• Sue Wang
  • Sue Wang

Namibia

Ein 17-Tage Abenteuer von Sue Weiterlesen
  • Opuwo

    22. November 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    The first real African town. A lot of Himba women with bare breasts walking around. Streets are crowded with people, and small stores. I was overwhelmed by how busy it was. Women stood the side of the car and asked me to buy their jewelries while Finn filled up the gas.

    We stayed the campsite of Opuwo County Hotel. The road up to here including the road inside the hotel property was so bad you can’t believe it they were for the best hotel in town which had a swimming pool and beautiful restaurant. The world of inside and outside is totally different. The campsite is pretty good, with decent ablution.

    The name of Opuwo was hard to pronounce.

    We checked in and got to the campsite #2, then discussed what to do tomorrow. Finn pulled out his Namibia 4x4 map (he got it for the trip which tells the roads that requires to have a 4x4 car, the distance and how long it will take to drive) and told me his plan. First he wanted to visit a Himba village, then drive to a 4x4 road to Van Zyl. From Van Zyl, go down to Sesfontein if time allowed. The problem we had at the moment was we didn’t know where to find a Himba village. The lodge provided a guided tour to Himba Living Museum but the girl at reception won’t tell us whereabouts of it (or she might not know) and the town didn’t have a tourist information office. Finn got frustrated. I suddenly remembered the little round house next to our campsite, people lived were locals. They might know. So I jumped up and “knocked” on the door. Sure enough the guy was the tour guide of the Himba Living Museum. He told Finn that how to get to the Himba village and mentioned someone who drove on the 4x4 road had a flat tire. But he said your car, the Toyota Land Cruisers, had no problem to handle the road. So, we got the information for everything we needed to know. Finn was lightened up again. We cooked quickly, and wanted to see the sunset from the poolside, which proven to be impossible time wise. The sun had already gone behind the hill before we started to have dinner. Finn grilled pork chops. I didn’t eat mine as I always have very light dinner. I saved mine for tomorrow lunch.

    After dinner we walked to the hotel for a drink. Finn had a glass of white wine which was not properly chilled. I had a bottle of beer. We sat at the outdoor couches, the next table were a group of Chinese but I could not figure out what was the dialect they used. A Da Ma, “big mom” which is not a complimentary word for women over 40 but before they aged to grandmas because a lot of them liberated themselves from the shy and self awareness young ladies to showy, loud, and careless women, wore traditional Chinese Gong Fu suit made out of satin, very shining. Finn thought it was pajama. No, it was not.

    It was pitch dark when we got back to the campsite. Some young people, Finn said they were from South Africa, stayed at the other sites were having a grill party. Two black guys who we later believed were the security of the lodge were sitting next to our campsite quietly and watching. The party finished around 11. I could sleep with some noise but Finn had to use ear plugs so he hates anyone who makes big sound, that includes me from time to time.
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  • Himba Living Muesum

    23. November 2019 in Namibia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    With the direction given by the tour guide in the lodge we found the “living museum” pretty easily. We first stopped at the grocery in Opuwo and bought more milk, juice water, and snacks for ourselves and bought breads, potatoes and carrots as gifts for the Himba people. Some women and children gathered around the car before we walked in the grocery store and asked for food or buy “jewelry” from them. Finn gave them a loaf of bread and a big bag of potatoes then drove off. Twenty minutes later he found a quiet place along side the road we then organized the grocery, put some of them into the fridge.

    The admission fee for the museum was N$500. The young man was a college student, the museum was founded by his brother. He spoke decent English so we could have some understanding how Himba people live. Their main diet are the milk/meat from goats they raised. Each so-called village normally started with a husband and a wife. More huts were added when they had more children.

    The guide pointed out the Mopane tree, leaves for cure, drink the water after boiling, paste to cover the wound, ashes to clean the hair for women. We saw a lot of them in Etosha but wondered why no animals ate them. He said the full grown leaves tasted bitter. Animals would only eat new leaves when they just sprouted.
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  • More pictures of Himba Living Museum

    23. November 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The village is a showcase of how Himba people live. So people acted on their roles when we walked close to them. We saw them doing metal works; sitting in the cottages that were so low one could only sit inside; women put on the red clay on body, which was powder ground from red rocks shipped here from northern Namibia and mixed it with butter from the milk; making corn meals, etc. The last act was a dancing show. I believe they enjoyed singing and dancing the most. Almost all of them from different posts joined together when a few started to sing and dance. The lyric sounded quite simple, a lot of repeated pronunciations. The guide said they sang the mountains and rivers, like the colors and the shape of them.

    We left them a bag of potatoes and a loaf bread. The guide also asked for cold water, we instead gave him a box of juice. The woman in the last picture was their “controller”. The other guy was the black smith. He and his brother danced with the girls. His brother was cute and smiled more.

    Finn said it was hard to take pictures of them because they were too dark. He was right. When I looked at the pictures now they don’t have layers and shades. They looked all dark even in the eye-blinding brightness.

    We left the village before 12, as planned. And I drove!
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  • From the Himba Museum to Okangwati

    23. November 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I drove from the Himba place to Okangwati. As usual Finn wasn’t happy by the way I drove. He was especially nervous when crossing a narrow bridge, afraid that I would drive the car off the bridge. He said “it was this close to the edge!”, his hands were together and showed the space of a half foot. I believed my own judgement but gradually changed to the center of the road. He also complained that I didn’t slow down the speed when I drove from a down slope to a upslope where there were so many of them. I was unhappy when he made so many negative comments and felt he should talk more gently. But later on when I changed my way of driving and he complained less I realized it was not easy to put the comments gently when he saw the move as “dangerous”. Anyhow I drove to Okangwati safely. It was a very small town. After we switched Finn drove around the town but didn’t find a gas station.Weiterlesen

  • A wrong turn while looking for D3703

    23. November 2019 in Namibia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    D3703 was not well marked, actually it was not marked at all. We could see the road on the GPS but not at the site. When we approached an “intersection” (intersection was an upgraded word for one dirt road divided into two) an arrow pointed to one direction and the other one lied behind it looked very insignificant. So we turned left following the arrow. After driving on it for about two kilometers we found we were not on D3703. It was a road south of D3703. On Finn’s map this one and D3703 formed a loop, this was 64 kilometers and 3703 was 61. Not seeing it on GPS plus it was 3 kilometers longer Finn decided to turn back and look for D3703. While heading back we crossed a car full of locals and asked for “Etanga”. The guy smiles and nodded so we moved on. We thought we could spend the night at Etanga at the time...

    We passed by a hot spring and people gather around the water, looking like doing laundry. A tiny stream came down from the spring and along it the grass were the greenest. A few cows scattered around, and also a dead cow lay there, looked untouched. I wonder why the locals didn’t do anything about it, like taking the skin for some use.

    We turned back to the point where the arrow sign was and took the road looked less traveled behind the sign. GPS showed we are on the right track.
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  • Van Zyl Campsite

    24. November 2019 in Namibia ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We both breathed in relief when the sign of Van Zyl Campsite showed up. It was like seeing a safe harbor after a long day struggling in sea. Finn was ready to turn back to some less populated area and camp at the roadside. The thought of it had made him very uncomfortable.

    The camp was built along a dried river with sandy bed. Finn then turned back to the entrance and took the other route. We stayed The next morning
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