The Romantic Rhine!

Last night we lay alongside at the end of the Moselle River, in sight of its confluence with the Rhine. This morning we began our journey on the so-called “Romantic Rhine” towards Rüdesheim, home of one of Desiree’s favourite people, Hildegard of Bingen. Hildegard (1098 to 1179) was a very influential German Abbess, a writer, composer and mystic. Her music is still a best seller, 800 years after she wrote it.

During the morning, we passed 40 castles - you’ll be pleased to know we haven’t included them all in this blog! Many are in ruins - Louis XIV, revolutionary France and later Napoleon demolished a number of them. One commander who surrendered his fort to the French was later executed.
Some have been reconstructed, and are absolutely stunning!

The symbol of the Romantic Rhine is the Lorelei Rock, 132 metres almost vertical above the river. The legend is a classic siren story: Lorelei was an enchantress who fascinated sailors, and drew them to their deaths. One such was the heir to Rhine-Palatinate, and his father ordered Lorelei to be captured or killed. She called on her father, the Rhine, who caused large waves and foam to carry Lorelei away. She was never seen again.

Note: The light was all wrong this morning, and our photos were useless - sorry!

After another fantastic 3-course lunch, we caught a tourist train (remember Strasbourg!) into the city: uncomfortable when stationary, diabolical in motion, especially as the unseen driver took shortcuts over kerbing, potholes, and any gravel track s/he could find! I could hear Desiree’s broken ribs screaming.

Once in town the train climbed the hill almost to Hildegard’s Abbey (that we wanted to see), then turned back down the hill.

Finally the torture stopped. Our fellow travellers went for a(nother) wine tasting, while Des and I set out to enjoy an interesting Rhenish town.

Not so much. First, we found ourselves surrounded on every side by hordes of black-leathered bikies with their deafening, muffler-less machines. “Magic Bike” weekend apparently.

Second, today is the religious feast of Corpus Christi, and all the shops are shut, except for wine bars and the odd (aren’t they all?) Irish Pub!

Third, towns on the Rhine suffered hugely in World War Two. I didn’t see any building of architectural or historic interest here, apart from one locked church.

On our way into town we had driven past the massive ruins of the Hindenburg Rail Bridge, bombed by the Allies in January 1945 and completely destroyed by the Wehrmacht in March to hinder the Allies’ advance.

The day’s programme said we should walk back to our boat, about 1.6km. So we did. Not the best idea, temperature 30 deg C this afternoon, in full sun. And the endless VROOMS as convoys of bikes roared past the armed police on every corner.

But we made it, and the beer was great!!Read more