Fontainebleau

From the sweet simplicity of Giverny, we're now viewing the shamelessly extravagant excesses of a thousand years of French royalty.

No wonder they were overthrown eventually. As one French assistant in a Marais shop observed wryly, everything costs more and more simply to give more profit to those at the top.

It's clearly global. We notice a steep increase in prices in Paris, particularly restaurants and bars, and produce in grocery stores. Much like Canada in fact, although the quality is superior.

Our visit to Fontainbleu coincides with the anniversary of a visit from Peter the Great of Russia in 1717. The visit was declared a great diplomatic success at the time, only for the tsars memoirs to later reveal his displeasure with French hospitality.

Proving that in politics, history, and the human condition, some things really do never change.

This hunting lodge turned palace dates back to around 1060. It's namesake freshwater spring, Fontaine - belle - eau Is still nearby. A modest beginning turned into a part time residence of royals, with a chapel consecrated by Thomas Becket and the birthplace of King Louis the XIII.

Catherine de Medici lived here, widow of Henry II and mother to 3 future Kings of France. Popes visited, the French renaissance of art and sculpture was founded and flourished here.

The flagrant displays of obscene wealth hit a bit differently these days. I will always appreciate the stunning beauty and artistic talent that existed, and marvel at the creativity and genius. I know much of this art work might not exist but for wealthy patrons.

It all feels so dismissive of the struggles of their average citizen though. There's a board displayed in Napoleons apartments, with carved figures representing heads of state he wanted to manipulate. Apparently he would move his token people around his board and strategize how to get his way and consolidate power. Given modern events, we can only hope for another Waterloo.

But, Fontainbleu was stunning.Read more