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UK July 2017

July 2017
A 14-day adventure by Brian Read more
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  • TravelerUK July 2017
    1
    Day 1

    Day1 - Great Rybugh

    July 2, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After 24 hours of flying time from Brisbane Australia to London UK we picked up our hire car and headed north. First stop was Cambridge, the university city. Arriving on a Sunday with what appeared to be bicycle events on was probably not ideal. Traffic gridlock on the roads = frustration. However this is the land of queues and traffic chaos at times. First assignment was a Carphone Warehouse store to get U.K. SIM cards and plans for our phones. The GPS hadn't been advised that the shop have moved, but after a yarn to some locals we found the new location. After getting technologically provisioned next stop was lunch. Settled on a pub counter lunch complete with local ales.

    Heading further north on A and B roads saw us land in Great Ryburgh at our AirBnB, outside Fakenham. Great accommodation- clean, secure and well appointed. The building dated back to the 8th century in the foundations and 14th and 15th centuries in other construction, having undergone upgrades and modernization since. While being comfortable, the centuries of history and bygone days are clearly evident. With the effects of jet lag and first days travels we refreshed and retired for the night.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 2

    Day 2 - To Quadring (Spalding)

    July 3, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Up early we explored Great Ryburgh. A casual walk found the Crisp malt factory, the parish church with it's classic Saxon tower, and village housing complete with Manor House and servant quarters. We had planned to head for Nottingham before seeking out our next accommodation for the night. Upon realizing this would entail some major back tracking, we decided instead to explore Boston and Skegness. Boston was a clear full place, maybe a little tardy in places. After getting some U.K. cash for incidental expenses - parking meters etc - next stop lunch. Found a great cafe with staff speaking with Eastern European accents rather than the customary English lilts. The food and service was good. We explored The Stump (the city cathedral) and even climbed the tower. What an adventure that was. The ancient stone spiral staircase was amazing - challenging to master - but well worth the £5 and effort. The view from the top is amazing. Next the drive north to Skegness to get our first nostril-full of sea air and get sand between our toes. Well worth the trip. Even managed to pull up a deck chair on the pier to soak up some British sun. Yes the sun doth shine.

    By now it was time to seek out a bed for the night. Traffic on the roads was a bit chaotic. Huge tractor after another towing long trailers using the road and holding up traffic. The GPS obviously needs a rest by now as it took us to the wrong location. There is more than one 'new road' in this neck of the woods. Mr Google was employed and came up with the goods getting up to our destination. Note to self - it pays to enter the postal code when asking for some directions. The limitations of the English language mean some places are duplicated in so many Counties.

    On arrival we were pleasantly surprised to find the farm cottage had been extensively renovated and was a brilliant home away from home. Set amongst fields and old farming ruins it was a real gem.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 3

    Day 3 - Darley via Nottingham

    July 4, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Time for a dose of legend and more rural lifestyle. After checkout we made a beeline for Nottingham to look over castle and brush up on all things Robin Hood. The castle didn't open until 10am so plenty of time for a coffee. In our search we asked a Castle attendant who turned out to be a real character. He guided us to an 'independent' cafe as opposed to Starbucks etc. the coffee was great - perfect Macchiato - and the staff entertaining. Purchased entry tickets for the Castle and museum and proceeded to look around. On several more occasions we meet out coffee direction guy. Each time to be greater as long lost relatives. Great vantage point to view the lookout and survey Nottingham and surrounds.

    Having had our fill of Nottingham we headed north to visit Sherwood Forest. On route we stopped off at Archer's for lunch. Great English fare and nice traditional ales. Located Sherwood Forest and walked to the Major Oak. An old, large gnarled tree in need of limb supports and guy wires. Interesting Forest that seems to be well patronized by locals. Open to walking dogs, bike riding and horse trail riding.

    Some 2 hours drive north into Yorkshire to arrive at our next night's accommodation. In the country traversed the mist interesting features were a huge coal fired power station, magnificent vistas and a strange looking RAF experiment in radio warfare. Being too early to check in and in need of supplies, a visit to Sainsbury's was in order. Could have been ASDA, Tesco or Aldi but Sainsbury's was the closest. Stocked up on bread, cheese, crackers, fruit and Vegemite (errr marmite as no Vegemite in sight. Postage stamps were also needed for postcards back home. Finding a post office was a real chore. Sainsbury's have stamps but not for international mail. All provisions purchased, time to follow the GPS home.

    After country roads with picturesque views of Yorkshire dales with dry stone walks around paddocks to odd looking sheep, woolly bulls, pigs and plain old pasture we arrived at a stately stone farmhouse lodge. We were greeted by a peacock and a turkey with numerous other avian types, and two very large pigs. Farm types that is.

    Dinner was cheese and crackers with fresh fruit. After another full day everyone was in bed by 8pm. Jet lag is still taking its toll. Tomorrow time to explore York.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 4

    Day 4 - York and Yorkshire

    July 5, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    What do we typically think about when York is mentioned? For me it's Yorkshire pudding, Vikings, ancient architecture and Monty Python. Not sure if any Python was a Yorkshireman or where pudding originated.

     The day started at Darley. A drive through the Dales, Harrogate (the traffic was horrendous) and to the outskirts of York. About a 40 minute drive. Our host had already recommended we use the Park n Ride facility. Car parked, £10 for bus tickets return for four and we were in York in no time. The best way to get the lay of the land and an introduction is on the hop in hop off bus. Great drivers who a very helpful and funny. we bought day tickets and hopped on and alighted close to the Minster. By now it was time for coffee so we found an independent cafe with a twist. The cafe is built into part of the ancient wall and even had a remnant of the Roman wall under a glass panel in the floor. Amazing - and perfect coffee.

    Next it was time to visit the Jorvik Viking center. A great way to learn about the past. When we arrived at the center the entry queue was about 100 deep. We estimated it would take about 2 hours before we could get in and thought, no we can other things. So we were Viking deprived. Instead we looked over Clifford Castle. The remains of a 13th century castle high in an embankment, complete with spiral stone staircases. Gabbing still not recovered from the Boston stair climb, we reluctantly began. At least these stairs were shorter. The climb to the top of the Castle was well worth it. The view is amazing. Easy to envision archers high on the platform firing down on enemies. Pouring boiling oil, throwing rocks. Great history.

    A short walk to the Minster and look over this ornate and elaborate cathedral, and a walk around was time to hop in the bus for more information and inspiration.

    By now it was time for lunch. A location Italian restaurant provided great service and food. After the recharge it was time to climb and walk the city wall. Thoroughly recommended. The walk is quite easy but a little scary in parts because so parts don't have a handrail or barriers.

    Time to head home via Sainsbury's for supplies, fill up the hire car and catch some vistas in the Dales. The hire car is a Mitsubishi plug in hybrid. The car came with very few instructions. With only 2000 miles on the clock, still in prime condition. Luckily the accommodation host has the identical car. He told us about the charging process and features.

    Enroute to the Dales we pass RAF Menwith Hill radar installation. From a distance it looks like white shade houses. As you get closer it's a weird sight of many giant white golf balls. As you drive past it's hard not to get the feeling you are in the XFiles movie and you are about to have your first encounter with aliens. Weird feeling. The Dales beckon. Rolling hills as far as the eye can see. Rock paddock fences. Neatly stacked that have stood if time for what looks like centuries. A beautiful sight.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 5

    Day 5 - Newcastle-under-Lyme

    July 6, 2017 in England ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A foggy Yorkshire morning greeted us. A low hanging fog, thick as, and worthy of a Python quip. Checked out and on the road around 8am. It seemed much later as our bodies are still getting used to the time difference. Having charged the hire car over night, we started out in EV mode moving silently through the Dales. A beautiful part of the world indeed. Rolling hills, green green grass. Lush pastures. Odd looking sheep and the occasional woolly bull. Stone dividing walls that stretch and criss-cross the countryside for as far as the eye can see. Eyeeeee laddie.

    The plan was to head for Liverpool for some Beetles nostalgia. An attempt was made to play some Beetles tunes via Spotify except for some reason it kept playing only intros or excerpts for some songs which was very annoying. Then the consensus view was stated and Liverpool and all things Beetles were off the agenda. I for one was very disappointed because I think seeing some of the sights and hearing some of the sounds beside the Mercy would have been inspirational. But majority rules. Sucks to be Pauline hey.

    So with Liverpool off-topic the EV juggernaut was steered for Chester. A quaint English city with old city wall remnants, canals, heritage buildings, Tutor and Georgian style architecture. We parked and headed for an independent cafe. While sipping long machiatto, flat while, cappuccino and latte and eating various creations the Chester Town Crier happened by on his way to the square. He was most helpful and instructive. He advised of the next public ceremony at 12pm, in 15 minutes time and a plot was hatched for the event. We assembled at 12 and during the day's readings the Crier asked if any man's wife was guilty of overspending. I raised my hand and said ah sire, mine. With which said wife was ushered forward and placed in the stocks. A right royal ruckus and photo and video session marked the occasion.

    A short exploration of Chester through the magnificent Cathedral and adjoining rooms. The place reeked history and it was easy to imagine the religious forebears traipsing through in years gone by from ceremony to ceremony. Just prior to entering the Cathedral an older gentleman said that I should later walk past the 'Superdrug' store just down the road and view the plaque on the wall outside because it told of a famous person who visited some 200 years earlier. Still not sure why he mentioned this to me. At the time I was taking photographs outside the Cathedral. At first I though he was directing me to some super herbs on offer in the area but then I quickly discounted the idea. So after out religious infusion we passed the building and there on the wall it told of the previous uses of the building and the fact Charles Dickens had performed there in 1867. Rather noteworthy. Next was a walk along the remnants of the old city wall. Great views of the city and the canal used for transporting goods in the industrial era.

    Being so close to Wales various member of the party decided that a brief foray into Wales was in order so we headed for Mold. There was a noticeable change in architecture along the way and all signage was in both English and Welsh. We parked and went for a walk around town. The accent of locals had the familiar lilt and song of Wales. Lunch was Subway. Too convenient. Tesco for some stocking up of supplies and back on the road.

    Next stop Newcastle-under-Lyme. Why? Seemed like a good idea at the time. A university city. Trouble was there were road works on the motorway so instead of 70 MPH is was more like 5 or stand-still at times, so a hour or so journey turned into 2 1/2 hours of stop start.

    But arrive we did. Sleep well tonight we shall - hopefully

    Not a lot of photos today. It is what it is.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 6

    Day 6 - Birmingham & The Cotswolds

    July 7, 2017 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We came to the conclusion, rightly or wrongly, that there wasn't much for us in Newcastle-under-Lyme. Or more appropriately, there was more for us elsewhere. It was a transit stop. Somewhere to break the journey and rest for the night. It filled that need reasonably well. Could have been better.

    Heading south at 8am, the traffic was quite heavy. After some navigation mix ups we were our way to Birmingham. Why you might ask - Bournville village. The Cadbury story. All about chocolate. We often overlook the humble hot chocolate and chocolate for the masses, getting lost in Lindt and Guylian. Cadbury world is a bit glitzy maybe, more suited to the school excursion, of which there were several while we were there. I was more interested in the story behind the heritage and social work of George and Richard Cadbury in the 1800s. They shared their success and prosperity with their workers, providing worker housing, education and support services unique in the day and consistent with the Quaker tradition. Much of those buildings and houses still stand. After hot chocolates and rich chocolate cake it was back on the road. Next stop the Cotwolds.

    I had a cousin who had retired from London to Bourton-on-the-water some years ago. They have since passed on - literally - I believe. We made this our point of visit and stopped and had lunch. Bourton-on-the-water is noted as the Venice of the Cotswolds. There are a series of canals that run through the town making it unique, expectantly on a summers day. We had lunch in an old English pub and strolled by a canal, zipping over the stone footbridges. Many of the buildings constructed using local stone with dry-stacked stone walls along boundaries. After spending a couple of hours there it was on the road once more. The Cotswolds, very worthy of a visit and spending a lot more time exploring.

    We arrived in Swindon with the temperature nudging 28C in the afternoon. A beautiful summers day and much of the long-day driving for the trip behind us.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 7

    Day 7 - Bath

    July 8, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    A shorter distance driving day today. It's about a 45 min drive to the park and ride at Lansdown Road, then a 10 min bus trip into the center of Bath. No parking worries. Arriving before 10am seems to be a blessing in this part of the world. The squares and queues are less populated with tourists bused in and the endless school excursion groups who seem to visit. And a very educational and worthy place to visit.

    So the game plan was to go on a walking tour, a boat ride on the Avon, visit the Roman Baths and stay sane. Mission accomplished.

    In front of the Bath Abbey many sprukers ply their wares. We saw a young guy (this is about 20) handing out pamphlets for a walking tour. The cost free and if you enjoy it you can make a donation. Walk starting at 10am. Brilliant time to grab coffees and chill a bit. Found a great independent (yes this is an ongoing theme) cafe who make great coffee and who have very tempting brownies etc. At 10am return to in front of the Abbey and it is full - people everywhere. Some dressed in suits. Hmmm these can't be ready for a walking tour. The tour starts and the be-suited ones don't join which is great. A party of about 30 follow the be-hatted young guy. He guides us around and narrating various sights and features of old Bath. I won't go into his dialogue or walk in detail, rather point out some facts.

    In the Bath area the archeologist types reckon they have found evidence of the ancient Celts going back 10,000 years and of course the Romans 2,000 years ago. Most of the visible architecture appears to be from the Georgian era and since. Bath was bombed by the Germans during WW2. Not because it had any strategic military target but because it was 'pretty'. There was a tit for tat 'war' going on with the Germans with each side selecting targets to upset and offend the enemy. The walk guide pointed out various walls around the city which still bear the pock marks from machine gun fire from the German fighters and bombers.

    Back to the be-suited people in front of the Abbey. According to the walk guide they are attending graduation services today for the children or acquaintances who attend exclusive private schools in Bath. The tuition fee per term 30,000 pounds. That's an expensive education.

    Back to the walk. The walk guide pointed out various residences in the square and also took us to the Royal Crescent. Some very interesting homes and architecture, surprising for the 1700s when people were dying from all manner of diseases which are now preventable. He also rattled off famous people who live or have lived in them. He mentioned that John Cleese is a permanent resident of No 8, so I have included a pic of his door for all the Monty Python. And before you comment - No I didn't knock on his door, No I didn't see him or look through his window, No I didn't ask him if he could still do the silly walk or if he paid for an argument. I have included a pic of his door for you. Our walk guide was a bit of an anti-royal, anti-nobility authority. He was entertaining. After 2 hours in the English summer sun the walk was over. We gave him 10 pounds for his troubles and he seemed to do quite well out of tips so hopefully he will eat tonight.

    By now it was time for lunch and to top up water. We found a brilliant baguette place and went and say in the park away from the before mentioned tourists and school excursion kids. Next we follows Mr Apple Maps to the Pulteney Bridge to the riverside dock to catch a scenic river cruise. Luckily there was a boat about to leave and it had space for a few more so we hopped on and away we sailed. An eclectic bunch of sightseeers. The Avon appears to be a thriving and living river. The cruise goes from the Pulteney weir up to the Bathampton weir, past fishing locals and paddling canoes and watercraft. On board also were a group of girls on a hens party event. One of whom, possible the bride to be, had the loudest voice imaginable and during the cruise talked almost non-stop about trivial topics for all to hear. Maybe she had already had a few drinks and she didn't need many more to be lethal. Pity the poor guy who is married to her, or marries her. He is in for a tough life.

    With the cruise ended we headed for the Roman Bath House tour. Earlier in the day we observed the line up and estimated it would take an hour or two to get to the head of the queue. Now later in the day the queue was a more 20 mins. We entered the exhibit and were amazed at the story and what the Romans had done some 2,000 years ago. There engineering ability and attention to detail was amazing. The area has hot springs and the Romans harnessed these in the bath house. All remarkably reserved - albeit under later generations of construction. Well worth a visit.

    By now the party were exhausted. Caught the park and ride bus back and headed to our home away from home.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    1
    Day 8

    Day 8 - Stonehenge & Salisbury

    July 9, 2017 in England ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today was the last day of our extra-London component of the trip. What better way to do that than to go back to the Neolithic and Celtic era with a visit to Stonehenge and Old Sarum. Check out and an hour and a half drive on a Saturday saw us arrive in Salisbury. We decided the best way was to do a guided tour with entry included. About 29 pounds a person. The bus trip was informative and enabled us to jump the queue.

    They may look like a pile of old stones, and that may well be right, but if the archeologists are to be believed the stones themselves came from a good way away. An incredible feat in an era without cranes, hydraulics, freighters and the like. The stones themselves have been placed, replaced, moved, and removed over centuries. Looking at them you can't help but wonder. Now I know some among you will say they look no better than the latest portrait from an abstract painter, but then again you also probably believe we descended from apes.

    After lunch back in Salisbury we headed to Old Sarum for a look. Not a lot to see remaining of the construction(s) and you have to use your imagination, but again much seemed to be accomplished using primitive tools and materials. The buildings there were built and rebuilt over many centuries and it hard to imagine where earlier eras begin and end and assimilate with the more modern (1000s and 1200s). At least someone still remember how to make concrete mortar from Roman times - at this point in time at least. Somehow the technology was lost until closer to the 1900 century. The size and scale of the former buildings is amazing and the earthworks undertaken to move mountains, create them and build moats is astonishing.

    In the afternoon we bid farewell to Stonehenge, Old Sarum and Salisbury to drive to our London accommodation for the week. It seemed as if the whole of England (and half of Tokyo) decided to have a day out on the UK motorways and A roads. It was traffic chaos, espectially as we got closer to London. Arrive we did with a vow to use the car as little as possible this week and take public transport as much as possible. Time for a change of pace.

    And that brings we to an assessment of English housing. That which we have experienced. I could go on about little things like the way showers are turned on and off and operate. Some strange systems that must be logical to someone. The past three nights we have stayed in modern houses, constructed within the last five years. It reminded me of Tiny Houses. At one point I thought there must be a BBC film crew around because these houses were perfect examples of how much you could pack into a small space and miniaturize rooms. It was cramped and hardy any room to swing a cat. Our stays have been much mire comfortable in older style houses, tastefully decorated and modernized where possible. I am a tiny house devotee but when you have absolutely nowhere to open a suitcase to live, there is something wrong. Give me character homes or spacious modern homes any day.

    A few photos to upload but I will try and pick the best of the bunch without overdoing it.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 9

    Day 9 - London day 1

    July 10, 2017 in England ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    The first task of the day was to find the nearest London underground or train station. Luckily one is 700 metres away and the travel time into the city centre is around 13 minutes. Oyster cards are the flavour around here for public transport. Maybe after the fact that the world is your oyster. We opted to go with a seven-day travel pass so we could hop on and off and get around for the week without having to be concerned with topping up the card.

    All aboard!!!! As expected the train ride was quick into Liverpool Street then a tube ride to Tower Hill. We activated our hop on and hop off bus tour for the day, boarded and made our way to Buckingham Palace. After the obligatory coffee we made it in time to see the changing of the guard. Quite a spectacle. On board the bus tour and got off at Baker Street. By now we were tired of overland travel in London. The traffic just makes it a slow and unpleasant experience. Some of the commentary was good but most rather boring. At least the pass was for only one day.

    Lunch at the Sherlock Holmes Bar in Baker Street . No Moriarty insight. Then it was time for underground travel. We arrived at Tower Hill and made our way to the Pier to get our free tickets for 24 hours of ferry travel. The trip to Westminster was a great ride with commentary by a young Londoner who was very entertaining and made the 40 minute trip pass quickly. A quick look over Westminster Abbey - from the outside as it was closed by now - and it was time to call it a day. Tube and train back home.

    So the first day in London was an orientation day. Get the lay of the land and work out what we wanted to do and see and what we didn't. A more planned day tomorrow - hopefully.    Read more

  • TravelerUK July 2017
    Day 10

    Day 10 - London day 2

    July 11, 2017 in England ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Have seen the long queues and throng of visitors at Westminster Abbey, the plan was to get there early to see the Abbey. We arrived only to find everyone else had the same idea. It was packed. No priority access for London Card people meant we had to line up too. The line moved quickly and we were in within say 30 minutes. An awe inspiring place. Reading names on epitaphs revealed a whose who of history with a lot of unfamiliar names to. Seems at times someone who tended the king's dog on some occasion was assured of a place. The Abbey is a labyrinth of rooms, alleyways, halls and tombs. Well worth a visit and rich in history. Bummer was no photography is allowed inside.

    After exiting the Abbey it was time to seek out the closest independent cafe for coffee. One very discerning and very English lad made ordering rather comical. Being close to the Thames, we decided to catch a river cruise to Greenwich. The trip took a bit more than a hour and traveling past from of the recently re-developed (well last 20 years) areas of the London. The Docklands including Canary Wharf and Isle of Dogs. On arriving at Greenwich no one could go any further without lunch so it was into the Old Brewery Greenwich. A rather tastefully decorated and restored building. It had huge kettles, kegs and pipes against one wall that looked like a brewery complete with On/Off/Stop buttons but I'm not sure it was real or operational. The giveaway for me was the fact they didn't have an 'made on premises' beverages, only the usual Englich brands. It was a nice lunch.

    Next to tackle the walk up to the Observatory. It was a pleasant walk through the park-like area, until the final climb up a steep ramp near the top. For a moment there I thought I was Sir Edmund Hillary. Once at the top there were many queued for something, but the London Pass got us fast access. You could spend a lot of time in the observatory reading about the advances and discoveries about astronomy and timekeeping. It always amazes me how early astronomers created tools, created and tested theories and made discoveries in early times. Today we start from a knowledge base and understanding that they didn't. Overall, the last part of the walk (climb) made for a short stay.

    On the agenda for the day was to see the Tower of London so we headed back on the light rail and tube, leaving about an hour to see. Barely enough time under usual circumstances, however, it had begun raining (yes this in London, the Melbourne of the north) so come 5pm everyone was ready for home. Another great day of exploring.    Read more

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