Redondela (via Vigo) to Pontevedra

I was up early in order to catch the 0650 from Vigo-Guixa station back to Redondela-Picota, which arrived at 0705.

I retraced my steps down from the station, which was on the level of the viaducts high above the town, to find the Camino in the pre-dawn darkness. Initially, it was easy to see by the glow of the streetlights but as the trail left the fringe of the town, a head torch was necessary. Rain was forecast and so I’d put the raincover on my rucksack and had my poncho in easy reach.

I stopped for breakfast at a bar after a few km. Once I set off again, there was sufficient light to see without the torch.

Ever since leaving Redondela, the path had mostly been ascending and now through woodland. Eventually, half an hour or so after breakfast, the brief glimpses of the waters of the Ria de Vigo to my left opened up into a proper view across the ria, now far below me.

The path continued through the wood covered hillside, with better and better views of the ria, and even as far as the Ponte de Rande cable stayed bridge that I’d seen from the train to Vigo yesterday.

The Camino then descended into Arcade, where a friend who’s now ahead of me stayed last night. I bumped into the friendly Italian couple and it was lovely to chat to them for while as we walked, having not previously got beyond brief greetings and lots of smiles. Fortunately the lady spoke some English, as I speak as much Italian as the man spoke English!

Arcade gave way to Pontesampiao and its medieval bridge across the Rio Verdugo, which feeds into the Ria de Vigo.

The path climbed steeply again after the bridge, past vegetable gardens and we were soon back in woodland where the track turned into a rocky path across boulders and rocks.

There was a makeshift cafe at the top of the hill, where I paused for a coffee and to catch my breath.

The Camino soon descended once more through woods and countryside, and along some quiet lanes.

A couple of km before today’s destination of Pontevedra, the Camino came to a junction. The main route continued to the right, whereas the left led to a ‘complementary’ path which was slightly longer but prettier, passing through woods and following the line of a stream. I decided on the latter and got chatting to a Catholic man from California.

As the stream meandered vaguely in the direction of Pontevedra, it began to feel that we might be walking in circles, never to escape the woodland. It started spitting, but not really enough to justify putting a waterproof on.

A little later (and still following the woodland path), I caught up with 2 Spanish brothers and their wives, who I’d briefly encountered earlier this morning at a wayside stop for a sello (stamp). At this first meeting, the Spaniards were most entertained that I bore a striking resemblance to a gif they’d just received from a friend: a man on the Camino with a blue t-shirt, white beard and a hat!

This time we introduced one another and I chatted to one of the men for a while. They were from Barcelona, and the 2 men were retired doctors.

The path through the woods finally turned left and through a tunnel beneath a railway line and we were in Pontevedra, and a few hundred metres from the entrance to the Xunta/municipal albergue where I hoped to stay.

In contrast to Redondela, this albergue is rather larger, with 86 beds. About 40 minutes before opening, there was a long line of rucksacks at the entrance gate, with some of their owners standing close by, and others had gone to a nearby supermarket or bar.

This time I was in the 60s according to someone else’s count, and my South African friends were a bit further ahead of me, but we were all comfortably within the albergue’s capacity.

I chatted to a couple of young men from Barcelona, who were immediately ahead of me in the queue, before leaving my rucksack in line and going to chat with the South African family who were sitting outside a bar across the street, with another lady from South Africa.

When the albergue opened at 1pm, the line moved forward to the main door and entrance canopy. Before I reached the shelter, the rain finally came and, like everyone else, quickly donned my poncho. The queue moved rapidly and I was soon able to take the poncho off.

Eventually, it was my turn at the front of the queue and I was delighted to be allocated a lower bunk. It was then time for the usual routine, and then I set off to find lunch and to explore Pontevedra.Read more