The International Date Line Stole

My Wordle streak. But the weirdness of time in general has given me the ability to gain back a 2 day streak in what feels like the same day 😊

I'm writing from an iconic bright orange Virak Buntham luxury bus that is transporting us, with much fanfare and excess horn tooting, from Phnom Penh Cambodia to Saigon, Vietnam.

The prices have so far been unbelievable. The airport bus into town worked smoothly, despite some concerns I had about it being a very new route. 1 USD, because we didn't have change. Cambodia has a closed currency, you can only get it in country. USD is very commonly used, and you'll get Cambodian riels in change. 1000 KHR is about 34 cents CAD, and a tall can of cold beer is about 2500 KHR.

The bus from the airport terminated at Canon Rifle Roundabout Park. The next mornings bus to Vietnam left from the same spot, so booking in the new Wyndham Grand, only steps away, felt like a very well deserved splurge after our long flight.

We took a leisurely long walk down to the Chaktomuk Walk Street. The sidewalks are dodgy, uneven with varying height curbs, occasional gaps and holes - and the ever present, everywhere, scooters. Traffic seems chaotic, lines markers and traffic lights are there but frequently disregarded. The experienced step serenely into traffic, confident in their understanding of flow. It is flow, a river of humanity on 2 wheels, 4 wheels, on foot and in buses and they ebb and flow around each other amazingly. Not quietly! But impressively.

We ended up detouring by accident down a small dusty alley that led to a shipyard, where we were informed we had strayed into the Royal Cambodian navy yard.

The riverside food stands on the Walk Street are as numerous as their offerings are mysterious. I'm fascinated just trying to fathom what these foods might be, but not quite ready to be that daring. Are those GRUBS on that sandwich?! The isolation of not knowing the language or culture is complete. The menus helpfully show pictures beside items but when you can't decipher the pictures any easier, it's a bit of a dangerous game!

I had a very safe matcha ice cream, feeling a bit too tired for that big of a risk.

Nearby us is an island of peaceful serenity in the midst of the cacaphony: the Buddhist temple of Wat Phnom Daun Penh. It sits upon a hill with a working clock embedded into it. It's lovely, with beautiful gardens and floral offerings at the many small shrines along the way up the hill. Wat Phnom means Mountain Pagoda, and the construction is said to have been completed in 1372. Incense hangs heavily in the whispery air, as offerings are made.

Neon lights are discordant along with the candles and flowers, but the overall aura is gently peaceful. Bats are beginning to swoop though the high tree branches, and the lively kickball game in the plaza has wound down.

We decide to take a tuk tuk back to the hotel. Since they're ubiquitous, this is handily found. An interaction involving pointing at maps and gesturing with dollar bills results in success, the driver will take us to our address for $3. We climb in happily, but that's short lived. To our consternation, he has immediately set off in the opposite direction! He stops to clarify with another driver, we try again and again to point at our map, but he nods and carries on the other way! We've really got no choice, we must jump out. To his absolute credit, the driver insists on pressing our payment back to us. He reluctantly accepts part payment.

So we trudge the long way back, through the humid dusk and emerging nightlife, to enjoy a cold drink and a cool swim in the most gorgeous pool I've ever seen.Read more