Cochem to Koblenz

Today was our last day cruising the Moselle River with its millions of vines on every available strip of land. We started at Cochem, a tiny riverside town that acts as a hub for river cruise boats. I counted nine. There was an impressive castle at the top of the hill, but unfortunately our sailing schedule meant we didn’t have time to see it. Our next stop was the little village of Alken, which had started as a Roman guard station on the river. Here we met our tour guide Michaela, who used one of her five languages to show us around. The few streets were very steep. She led us up hydrangea-lined stairs to a tiny medieval church, not bombed, still with its original ceiling frescoes, and still in regular use for parish services and weddings for people from all over the world. This is the Church of St Michael, whose splendid statue and surround open this blog.

On the altar is a colourful nineteenth-century triptych (folding panel). There are many statues: the oldest, of Mary and the Child Jesus, dates form the 14th century. In the vestry are original vestments from the 17th century, unsurprisingly faded and tarnished now. Most interesting is how small they are. In an age of poor nutrition, people were shorter and thinner than today..

Michaela took a photo of us in the church doorway - note the rows of vines running up the steep hills behind. Up more steps (very old and uneven) was the church garden and a cemetery going back many years, It’s a section for the parishioners who died during the 20 years of the French occupation, first by the Revolutionary army, then by Napoleon.. French rule was harsh and resented everywhere in the Rhineland. The poor people of this town have been oppressed by every conqueror who passed through from the Romans to the Prussians. Not until after the second World War did they have the chance to run their own affairs.

Next stop, thankfully after a bus ride to the top of a hill, was Thurant Castle, built by a returned Crusader in 1209. He named it after the mighty Toron Castle in Syria, Over the years a string of noble families vied for ownership. It was such a desirable piece of real estate that the Archbishops of Trier and Cologne wrangled over it. In the end they decided to literally split it down the middle, with one owning one side,, and the other, the other.. In the 19th century it was partially restored. The owner’s family live there, with a charming if incongruous terrace garden. You can stay the night if your taste runs to stocks, suits of armour, and a fabulous view. Hopefully they have improved the central heating. Winter temperatures sink to minus 10C. Even the dark and tiny original chapel is still there. A fine memorial window commemorates the dead of the 1914-18 War.

The bus took us to meet the ship at Koblenz. Here we spotted two mannequins perched incongruously on the top of a high wall (“Jump!”) on our way to rejoin our vessel. We were moored just by the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine (marled by the little island in the picture). Tomorrow we sail the Romantic Rhine. They have promised us 40 castles!Read more