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Seis días en Sevilla
  • Iain Colville
  • Iain Colville

Seis días en Sevilla

A short but fine adventure by Iain Read more
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    November 24, 2025
    Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler

    And he’s off once again…

    November 24, 2025 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    My next trip is taking me back to España.

    Not to walk more of the Camino this time, but for a few days in Sevilla: the capital of Andalucía, the southernmost of the comunidades autónomas (autonomous communities or regions) of Spain.

    So far, I’ve already been on quite an adventure and we’re still at the airport!

    After the usual fun coming through security, I got some lunch and then joined what seemed to be a very long queue at the nominated gate. Roughly when the gate was meant to close but with no suggestion we were running late, the queue began to move slowly forward. When my turn came to reach the front, I presented my passport and boarding card. The computer said “no” and the screen flashed red. The agent said this was a flight to Dublin with Ryanair, which was running late but seemed to have been assigned the same gate as the Seville flight. At least a third of the crowd were also waiting for the Seville flight. We were told to stand to the side of the gate, and the agents said their system also said we’d be at the same gate.

    After a little while, Ryanair’s app started to show a “pending status” for our flight, still at the original gate.

    After another 20 minutes, the gate changed to a new number, one of the bus gates. The crowd duly made its way to the new gate and separated into priority and standard boarding lines.

    After what seemed like an eternity, our boarding cards were finally processed and we moved into a slightly different part of the queuing zig zag, still at the gate. Eventually a bus arrived and we were asked to board.

    We stood for another 15-20 minutes on the bus, with the doors still open.

    Finally, the bus doors closed and we were driven for about 2 minutes, back to the outside of the gate we started at. Our plane was parked just next to the original gate. The bus ride took less time than the walk to the new gate.

    Finally, we’re ready to depart!    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    I think the city by the river is Lorient (southern Brittany).I'm pretty sure this is a cumulus somethingCan you spot the plane below and to our right?Evening stroll around the Santa Cruz district of Sevilla... this is just along from my hotelThe big tower is the Giralda, the former minaret and now bell tower at the catedral.Walls of the Real Alcazar (royal palace)More views of the huge catedralGoats cheese croquettes and Salmorejo (cold thick tomato-y soup with boiled eggs and Iberian ham)This orange tree was just above my tableMore of the catedralMore of the catedral to the leftTorre del Oro (Golden Tower), part of the 13th century fortifications built by the MoorsLooking across the Rio Guadalquivir and the Puente de San TelmoLooking along the Rio Guadalquivir towards the Puente de Triana and the modern Torre SevillaAnother view of the catedral2Pensión Dulces Sueños, my hotel

    ¡Buenas desde Sevilla!

    November 24, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Good evening from Seville!

    We climbed into the grey and wet skies over Birmingham about 50 minutes behind schedule. We were soon in the glorious sunshine at 30,000’ with fluffy clouds far below. I didn’t spend the whole time staring through my window but the clouds parted a little as we flew high above Brittany, with Lorient and the Presqu’île de Quiberon below us as we headed out across the Bay of Biscay.

    Our flight crew made good progress and we ended up arriving only 25 mins late, into a slightly damp and drizzly Sevilla evening. But it is about 10°C warmer here.

    I had a brief fight with an automated machine, which asked a bunch of questions about my stay (including whether I could evidence my ability to spend what the Spanish Government appears to expect tourists to spend each day). I of course answered truthfully and equally giving what I imagined would be the expected answers.

    But the machine then told me (and it seemed almost everyone else) to go to a manual processing desk, which began with a passport scanner and biometric camera (like the usual automated gates), before I was permitted to approach a friendly policeman, who scanned my passport for the third time, and welcomed me to Spain with a smile and my entry stamp!

    I soon found my way to the bus stop for the Aeropuerto Especial into the city centre, which dropped me about 9-10 mins walk to my hotel.

    I’m staying at the Pensión Dulces Sueños (Sweet Dreams), a little family run 1* hotel just inside the historic centre where I received a friendly welcome.

    After settling in, I headed back out into the city to have a little explore whilst scouting somewhere for dinner. The drizzle had stopped and it’s a pleasant 16°C.

    As you can see, the city is rather beautiful. And contrary to my expectations, the orange trees are full of oranges!    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Looking down Avenida de Constitución
    Ayuntamiento (city hall) built in the Plateresque style in the 1530sAyuntamientoPlaza San Francisco and the start of Calle Sierpes, one of main shopping streetsFormer prison and courthouse, Plaza San FranciscoCapilla de San José (St Joseph's chapel)Capilla de San José, an amazing, tiny baroque assault on the sensesCapilla de San JoséFormer ablutions courtyard of the 9th century Adabbas mosque now part of San Salvador church9th century Umayyad arches, using repurposed Roman archesThe Metropol Parasol built in 2011 to much controversy, known by locals as Las Setas (Mushrooms)Calle Cuna (Cuna Street)Entrance of the Palacio Condesa de LebrijaFront of the San Salvador churchThe weather vane or Giraldillo (spinning thing) on the catedral bell tower, known as La GiraldaLa Giralda tower, originally a minaretLa Giralda and the building to right remain from the original mosque, now the catedralArchbishop's palaceWalls of Alcázar palace complexArchivo de Indias Archivo de Indias building housing papers from Spain's exploration of the Americas

    Walking tour in the sun

    November 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I joined a walking tour this morning with the lovely Concepción from Seville Walking Tours, who introduced us to her city. The others in our group were from the Netherlands, Brazil and various places in the US.

    In 2 hours, we covered lots of ground, literally and metaphorically: From the fascinating history and culture of Sevilla and its people, to Concepción’s excitement at finding discounts in the window of a flamenco dress shop (she thinks she needs a new one this year)!

    In the sunshine and under cloudless skies, it was pretty warm too.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    La Giralda
    For comparison here's the minaret of the Koutoubia mosquée, MarrakechYou can see the "join" between the mosque building and the later catedralLooking up the outside of the tower, from inside the catedral!Ramped passage to the top (there are 34 sections like this)Looking down to the former ablution courtyard, now the Patio de los Naranjos (Orange tree courtyard)Can you spot Las Setas, roughly in the centreThe big circular building is the Plaza de Toro (Bullring)My hotel is in this direction, looking towards the Santa Cruz districtThe Ayuntamiento is the large building slightly left of centreThese views were taken laterClose up of the viewing gallery, at the bottom of the belfry sectionDetail halfway up the tower

    La Giralda and Catedral (part 1)

    November 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After a quick pitstop for a slice of tortilla and a beer, it was time to investigate the Catedral complex, said to be the largest gothic cathedral in the world.

    In part, its size is due to taking over the entire footprint of the former grand mosque built by the Almohad caliph in the late 12th century, replacing the Adabbas mosque as the city’s principal mosque.

    After the Reconquista in the 13th century, Seville was retaken by the Christian forces led by Ferdinand III (later San Ferdinand) in 1248 and the mosque building was consecrated and repurposed as the city’s cathedral. But by 1401, the city leaders decided it was time to build a new cathedral worthy of Seville’s power and prestige.

    The legend is that the cathedral chapter said "Let us build a church so beautiful and so grand that those who see it finished will take us for mad.” Other historical records suggest that they actually wanted “one so good that none will be its equal” but the original meeting minutes from 8 July 1401 have been lost.

    The gothic nave is 126m long, 73m wide and 42m high. It took over a century to build involving different architects and master masons, who worked in a range of styles, mostly gothic and some renaissance.

    Armed with an audioguide, I initially ascended the ramped passageway to the top of La Giralda, the bell tower. The tower was previously the minaret, designed to resemble the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech (which it does). The reason for the ramp, rather than stairs, was so the muezzin could climb the tower riding a donkey, presumably so he still had sufficient breath to make the call to prayer. The upper section containing the bells was added in the late 15th century in the baroque style.

    As you can see the views from the top (well, the level of the bells) were splendid!    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Close up of bottom left panel, showing Saints Justa and Rufina with La Giralda before alterationSantiago (St James) shown defeating the Moors at the Battle of Clavijo, 800 years after his death!Saints Justa and Rufina again with La GiraldaBaptistery chapel dedicated to St AnthonyMain painting of St Anthony is by famous Sevillian artist Bartolomé Esteban MurilloRetrochoirRetrochoir altarChris Columbus tombVast 30 high mural of St Christopher, carrying the Christ child, just next to Chris Columbus's tombWhen we were called to pray, this window caught my eye and so I prayed, with this image in mindDome under the crossingChoirHigh altar, the principal worship space (the Choir is directly behind me)Main altarpiece, described as a golden bible for the non-literate majorityThe altarpiece shows many scenes from the life of JesusJesus triumphant, after His resurrectionThe ascension of JesusAnother representation of the unaltered La Giralda towerOuter view of Choir enclosure

    Catedral (part 2)

    November 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    On returning to ground level, the audioguide took me around the many of the 80 chapels and major sights.

    These include the tomb of Christopher Columbus (in Spanish, Cristóbal Colón), who was commissioned by Queen Isabella in Seville to navigate across the Atlantic Ocean, discovering what became known as the Americas. The remains of Columbus were returned to Seville in 1898, having been taken from Valladolid (where he died in 1506) to a monastery in Seville, then to what is now the Dominican Republic (where he wanted to be buried), before being moved to Cuba in 1793 when France took over the island of Hispaniola (both the Dominican Republic and Haiti). The four supporters of the catafalque represent the kingdoms of Castile, Leon, Navarre and Aragon.

    Columbus’s eldest son Diego, also a navigator, is also buried in the catedral.

    At 3pm (because this is the hour Jesus died on the Cross), an announcement led us in a short time of prayer, in Spanish and English, before inviting us to pray, whilst quietly contemplating any image of Jesus that we could see before us.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    The crucified Christ in the Chapel of St Andrew
    SacristySacristySacristy domed ceiling, depicting hell and heavenSan Ferdinand but I'm sure he is saying "Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya ... prepare to die!"Small remnants of Islamic decorationChapter house antechamberChapter houseThe walls are covered with biblical scenes, meant to inspire wisdom in the chapter's membersPluvial cloak worn by Charles V for his coronation, in Aachen in 1520The other side of the pluvial cloakHorseshoe archesPatio de los NaranjosLa Giralda from the Patio de los NaranjosCentral fountainPuerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness)Puerta del PerdónDetail in the Puerta del PerdónOutside of the Puerta del PerdónColumbus Institute door

    Catedral (part 3)

    November 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After the incredibly ornate gilded altars, the slightly later built, renaissance style parts of the catedral were something of a relief: the sacristy, where the priests prepare for the Eucharist (or communion) as part of a Mass, and then the oval chapter house, where the catedral chapter or council meet.

    Unfortunately the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel), where various kings and queens are buried, is currently closed for restoration work.

    At the end of the visit, you come into the Patio de Naranjas (Orange trees), in what was originally the ablutions courtyard of the grand mosque, where Muslim worshippers would wash themselves before entering the prayer hall.

    The surrounding walls retain their original Moorish and Mudejar features, with horseshoe arches and intricate decoration. This is especially the case on the Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness) which was previously the main entrance to the mosque, and now the exit of visitors.

    The fountain and pool in the centre are not original, although the bowl is thought to be Visigothic (the rulers of Seville and Spain before the Moors arrived).

    The courtyard is almost an oasis, if not for the crowds of tourists! The views of the catedral building, through the orange trees, are rather beautiful.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Seville's flag flying over the outer fortifications
    Sala de Justice (Room of Justice), built by Alfonso XI, incorporating some Almohad elementsAlmohad wallPatio de la Montería (Hunting Courtyard)Casa de Contratación (Trading House) where Isabella I commissioned one C Columbus to go exploringCapilla (Chapel) in the Casa de ContrataciónDetail on the main entrance to Pedro's palacePatio de las Doncellas (courtyard of the Maidens). Renaissance style upper level added in 16th cenOne of the royal private roomsPatio de las Muñecas (Courtyard of Dolls), centre of the private accommodation in Pedro's palaceLooking from Patio de las Muñecas towards the public reception roomsSalón de los Embajadores (Ambassadors' room) where Charles V got marriedCeiling of Salón de los EmbajadoresDetail, Salón de los EmbajadoresSala de los InfantesCapilla (Chapel) in the Gothic palace of Alfonso XPatio del Crucero (Crucifix Courtyard), Gothic palaceGothic palaceApeadero (Horse Mounting hall)Patio de Banderas (Courtyard of Flags)

    Alcázar de Seville

    November 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The afternoon’s final stop was the Real Alcázar, the oldest palace in Europe that’s still in use. The word “Alcázar” is derived from the Arabic “al-qasr”, (which is itself derived from the Latin “castrum”) and essentially means a stone fortified centre of power.

    Part of the site was the location of a 10th century fortification built by the first Muslim rulers of Al-Andalus, the Umayyads. This was extended successively, by the Abbadids, and then the Almohads in the 12th century, who made Seville the capital of Al-Andulus and also built the huge grand mosque just to the north of the palace complex (now the catedral).

    After the Reconquista reached Seville in 1248, the Catholic kings of Spain took over the Moorish complex and built their own palaces alongside and in many cases replacing the Almohad buildings, only a few traces of which remain.

    First, King Alfonso X built a Gothic palace in the late 13th century, and Pedro I built a further complex of rooms and apartments in the 14th century, in part replacing some of the gothic buildings. Confusingly, Pedro’s palace was built in the Islamic style (typical of the Almohad era) from a couple of centuries earlier. Later rulers, including Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, added further Renaissance style extensions in the 16th century. Charles V married Isabella of Portugal in the Salón de los Embajadores in 1526. The upper levels are still used today by the Spanish royal family when in Seville.

    The combined effect really is beautiful, and reminded me of several buildings in Marrakech - where the Umayyads and Almohads ruled!

    Unfortunately the palace closed before I managed to visit the gardens which are said to be amazing - I might have to try and squeeze in a return visit just to see the gardens.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    I might have a glass or two of Tinto de Verano (wine & cloudy lemonade)

    Eating with the bulls

    November 25, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Perhaps not surprising in Spain, but I spotted a theme in the eateries I patronised today.

    As I ate my lunchtime tortilla, I’d noticed the bull heads on the wall in front of me. Glancing up as I stood to leave, I realised another bull had been just above me the whole time.

    Bull fighting was again the theme of the decor in La Teresas, in the Santa Cruz district. I had some ancient cheese (Manchego, I think, but that was the description in the English menu!) followed by sausages in a white wine sauce, washed down with a beer or two.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Santa Maria La Blanca
    Dome, Santa Maria La BlancaSanta Maria La BlancaThe Last Supper by Murillo, Santa Maria La BlancaStained glass, Santa Maria La BlancaSan SalvadorInside San SalvadorCristo del Armor (Christ of Love) altarDetail on Cristo del Amor, a pelican sharing its flesh with its young, symbol of the EucharistSan Salvador domeJesus on his donkey, at the Triumphal Entry into JerusalemMain altar, San SalvadorLight from the stained glassStained glass, San SalvadorIllustration of the Umayyad mosqueThese columns were in the mosque prayer hall, with water table covering foot of columnArabic inscription recording the rebuilding of the minaret after earthquake in 1079These columns were part of the restyling of the mosque into a churchFloor from converted mosquePatio de los Naranjos, part of ablution courtyard from the mosqueUmayyad arches and pillars, ground level 2m higher nowThe column capitals are mostly reused Roman stonesThis one has Visigothic decoration (Visigoths ruled Spain in the 700s)Minaret converted into the bell tower

    Two churches …

    November 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    I planned to have a slightly less hectic day today but I ended up being pretty busy - partly due to several attractions being included on tickets from the catedral and Alcázar which were only valid today.

    My first stop, after breakfast from the bar next to my hotel, was the Church of Santa Maria La Blanca (Holy Mary the White) about 2 minutes walk further along the street.

    In a slight variation from a regular theme in Seville, there was a 11th century mosque, which was replaced by a synagogue after the Reconquista (in 1248) until the Jews were expelled from the Santa Cruz district in 1391, by which time this area had become a ghetto.

    After the Jews left, the synagogue was rebuilt as a church named for Our Lady of the Snow (who is connected to a miraculous snowfall in Rome in August 532). The church was remodelled in the 1660s in a baroque Rococo style.

    Next, I walked across the historic centre to find the Church of San Salvador (St Saviour’s) which we saw on the walking tour. This is the second largest church, built on the site of the original grand Adabbas mosque of Seville, built by the Umayyads in the 9th century.

    Immediately after the Reconquista in the 13th century, the mosque building was repurposed and reoriented as a church, with the main altar at eastern side and a sacramental chapel in place of the mihrab on the northern side (yes, I thought the mihrab would have faced east to Mecca, but not here)

    By the 17th century, the city decided it was time for a new church, and so a new baroque church was built in its place. In some respects, this results in a more coherent and simpler worship space than the catedral (although it still has v ornate altarpieces).

    After major renovations in the 1990s, the remains of both the mosque and initial conversion were uncovered, and are the focus of a fascinating account of the history of this site in the crypt. The ground in the time of the mosque was about 2m lower than it is now, and the water table has risen, such that it is above the ground level in the 9-13th centuries.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Cream cheese and fig ice cream!Rio Guadalquivir, looking southPuente Isabel II or the Triana BridgeCeramics centreInside a 16th century kilnThis was where the fire goes!Puente Isabel IITorre del OroThe bullring is in the foreground, with the Catedral & La Giralda behindTrianaTrianaReal Parroquia Santa Ana TrianaThis was made of tiles, 16th century

    … Ceramics Museum and a third church

    November 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After a quick tapas of potatoes in oil & vinegar (much more delicious than it sounds in English), and an Iberian ham & pepper sandwich, I set off to try and remember where my tour guide had shown us her favourite ice cream shop. I eventually found it and tried her recommendation: a cream cheese and fig ice cream. It was v rich but delicious (and again more so than it sounds!)

    It was then time to head to Triana, the traditionally working class district on the far side of the Rio Guadalquivir. Triana is named for the Roman Emperor Trajan, and the location of a dozen potteries from the 12th century onwards - Seville’s answer to Stoke on Trent.

    My target was the Centro Cerámica Triana, a museum in the former factory of Cerámica Santa Ana-Rodríguez Díaz. The site includes 16th century kilns and and explanation of the history of the local lotteries, with examples of their work. I of course had a little potter in the extensive shop, containing many examples of their current local output.

    Next, I had a stroll through Triana, starting by the riverside, enjoying the views back towards the historic centre, with the bull ring, catedral and the Torre de Oro on the other side of the river.

    I then found my third church of the day, La Real Parroquia de Señora Santa Ana (Royal Parish church of Saint Anne, the mother of Mary). This church was the first to be built on a new site after the Reconquista, at the direction of King Alfonso X the Wise. A very friendly man was on the reception desk, very keen to chat to me in Spanish, even after I’d told him that I spoke only a little Spanish and after we’d established that he didn’t speak any English! I gathered that he wanted to tell me how to find an interesting convent nearby, including taking me out into the street to give me directions. I think I understood about a third of what he was telling me (mostly the directions).

    But it was time to head back into the city centre and to head for my next stop - which involved a timed ticket.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Roman houses in the AntiquariumRoman mosaic in the AntiquariumGoats cheese saladPork with a spicy sauceThe start of the Via de la Plata (Silver Way)Copy of the Giraldillo, th weather vane that's on top of La Giralda

    Sunset on the Mushrooms!

    November 26, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    I needed to get back to the Parasol Metropol, better know as Las Setas (the Mushrooms) in time for my sunset ticket.

    As I think I mentioned when we saw this on the walking tour the other day, this was built between 2005 and 2011 and was paid for by Seville City Council, who continue to pay for its costly maintenance, much to the disgust of the locals.

    On the ground level is the reopened fruit and veg market which had always stood here, above that is a public space now filled with a not yet open Christmas Market. Underground is the Antiquarium, uncovered excavations of Roman and later ruins.

    And above are Las Setas which, as well as the lattice or waffle-like framework, includes a walkway which snakes across the top to a viewing platform, and back again.

    I arrived, as recommended, 30 mins before sunset, and was soon on the top, listening to the audio guide and watching the sky change colour all around. And so were a few hundred others.

    The views of the city are great, and enhanced by the sky turning gold and orange, and on the opposite side, it went pink and then endless shades of mauve.

    Once it was dark, the Mushrooms started to be lit with a show called Aurora, in which different coloured lighting moves around the surface.

    On my way back past the catedral I spotted 2 things I’d not noticed before. First, just outside one of catedral entrances is the starting point for the Via de la Plata (Silver Way) which meets the Camino Frances in Astorga. Second, I found what appears to be a full size copy of the weather vane on top of the La Giralda tower.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Seville Santa Justa estación de tren
    Apparently this castle starred in Game of Thrones

    0837 to Córdoba

    November 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    After an earlier start, I made my way to the Santa Justa Estación de Tren, in order to catch the 0837 AVE high speed train towards Barcelona. I was however only going one stop, to Cordoba, about 45 mins away.

    If you’ve not heard of Córdoba, it was pretty much the centre of the Western world in the 10th century, when it was potentially the largest city in European with a population of at least several 100,000s, and known as a centre of advancements in medicine, mathematics, art, philosophy, literature, science, and other fields. (In contrast, no other cities had populations of more than 30,000).

    Founded by the Romans in about 160 BC because of its strategic location. The city was razed to the ground in a siege and rebuilt by Julius Caesar in about 45 BC as a Roman colony, so all its inhabitants automatically became Roman citizens. The city was the birthplace of Seneca (the philosopher).

    Like much of the rest of Spain, Córdoba was ruled by the Visigoths (an Eastern European tribe) from the 6th century until the arrival of the Moors in 712.

    By 756, a Umayyad prince arrived who declared a politically independent emirate centred on Córdoba but still spiritually and culturally linked to the Caliphate of Damascus. In 929 the local emir promoted himself to Caliph and declared the caliphate of Córdoba, breaking away from religious connections to the Abbasid caliphate then based in Baghdad.

    Within 20 years, the Umayyad rulers of Córdoba controlled three quarters of today’s Spain & Portugal plus the area between Algeria & Morocco and the Atlantic Ocean, with trade links to Byzantium and the Holy Roman Empire. This was the height of al-Andalus, and Cordóba became second only to Byzantium in size, wealth and development.

    But by the 11th century, al-Andalus had begun to decline and fragment, and the Umayyads gave way to 25 mini kingdoms, and then later the Almorzads from North and West Africa, and then by the late 12th century, a Berber dynasty from North Africa, the Almohads took over an empire from Tripoli to southern Portugal. And by the northern three quarters of today’s Spain and Portugal were back in the hands of the Christian monarchs, as the Reconquista gradually pushed across the Iberian peninsula.

    However, my train didn’t quite take me back in time …    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    The horseshoe arches are remnants of the former minaretAt last at the top!The Mosque-Catedral building, the tallest portions are the Christian additionsThe Alcázar de Córdoba (behind the wall)Patio de los Naranjos (Courtyard of the Orange Trees), and formerly the ablutions courtyardEpiscopal building

    The Mezquita-Catedral

    November 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    My main reason for coming to Córdoba was to visit the Mezquita-Catedral deNuestra Señora de la Asunción (the Mosque-Catedral of Our Lady of the Assumption).

    Most commonly, it’s known as La Mezquita (Mosque). This might seem like an odd name for a consecrated and working catedral but the name indicates that this site preserves an extraordinary building, built as a Grand Mosque, later consecrated as a Christian church with dramatic and yet seamless “adaptions” to turn it into a cathedral.

    It is thought that there was an earlier church basilica or (as more recent archeology suggests) there an episcopal complex built by the Visigoths on the site in the 6-7th centuries but few traces of this remain. Muslim sources suggest that, after the Islamic conquest, this building was initially divided and shared between the Moors and Christians.

    In 785, the emir Abd al-Rahman I wanted to build a grand mosque and so bought out the Christians (who were allowed to rebuild several ruined churches), demolished the old structure, in order to build his grand mosque.

    After a 20 minute walk from the station, I arrived in good time for my timed ticket to climb the bell tower. This is a baroque tower which includes (and reinforces) within its lower structure, the former minaret.

    Much less high than La Giralda, and with steps not ramps, the views were still great.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Side chapelsOne of many side chapelsVisigothic mosaic floorThe 15th century gothic nave, known as the Villaviciosa ChapelRoof of Royal chapel 15th centuryVisigothic altar stoneVisigothic fontMihrabDetail from the Mihrab archDetail from the Mihrab archMihrab roof

    Mezquita-Catedral 2

    November 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    The outside doesn’t reveal too much about what’s inside.

    My first impression was that it is a massive space, much bigger (and taller) than I anticipated, having seen pictures and TV programmes filmed inside.

    Double arched columns stretch away in every direction.

    Although there seemed to be lots of tourists entering the building, we soon dispersed across the vast interior, and there were parts that seemed almost empty.

    Around the edge of what was previously the prayer hall, were many small chapels with richly decorated altars dedicated to different saints.

    In one spot, glass panels in the floor revealed a mosaic floor from the Visigothic building, about a metre below the current floor level. In a corner, several examples of Visigothic stone fragments were displayed.

    And then my visit was suddenly interrupted…    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler

    We interupt this visit …

    November 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    About 40 minutes after entering the building, introduced by a couple of organ chords, an urgent sounding announcement began in Spanish, followed by English, as security personnel began to appear at every entrance/exit. The announcement said they were carrying out an emergency evacuation drill and we all needed to leave immediately by the nearest exit. Security personnel directed the large crowd to leave the interior and to move to the far side of the spacious courtyard outside.

    As we emerged blinking into the bright sunshine, uniformed police were rushing into the courtyard to put up cordons to keep us away from the building. I asked a tour guide who I heard speaking English to her group if we were being asked to leave the courtyard and she said a guard told her we could stay there for now.

    Turning to face the mosque-catedral, a shocking scene appeared to be unfolding high on the roof of the catedral, above the high altar.

    Smoke was pouring from the roof as several fire hoses were played back and forth across the rooftops. Sirens filled the air and various police, fire engines and ambulances could be seen rushing past the courtyard walls, and then entering the building. More firefighters appeared on the rooftop in breathing apparatus.

    Although the announcement talked about a drill, the scene outside didn’t look like a drill at all. For probably 10 or so minutes, I (and many others) thought that we were witnessing a cultural disaster before our eyes (with the brief thought that I’d only seen part of the building and hadn’t yet seen the catedral proper at all). There crowd stood in almost silence, with most staring toward the fire.

    Several security personnel then moved through the crowd, handing out flyers (in Spanish and English) which confirmed that this was indeed a simulated emergency to test and learn from the catedral’s and the emergency services’ combined response. The mood in the courtyard immediately improved!

    After about 45 minutes, the “fire” was out and we were allowed back inside.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Arches in the final extension of the prayer hall faked the brick stripes with red paintChapel of the Tabernacle occupies one corner, with painted walls and arches.Main altarNorth transeptRoof above the choirChoir, the carving depicts the resurrection of JesusRight hand organ, played from the console oppositeLeft hand organ, which I heard being played by an organistMany biblical scenes are carved into the choir panellingMany biblical scenes are carved into the choir panellingThis is part of the original outer wall before the final expansion of the mosqueAnother part of the original outer wallThe interaction between the mosque arches & columns and the later modifications is seamlessCasts of masons' marks from the building of the mosqueSome of the mason's marks are plainly in ArabicOthers are not, suggesting probably Christian or Jewish masons were involved in building the mosque

    Mezquita-Catedral 3

    November 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Once back inside, I continued exploring amongst the forest of 850 columns.

    The main hall originally contained 11 naves, delineated by rows of columns and arches. The double-arches were an innovation here to allow for a higher ceiling.

    It was extended twice, as the population grew. First, the naves were lengthened in the 9th century, and then and additional 8 naves were added in the 10th century. After the third extension, the mihrab was not moved and so remains off centre. As was common in al-Andalus, the quibla wall faces due south (and not towards Mecca). On conversion into, and consecration as, a Christian church in the 13th century, the mihrab was consciously left intact as a reminder of the centuries of worship in the building’s prior existence.

    I finally now had time to explore the main cruciform worship space, added in the 16th and 17th centuries with mostly renaissance and baroque decoration.

    As was obvious from outside, this area is significantly taller, and light pours in through the large, mostly plain windows, creating a light, airy space.

    Incredibly, although there’s quite a contrast between the different parts of the building, the transition is largely seamless and it looks like it was built as a whole.

    The combined effect is really rather beautiful and awe-inspiring.

    It’s no surprise that the Mezquita-Catedral was voted by Spaniards as one Spain’s top 12 places, and came first in Europe and second in the world in a Tripadvisor survey of visitor attractions.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Aubergine with black honeyFlammequin, a traditional Andulusian dish named after a Spanish King's Flemish courtiers' hair styleOranges with olive oil and cinnamonAlcázar wallAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardens, looking from upper level towards the middle and lower levelsAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardens, middle gardenAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardensAlcázar gardens10th century watermillHeronShagsRoman Bridge

    Córdoba

    November 27, 2025 ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Although early by Spanish standards, I was ready for lunch when I left the Mezquita-Catedral. I found a delightful restaurant which catered for tourists wanting meals at odd times, although I was initially the first and only customer for lunch. Others soon began to arrive.

    Once refreshed, it was time to explore the rest of the city.

    Córdoba has its own Alcázar de los Reyes Católicos (of the Catholic Monarchs) but it is presently closed for the year for restoration. However, the gardens are open without charge, and so I managed to do the opposite of my visit to Seville’s Alcazar. As in Seville, this Alzácar replaced an earlier fortified palace built by the Umayyads in the 9-10th centuries.

    Clearly November’s not the best time to look round a garden, even in southern Spain, but I enjoyed strolling around the multiple different sections in the warm sun, following in the footsteps of the Catholic Monarchs.

    I then followed the bank of the Rio Guadalquivir (yes, the same river as flows through Sevilla), passing a 10th century water mill, heading for the Roman Bridge.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Torre de la CalahorraInside the modelInside the modelInside the modelInside the modelModelViews from the tower roofAlcázar & gardensAnother Camino sign spotted from the towerMezquita outer wall (for real - not the museum model)One of the many Mezquita gates, I think this is the one with some Visigothic elements

    Córdoba 2

    November 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    At the far side of the bridge stands the Torre de la Calahorra, which contains a museum about life in 10th century Córdoba.

    I decided it was time to quench my thirst with a tinto de verano, and so I headed to a nearby bar just beyond the bridge. Not far from the bar, I spotted a sign for the Camino Mozárabe de Santiago, a couple of signs for yet another of the dozen or so Caminos thst criss-cross Spain. The word “Mozárabe” means a Christian who lived and worked amongst the Islamic emirate or caliphate.

    I went back to the museum, which presented a fascinating picture of life and times in Cordaba’s heyday. The technology and medical advancements here seemed to be light years ahead of Anglo-Saxon England in the 10th century.

    The views from the top of the tower were pretty good too!    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Model showing part of the mosque (far side) and the baths on near left
    Warm room"Shower" cubicleHot room boilerCold room in the later complexHot room in later complex, reusing the earlier boiler roomWarm room in later complexAverroes. 10th century Islamic philosopherCity wallCity wallsSeneca monumentPonds outside city wallCourtyard inside 10th century houseCourtyard fountainInner courtyardCellarStreet in the Jewish QuarterBull fighting museumPatatas mozárabe, with randomly spiced mayonnaise and sauceHamburguesa barbacoa (BBQ burger)

    Baths and bulls (and a house) - Córdoba

    November 27, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Next I headed to the Caliphal Baths, believed to have been built as part of the original (and no longer extant) Alcázar complex in the 10th century and for private use by the Caliph and his family. There were some 300 public bath complexes across the rest of the city for everyone else!

    The baths were built in 3 successive iterations but each time took a similar format to traditional Roman or Arabic Hamman baths, with a room for undressing, cold, warm and hot rooms with different pools and treatments. One version of the warm room included a small enclosure with a jet of warm water from overhead, much like a modern waterfall shower! The warm and hot rooms had underfloor and wall hypocaust heating systems.

    I wandered along by the city walls, passing a monument to an Islamic philosopher from the 10th century and another to Seneca, the philosopher who was born in the Roman city in 4 BC.

    My next stop was a 10th century house in the Jewish quarter, showing what was said to be a “typical” home from the 10th century. I’m not sure how typical and it had the feel of an old house full of older things, where the owners were happy to charge a few € for folk to look around their house!

    Lastly, it was time for the bulls and the Museo Municipal de Arte Taurino (Museum of the Art of Bullfighting). I’d read somewhere that this celebrated the animal and the skills of past bullfighters but recognised the modern criticism of bullfighting as a cultural phenomenon. I’d say the first and second messages were loud and clear, but the third passed me by! The section on bulls, their origins and natural habit etc was interesting, albeit I instinctively kept a watchful eye on the life size replica bull at the far end of the gallery, with a projected background of several more bulls in a large meadow. I’m sure it moved nearer when I wasn’t looking.

    I then found a restaurant for dinner and then began to walk back to the station in good time for the fast train back to Sevilla, and via the edge of the modern city centre. As I passed an ancient church, I saw someone enter through the main door, and thought it was late for a church to be open and so I followed, and found myself part way through Mass. I took a seat and enjoyed being amongst a crowd of worshippers, even through I was mostly able to do little more than watch and listen to the service, but stumbling over vague recollections of part of the congregational responses without any service book in front of me.

    I continued to the station, located the right platform and passed through security in order to wait for 2155 to Seville and, before I knew it, we arrived back in Seville.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Christopher Columbus monument, Parque Murillo
    Plaza de EspañaNorth Tower, Plaza de EspañaThe moat is usually full of water, and boats can be hired to row around the moatEmpty moatThe moat is crossed by 4 bridges, one for each of main 4 kingdoms of SpainEach province is represented by a bench and tiled background - this is the Baleares50 famous Spanish personalities are celebrated with busts - this is El CidBench for Burgos, where I started my Camino walk last yearMap of Burgos provinceCuruña province, which includes Santiago de CompostelaMap of Coruña provinceBench for León provinceMap of LeónFlamenco! Olé!Some of those watching got up and joined in. I stayed at a safe distance!

    Parque de María Luisa & Plaza de España

    November 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After a rather long and fun filled day yesterday, I got up a bit later and had a more restful morning hanging out with a book.

    After lunch, I took a stroll through the Parque Murillo (named in honour of the Spanish painter Bartholomew Murillo) and then to Sevilla’s largest park, the Parque de María Luisa.

    The latter was donated in 1893 to the city by Infanta María Luisa Fernanda de Borbón. The Ibérico-American Exposition of 1929 was hosted in the park and several (permanent) pavilions including the Plaza de España were built in the park in preparation for the Exposition, which celebrated the connections between Spain, Portugal, the Spanish speaking countries of Latin America and Brazil, and North America.

    The Plaza de España was the largest structure, with 48 tiled panels featuring each of the Spanish provinces, office for various government agencies and a large barracks accommodation, all set in a semicircular building and public square.

    You might recognise the Plaza de España from Attack of the Clones (it featured as the Naboo palace), Lawrence of Arabia (British Army headquarters in Cairo) or the Dictator (Sacha Baron Cohen’s dictator’s mansion).

    Today it was full of people watching the world go by, groups chatting or playing together, and some flamenco dancing.

    I watched the flamenco group for quite a while. There was lots of foot stamping and clapping, and dramatic dancing. After some time, the group encouraged some of those watching to join in. Those who did clearly knew what they were doing, and danced for several songs along the group.

    By the time the flamenco finished, the light was fading.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Ayuntamiento (City Hall) lit to look like gingerbreadHanging kebabSan Pedro Nalaco, by VasquezColumbus returning from his trip and reporting back to the Spanish king and queen, by SusilloThe building, a former convent, is quite beautiful tooDolorosa, by MurilloJan van Bruegel, Earthly paradiseSan Louis Beltran, by ZurbaranMurillo, the Incarnation, when her pregnancy was announced to MaryMoses striking the rock in the desert, by MurilloFeeding of the 5,000, by MurilloBrass band concert just outside the museoThis was described as a typical Seville sweet made from egg yolk. Very rich and sweet!

    Evening walk and Museo de Bellas Artes

    November 28, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I continued out of the Parque Marie Luisa, past the main buildings of Seville University (ina former tobacco factory) and onto the Avenida de Constitución, one of major streets near the Catedral.

    I found an interesting ice cream parlour, who fashioned 4 flavours of ice cream in a cone into a flower.

    I stopped for dinner at one of the restaurants recommended by my tour guide on Tuesday. I went for a brocheta of pork and chorizo, which turned out to be a hanging kebab to the delight as entertainment of a Dutch family group at the next table, who took pictures and asked me to show them where this was in the menu!

    My next stop was a late night visit to the Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla, the fine art museum. This was filled with various paintings by members of the so called Seville School, including Murillo, Vasquez, Bruegel the Younger, Zurburan and Roldán, as well as lots of early medieval religious art.

    I discovered a marching brass playing a concert just outside the museo and so stood to watch for while.

    I stopped for a pudding on my way back to the hotel. I went for a “Dulce de Yema típico de Sevilla” (Egg yolk sweet typical from Seville). The top white section tasted like Gree yoghurt, the yellow was the consistency of lemon curd but not really lemony and there was a sticky brown sauce at the bottom. Incredibly rich and sweet.    Read more

  • Iain ColvilleSeis días en SevillaTraveler
    Looking back towards Sevilla shortly after takeoffBilbao at 30,000'

    Homeward bound

    November 29, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Sadly my trip has come to an end and, having packed last night, I caught the airport bus at 0653 and was at the airport for just after 0736.

    After passing through security and passport control relatively quickly in a smallish airport, there was plenty of time to grab breakfast and a further coffee whist waiting for my flight to be called.

    We left about 10 minutes late, but still arrived about 10 minutes early into a damp and cold Birmingham just before midday. Every time the captain gave us update, he stressed that the weather at our destination would be rather more cold than in Seville. He wasn’t wrong!    Read more

    Trip end
    November 29, 2025
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