Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña

Perhaps there's something about the cool mountain air, and the collective energy of close to 200 pilgrims sharing a 12th Century monastery for the night, but I awoke refreshed at 5am this morning and knew that there would be no more sleep. Then again, perhaps it might have also been the regular sounds of people shifting in their sleep, and of bodily gases being expelled. Either way, I was ready to get moving.

By 6am I was packed and itching to hit the road. Unfortunately, at this time of year sunrise in this part of the world is after 8am, meaning there would be no daylight to guide my way before 7.30am. As I stood out the front of the Roncesvalles monastery I made out a couple of South Koreans with head lamps, clearly better prepared than me to make an early morning start. A quick introduction was all that was necessary to justify joining them for the first hour of the day, grateful for the light as well as the company.

Within a half hour we had reached the town of Burguete, where a small cafe provided access to a cappuccino and ham and egg baguette for €3.50. We said our farewell as the morning light welcomed me back to the road. Today's walk was a pleasure in comparison to yesterdays Pyrenees crossing, mostly downhill and again offering amazing scenery.

Whilst yesterday appeared to be a day for walkers to set their own pace over the mountains, with only occasional time made to talk with each other, it felt today that we were openly seeking company, and the opportunity to form small groups.

My companions today were: Ronan (Brazil), Jaemin (South Korea), Els (Netherlands), Inga (Germany), and Martin & Jenny (Germany).

The Camino waymarkers are a constant comfort to assure us that we're staying on the right path, and the absence of rain with a cooler day pushed a few of us further past our planned destination of Zubiri, deciding instead to spend the night at the Larrasoaña municipal albergue. At €8 for the night the price is reasonable for the basic facilities, though I wonder what added value there would have been paying €12 at the San Nicolas albergue a couple of hundred metres away.

The restaurant provided an excellent hamburger, generous glass of Navarre region red wine, and cappuccino - all for only €9.50. It felt a little unusual having dinner at 4pm, but after another 27km day, I don't see myself staying up late.

I will reach Pamplona tomorrow before midday, and as this will only involve a 15km walk, this could provide an opportunity to have a good look around, and let the body rest a little.

Steps: 43,833
Distance: 27.1km
Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 52.7kmRead more