… Ceramics Museum and a third church

After a quick tapas of potatoes in oil & vinegar (much more delicious than it sounds in English), and an Iberian ham & pepper sandwich, I set off to try and remember where my tour guide had shown us her favourite ice cream shop. I eventually found it and tried her recommendation: a cream cheese and fig ice cream. It was v rich but delicious (and again more so than it sounds!)

It was then time to head to Triana, the traditionally working class district on the far side of the Rio Guadalquivir. Triana is named for the Roman Emperor Trajan, and the location of a dozen potteries from the 12th century onwards - Seville’s answer to Stoke on Trent.

My target was the Centro Cerámica Triana, a museum in the former factory of Cerámica Santa Ana-Rodríguez Díaz. The site includes 16th century kilns and and explanation of the history of the local lotteries, with examples of their work. I of course had a little potter in the extensive shop, containing many examples of their current local output.

Next, I had a stroll through Triana, starting by the riverside, enjoying the views back towards the historic centre, with the bull ring, catedral and the Torre de Oro on the other side of the river.

I then found my third church of the day, La Real Parroquia de Señora Santa Ana (Royal Parish church of Saint Anne, the mother of Mary). This church was the first to be built on a new site after the Reconquista, at the direction of King Alfonso X the Wise. A very friendly man was on the reception desk, very keen to chat to me in Spanish, even after I’d told him that I spoke only a little Spanish and after we’d established that he didn’t speak any English! I gathered that he wanted to tell me how to find an interesting convent nearby, including taking me out into the street to give me directions. I think I understood about a third of what he was telling me (mostly the directions).

But it was time to head back into the city centre and to head for my next stop - which involved a timed ticket.Read more