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Camino Frances

October 2019
My Camino de Santiago journey from St-Jean Pied-de-Port along the Camino Frances route (Way of St James) Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Frances

    Camino - Here I Come!

    October 2, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Well the day has finally come. After years of aspiring to walk the Camino de Santiago Way of St James, I fly out of Perth bound for St-Jean Pied-de-Port France (via Doha, Paris and Bayonne).

    Whilst the Camino is traditionally a pilgrimage, people these days do it for any number of reasons. It can relate to dealing with a significant loss, a new chapter to life, a personal challenge to be achieved, or just to see the Spanish countryside. For this reason I refer to myself and others as 'pilgrims' without any religious overtones.

    Despite the best of planning, I've left without my Debit Card, but fortunately have my Credit Card, which should allow me to access my funds while away.

    Fingers crossed that this little glitch will be a rare occurrence over the next 3 weeks.

    Thanks to my beautiful Michelle for her support tonight to get me to the airport with time to spare, and keeping my nerves calm.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 2

    Perth to Bayonne

    October 4, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After a long 30 hours of flights (Perth-Doha-Paris-Biarritz), I've finally made it to the stage of my journey where I can slow down and adjust to my new surroundings.

    I spent last night at the Hôtel Côte Basque in Bayonne, a nice comfortable little hotel directly across the road from the Gare de Bayonne, where I'll take the train later today to St-Jean Pied-de-Port, where my Camino will start.

    From my table by the window, I have a clear view of the Rue Maubec, and have already seen a number of people carrying backpacks and walking poles in the direction of Gare de Bayonne, who I presume are also making their way to St-Jean. It has me thinking of the variety of personalities I am likely to meet over the next few weeks.

    The hotel breakfast was just what I needed, and I feel rejuvenated and looking forward to a few hours of enjoying the sights of Bayonne. The coffee is quite strong, so taking my chances with a second cup.

    The morning talkback radio is playing in the background, and even though I don't understand a word of it, I find it calming, helping me to appreciate where I am and of the journey ahead of me.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 2

    Arrival into St-Jean

    October 4, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Having discovered that the weather was one of my biggest barriers to exploring Bayonne this morning, I decided to head back to my hotel and ensure that everything was in readiness for the train ride to St-Jean.

    Despite the rain, I found myself overcome with the reality of where I was, and felt a surge of emotion at the thought that at 50 years of age I'd only just made it to Europe. It was an incredible feeling, and motivated me to embrace everything that this trip has to offer.

    The one-hour train ride to St-Jean was an absolute pleasure, taking in the sights of the French countryside. Centuries-old buildings, of the kind I've ever only seen in movies, just added to the magic.

    First thing first, a visit to the Pilgrims Office to get my official Pilgrim Passport, and its first stamp.

    St-Jean is even more beautiful than I could have imagined. Though I've seen countless pictures of it before, walking along the Citadelle revealed no shortage of postcard views, and a preview of the Pyrenees - which will be my physical and mental challenge as I take the 27km walk to Roncesvalles tomorrow.

    Pascal, the manager of tonight's albergue (Gîte Bidean) is quite a lively and eccentric character, and is at ease with welcoming his guests.

    I started to meet some fellow pilgrims this afternoon, and will write more about them if they become part of my daily walks.

    Looking forward to my first pilgrim dinner tonight, and an early night to bed.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 3

    St-Jean to Roncesvalles - The Pyrenees

    October 5, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Today marked the official start of my Camino walk, with the 25.6km journey from St-Jean Pied-de-Port, taking the Napoleon Route across the Pyrenees.

    I'd been mentally and physically preparing myself for this day for a long time, but nothing had prepared me for exactly what this would throw at me. The ascent up the mountains was every bit as challenging as I'd expected, but I found myself at times wondering whether I'd be able to make it through without causing injury to myself.

    My fellow pilgrims had no idea about the strength that they gave me as we exchanged short introductions, heard each others stories, or acknowledged language barriers. The common goal and language that we shared was the road travelled, and regular wishes of 'Buen Camino' reassured us that we were in the company of friends.

    To say that the scenery was astounding (or any other such adjective) couldn't come close to the reality of today's experience. Though good weather had been forecast for today, we walked the entire morning through a cool mist that left a gentle film of condensation over ourselves, which provided a pleasant contrast to the sweat produced by the body as a protest to the physical demands to push forward.

    Shortly after midday I found myself nearing the pinnacle of the Pyrenees, which provided the most amazing vistas of valleys, farms and low-level cloud that I now stood above. The regular sounds of bells worn by cows and horses was calming, and added to the magnificence around me.

    The gentle descent into Roncesvalles was a welcome relief as I struck up a conversation with a fellow Aussie who had decided to give himself 6 months to explore Europe after many years of hard work. It made me think of how we often delay living our own lives, waiting instead for an arbitrary date that society tells us that it is suitable to stop working.

    I now look forward to a fun night meeting more fellow pilgrims over dinner before a restful night at the modernised 12th Century Roncesvalles Monastery which acts as a 183 bed albergue for today's pilgrims.

    Edit: A pilgrims dinner enjoyed with Marcos (Brazil/USA), Pauline (Denmark), and Els (Holland).

    Thought for the day: We each walk our own path and pace. Though this may not bring us to the same place, or at the same time, for a time we meet, providing an opportunity for humanity to shine.

    Steps: 38,900
    Distance: 25.6km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 25.6km    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    1
    Day 4

    Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña

    October 6, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Perhaps there's something about the cool mountain air, and the collective energy of close to 200 pilgrims sharing a 12th Century monastery for the night, but I awoke refreshed at 5am this morning and knew that there would be no more sleep. Then again, perhaps it might have also been the regular sounds of people shifting in their sleep, and of bodily gases being expelled. Either way, I was ready to get moving.

    By 6am I was packed and itching to hit the road. Unfortunately, at this time of year sunrise in this part of the world is after 8am, meaning there would be no daylight to guide my way before 7.30am. As I stood out the front of the Roncesvalles monastery I made out a couple of South Koreans with head lamps, clearly better prepared than me to make an early morning start. A quick introduction was all that was necessary to justify joining them for the first hour of the day, grateful for the light as well as the company.

    Within a half hour we had reached the town of Burguete, where a small cafe provided access to a cappuccino and ham and egg baguette for €3.50. We said our farewell as the morning light welcomed me back to the road. Today's walk was a pleasure in comparison to yesterdays Pyrenees crossing, mostly downhill and again offering amazing scenery.

    Whilst yesterday appeared to be a day for walkers to set their own pace over the mountains, with only occasional time made to talk with each other, it felt today that we were openly seeking company, and the opportunity to form small groups.

    My companions today were: Ronan (Brazil), Jaemin (South Korea), Els (Netherlands), Inga (Germany), and Martin & Jenny (Germany).

    The Camino waymarkers are a constant comfort to assure us that we're staying on the right path, and the absence of rain with a cooler day pushed a few of us further past our planned destination of Zubiri, deciding instead to spend the night at the Larrasoaña municipal albergue. At €8 for the night the price is reasonable for the basic facilities, though I wonder what added value there would have been paying €12 at the San Nicolas albergue a couple of hundred metres away.

    The restaurant provided an excellent hamburger, generous glass of Navarre region red wine, and cappuccino - all for only €9.50. It felt a little unusual having dinner at 4pm, but after another 27km day, I don't see myself staying up late.

    I will reach Pamplona tomorrow before midday, and as this will only involve a 15km walk, this could provide an opportunity to have a good look around, and let the body rest a little.

    Steps: 43,833
    Distance: 27.1km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 52.7km    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 5

    Larrasoaña to Cizur Menor

    October 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Aided by an uncomfortable bed at the Larrasoaña municipal albergue, multiple snoring room mates, stuffy warm air and squeaking beds, I again woke early and unable to get back to sleep - only this morning I'd managed to be wide awake by 4am. Half an hour later I realised that any efforts to get back to sleep were futile, so it was better to get up and quietly exit the room to do some reading and send messages to home.

    By 7.15am my walking partners from the previous day, Inga and Els, were packed and equipped with head lamps to guide the way before sunrise. We hit the trail, which though interesting wasn't nearly as magical as the scenery from the last two days.

    Breakfast was postponed until we reached the town of Villava, 4km short of Pamplona. The egg, potato, ham and cheese tortilla offering was delicious, and with two cappuccinos only came to €4.70. By 11.00am we entered the Pamplona city gates, rejoined by Martin and Jenny, and together explored some of the sights of this historic city. This included a rest on the steps of the St Mary's Cathedral, a fruit smoothie in the Plaza Consistorial, walk by the Pamplona Bullfighting Plaza, a smile at the interesting bullfighting monument, and walk across the historic citadel.

    We decided to push on another 5km to the town of Cizur Menor, and checked into the Albergue de Maribel Roncal. The grounds and buildings are absolutely charming, with the bedrooms clean and inviting at the end of the day. The typical end-of-day ritual of unpacking, showering and laundry was efficiently executed, before a walk to a local plaza for a well-earned drink.

    A pilgrims menu at a local hotel was sufficient, though unspectacular, then back to the albergue courtyard for a chat before each person peeled themselves off to bed.

    Hopefully a solid night's sleep, though it's already 10pm, so fingers crossed.

    Steps: 36,860
    Distance: 21km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 73.7km    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    211
    Day 6

    Cizur Menor to Mañeru

    October 8, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Deciding to wait for the sun to rise before setting out this morning proved to be a good decision. Not only did it provide clear waymarkers (which I wouldn't have seen otherwise), but walking through open fields under a clear blue sky energised me. This helped to overcome the pain that persisted in my left knee.

    The ascent leading up to the Alto de Perdón was a minor challenge, mostly due to the loose gravel and uneven ground conditions, but the views provided looking back on Cizur Menor and surrounding areas were definitely worth it. The statues at the pinnacle depicting medieval pilgrims was something that I had wanted to see for years. The inscription at the statue reads "Where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars".

    Descending towards Uterga seemed a bit of a long slog, with my knee repeatedly protesting to the added effort required to provide stability. The Gods of Ibuprofen, Voltaren and a knee brace were smiling on me, and a cappuccino was my reward at the Uterga cafe.

    Arriving in the town of Puente la Reina meant making a decision about whether to stay here for the night, or push on to the town of Mañeru. After an early but hearty dinner, and walk along the beautiful 6-arched Romanesque bridge, it was decided to walk the extra hour onto Mañeru.

    Tonight's albergue is an old 17th Century building, packed full of charm and delightful hosts. A Belgian pilgrim kindly offered to teach me a song about the Camino (not sure which language he was using), so I politely excused myself.

    It has been said the the Camino presents pilgrims with three personal challenging stages; the physical, the mental, and the spiritual. Given that I only have 3 weeks to walk, I'm hoping that the physical stage passes relatively soon, and the mental processing can happen without being distracted by how various parts of my body are feeling.

    Looking forward to visiting the Irache monastery tomorrow. I'd like to say that this is for religious or cultural purposes, but to be honest it has something to do with the fountain that provides red wine.

    Steps: 37,700
    Distance: 23.9km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 97.6km    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 7

    Mañeru to Villamayor de Monjardín

    October 9, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A pre-dawn departure from Mañeru came with a light breeze that tempered the relatively warm morning, which resulted from a broad blanket of cloud cover. Sampling grapes from a vineyard left the mouth watering, with the lights of Cirauqui seen in the distance.

    The next couple of hours provided a number of interesting sights, such as a partially restored Roman bridge, a rustic rest area for weary pilgrims in the middle of nowhere, and hills covered in vineyards.

    A welcome breakfast was enjoyed in a little cafe in Lorca. Fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee and a bocadillo hit the spot, knowing that there was still close to 20km still to be walked for the day.

    I had thought that doing the Camino would provide the opportunity to practice my Spanish. However, my walking partners have mostly been delightful Germans, taking me back to my German classes in high school. It occurs to me that despite their relatively good grasp of the English language, in order for them to include me in conversation, it takes a concerted effort to translate their thoughts in German to English.

    The Irache monastery 'Fuente de Vino' is onto a good idea, with a fountain that pilgrims can use to avail themselves of a free sample of red wine. Great idea, though not likely to find one in Australia.

    The last stretch of the day through Azqueta, towards Villamayor de Monjardín was a treat for the senses, with mountains in the distance, vineyards a plenty, olive groves, and farm houses dotted throughout. While on the final approach to Villamayor de Monjardín, under a warm sunny sky, I felt a cool breeze wash across me, which I gratefully soaked up after 25km of walking.

    While writing this entry, I can smell the dinner that the hosts of our albergue are preparing. If it tastes anywhere near as good as it smells, I'm in for a treat.

    Steps: 39,550
    Distance: 26.1km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 123.7km    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    1
    Day 8

    Villamayor de Monjardín to Viana

    October 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    Motivated by the desire for coffee and breakfast, another pre-dawn departure beckoned. After leaving the Villamayor albergue, the first coffee was a 12km walk, so better to get moving early.

    The first morning walk took me through mostly open agricultural fields, and a beautiful Spanish dawn sky, almost devoid of clouds. This was one of those times that I was truly thankful for the opportunity to let my thoughts roam free, leaving behind the typical ramblings demanded by everyday life.

    Reaching the village of Los Arcos shortly before 10am, I was initially concerned that there would be little on offer given the virtual absence of people. However, after walking the streets for few minutes I came across a bakery displaying the most amazing biscuits, cakes and pizzas. Now armed with a pizza, I was directed down the street towards a piazza and a quaint little cafe. With the pizza and two café con leche put away, it was time to hit the track again for Sansol and Torres del Río.

    Passing a number of vineyards again demanded that I taste-test the local grapes, and I'm happy to report that they didn't disappoint.

    Today didn't offer too many towns to stop at, so it was a matter of keeping my mind on the 30km target to get to Viana. Finding a patch of cleared ground in the early afternoon meant a self-mandated break to soak up the sun and do some writing. A lone dog made his thoughts known about my presence by howling at me from a distance of around 30 metres. A vain attempt to lure him to me for a pat was unsuccessful. I guess that he couldn't understand my Australian accent.

    Arriving in Viana shortly after 3pm was a relief, and after checking in to my albergue, and washing off the day's dirt, an early dinner with fellow pilgrims at a local restaurant was just what I needed. On another trip to this part of the world, I would love to explore more little towns like this one. It has a charming vibe, and people who make visitors feel very welcome.

    Tomorrow will involve arriving at Logroño, a relatively large regional centre. I'm finding that I prefer to move through these larger centres rather quickly, and would rather stay at albergues in smaller villages. The hospitality of the hosts at these smaller places is always a treat.

    Steps: 45,000
    Distance: 30.1km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 153.8km    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Frances
    Day 9

    Viana to Ventosa

    October 11, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    To put it simply, at the end of today I am tired and have sore feet.

    I finally had a full night's sleep last night, getting a solid 9 hours. Unfortunately, in the morning I learned that I had tossed and turned for much of the night, disturbing the sleep of the pilgrim in the bunk below me.

    The first leg of today's walk was 9.5km from Viana to Logroño. Passing through a major city like this provided the opportunity for a good breakfast with some fellow pilgrims. A walk into Santa Maria Cathedral was quite breathtaking.

    Having left Logroño, I then faced a 12km walk to Navarrete. This walk gave me time to ponder some observations that I'd made in recent days. For example, for some people this is mostly a solitary experience, either due to introversion or simply by choice. Efforts to greet them can be largely unsuccessful, so I have to acknowledge that not everyone on the Camino is the talking type.

    Also, the Camino is getting quite physical, which requires a mental focus in order to succeed. Many of the pilgrims who did the same 30km yesterday are feeling the effects today. For many, this means a shorter day that finishes in Logroño. For those pushing through to Navarette or Ventosa, the pace is noticeably slower (yours truly included). The message I hear is to challenge yourself, but to also listen to your body, and learn your limits.

    The countryside continues to be interesting, especially as I enter the la Rioja region, famous for its high quality wine. I like vineyards, but how many photos of vineyards are worth sharing?

    A reminder that I had to tell myself today is the importance of filling my water bottle when I come across a fountain. I bypassed one today, which I regretted when running out of water almost 3km short of Navarette. This meant a stop at a deli, enjoying freshly squeezed orange juice and taking a bocadillo for dinner.

    Arriving into Ventosa, I enjoyed the bocadillo while getting some laundry done, met a couple of new pilgrims, and decided on an early night.

    Steps: 43,775
    Distance: 28.8km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 182.6    Read more

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