Exploring Pontevedra

The Xunta albergue is about 1.5km from the old city centre of Pontevedra.

Just on the edge of the old city, I found a bar for a bocadillo (essentially a baguette type sandwich) with delicious Iberian ham for a slightly late lunch.

Once fortified, I made my way first to the Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina (Church of the Pilgrim Virgin). This is a late 18th century church, where the floor plan is in the shape of a scallop shell. The Pilgrim Virgin is the patron saint both of the province of Pontevedra and of the Caminho Português, and is Mary, the mother of Jesus, who is said to have guided pilgrims to Santiago.

Next, I found the Basílica de Santa María a Maior (Basilica of St Mary the Major), which effectively functions as Pontevedra’s cathedral. The church was built in the 16th century at the commission of the local Guild of Seamen. The church was quite beautiful inside, with clear evidence of an active faith community.

I especially liked the installation based on Jesus as the foundation of Living Water (see photo), with a series of panels each beginning with the words “Tengo sed de…” (“I’m thirsty for…”). Working clockwise, the panels read: “I’m thirsty … to keep walking, for your Spirit, to keep seeking you, to know Jesus, to grow in your love, and to encounter Jesus”.

There was also a side chapel set side for prayer, with a very friendly volunteer who was there for anyone who wished to pray with her.

I spent some time in quiet reflection here. A special place and moment.

As I wandered around the city, I found 2 more churches, or rather 2 convents. First was the Ruínas de San Domingos, the ruins of the 13-14th century Dominican Convent. Only part of the chancel remains but even this gives an indication of the splendour of what has been lost.

It turned out that I’d saved the most beautiful church to last. This is the Convento e Igrexa de San Francisco (St Francis’s convent and church). Tradition says that St Francis founded the convent when he passed through Pontevedra as a pilgrim heading to Santiago de Compostela, although the building was built in the 14th century. It was quite dark inside but the stained glass in particular was lovely. Another special place to take time to pause.

I bumped into 3 of my Italian friends inside the church - we agreed it was “Bellissima!”

Outside San Francisco’s, I chatted briefly to an American catholic lady who was similarly moved by the stained glass.

It was then time to grab a quick tapas before the Pilgrim Mass inside the Pilgim Virgin church. I just about followed the liturgy with my bilingual Mass book and went forward for a blessing from the priest.

It had started raining heavily while I’d been eating, and continued after the service. Fortunately I’d taken my poncho with me and so I was able to flip flop back to the albergue relatively dry, except for my feet and ankles.

I had of course kept a careful eye on the time and was back well before 10pm.Read more