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Camino Santiago via Podiensis
  • Sarah Naylor
  • Sarah Naylor

Camino Santiago via Podiensis

So once again 4 retirees are about to embark on another slightly longish walk of 780 km through a fair bit of french country . Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 6, 2025
    Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    7Brian preparing well for the long walk!
    1

    Preparing in Fiji

    August 28, 2025 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    So with a bit of ? gentle persuasion from Lee we are embarking on another Camino walking 780 km over 40 days through the Sth West of France . We start in Le Puy (near Lyon) and end at St John Pied -de- Port which is where we started the last Camino. Why are we doing it? Because we can hopefully! If you want to join the adventure from afar over your early cup of tea then join us!
    Brian and I have just returned from 8 wonderful days in Fiji with Tom Lou and children and all the Anderson family which had been pre-booked before we decided to do another Camino. Maybe not the best way to train for a long walk but it was fun!
    On the Camino we stay in Gites which are family run hostels and we have communal meals so hopefully we understand a little Francais. We can only improve. Luckily after 2 years since the last Camino we have forgotten the aches and pains at the end of a long days walking but instead remember the cold beer at the end of the day, plus not knowing what the day will bring and knowing the only thing we really have to do each day is put one foot in front of the other and stay upright!
    We start on the 6th September and finish on the 15th October
    Let the adventure begin    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    1

    On our way

    August 31, 2025 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Au revoir mon chers amis!
    Bags packed and we are off. Not sure I need my tilly hat today as bucketing down so let's hope we get to Auckland!
    Will miss this view and our Bunty but she is in great hands with Paul and Carol who are house sitting!
    Will post next when in Dijon tasting the wines the baguettes and the mustard@    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    1

    NZ to Dijon

    September 3, 2025 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Well we made it to Dijon by various modes but after much weariness getting here, we have really enjoyed our time in pretty Dijon .Jane describes it as a rustic Bordeaux. The highlight was meeting up again with our fellow Camino walkers Jane and Lee which was celebrated by beautiful French cuisine dining Al Fresco and the wine to go with it.
    Dijon is the gateway to the Burgundy region with a beautiful old palace once inhabited by the Burgundy lords in the centre of yhe town housing a huge collection of medieval art mainly featuring Jesus and his followers and rather chubby Madonnas!
    After our touch of culture we spent the rest of the day enjoying the cafes the people and all the charm France can give.
    Would highly recommend Dijon as a city to visit known of course for its mustard. We did try the local delicacy of truffles on buttery breas. Absolutely delicious!
    Now sitting at train station to take train to Lyon. What adventures await and I think our first day of walking will be a shock!    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    A little bit of rain in Lyon
    Beautiful breads for breakfastQuaint dining room at our hotel in LyonLe PuyArrival in Le Puy!

    Le Puy en Velay

    September 4, 2025 in France ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    So after trains trains and more trains we have arrived in Le Puy ready to start the big walk tomorrow!
    We spent yesterday in Lyon a city of 5 million. The pouring rain curtailed our sightseeing slightly but we did manage to go on a barge trip up the river which is a nice thing yo do when it's raining and you are feeling the mid afternoon sleepiness of jet lag .
    Lyon is pretty in the same way as Paris and apart from hosting the All Blacks for the last world cup its also known for all the underground tunnels that were once used by the silk traders and then used by the French resistance in WW2.
    Our hotel was very quaint with a room so small you could hardly move but a jazz theme was the decor. The eco vibe too was very evident even giving us home made herbal teas. Delicious.
    The evening was spent enjoying the wines and foods of the district, after all it would be rude of us not to!
    Today we made our way to the train station and met David McCarter from Ireland ( Robertas brother) It was a great reunion and he met Jane and Lee for the first time. David is walking the first 9 days with us.
    On we trained through St Etienne and another train to our final destination Le Puy. It's a beautiful day here and the town is vibrant dominated by a big cathedral on hill where we will start the walk tomorrow. Le Puy is famous for the lentils known here as poor man's caviar.
    Not sure if we are quite ready for the big walk but think it will be a good remedy for all the local cuisine we seem to be consuming. We are just back from a late lunch of delicious buckwheat pancakes. Walking poles have been bought and hopefully an early night and we will be on our way early tomorrow after a pilgrims mass. My bunions are in for a rude awakening!    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    Early morning start1Chewing the fat1Beers with all our fellow walkers1David and self at the beginning1

    Day 1 Le Puy to St Privat d'Allier

    September 6, 2025 in France ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Always a big day, the first day of walking and today was 24 km of a relatively easy walk *( not that my feet were thinking that after about 17km)
    We had the le puy lentils last night with a sausage so that set us up for today I think?
    We were up early this morning so we could attend the Catholic mass service at 7 am as decided we needed all the help we could muster! It's quite a tradition to start this Camino with mass and then the floor comes up in the Cathedral where all the walkers walk out to start the pilgrim!
    A quick brekky after and off we set.
    It was quite a misty start but the day soon cleared into a beautiful autumn day and got up to 27.
    For the first part of the walk we knew the ABS were playing so dear brother Bill was giving us frequent updates to satisfy Brian and Lee. Ir was quite a skill to manage walking poles rocky paths and holding my phone for updates but a great result and thanks Bill .
    There seems to be great comraderie on this walk and already we have befriended a Swiss guy Michelwho has walked from Geneva and a couple from SA so a bit of rugby ribbing there!
    Nothing was open for lunch so it was cheeses and a baguette under a tree for lunch .
    The countryside is quite isolated with beautiful plowed fields with dark rich soil, corn fields and a few cows and horses on rolling countryside.
    It was a steep descent into St Privat d'Allier and our feet were feeling it. Luckily some shade with spruce trees along the way.The first place we headed to was the bar with lots of beers and banter with fellow walkers Our little town here is so pretty and in the winter is covered in snow. Our meal at the hostel tonight was 3 course and absolutely delicious with local red wine to try.
    Pretty tired now but good to have the first day under our belt.
    Happy Father's day to all you wonderful Dads out there.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    The local bakery
    Heading off from St PrivatRocky descentRock climbing2Rest timeFinally near the topA big climb aheadNearly at Saugues..thankgoodness

    Day 2 St Privat to Sauges

    September 7, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today was a big day of walking! Not so much in kilometers but in just hard yakker. We left St Privat full of energy after good night's sleep and a good breakfast with coffee served in a bowl! Baguettes and fruit were purchased at the local boulangerie ( bakery) and on we marched.
    We knew it was going to be a descent into a valley where the
    Allier river runs and then up again the other side but we were not prepared for the steep descent into Monistrol It was real ankle breaking territory and we trod very carefully..no falling heavily here! It was difficult due to big rocks and slippery ?shale but finally we got down to Monistrol with a coffee stop on the way at a cute little stall. We were needing that. The day was getting warmer but luckily odd bits of shade here and there.
    Monistrol has a bridge designed by the architect who designed the Eiffel tower which one of the locals were very keen to point out.
    The total descent was 600 meters but then as pleased as we were to get that out of the way we then had to embark on a 500 meter ascent out of the valley. Luckily quite a bit of walking was in the shade but it was a slog. There were rock climbers doing their thing and it looked pretty scary. As we got near the top we stopped for a much needed rest and lunch.
    Never had a baguette with salami cheese and tomato tasted so good. The camembert was particularly smelly and particularly good! Carrying the cheeses in our pack is probably not the most social thing to do.
    Once we got to the top of the valley we had a fairly ordinary walk in the heat along rural paths and roads with happy cows grazing and rolling hills but we were all a bit over the views and just needed beers and a shower!
    Finally after another quite steep descent we arrived into Saugues.
    We haven't seen much of the town as walking around the town centre had very little appeal. Saugues is 965 meter elevation and the heart of the Margeride region.
    We are staying at another cute Gite and the wife is lovely but the husband is a bit of a grumpy one. Brian and David have been watching Ireland play NZ in the womans rugby.
    There is a delicious smell coming from the kitchen and I am beginning to feel quite hungry! We will all hopefully sleep well tonight with another's long day of walking ahead of us. Thanks for the encouraging comments along the way.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    1Breakfast this morning
    The long walk beginsA quick breakFarm house cafeMulti tasking farmer serving up the quicheAdmiring the hollyhocksThe wolf beast! Entering it's territory!Jane loved the horsesHappy cow2Florence our host and her husbandDavid at our 1906 gite

    Day 3 Saugues to Les Faux

    September 8, 2025 in France ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Today was a long day of walking. 29 km in all. We started at 8am and didn't finish until after 4 so the beautiful old stone gite we are staying in sure was a sight for sore eyes!
    We had a great stay last night in Saugues with a gorgeous host named Florence and her husband.
    We were invited for aperitifs which was white wine with a syrup ranging from blueberry or hazelnut. Not your usual cocktail and rather sweet but went down well. Then the dinner was served and we all sat together with 2 American couples from Vermont. Florence and her husband spoke pretty good English. Beef bourginon was the main dish which was much appreciated after the day we had! Florence and her husband host pilgrims 7 days a week with no days off for 7 months of the year and then have 5 months off. Every night they dine with their guests
    This morning we set off with pretty sore muscles but they warmed up. We thought we were going to get rain but our luck held and it was perfect walking weather.
    We are now in the heart of the Margeride region which is famous for the wolf like beast that use to terrorise the area. I am happy to say we didn't encounter any wild beasts!
    We did stop at 1 farm house cafe after about 10 km and apparently was open but no one was about so slightly puzzled we went to leave and then appeared the farmer and his dog . Dressed in overalls and gumboots he had been busy attending to farm details but now was ready to serve us! A photo below shows his wee kitchen.
    On we walked knowing it was going to be a long day so had a stop at a café in the middle of a paddock where beautiful fresh orange juice was served plus coffee. Lee partaked in a rhubarb flan which looked very tasty.
    The walk was apart from being long , quite pleasant and slowly rising high up to a volcanic plateau. Lovely forests of oak and spruce trees and more happy cows.
    There is always fun banter along the way and the French are great and usually very friendly.
    Enough chat and will get ready for dinner in our 1906 gite. What will it be!    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    A rainy start in Nasbinals
    Meandering down beautiful forests of hazel oak and beechRocky and slippery underfoot1So happy3 old guys enjoying the rest. Giant cow bells behindPonchos outTypical house of the area

    Day 6. Nasbinals to St Chelly d'Aubrac

    September 11, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    With a slightly disturbed night of maybe too much aligot and hearing the rain pouring down outside we headed off into misty rain . For the first time it was quite chilly but I guess we are high up. The town of Nasbinals is very pretty but small and isolated. We climbed up to the summit of the Aubrac plateu and had a stop at a tiny shepherds hut where the rain continued to fall so the ponchos were put on and then after being up at nearly 1400 meters we descended slowly to 800 meters. I say slowly because the path was very rocky and slippery but it was wonderful to get out of the exposed plateau into the cover of chestnut oaks and beech trees. The cattle were just grazing peacefully and Jane and I keep wanting to take photos of them.
    We had lunch at a cute café with giant cowbells adorning the walls. Delicious blueberry pies and expensive coffees ( 4 euro each) Lee declared the soup he had was the worst he had ever!
    It was only a 17km walk today but varied and pretty. I did manage to have 1 fall but luckily backwards onto my shoulder. No harm done. It made me feel better that a young guy behind me also slipped over.
    Saint Chelly is very quaint and population of 600. I feel like we could be in a ski lodge.
    Team of 10 feet holding up well!    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
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    Day 7 Saint Chelly to St Come - d - Olt

    September 12, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today was to be another shorter walk..yay! We left St Chelly in perfect walking conditions. Cool and no rain and climbed out of the town full of energy and revived feet.
    The scenery again was stunning with such cute old stone buildings, beautiful old beech trees, and chestnut trees.
    One notable difference from a walk in NZ bush is that there is no birdsong. I think I heard 1 duck. There were a few hills and steep descent today plus not 1 toilet or place to eat until we were near the finish and hadn't prepared to picnic like alot of the walkers. When we did come to a cute lunch place at the top of a hill we were well ready for lunch. I ordered a " chicken sandwich " which was half a French stick so more than enough! No toilets thoughts they on a septic tank.
    We walked into St Come d Olt reputed to be one of the most beautiful towns in France and the centre is from the medieval times . Our hotel is so old fashioned in the loveliest of ways . Charm and quiet elegance is everywhere in France.
    We now in the Lot river valley.
    Time for a walk around the center.
    Not sure we will be watching All Blacks play tomorrow but hope all goes well.
    Just back from the most delicious meal from hosts of gite we are staying at. Tomato cheese tart and salad. Veal stew with rice and a apple tart. We all sat at tables together and at our table was Jacque and his lovely Vietnamese wife Lin. Turns out Jacque was head of Lorreal and Keratase in France. He shouted us all liquers and then bed time . The beauty of this town is that it is so picturesque but no tourists.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    1

    Day 8 Saint Come d Olt to Estaing

    September 13, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We got away about 830 in fine weather with a nice walk along the Lot River. It was so scenic leaving the town but wasn't long before the rain set in. Once again Bill was keeping us informed of how the ABs were going which sadly not the result any kiwi was wanting.
    The rain stopped for awhile and we visited a romanesque old old church along the way. After 7 km we walked into Espalion which has a very pretty entry along the Lot river. It was typical of any town on a Saturday with kids playing sport and I think the end of a park run. It didn't take long for Brian to find a cafe where the rugby was on so watched the end of the game.
    The rain started to pour down so Brian and I decided to taxi to Estaing while the others braved the elements.
    However there were no taxis answering so the lovely young girl in the tourist office told us of a free bus to Estaing at 130pm for the medieval festival here. We were getting on that bus!
    Had a leisurely lunch while we waited and I had an underwhelming dish of escargots bur Brian loved his burger and chips!
    The bus ride only took about 15 minutes and we arrived in Estaing another gorgeous medieval town and the festival was in full swing with lots of music, legs of lamb on spits and people dressed up in medieval gear.
    We not long back from a local pub where we had pork and chips and crepes for dessert. The owner a real character who shouted us all a mint aperitif.
    Happy days and loved having a day of not walking so much!    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    Leaving Estaing over the medieval bridgeWild crocuss and cyclamen1Pumpkins and sunflowersA cup of tea and Lemon cake await!Castle at EstaingOff we go again all fresh and chirpyHaving fun in the cute restaurant last night where the owner was life and soul of the place

    Day 9 Estaing to Golinhac

    September 14, 2025 in France ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    After a fun night with the Medieval theme going on we set off armed with baguettes ham and a local cheese as we didn't think being a Sunday much would be open ( we were right). Estaing looked stunning as we left and hard to believe this town is so old and unchanged for hundreds of years. No earthquakes here!
    The first part of the walk was I have to say a bit of a slog with an 800 meter ascent over about 8 km. The walk was mainly on road but very quiet country roads . We climbed out of the Lot valley leaving the beautiful river behind with the odd fisherman here and there. Unfortunately it was a bit of a misty day turning to rain so the views looking back were not brilliant. At 1030 we saw a gite in the distance and all felt like a coffee so David rang as his French isn't bad. Yes they could make coffee so in we trekked having to ring bell loudly and call out for service. The coffee was wonderful and all for 8 euro.
    Just by chance we met a NZ couple and their daughter who came from Rotorua. Only the 3rd lot of kiwis we have seen.
    The 2nd half of the walk was easier with dirt paths through forests of beech and oak plus wild crocuss and cyclamen on side of the road. We stopped for lunch in the forest and certainly enjoyed our crusty bread rolls..
    The rain started up but finally after 16 or so km ended up at Golinhac high up at 635 meters and we are now in the Ocitaine region It is a tiny place with apparently stunning views down the Lot valley but we have yet to see.
    The church is about 15th Century and is named St Martin after a famous Roman soldier who cut his cloak in half to share with a beggar so he got the thumbs up from the pilgrim fraternity. My pilgrim poncho is rapidly splitting in half but will mend with duck tape.
    After a fairly strenuous days walking we celebrated with cups of tea and lemon cake.
    We are in a quaint hotel and can hear the rain outside . The team of 10 feet doing well and not a blister between us!    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler

    Golinhac to Conques

    September 15, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Good dinner last night of duck in a marrow! The duck tasted quite wild and was delicious . Brian and Lee had the pork bur Brian felt it needed gravy ( sound familiar Bridget!)
    We enjoyed the local red wine once again.
    So off we set this morning for a " moderate to strenuous " walk of 21km and so it was. It was beautiful walking through the old ancient forests of chestnuts and walnut trees, apple trees dripping with fruit..no wasps . There was quite a bit of road walking but very quiet country lanes.
    The elevation was 400 meters so quite a few steep ascents but we did have a few stops and picniced under a big old chestnut trees where I could put my legs up.
    The little villages were all so quaint and the usual drystone houses and churches that you never get sick of.
    Finally after a very steep descent of 2km we arrived in the stunningly beautiful picturesque town of Conques. You feel like you are in the middle of a fairytale and so pleased we are having a days rest tomorrow to really explore. The abbey was founded here in 860 and the houses all of the same era and totally adds to the charm. Its the most tourists we have seen anywhere on the walk but its still so quiet with hardly any cars.Our hotel gite is wonderful with a washing machine! We'll its time to meet up for drinks with Jacque and Lan the L'Orreal couple. Sadly it's David's last day with us and he flies back to Dublin tomorrow. We will miss him.

    We have now walked over 200km in 10days and think all our muscles feeling it    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    Farewell David
    Morning view from windowPretty streetNougat galoreMon mari very relaxed

    Day 11. Conked out in Conques

    September 16, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Was so good to wake up this morning and not have to vaseline our feet , jam our double socked feet into our shoes and cram our gear into the suitcase!
    The bells of the Abbey rang loudly at 7 am. Thankfully they did not ring through the night as we are very close.
    Gehlaine our hostess running the gite is so helpful and put on a wonderful breakfast of the usual fresh breads jams cheese homemade yoghurt and fruits.
    David came to say goodbye so shared our last laughs and banter .
    Washing gladly underway and a nice relaxing time with lunch at a pizza place.
    The shops are cute but very expensive and I bought the most expensive fruit jubes ever. The smell of praline being made is tantalizing.
    Tonight after dinner we are going to a mass and choir singing at the Abbey. It might help us get up and out of the steep valley.
    Chat GPT take on Conques below
    Conques: a tiny medieval gem with a cheeky past. 🏰✨
    In the 9th century, monks “borrowed” Saint Foy’s relics — and suddenly pilgrims flocked here on the Camino. Today, its cobbled lanes, chestnut-roofed houses, and the dazzling Abbey of Sainte-Foy still feel like pure magic. 🌿⛪
    Our NZ ACC would have forty fits at the steepness and slippery cobbled stones but somehow it all works and adds to the charm. No high heels here.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    3

    Day 12 Conques to Livinhac

    September 17, 2025 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was an amazingly tough day but all is forgotten as we sor around the table outside with a group of French people and singing French songs we've never heard of.
    The walk was long long long and the ascent out of Conques seem to go on for ever like the descent into Conques went on for ever. It was one of our hottest days and a lot of the walk was high up in rolling countryside similiar to walking in countryside of places like Taranaki or Waikato.
    The end of the walk was tough especially when we bypassed an industrial type city and it was hot! We walked from 9am until 5pm .
    We arrived at our gite and thought what a strange place but honesty we have been totally charmed by our Italian host Michelino and the quirky rooms.
    Dinner was served outside under grapevine s. The table full of French and meal pasta( of course) Michelino entertained us with piano accordian and the gorgeous guitar playing. Brian gave a rendition of Pokarekareana which went down well.
    A magical night but I am tired and time for bed. We are now back in the Lot Valley    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
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    Day 13 Livinhac le Haut to Figeac

    September 18, 2025 in France ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After a very festive night singing under the grapevine and the guitar playing of a very handsome young Frenchman plus a song or two by my handsome husband we went to bed.
    Had a terrible sleep on a bed with thick waterproofing rubber. The breakfast was very underwhelming with toasted dry bread but nice homemade jam plus the coffee was good. We farewelled Michelino and off we set on a misty cool morning. Soon the mist lifted and it was to be another pretty hot day. I would call today's walk an amble through rural areas and going through the back of farm sheds and cow sheds so many smells. I actually love the sweet smell of hay and silage. Unfortunately we had not banked on not many villages along the way but did stop for coffee and almond cake outside another romanesque church.
    That was the last food we found but luckily we had nuts and sweets in our bags.
    In the last couple of hours of the walk when the heat was intense Brian and I had run dry of water but luckily 4 chirpy French walkers came along and filled our bottles. All in the pilgrim spirit.
    The countryside was green and lush and lots of big trees especially chestnuts so nice to have a midday rest under them.
    We finally arrived in Figeac which looks to be a beautiful old city and very much an iconic pilgrim city. It was founded in 751 by Pepin the Short ( not a great name) who had just won a fierce battle and saw a flock of doves arise so decided to build here. It was taken over by Nazis in WW2 and many residents were sent off to concentration camps.
    Today there is another strike on and there seems quite a bit of noise out on the street. The hotel here is gorgeous with an outdoor garden and big clean rooms. Bliss!
    I couldn't help but think of the song mad dogs and English men out in the midday sun as we walked along today but we got here . 25 km today.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    Exploring Fijeac with Susan another walker from Tasmania
    View over roofs of FijeacThe local bakery where we bought our quicheDrinks on arrivalA wee rose in the town square last nightMore town viewsOutside our beautiful hotel. One of the best yetStreet sceneOn the walkFarm houseIf you look hard you can see Brian checking the washing!

    Day 14 Figeac to Oussac (near Cajarc)

    September 19, 2025 in France ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Today took a slightly different spin on our normal day of walking.
    Sitting under the grapevine of a wonderful restaurant in Figeac last night a decision was made to spend more time in the morning exploring the beautiful town of Figeac steeped in so much history and cut out some of our walk by taking a taxi.
    We had one of our best meals yet ( lamb chops) and a wonderful local red wine.
    With that decision made we were very relaxed as walking in 30 degree heat is not pleasant.
    So after a leisurely breakfast we explored the town with buildings from the 13th century.
    A famous person from here was Jean Francis Champollion who is famous for translating hieroglyphics from the Rosetta stone. He sounded very clever and their is a whole museum in his honour. It was a wonderful morning with the obligatory coffees in the square .
    The taxi arrived and off we drove to avoid a good part of the walk. As it was hot we were very happy.
    We did walk the last few kilometers in scrubby countryside with very few trees and lots of gorse and blackberry but found a spot under a tree to have our picnic lunch..delicious courgette quiche. This area is the home of fois gras and truffles.
    Finally we came across our farm house which is literally in the middle of nowhere. What I would call a very wild garden with peacocks and doves floating around. The lady speaks very little English but very hospitable and dinner tonight is at the farm kitchen table.
    Its very relaxing as I sit under a tree and who knows what's going on in the world.
    Enjoy your weekend and love all the comments that come through
    One of the team of eight is letting the rest down by developing a blister! So Sarahs left foot is the weak link but am sure all will come right.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    Lovely dog at farm stay last night
    Quaint French farm houseCajarcPretty street in CajarcOh for a seat by the riverLot riverThe most delicious tomatoes last nightScallop shells symbol of the Camino at a resting placeAll the lollies have gone!That beet tastes so goodSo pretty

    Day 15 Oussac to Mars de Games

    September 20, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We had a very nice meal lastnight with the farm grown tomatoes being the hero of the meal as so so sweet and I can never grow them like that. We ate at the kitchen table with a young French boy and his older companion. Our wine was served from a cask but actually tasted ok. We notice that there is quite alot of cask wine. In fact this morning as we had a coffee in the town of Cajarc a chap came along on his bike delivering about a dozen casks of wine to the bar.
    Cajarc is another pretty medieval town on the banks of the Lot river and in fact we would have loved to have sat out in the sun watching the river life go by. The river is wide and reminded me a bit of the Whanganui river.
    Reluctantly we left there armed with breads etc for lunch.
    It was quite a steep climb out of Cajarc and finally we found a place to picnic and rest our weary feet.
    The walk generally was ok and lots of tree cover and so quiet. Does anyone live in France!
    It's nice walking along with all the smells wild mint thyme and sage plus the sweet smell of star jasmine. Lots of oak trees and cherry trees so in a month or so the Autumn colour will be stunning.
    As per usual the last 4 km were tiresome but it's just the one foot in front of the other mantra and the drink awaiting at the end of the day. It was hot again today but some cloud cover at times.
    We are in another farm stay and it is very comfortable and quiet.
    Tomorrow we will go to the morning truffle market and see what the markets offer us.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    1Baskets in Limogne
    Beautiful tomatoesLimogne marketCheeses galore at the marketSnake on the path!Beautiful old gatesLee with his sausageLunch time in some deserted villagePoured begoniasChurch by our hotel1Duck confit

    Day 16 Mars de Games to Lalhenque

    September 21, 2025 in France ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    A quick blog as about to go for dinner and feeling pretty hungry after walking what was to be 23km but ended up being 27 km. We have found often what they say in the guide book is less than we actually walk which can be frustrating!
    Had a great dinner last night of 4 courses including a duck sausage with ratatouille and baby potatoes and even an apple/ berry crumble. We all sat at gorgeous old farm kitchen table with 2 sisters from Quebec who spoke mainly French and a couple from Munich.
    This morning we woke to thunder rolling in and a significant drop in temperature with rain falling.
    So decked out in wet weather gear off we set. It was an easy walk but a long wet one and pretty muddy tracks.
    We stopped at a village along the way and bought supplies for lunch from the local market including fresh figs and Lee's 3 varieties of a type of sausage/ salami.
    The rain stayed on and off most of the day and by the time we got to our destination we were like drowned rats. The lovely host of our hotel came and collected us 5 km from the hotel which was a godsend.
    Am back from our meal now which was totally delicious with duck confit and a creme brulee for pud. We will sleep well tonight.
    We are right beside a church and our host told us it's the only thing open most of the week! Again in a very quiet wee village.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    Boys very fond of the malbec
    Picking the berries on the wayBridge unto Cahors over the Lot river2Communal garden in the parkOur quaint hotelWe have arrived

    Day 17 Lalhenque to Cahors

    September 22, 2025 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Woke up to the church bells at 7am and very pleased they didn't ring them throttle night as we were in a hotel right beside the beautiful old church.
    We were all in good spirits and farewelled our wonderful host and set off knowing we were only walking 17 km.
    The walk was through rolling paddock to start with but then turned into scrubby countryside with small oaks and lots of limestone rocks.
    We realised that this is an area of truffle growing and the base of the trees are injected with the truffle spores and then wait for winter to harvest. The oaks are small.
    Not one cafe was open as it's Monday so luckily we had food on board and picniced under a tree eating Lee's 3 varieties of saussion toms and cheese .
    After awhile the view of Cohors appeared with the Lot river again. Down we descended steeply and ended up in the big square enjoying well deserved drinks.
    We have a rest day tomorrow which we will really enjoy. Our hotel is very much faded grandeur but has a bath.
    Cohors is 115 km north of Toulouse and population of 19k.
    It's the first place we've stayed in that is not in the historic part so getting a taste of the real France!    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    Wonder what the nursing was like in that error
    2Valentre bridge1A NZ flavour in Cahors1Love the beautiful doors. So oldStunted grapevine everwhere. Not sure why?1In front of statue of Leon Gambetta who is tge local hero of Cahors. Fought in Franco Prussian wars5My new friend..how I look at the end of a days walking!

    Day 18 Rest day in Cahors

    September 23, 2025 in France ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    What a nice thought when we woke up this morning to think we had the whole day to ourselves and not much walking required.
    We decided to go on the very touristy petit bus that took people all around the old historic party of the city. It was great just to be driven and entertained by the driver who mainly spoke French but sometimes spoke a bit of English. Like always we are amazed at how old the place is and the beautiful old bridges stand out and the river. Plus I love all the hanging baskets.
    It seems Cahors was quite affected by the 100 year war as I suppose was most of France . It took 70 years for the Valentre bridge to be built and 30 years to build the towers. I'm glad NZT not coping with 100 year wars!
    The town has some delightful areas but also an air of neglect about it and again so quiet. There were a few beautiful shops so a tiny bit of shopping was done but as we only allowed 13kg not much can be bought.
    Tonight's meal is at the hotel and the Spears are coming for an aperitif ( bottle of rose bought for 6 euro which was the most expensive on the shelf!)
    It's cold here today as in 9 degrees so hoping it warms up a tad.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    1
    Typical of our walk todaySadly sunflowersLots of mud today1Enjoying a coffee with a beautiful almond plum cake!View from our gite. Be lovely on a nice dayHans and the boysKitchen table where we will eat tonigh61Rose with a very plain pizza1Lovely country house

    Day 19 Cahors to Lascabanes

    September 24, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today Brian and I decided to cheat a bit as didn't have a great night's sleep and it was cold and drizzly so we taxied the first 10 km out of Cahors and started our walk from there. It was very nice knowing we only had 11km to walk.
    The walk was pretty ,along mainly unsaved tracks . We hardly saw anyone.
    At one stage we heard dogs barking and then came across a man with a shotgun ( not always who you want to meet on a pretty isolated track!) He spoke a little English and told us they were shooting wild boar. It seems to be a yearly round up and our host of our gite told us quite a few men get killed on the shoot. Hopefully not pilgrims.
    The countryside is changing slightly with bigger trees and rolling fertile hills. We saw our first field of sunflowers looking sadly north with drooping dead faces .
    As we got to Lascerbane not long after midday we strolled into the tiny almost deserted village and was met enthusiastically by the "ambassador * of the pilgrims. He ushered us into a funny wee café where we had a very underwhelming pizza but with a glass of rose.
    It was nice to get out of the cold. We met there a pilgrim who has walked from the Slovakia border and was going to Finnesterre , a total of 3 thousand kilometers!
    We then met up with Jane and Lee walking along and they had walked the full distance so together we all arrived at the gite.
    This place has real character and our host is Hans a Dutch guy who left his wife in Paris 15 years ago and runs this sort of gite. He has worked in the wine trade so hoping for a nice wine tonight.
    He has the fire going and is busy cooking us our meal. There is also a cute wee dachound who is very old and lame.
    Hans loves a chat so will be a cosy night. He said this season is not very busy with pilgrims as it's mainly the French who walk the route but he feels maybe their depressed economy, or the Ukraine and Palestine wars is the cause.
    Looking forward to our cosy night by the fire.
    Warmer weather forecasted.
    Have ditched my first pair of hokas as half way tomorrow and the tread was nearly gone    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    1Big cheese for breakfast on very dense rye bread
    1The sign on path telling us we have reached half wayIdyllic countrysideAnother saint1Beautiful friendly horsesWoodland walkingFrancis Lee and Brian lunching. Francis had a tinned mackerel for lunchSmiles for the half way.Rolling hilksof lavenderLunch time outside the churchWalking away from the pretty village we had coffee at1

    Day 20 Lascerbane to Lauzerte

    September 25, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The most significant thing about today is that we have passed the half way mark!
    We felt a nice sense of accomplishment that we have got this far more or less of sound mind and body!
    We had a fun night lastnight with Hans who has an interesting take on life. Loves the French but thinks they quite mad at times. His meal that he cooked while we all sat near the fire was delicious and all home made. Vege tarts ,veg pasta ,terrines on rye bread and plum and apricot tarts. For the golfers out there he told us his wife in Paris paid 50 thousand euro to join a golf club! The wine flowed and we all went to bed very content. Tres bon!
    This morning the rain had stopped but still cold so off we set for a supposed 24 km walk
    The walk was one of the more interesting ones we've had mainly due to varied scenery small villages and some interesting pilgrims to walk with. Francis our French friend who we hadn't seen since Aubrac turned up and he walked with us all day. Another 2 Dutch nurses also walked with us so lots of chat which helps the km pass quickly in fact one of the Dutch ladies Marianne and I were so busy chatting we nearly missed a turn off but luckily hadn't walked long before we realised we were on the wrong track.
    The scenery is quite Tuscany like and there were rolling fields off lavender but not flowering. Lots of up hill and down dale
    We are now at a wonderful gite, totally modern and we walked into a big room with a fire going.
    Orla who is from Ireland is our host with her French husband and they were so welcoming.
    This town is meant to be particularly beautiful and artists love to come and paint here. We have yet to explore but it won't be tonight.    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler
    11

    Day 21. Lauzerte to Moissac

    September 26, 2025 in France ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Today was a more relaxing day as instead of walking 27 km we decided to uber.
    What a nice ride in our BYD with a lovely driver who had lived in Taihiti.
    We had first walked around Lauzerte as is deemed one of the most beautiful towns in France. It surely is but absolutely nothing was open.
    It was cold but we had a nice look around an empty town.
    After a very pleasant uber drive we arrived in Moisssic another beautiful town but again not much opened. We did manage to find a lunch place by the church and had galettes filled with veggies. Delicious.
    The men both enjoyed the local barber and looking very swish haircuts and shaves.
    It's a town full of charm and dominated by the beautiful church. We even went to 6pm vesters where the nuns sang beautifully.
    Lovely dinner with armagnac to finish(French brandy)    Read more

  • Sarah NaylorCamino Santiago via PodiensisTraveler

    Day 22. Moissac to Auvillar

    September 27, 2025 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today was a 21km today and mainly all flat which made for a nice change .
    We had one of our best breakfasts yet with muesli and fruit. Certainly not the normal over here. The fruit was kiwi fruit but not as nice as ours.
    We met a slightly odd couple lastnight at our hotel who are from Montana and have their big german shepherd dog with them who was very welcome in the dining room. We all felt sorry for the 12 year old dog who went off limping this morning and they were walking 35km.
    We could not start the walk until after the rugby had finished so by Radio ZB and stuff we managed to hear what was going on. Sounded tense.
    The walk was very pretty all mainly along a canal flanked by beautiful old plane trees that were enormous.
    Once again France seem to have shut down for the day and not a cafe or a toilet to be had.
    There actually was 1 toilet but was probably one of the most disgusting ones I've used.
    Luckily we had some nuts to sustain us and eventually about 230pm we entered this pretty town sitting atop a hill. There was an art gallery open combined with a bar so with our man walking from Slovakia and our 2 Dutch friends we had a drink in the town square. No food though to be had. There 2 Dutch ladies were trying to get an Uber driver to take them the last 10 km but as there were none the man who had served us drinks shut the shop and drove them!
    There was a very swanky wedding going on and we peeked in the church. It was a stunning scene as was the sportscar outside.
    Our gite is charming with a big lawn and pool. It was a beautiful sunny day but cold in the morning.
    Auvillar is on a rocky outcrop above the Garonne River which use to be a very busy transport hub . We did see a lock being used on the canal which was fun to see.
    All walking well and the boys had a slight spring in their step today knowing the ABs had won!    Read more

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