showed us the various Olympic torches on desplay. Some very impressive. The Torch tradition started with Hitler apparently and continues to this day. After viewing the torches and gleaning British trade secrets to be passed on to the Australian Olympic Committee (just joking) we all headed to Marks & Spencers to grab some lunch and we headed to Regents Park. Great lunch and conversation. It was good to catch up with Gary again.

    Next was a tube and train ride to Kew gardens for the afternoon. What an impressive and well laid out garden. The highlights were the huge glass houses for the palms and lilies. Stepping inside reminded us of tropical Queensland. Stepping back out into the London air and breeze was refreshing. Usually it's the other way around for us. Then there was the impressive high tree-top platform you can walk up stairs to and catch the elevator down from. Great to walk in the treetops. The Garden was closing early at 5PM as there was a live concert being held in the night so we left and cought the hour and fifteen minute train ride home.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 10

    Day 10 - London day 2

    July 11, 2017 in England ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Have seen the long queues and throng of visitors at Westminster Abbey, the plan was to get there early to see the Abbey. We arrived only to find everyone else had the same idea. It was packed. No priority access for London Card people meant we had to line up too. The line moved quickly and we were in within say 30 minutes. An awe inspiring place. Reading names on epitaphs revealed a whose who of history with a lot of unfamiliar names to. Seems at times someone who tended the king's dog on some occasion was assured of a place. The Abbey is a labyrinth of rooms, alleyways, halls and tombs. Well worth a visit and rich in history. Bummer was no photography is allowed inside.

    After exiting the Abbey it was time to seek out the closest independent cafe for coffee. One very discerning and very English lad made ordering rather comical. Being close to the Thames, we decided to catch a river cruise to Greenwich. The trip took a bit more than a hour and traveling past from of the recently re-developed (well last 20 years) areas of the London. The Docklands including Canary Wharf and Isle of Dogs. On arriving at Greenwich no one could go any further without lunch so it was into the Old Brewery Greenwich. A rather tastefully decorated and restored building. It had huge kettles, kegs and pipes against one wall that looked like a brewery complete with On/Off/Stop buttons but I'm not sure it was real or operational. The giveaway for me was the fact they didn't have an 'made on premises' beverages, only the usual Englich brands. It was a nice lunch.

    Next to tackle the walk up to the Observatory. It was a pleasant walk through the park-like area, until the final climb up a steep ramp near the top. For a moment there I thought I was Sir Edmund Hillary. Once at the top there were many queued for something, but the London Pass got us fast access. You could spend a lot of time in the observatory reading about the advances and discoveries about astronomy and timekeeping. It always amazes me how early astronomers created tools, created and tested theories and made discoveries in early times. Today we start from a knowledge base and understanding that they didn't. Overall, the last part of the walk (climb) made for a short stay.

    On the agenda for the day was to see the Tower of London so we headed back on the light rail and tube, leaving about an hour to see. Barely enough time under usual circumstances, however, it had begun raining (yes this in London, the Melbourne of the north) so come 5pm everyone was ready for home. Another great day of exploring.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 9

    Day 9 - London day 1

    July 10, 2017 in England ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    The first task of the day was to find the nearest London underground or train station. Luckily one is 700 metres away and the travel time into the city centre is around 13 minutes. Oyster cards are the flavour around here for public transport. Maybe after the fact that the world is your oyster. We opted to go with a seven-day travel pass so we could hop on and off and get around for the week without having to be concerned with topping up the card.

    All aboard!!!! As expected the train ride was quick into Liverpool Street then a tube ride to Tower Hill. We activated our hop on and hop off bus tour for the day, boarded and made our way to Buckingham Palace. After the obligatory coffee we made it in time to see the changing of the guard. Quite a spectacle. On board the bus tour and got off at Baker Street. By now we were tired of overland travel in London. The traffic just makes it a slow and unpleasant experience. Some of the commentary was good but most rather boring. At least the pass was for only one day.

    Lunch at the Sherlock Holmes Bar in Baker Street . No Moriarty insight. Then it was time for underground travel. We arrived at Tower Hill and made our way to the Pier to get our free tickets for 24 hours of ferry travel. The trip to Westminster was a great ride with commentary by a young Londoner who was very entertaining and made the 40 minute trip pass quickly. A quick look over Westminster Abbey - from the outside as it was closed by now - and it was time to call it a day. Tube and train back home.

    So the first day in London was an orientation day. Get the lay of the land and work out what we wanted to do and see and what we didn't. A more planned day tomorrow - hopefully.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    1
    Day 8

    Day 8 - Stonehenge & Salisbury

    July 9, 2017 in England ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today was the last day of our extra-London component of the trip. What better way to do that than to go back to the Neolithic and Celtic era with a visit to Stonehenge and Old Sarum. Check out and an hour and a half drive on a Saturday saw us arrive in Salisbury. We decided the best way was to do a guided tour with entry included. About 29 pounds a person. The bus trip was informative and enabled us to jump the queue.

    They may look like a pile of old stones, and that may well be right, but if the archeologists are to be believed the stones themselves came from a good way away. An incredible feat in an era without cranes, hydraulics, freighters and the like. The stones themselves have been placed, replaced, moved, and removed over centuries. Looking at them you can't help but wonder. Now I know some among you will say they look no better than the latest portrait from an abstract painter, but then again you also probably believe we descended from apes.

    After lunch back in Salisbury we headed to Old Sarum for a look. Not a lot to see remaining of the construction(s) and you have to use your imagination, but again much seemed to be accomplished using primitive tools and materials. The buildings there were built and rebuilt over many centuries and it hard to imagine where earlier eras begin and end and assimilate with the more modern (1000s and 1200s). At least someone still remember how to make concrete mortar from Roman times - at this point in time at least. Somehow the technology was lost until closer to the 1900 century. The size and scale of the former buildings is amazing and the earthworks undertaken to move mountains, create them and build moats is astonishing.

    In the afternoon we bid farewell to Stonehenge, Old Sarum and Salisbury to drive to our London accommodation for the week. It seemed as if the whole of England (and half of Tokyo) decided to have a day out on the UK motorways and A roads. It was traffic chaos, espectially as we got closer to London. Arrive we did with a vow to use the car as little as possible this week and take public transport as much as possible. Time for a change of pace.

    And that brings we to an assessment of English housing. That which we have experienced. I could go on about little things like the way showers are turned on and off and operate. Some strange systems that must be logical to someone. The past three nights we have stayed in modern houses, constructed within the last five years. It reminded me of Tiny Houses. At one point I thought there must be a BBC film crew around because these houses were perfect examples of how much you could pack into a small space and miniaturize rooms. It was cramped and hardy any room to swing a cat. Our stays have been much mire comfortable in older style houses, tastefully decorated and modernized where possible. I am a tiny house devotee but when you have absolutely nowhere to open a suitcase to live, there is something wrong. Give me character homes or spacious modern homes any day.

    A few photos to upload but I will try and pick the best of the bunch without overdoing it.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 7

    Day 7 - Bath

    July 8, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    A shorter distance driving day today. It's about a 45 min drive to the park and ride at Lansdown Road, then a 10 min bus trip into the center of Bath. No parking worries. Arriving before 10am seems to be a blessing in this part of the world. The squares and queues are less populated with tourists bused in and the endless school excursion groups who seem to visit. And a very educational and worthy place to visit.

    So the game plan was to go on a walking tour, a boat ride on the Avon, visit the Roman Baths and stay sane. Mission accomplished.

    In front of the Bath Abbey many sprukers ply their wares. We saw a young guy (this is about 20) handing out pamphlets for a walking tour. The cost free and if you enjoy it you can make a donation. Walk starting at 10am. Brilliant time to grab coffees and chill a bit. Found a great independent (yes this is an ongoing theme) cafe who make great coffee and who have very tempting brownies etc. At 10am return to in front of the Abbey and it is full - people everywhere. Some dressed in suits. Hmmm these can't be ready for a walking tour. The tour starts and the be-suited ones don't join which is great. A party of about 30 follow the be-hatted young guy. He guides us around and narrating various sights and features of old Bath. I won't go into his dialogue or walk in detail, rather point out some facts.

    In the Bath area the archeologist types reckon they have found evidence of the ancient Celts going back 10,000 years and of course the Romans 2,000 years ago. Most of the visible architecture appears to be from the Georgian era and since. Bath was bombed by the Germans during WW2. Not because it had any strategic military target but because it was 'pretty'. There was a tit for tat 'war' going on with the Germans with each side selecting targets to upset and offend the enemy. The walk guide pointed out various walls around the city which still bear the pock marks from machine gun fire from the German fighters and bombers.

    Back to the be-suited people in front of the Abbey. According to the walk guide they are attending graduation services today for the children or acquaintances who attend exclusive private schools in Bath. The tuition fee per term 30,000 pounds. That's an expensive education.

    Back to the walk. The walk guide pointed out various residences in the square and also took us to the Royal Crescent. Some very interesting homes and architecture, surprising for the 1700s when people were dying from all manner of diseases which are now preventable. He also rattled off famous people who live or have lived in them. He mentioned that John Cleese is a permanent resident of No 8, so I have included a pic of his door for all the Monty Python. And before you comment - No I didn't knock on his door, No I didn't see him or look through his window, No I didn't ask him if he could still do the silly walk or if he paid for an argument. I have included a pic of his door for you. Our walk guide was a bit of an anti-royal, anti-nobility authority. He was entertaining. After 2 hours in the English summer sun the walk was over. We gave him 10 pounds for his troubles and he seemed to do quite well out of tips so hopefully he will eat tonight.

    By now it was time for lunch and to top up water. We found a brilliant baguette place and went and say in the park away from the before mentioned tourists and school excursion kids. Next we follows Mr Apple Maps to the Pulteney Bridge to the riverside dock to catch a scenic river cruise. Luckily there was a boat about to leave and it had space for a few more so we hopped on and away we sailed. An eclectic bunch of sightseeers. The Avon appears to be a thriving and living river. The cruise goes from the Pulteney weir up to the Bathampton weir, past fishing locals and paddling canoes and watercraft. On board also were a group of girls on a hens party event. One of whom, possible the bride to be, had the loudest voice imaginable and during the cruise talked almost non-stop about trivial topics for all to hear. Maybe she had already had a few drinks and she didn't need many more to be lethal. Pity the poor guy who is married to her, or marries her. He is in for a tough life.

    With the cruise ended we headed for the Roman Bath House tour. Earlier in the day we observed the line up and estimated it would take an hour or two to get to the head of the queue. Now later in the day the queue was a more 20 mins. We entered the exhibit and were amazed at the story and what the Romans had done some 2,000 years ago. There engineering ability and attention to detail was amazing. The area has hot springs and the Romans harnessed these in the bath house. All remarkably reserved - albeit under later generations of construction. Well worth a visit.

    By now the party were exhausted. Caught the park and ride bus back and headed to our home away from home.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 6

    Day 6 - Birmingham & The Cotswolds

    July 7, 2017 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We came to the conclusion, rightly or wrongly, that there wasn't much for us in Newcastle-under-Lyme. Or more appropriately, there was more for us elsewhere. It was a transit stop. Somewhere to break the journey and rest for the night. It filled that need reasonably well. Could have been better.

    Heading south at 8am, the traffic was quite heavy. After some navigation mix ups we were our way to Birmingham. Why you might ask - Bournville village. The Cadbury story. All about chocolate. We often overlook the humble hot chocolate and chocolate for the masses, getting lost in Lindt and Guylian. Cadbury world is a bit glitzy maybe, more suited to the school excursion, of which there were several while we were there. I was more interested in the story behind the heritage and social work of George and Richard Cadbury in the 1800s. They shared their success and prosperity with their workers, providing worker housing, education and support services unique in the day and consistent with the Quaker tradition. Much of those buildings and houses still stand. After hot chocolates and rich chocolate cake it was back on the road. Next stop the Cotwolds.

    I had a cousin who had retired from London to Bourton-on-the-water some years ago. They have since passed on - literally - I believe. We made this our point of visit and stopped and had lunch. Bourton-on-the-water is noted as the Venice of the Cotswolds. There are a series of canals that run through the town making it unique, expectantly on a summers day. We had lunch in an old English pub and strolled by a canal, zipping over the stone footbridges. Many of the buildings constructed using local stone with dry-stacked stone walls along boundaries. After spending a couple of hours there it was on the road once more. The Cotswolds, very worthy of a visit and spending a lot more time exploring.

    We arrived in Swindon with the temperature nudging 28C in the afternoon. A beautiful summers day and much of the long-day driving for the trip behind us.    Read more

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