Hoi An New Moon Lantern Festival

Our last night in Hoi An is the one we came for, the New Moon Lantern Festival. It's always held on the date of the new Moon. This year that's only 2 days after New Years.

This lengthy holiday has brought crowds, and the locals are cheerful as flocks of tourists throng the streets and shops. We're only a 5 minute walk away from the main area, and it's quiet as soon as we leave. Vendors offer happy hour, happy new year, good luck pricing on everything.

New Moon offering tables are outside everywhere, on our hotels patio, at restaurants and private homes. The small tables hold fruits and flowers as offerings, and incense sticks drift musky trails heavenwards.

New Moon is really significant in Buddhist culture. People honour ancestors, pray for prosperity, release negativity and welcome positivity.

Its visually and spiritually stunning to experience lanterns strung everywhere, and watch the colourful glows emerge as dusk falls. We walk through the old town area around the river, and it's far less crowded than New Years was.

We're ensconced in front row seats on the second floor of a riverside bar cafe and chatting to our neighbours as we wait for the 8pm electric light turn off that is part of the festival. Sadly, that never happens. Indeed nothing else different really does. Maybe it's too close to the last holiday?

Anyway, I am still hoping for a boat ride, which is easily enough arranged. Only once Brad has handed over payment beside a boat launch area, a young man is summoned. He takes off down the road at a rapid pace and we have to rush to not lose him. He isn't turning back to check on us either! He gestures towards a boat...this is us.

My heart sinks. This, this big clunky flat bottom boat, with gaudy electric lanterns, this isn't the graceful, glowing water craft I saw myself in at all! And yet. It's on me. They did not misrepresent as much as we didn't confirm. I know better! So, a little ruefully, we make the most of it. Still on the dark Thu Bon river with rainbow orbs all around us. Still tiny flamed paper lanterns bravely dip and dance around the boats. Still good.

Even so, once back on land, I purchase one more paper lantern. This one we place gently, respectfully, from the riverside, and watch its little flame until it drifts out of sight.

And go home.Read more