Lecce

A slower morning, a slower day. We need it. Last night we bought a half roast chicken from a restaurant just closing, as we hadn't really eaten all day. He threw in the other half and some potatoes gratis....we must have looked hungry 😅

The morning brought street sounds and cool air, with a repeated fragment of Italian song interspersing. After a hostel breakfast with a very cool toaster contraption and fortified with actual drip coffee, we head out to explore the old town of Lecce.

It's a classically ancient European city, with honey coloured stone buildings and extravagant architecture. It's peaceful, no real crowds.

The only way to really see inside all of the baroque churches and fine buildings is through an organized tour. We don't really want to do that, so just wander instead.

It's a pleasant way to spend part of the day. We have a hiccup with the baggage storage confirmed months ago with the hostel. The desk staff don't know what the boss promised us. I'm sure it will sort out, but I'll be a little uneasy until that's confirmed.

We pass by a place called Museo Archiologico Faggiola. It's intriguing to read the big poster of an article in the New York Times relating the story of a guy who bought an old building and just wanted to open a trattoria. What he opened was a real can of worms for himself, and an absolute treasure of a discovery for everyone else!

Troublesome sewer issues required some digging, and layers revealed successive centuries of relics going back 2000 years. Mr Faggiola first enlisted the help of his sons to begin the digs, and tried to conceal the extent of the problem from his wife.....and the Italian government. Once the jig was up, the government graciously allowed him to keep funding the excavations, but they would be overseeing.

After this fascinating diversion, we pass by the right gelato shop at the right time. I have lemon and fennel, a combination I can much recommend. Sweet and sharp citrus is the perfect counterpoint to creamy, licorice fennel. Brad is much more prosaic, tiramisu, mango, and salted peanut caramel.

There's a supermercado right by the hostel. We procure baratelli and arrabiata for a fast easy dinner. Our luggage storage issue is resolved, and there's nothing left to do but check our backpacks one last time. And record a little video of the source of the Italian song....the gate plays it every time its opened 😅Read more