A Scorcher

Hot weather predicted, so we set off earlyish to avoid the heat - into the cool, bright chill of the morning. Hardly a soul down in the woods, or on the country lanes. Just the occasional dog barking “hello” or “get lost pilgrim”- the occasional scent of orange blossom - the cottage gardens with semi-detached vegetable patches blending into the fields - a vivid blue sky over the plantations of eucalyptus, clearing the senses.

A cafe stop at a crossroads, for tea, coffee, and a couple of chunks of ring cake that tasted like madeleines gritted with sugar. WhatsApping. Sitting outside under the trees as the traffic passed.

A brief stop at a passport stamp stall, in its own special shelter, the table decorated with spiritual books, and an incense burner under a clam shell. We took a photo for a German lady who had been walking the route since April, and she did the same for us, before parting ways into yet more eucalyptus - “auf weidersehn” and “buen Camino”.

A little close-up with a beautiful white horse that was seducing passing pilgrims with its long eyelashes, and velvet grey muzzle, and we were almost done for the day, ’there’ being ‘Pedrouzo’ with its cockerel in a football scarf on a plinth, outside the town hall! Just perfectly timed to check in to our albergue, have a quick lie down and then head out for lunch in a restaurant looking out over the Galician valley below. Paella (surf and turf), and a small beer of course.Read more