The Way to Hue

Is over the Hai Van Pass. This misty, twisting scenic pass was even featured in Top Gear, and we can easily see why. Hai Van means "ocean cloud" in Vietnamese, and streams of white ribbon around us as we climb.

Soon after Da Nang, the road rises rapidly. Hairpin turns reveal the sweep of Da Nangs My An beach far below in no time.

It would be challenging in the extreme to try drive this, we have a car and driver - Tuey? - arranged from Hoi An. He is calm and expertly handles the vehicle. He has few English words, enough to point out highlights in single bursts: Da Nang. Viewpoint. Pass.

The normal cheerful traffic weaving we've seen in Vietnam is nowhere to be seen here!

The pass was a dividing point between kingdoms in the 1300s. It still can divide the weather. We had sun and clouds breaks on the way up, then a cool low wind at the top, followed by an absolute torrent of rain on the way down.

At the top, we pause for a salt coffee and a stretch, and a climb around the old military fortress occupying the commanding views.

Through the rain and then a final push onwards, as growing traffic indicates we are entering the ancient city of Hue.Read more