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Three coasts of Europe
  • Thistledome
Apr – May 2024

Three coasts of Europe

Portugal, Greece and Turkey Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 28, 2024
    ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    The Pantheon from our Amalfa Terrace
    View over Lisbon, top left corner near Pantheon is where we are staying.Alleys in Alfama, sea in the background, reminded us of Dubrovnik1Artwork and tiles at Oriente Metro stationThe bridge Pontè Vasco da GamaVasco de Gama tower.1View from 18th floor at our hotel room

    Lisbon

    April 28, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Hello Portugal! After a rest at an airport hotel (30 hours flying and transit from Rio to Lisbon via Heathrow with delays in both steps) we visited Parque das Nacoes, built for the world expo in 1998, near the main metro station Oriente with the tiled walls, It has the longest bridge in Europe (another fine subset, actually only the 10th longest in the world) we could also see it from our 18th floor hotel room.
    This afternoon we made our way, also with a major delay, to our accommodation, at a Alfama Terrace in the old town, an area very similar to Dubrovonik, and had a wander around the cobbled streets. The view from our terrace is of the Lisbon Pantheon, and nearer to sunset time we went up to Miradouro de Santa Luzia, a viewpoint that looks over Lisbon city, down to the cruise ship dock.    Read more

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    Geoff at Rossio square
    Kate at Rossio square (Figueira)Castelo Sao Jorge in top leftKate at entrance gate to Sao Jorge CastleGeoff on way into CastleOne of the castle's internal gateways with a pretty fountainWalls inside the castleLula frita, squid sandwich with lime mayoSalada de polvo, octopus salad 👌 and the salty bitesPatisserie drooling at Timeout

    Lisbon, exploring Alfama

    April 29, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We are staying in the old town area, called Alfama, which was originally founded by the Moors in the 8th century, the Tagus River runs below.
    We took the metro a little further up the river to find a particular place for lunch, it is a small quiosque (kiosk) that has been serving food since 1872, and is world famous in Lisbon. The two most popular dishes are Lula frita (squid sandwich with lime mayonnaise) and Salada de Polvo (octopus salad) so that's what we had! Oh yeah! Yum! They were so tender and tasty. We also had a couple of Salagados (salty bites): pasteis de massa tenra (Portuguese hand pies, meat) and bolimbo de bacalhau (salted Cod croquette) also both delicious. After that we had a look around a place called Timeout, which is a huge and busy upmarket food court, selling every type of food imaginable (and also heaps of desserts) unfortunately we were full from our lunch dishes.
    We then took the metro to Rossio, and admired the Plaza de Figueria, and Rossio square (King Pedro IV Square) and its famous wave tile patterns before heading up the hill to Castelo de Sao Jorge, a castle built in 1147 but with parts dating from 300bc with amazing views over Lisbon and the Tagus river. From there we walked through the lovely winding cobbled streets, some with tram tracks, admiring the views, until we reached our apartment on the hill.    Read more

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    Monument to the Discoveries
    St. Jeronimos MonasteryBelem towerJeronimos Monastery (and the queue)2Inside St. Maria de Belem ChurchExplorer Vasco de Gama's tombTypical Lisbon view2Food !!View from near our accommodationThe famous no.28 tram

    Lisbon, Belem

    April 30, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today we headed up the coast to Belem, first stop was at Pastis de Belem for some famous pastels de nata (custard tart) and duck empanada, and a few other delicious bites, all were were fantastic and the pastry was perfect. The pastel de nata were creamy, vanilla, not too sweet, warm and had very crispy laminated pastry.
    We then headed to the seafront to view the Monument of the Discoveries and Belam Tower. The monument is where they farewelled the explorers, and commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator, who discovered the West African Coast. It is a very powerful and impressive monument. The Belem Tower was a 16th century fortification, a ceremonial gateway to the city of Lisbon, and a guard post.
    The monastery of Jeronimos also a very impressive building that was funded by taxing the spice trade 5%. The entry line was soooo long, at least 2 hours, maybe 3. So we went in to the adjacent church instead, Santa Maria de Belem church, which has Gothic architecture, the church also houses the tomb of Vasco de Gama, the explorer.
    Then we took the bus home after being drenched by a heavy shower of rain. A great day!    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Rua Augusta
    Praca de Comercio, a magnificent Plaza in BaxioRua Agusta in BaxiaPraca do ComercioWho doesn't love an elephant?Queijada de Evora, similar to pastei de nata but with a citrusy sheep cheese curdThese red velvet tarts really stood out, some with pistachio icing2The Pantheon at Lisbon.

    Lisbon - Sticky Fingers

    May 1, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    May day holiday! We got caught out (again). We had planned to go to Sintra today but all the castles we wanted to see were up hills and spread far and wide, so we would have needed a tour to view. Instead we headed into Lisbon and wandered around the city and Port area, and found new patisseries, we tasted a new pastel from Evora, where we are going tomorrow, a cheesecake type pastel made from sheep's cheese with a very citrusy flavour.
    Great views and atmosphere here (Pasteis de Belem, where we were yesterday, churns out an average of 30,000 pasteis de nata daily). The ones we had in Baxia weren't a patch on those Belem ones.
    We then headed out to the Tile Museum.....surprise it was shut!
    Then to the Pantheon, above our accommodation-surprise it was also shut !
    We put our feet up for the evening in preparation for a full on day at Evora tomorrow.    Read more

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    2Igreja de São Francisco
    Evora CathedralA terrace of Evora CathedralThe rooftop!The Roman TempleEvora, the aqueduct is mid left.Capela dos OssosCapala dos Ossos"We bones that are here await yours"A large nativity scene (in a model of Evora town)

    Evora

    May 2, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we left Lisbon early and took 2 trains to Evora, a 2 1/2 hour trip on the fast trains. Evora is an inland town in the South of Portugal that has some well preserved Roman ruins in a medieval town encircled with 14th century walls. As we passed through Southern Portugal we notied a lot of Pinenut trees and a lot of paddocks of oak trees it wasn't until we saw all the cork products for sale in the markets that we realised they were cork oaks.
    Our accommodation is beside the Roman aqueduct. We got our bearings then visited the main square (Praca de Giraldo) had a quick lunch, then toured Evora Cathedral, a roman-gothic building, and then the Roman Temple (ruins). The Cathedral was built on the site of a mosque and there were some tiles from that period visible. There were also Roman parts, pretty impressive. The main, more modern part was stunning rose granite marble. There is a skinny spiral staircase that takes you out onto the rooftop for a view of the town and surrounding countryside.
    We also visited Igreja de São Francisco a fantastic tiled church, the tiles celebrate the age of discovery, this church was dedicated to St. Francis. The tiles are stunning and are in arches covering most of the wall. The highlight of the day!
    Later we went to Capela dos Ossos (bone chapel) lined with the skulls and bones of about 5000 people. Upstairs there was an interesting collection of 100 or so nativity scenes (randomly). It has been a long church filled day, and tomorrow we leave early again to catch some trains up to Porto.    Read more

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    2Inside Sao Bento station
    A typical Porto sightInside Sao Paulo stationSeveral of the bridges as we entered Porto

    Porto

    May 3–5, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We arrived in Porto after an early start and a long train trip (actually 6 1/2 hours door to door). We had a few glimpses of the city through the showers of rain that turned up at the same time as us. Porto is the Northern most city in Portugal, on the Duoro River where enters the North Atlantic Ocean.
    Along the way we saw a few beefies and very few sheep. We also saw many plantations of trees, we were totally bewildered until we realized that they are orchards of sour cherry, which they make a famous liquor out of called Ginjinha. Stoner soils between Lisbon and Porta gave way to vineyards and olive groves.

    We arrived at Sao Bento train station which is well know for it's magnificent tiles, it was super crowded with tour groups. We walked up the road a bit towards our accommodation and stopped for a road rage incident, on that corner was another fully tiled building, only in Porto!
    We are looking forward to a great day of exploring tomorrow!    Read more

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    Looking down on Ribeira and Gaia districts
    Tiles at PortoSt. Augustin monastery and Sera de Pilar viewpoint14th century fortification/walls at Porto (and the funicular).Ribeira district in PortoPraça da Ribeira (Porto) on the Duoro RiverDuoro RiverPonte Dom de Luis I.River cruise on Duoro RiverTiles dedicated to Henry the Navigator on a church at Porto, on the banks of the Duoro

    A day on the Duoro

    May 4, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We went to the Duoro River area today to explore the historic riverfront of Ribeira and walk over the Ponte Dom de Luis I. First we got off the metro at Jardim do Morro and admired the views from Sera de Pilar viewpoint and St. Augustin monastery. We then walked back on the top level of Ponte Luis and ended up at Se de Porto (Cathedral) all with great views over Porto and Duoro river. It was a a bit of a drizzly day so we went for a late lunch at a top rated riverside restaurant (a Christmas present from Shaun and Caitlin and the girls). After that, when the rain cleared, we took a boat tour on the river, under the 6 bridges, two of which were designed by M. Eiffel and his protege in 1886 and 1896, the bridges didn't look that old at all! On our way home we stopped off at Sao Francisco do Porto (Cathedral).

    Toilet review from an Avora café: would have been 7/10 but it was elevated to a 9/10 by cartoon pop art on the toilet doors and a basin made of a very large single slab of Roman marble.

    Also our apartment (although we can't fault the setup and amenities) must be sited on or near the underground/metro lines. It feels like a small earthquake every 10 minutes or so. Now we know how it felt in 'The Blues Brothers' apartment !    Read more

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    Igrea de Santa Cruz ( holy cross ) First 2 Portugal kings buried here
    Moorish alleyways in CoimbraBest Portugal beer is also owl influencedSupermarket fish counterA massive block of Quince paste, they love it here!Suckling pig, orange, sweet potato, mustard pickle. CrackersCod, potato, olives, yolk sauce. Duck rice, smoked sausage, apricot, cheese sauce.

    A Misty day in Coimbra

    May 5–7, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We took a train from Porto to Coimbra today, unfortunately it was heavy rain in Porto and shortly after we got to our accommodation here in Coimbra it started again. We got a quick look around the area tonight and are all ready for a great (sunny) day tomorrow.
    Every morning and evening that we have been in Portugal we have heard owls hooting quite loudly, it is so cool, and people have statues of them on their balconies, clearly well loved.
    Coimbra is home of the oldest University in Portugal, from which JK. Rowling got her inspiration for Harry Potter, as she lived in Portugal for a couple of years. We saw quite a few people in Porto yesterday evening in long black robes, as they have a similar, but not so old, tradition there.
    The supermarket fish counters here are epic, so many fresh shiny fish, also a lot of frozen. We bought some Lula (squid) for dinner and it was tender and sweet.
    Some photos of lunch yesterday overlooking the Duoro River.    Read more

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    Biblioteca Joanina
    Biblioteca JoaninaBiblioteca JoaninaPraça das Escolas (University Square)Royal Palace.Fado SingersSanta Cruz Cafe, used to be a chapel.2St. Michaels Royal Chapel, named after the Archangel Michael, protector of the 1st king of Portugal2The staircase up to the PalaceSe Nova (new cathedral)

    Coimbra, a town of Traditions

    May 6, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    What a day! Coimbra concentrated all the best parts of Portugal into one city. We walked up the steep hill to Coimbra University where our 1st stop was Biblioteca Joanina, a baroque wooden library from 1717 with approx 70,000 priceless, historical documents and first editions. Very Harry Potterish, with bats that enter at night to get rid of any insects! The tickets were for a 20 minute slot but only 10 minutes in the actual library, only 60 people at a time, the bats get far longer !
    Next we visited the Royal Palace, home to the Portuguese royal family from 1385 till about 1537 when the University of Coimbra was established here. Similarly St. Michaels chapel, originally part of the royal palace, is now part of the university, this chapel is decorated absolutely beautifully!
    We went through Se. Nova (new cathedral) built around 1600 which was more striking than Se Velha (old cathedral) built around 1100. Coimbra was originally a walled or fortified town and there is still several big sections of the old town wall to see, and a large part of the town aqueduct.

    This afternoon we entered a maze of cobbled streets admiring the old and colourful terrace houses (and eating gelato) we ended up at the Rio Mondego and its riverside parks. On our way home we passed several groups of student's, most in formal black university gowns, singing Fado songs. Fado is the haunting lovelorn songs originally sung by the lonely male students to woo the local women. The students still wear the formal dress during all of the time that they are attending Coimbra University, it is clear to see how JK Rowling was inspired.    Read more

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    Looking down on Coimbra from the Royal PalaceAqueduct of Sao SebastiánStreet scene in CoimbraSe Velha, a fortresslike CathedralAqueduct of Sao SebastiánSe Nova.Archangel Michael inside the Royal PalaceSome very old tiles in the Royal PalaceMagnificent organ in st michaels chapel

    Goodbye Portugal - more photos

    May 7, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We spent our final night in Portugal last night, in Coimbra. Today we travelled to Lisbon and tonight to Athens, from there we fly to Santorini in the morning.
    Here are a few photos that we really liked but we didn't have any room for.Read more

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    Blinding - the white buildings and blue domes of Santorini
    A view halfway up the hillSteps and alleyways of PyrgosChurches on our walk up to KallistisKallistis ruinsKallistis ruins overlooking SantoriniMoni Profit Ilia (the highest point of Santorini) from our balconyView from the Kallistis over Santorini

    Santorini - a blue and white beauty

    May 8–10, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We arrived late last night at Athens Airport, our flight was an hour late, and the hour was insane, after midnight, so many tired people, so many bags and so few taxis and buses. Luckily our accommodation had booked a taxi, which thankfully arrived. The lady from the apartment even met us to let us in.
    Today we flew out to Santorini, a 45 minute flight, we are staying on a hill in the middle of the island with views all around. The family are very welcoming and even picked us up from the airport. The apartment is great we have 2 private terraces with breathtaking views, and is fully equipped (there is also a breakfast bar at the end of our bedroom looking out to the islands- we feel spoilt rotten).
    This afternoon we walked up to the Kallistis ruins and churches at the highest point of the island. The views were blindingly beautiful in all directions. The houses are mainly white with the odd blue dome or windows for contrast.    Read more

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    Chapel of Archangels
    Greek ruins base of Mt IliasMt Ilias from PyrgosMonastery of Prophet IliasMonastery of Prophet IliasLooking over the CalderaMonastery of Prophet IliasWalking track up to Mt. Ilias

    Santorini - the views

    May 9, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Rest morning, then after lunch we (the royal we, actually Geoff) walked around the village here (Pyrgos) then climbed Mount Profitus Ilias. First up was an old Greek orthodox church beside some Greek ruins, we continued up the hill to the Monastery of Prophet Elias (built 1712) with fantastic views over the whole island. We also discovered the famed Caldera is actually a submerged volcano (much like Akaroa harbour). We also found out that there is a cruise ship dock that is hidden down some cliffs, today there was a paltry 2 cruise ships at the harbour with a total of 3600 passengers, tomorrow 3 big ships, and the next day 6 with a total of 19,000 passengers, that is a lot for a small island!Read more

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    View at Fira, see the other white towns that look a bit like snow.
    Fira view out to the CalderaOia viewsOn our terrace at Oia with the fortress behind2Fira viewsOur cave house at OiaOia Greek Orthodox CathedralWaters edge at FiraOia from our terraceDonkeys and gondolas at Fira- alternative transportation

    Santorini - and Oia, the town of caves

    May 10, 2024 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    We got a lift down to Fira from our hosts, we then looked around the town of Fira, before catching a bus to Oia. This town is on the rim of the caldera (volcano) and is the 'perfect' town shown on all the Greek Island photos . We get to sleep in a cave house tonight-the original occupants made their homes in the caves around the harbour. The views are phenomenal, we can see all of the habour, the seaside towns, the hilltop towns that look a bit like snow because they are so white, and the buildings clinging to the sides of the cliffs. Happy.Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    The views at Oia- white houses and blue domes
    The local Santorini craft beer, Oia.Our balcony in OiaInside our cave house at Oia on SantoriniWe got to sleep in the cave, tha acoustics were very echoeyView from the fortress towards the Oia windmillViews from the fortress at Oia - check out the umbrella outside our roomThe Fortress above our rooms at OiaView from our terrace in Naxos this evening - so close to the beach

    The Greek Island of Naxos

    May 11–14, 2024 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Today we enjoyed a late breakfast at Oia, and a quick visit to the fortress above us before we took a bus back to the main town of Fira. We had a quick walk around the town and some lunch. From there we had to take another bus to the port (Athinos) to catch the ferry to Naxos. This ferry was late but that seems to be the norm here, no lines, only a massive bun fight to get on board, and it took off rapidly!
    We were met at Naxos port by Mike, who owns the apartments, turns out we about 25m from the beach with a private balcony, we keep pinching ourselves that it's real !
    Apart from grapes the main crop here seems to be pistachios, we will undertake some tasting tomorrow (gelatos of course).    Read more

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    Looking down from Kastro with the Temple of Apollo in background
    Temple of Apollo, with Naxos in backgroundTemple of ApolloLooking back to Naxos from Temple of ApolloAlleys in NaxosCatholic church in NaxosInside the Venetian CastleMarble steps inside the Venetian CastleSpanikopitaPistachio gelato - the real deal.

    Naxos - beach beauty and the old town

    May 12–15, 2024 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Today we explored part of Naxos Island. Firstly we wandered through some of the cobbled alleyways of the old town on our way to Naxos Kastro, which is actually a 13th century Venetian castle, with a collection of churches, interesting alleys, and views down to the port.
    We had some lunch at the port (spanikopita, and ricotta tarts)
    then went along to the marble Temple of Apollo (Portara) it is quite stunning and dates back to 530 BC, in the end they only built the doorway or lintel. After braving the waves on the narrow causeway we got some great views back over Naxos and the port. We shared a pistachio gelato on the way home (research only - it was fantastic) along with a lime sorbet, the pistachio gelato was definitely a stand out, Greek pistachios. We then enjoyed the rest of the afternoon the beach with the sun shining, it is pretty relaxed this end of the beach, it suits us fine! From our balcony we look out and can see the Island of Paros, the blue sea, and all the ferries coming and going. It is like another world.    Read more

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    Agios Georgia's beach.
    Geoff swimming in the Aegean Sea, almost as warm as RioSunset in the bay2Sunset from NaxosStuffed squid, grilled baby octopusOctopus croquettes and roasted stuffed tomatoes, for starters

    Naxos - beach day.

    May 13, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This morning was hot without a cloud in the sky, glorious! We walked around the area a bit ending up at a taverna at the end of the beach, and a (belated) mothers day lunch of stuffed tomatoes, octopus croquettes, stuffed squid and grilled baby octopus ensued, it was delicious.
    Thus afternoon we enjoyed the weather and swam in the Aegean Sea, with the clearest water we had been in all trip.
    The sunsets have been spectacular too!    Read more

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    A chapel on an island spit
    Our ferry to Athens4The blue of the Agean sea2Heaven, a craft beer bar.

    Athens - we got here!

    May 14–17, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We arrived in Athens after a 6 hour ferry trip from Naxos, actually a very scenic cruise through the Aegean sea and past assorted Greek Islands. We were lucky enough to get a lift down to the port from our host, we mentioned that we are interested in learning about Greek history and he gave us a concise and passionate rendition of Naxos history, the Turks, the Venetians and the Greeks (it seems he is not a fan of the Venetians).
    So we got to Athens and found our accommodation, which is right in the thick of the Acropolis (tourist) area, we found a supermarket here and a craft beer bar so all is well with the world (we found a couple of gelato shops for tomorrow too).    Read more

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    2Herod Atticus Odeon
    Temple of Athena Nike.2The Parthenon.Some of the ruins.Parthenon (left) and Temple of Athena Nike (right)The Parthenon2The Acropolis and The Pedestal of Agrippa from a rock below.Entry point, Propylaea - the grand central entranceThe Temple of Athena NikeThe Temple of Athena Nike

    Athens- walking in ancient footsteps

    May 15, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today we went to the Acropolis (which is the hill in the centre of Athens) it is less than 20 minutes walk from where we are staying. We were lucky to easily get the tickets. We are in the Plaka district which is close to most of the historic sights (but also incredibly busy).
    The Parthenon is the ancient citadel on the Acropolis, it dates back to 5 BC and is constantly being strengthened, hence the scaffolding. There is also the Herod Atticus Odeon which was built under Roman rule, it was lost under debris during the Byzantine Era and then uncovered in the 19th century. It is used today as the main venue for the Athens Festival which runs during the summer months.
    Another beautiful building is the Temple of Athena Nike, built 420 BC, a lot of the friezes and sculptures that were in here are now in Museums, but it is also constantly being repaired and strengthened. Near the entry is the Pedestal of Agrippa which was built (178 BC) to honour Marcus Agrippas victory in a chariot race in the Panathenaic games, it used to have a bronze, life-sized chariot on top.
    It was great to see these buildings and to walk on the flagstones that are highly polished by thousands of years of use.

    We had Mousaka and Nastitsoi for a late lunch then visited the Roman Agora ruins back down the hill in the city centre. This was a forum built by the Romans to house the commercial centre of Athens (31 BC).
    A gelato (pistachio, and lemon pie flavours) and a beer to finish the day.    Read more

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    2Changing of the guards, Evone style
    Evones in actionLooking across the Ancient Agora, Temple of Hephaestus top right2It is that guy lying around again! This time on a Greek Column.Stoa of Attalos, statues everywhere4Again which flavour would you choose?Ancient Agora from Temple of Hephaestus (Acropolis hill in background)A fountain in the Stoa of AttalosTemple of Hephaestus4Temple of Aphrodite Urania (below Acropolis hill)

    Athens - The Ancient Athenian Agora

    May 16, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Another busy day exploring Athens!
    First up this morning we walked 10 minutes up the road to The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, it is a representative tomb of Greek soldiers. This is guarded by the Evones, an elite corps, 24 hours a day. Every hour, on the hour, the two soldiers that have been standing motionless for an hour are relieved and two new guards come. They do a synchronised march to get their circulation going, lifting their legs and arms, it was pretty cool, especially with their uniforms.
    After that we went for a walk in the adjacent gardens, which used to be a palace gardens, we wanted to see the pond full of turtles, we also saw goats and a large orangerie.

    Next we took the metro up towards the Acropolis to see the Ancient Athenian Agora (AD 50) which used to be a town a couple of thousand years ago. On the way we passed a market and couldn't resist a large punnet of strawberries and a gelato! The gelatos were pistachio, which was very good, but overshadowed by the very dark orange bitter chocolate, mmmm.
    The Ancient Agora is sited underneath the Acropolis and is full of ruins of public buildings and sacred temples, but primarily it was the marketplace of Athens city. Very similar to Palentine hill in Rome, we spent hours walking around the ruins and looking at a reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos, the main building, which was lined with shops around 2 BC.
    Farewell Greece!    Read more

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    In front of the Herod Atticus Odean
    AcropolisThe Roman Agora in AthensRuins of Hadrians library in AthensChurch of the holy trinity - at the end of our street in AthensHagia Sofia Grand Mosque from our terrace in IstanbulHagia Sofia by night, IstanbulIstanbul (and The Bosphorus) by nightMany turtles, at the Palace gardens in AthensSultans delight (sweet and sour lamb) and Mousaka meat for a late dinner

    Farewell Athens, Hello Istanbul

    May 17, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We left Athens today, actually 2 full days and we were ready for new horizons, and then a short 90 minute flight to Istanbul. Istanbul Airport is very spread out and far from the city and it took us 3 hours from disembarking to reach our accommodation by public transport. On arrival at 6pm it turned out that unfortunately our accommodation had shut down (a new owner and renovations) but luckily a neighbour that we met had a spare room which we grabbed.
    There is regular call to prayer broadcast from the main Mosque with other Mosques competing too, duelling banjos with an accompanying chant would be a close approximation, the whole of Istanbul is covered!
    Luckily booking.com were able to help and we have found even better accommodation for tomorrow.    Read more

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    The Blue Mosque
    The Blue Mosque from the entranceInside the magnificent Blue Mosque1The Basilica CisternThe Basilica CisternMedusa sculpture inside Basilica CisternThe Basilica Cistern

    Istanbul- formerly Constantinople

    May 18–22, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Our first full day in Istanbul, it is hard to convey how striking this city is, the hills, the old town studded with dozens of Mosques, the calls to prayer ringing out across the city, The Bosphorus with the ferries, freight ships and bridges, the mopeds, the old men playing board games and drinking fruit teas, the old and the new.
    This morning we walked around the Sultanahmet area and viewed the Blue Mosque (named for the inside colors) it is very stunning and the photos don't do it justice. Then we joined the queue to see the Basilica Cistern, a huge underground Roman water source that has 336 marble columns, built about 500AD. 7000 slaves were involved in the construction, and a Basilica had previously stood above the Cistern. There is a few others around the city still, but this is the biggest.
    This afternoon we found our new apartment which is great and has a balcony with a sea view. We had a good day looking around the district, Istanbul is full on, busy and noisy, also very exciting.    Read more

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    At North beach, the Anzacs were supposed to land here
    Anzac Cove2Memorial/Commeration for Frederick Clark at Chunuk BairAnzac Memorial at Chunuk Bair2Remains of Anzac trenches1The Sphinx, steep topography that the Anzacs had to climb up in the dark, off the boatMemorial Wall and Memorial at Chunuk Bair1Landing site at Anzac CoveLone Pine at the Australia memorialAnzac Cove memorial site

    Gallipoli - Chunuk Bair

    May 19, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Today we took a 15 hour return trip to Gallipoli, 4 1/2 hours each way to Ecebat (the nearest town) by mini bus. Well worth it even though we had unwittingly arrived on a public holiday, Memorial Day, 19th May, the anniversary of the day which had the most Turkish casualties, sort of the Turkish version of Anzac Day. However Anzac Cove and the N Z memorials were less crowded. Our Turkish guide was very scathing of the British who organized the campaign (and also of the Australian force). The tour was Kiwis and Aussies so we didn't see much of the Turkish sites. At the end of the campaign there were 500,000 casualties on each of the sides, both Allied Forces and Turkish.
    We found the memorial for Frederick Clark (Dad's uncle who was killed at Rhododendron Ridge, on way up to Chunuk Bair).
    The landscape was steep and as well as landing at the wrong beach location, in darkness, they had to climb steep cliffs, dodging bullets and shrapnel.    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    2Hagia Sofia Mosque from The Bosphorus
    Burnt ColumnInside the Spice MarketGrand Bazzar3Turkish Delight shopAlleys to the Spice MarketThe many fishermen were getting a good catchOn the The BosphorusMaidens Tower, toll tower on The BosphorusAn elegant old Mosque by the new bridge over The Bosphorus

    Two Bazzars and a boat

    May 20, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today we walked up the hill to the Grand Bazzar and then down the other side to the Spice Bazzar which is right near the shores of The Bosphorus. The Grand Bazzar was huge and had a lot of jewellery, carpets, handbags, ceramics, scarves and shoes, among other things. "Life is short, spend your money ", "it's almost free", some of the calls! We had lunch in the square by the Roman 'burnt' column, before walking to the Spice Bazzar. Omg, around the Spice Bazzar was the bisiest place I have ever seen, packed, it was slightly less busy inside, more than half of the people would have been locals. There was a lot of Turkish Delight, Baclava, nougat rolls, teas made from dried flowers and herbs, all very colourful and bright. We bought a few samples!
    After that we walked down and watched the boats go by from one of the bridges, packed with people (successfully) catching their tea. The Bosphorus strait is very busy with boat traffic going back and forth across between the 2 sides of the city. It is also international waters, so there is also a lot of freight ships going through to the Black sea, and also, we heard, some Russian subs going towards the Ukraine.

    Later on we took a sunset boat tour on The Bosphorus, it was great to see both sides, old and newish (only a couple of hundred years old), Europe and Asia, the bridges that connect them, and a huge pod of dolphins.    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Looking towards European side of Istanbul and Galata Bridge
    Looking towards European side of Istanbul. A very busy river. So many domes!Looking towards Europe side of Istanbul, we walked over this 2 level bridgeMaking Balik ekmekBalik ekmek, a wrap and a bun2Nougat and Turkish Delight ‐ desert.Grilled corn a favorite snack food here, and roasted chestnutsLooking back towards Asian side of Istanbul, Galata tower on left. Fisherwomen and men on bridge.2Royal Summer palace (+ harem) stargazing pavilion on left.

    Lunch on the Continent of Asia

    May 21, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today we crossed The Bosphorus strait to the Asian side of Istanbul , we actually walked across a bridge from one continent to another!
    For lunch we had a famous Istanbul street food called Balik ekmek, which is a fish sandwich, The Bosphorus is teaming with small fish. probably mackerel, they catch them, grill them and put them in crusty bread, it was fresh and delicious.
    We then walked up the Asian side of the Bosphorus, viewed the fish market before walking back to the European side of Istanbul. We had a walk home through the alleyways exactly 1 truck wide, with the footpath blocked with boxes, scooters or small stools, and leading to a lot of horns, chaos and congestion with the odd fender bender.
    We are flying to Frankfurt tomorrow, then by train, to finally see Daniel and Nika, so looking forward to it!    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe

    Portugal, Greece and Turkiye memories

    May 22, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The cobbled streets and alleys on the hills of Lisbon. A mysteriously cancelled train and no taxis avalable. A temporarily lost passport in Lisbon airport. Colourful tiles covering the outside and inside of buildings. Steep hills and a busy river in Porto. Luscious sweet tarts and pastries, seafood and lots of Baccalau croquettes. Hooting owls in beautiful Coimbra, stone steps worn out in the centre from footsteps over the years. Shiny small cobblestones on the streets.

    Away from the madding crowd in Santorini, with veiws and walks and more veiws. Blue and white churches and houses. The luxury of the hotels built into the caves at Oia looking over the Caldera. Donkeys and many steps alongside a cable car. Relaxing vibe and beaches in Naxos. Busy sprawling Athens with it's magnificant history.

    Arriving in Istanbul at 6pm to find our accommodation shut up and sold. The turkish government banning booking.com. The cultural diversity in Istanbul. Russian submarines travelling through the Dardanelles and the Bosphorus to the Black sea. Exploring where the ANZAC troops landed at Gallipoli. The busy international waters of the Bosphorus strait is the centre of life in Istanbul. A lot of carpets! Many, many mosques. The call to prayer is broadcast on loadspeakers all over the city several times a day. Security scanners when you enter buildings such as the Airport and Basilicas. Exotic and different to anywhere else we have been, absolutely spectacular.    Read more

    Trip end
    May 21, 2024
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