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Three coasts of Europe

April – May 2024
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Portugal, Greece and Turkey Read more
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  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    The Pantheon from our Amalfa Terrace
    View over Lisbon, top left corner near Pantheon is where we are staying.Alleys in Alfama, sea in the background, reminded us of Dubrovnik1Artwork and tiles at Oriente Metro stationThe bridge Pontè Vasco da GamaVasco de Gama tower.1View from 18th floor at our hotel room

    Lisbon

    April 28, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Hello Portugal! After a rest at an airport hotel (30 hours flying and transit from Rio to Lisbon via Heathrow with delays in both steps) we visited Parque das Nacoes, built for the world expo in 1998, near the main metro station Oriente with the tiled walls, It has the longest bridge in Europe (another fine subset, actually only the 10th longest in the world) we could also see it from our 18th floor hotel room.
    This afternoon we made our way, also with a major delay, to our accommodation, at a Alfama Terrace in the old town, an area very similar to Dubrovonik, and had a wander around the cobbled streets. The view from our terrace is of the Lisbon Pantheon, and nearer to sunset time we went up to Miradouro de Santa Luzia, a viewpoint that looks over Lisbon city, down to the cruise ship dock.    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Geoff at Rossio square
    Kate at Rossio square (Figueira)Castelo Sao Jorge in top leftKate at entrance gate to Sao Jorge CastleGeoff on way into CastleOne of the castle's internal gateways with a pretty fountainWalls inside the castleLula frita, squid sandwich with lime mayoSalada de polvo, octopus salad 👌 and the salty bitesPatisserie drooling at Timeout

    Lisbon, exploring Alfama

    April 29, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We are staying in the old town area, called Alfama, which was originally founded by the Moors in the 8th century, the Tagus River runs below.
    We took the metro a little further up the river to find a particular place for lunch, it is a small quiosque (kiosk) that has been serving food since 1872, and is world famous in Lisbon. The two most popular dishes are Lula frita (squid sandwich with lime mayonnaise) and Salada de Polvo (octopus salad) so that's what we had! Oh yeah! Yum! They were so tender and tasty. We also had a couple of Salagados (salty bites): pasteis de massa tenra (Portuguese hand pies, meat) and bolimbo de bacalhau (salted Cod croquette) also both delicious. After that we had a look around a place called Timeout, which is a huge and busy upmarket food court, selling every type of food imaginable (and also heaps of desserts) unfortunately we were full from our lunch dishes.
    We then took the metro to Rossio, and admired the Plaza de Figueria, and Rossio square (King Pedro IV Square) and its famous wave tile patterns before heading up the hill to Castelo de Sao Jorge, a castle built in 1147 but with parts dating from 300bc with amazing views over Lisbon and the Tagus river. From there we walked through the lovely winding cobbled streets, some with tram tracks, admiring the views, until we reached our apartment on the hill.    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Monument to the Discoveries
    St. Jeronimos MonasteryBelem towerJeronimos Monastery (and the queue)2Inside St. Maria de Belem ChurchExplorer Vasco de Gama's tombTypical Lisbon view2Food !!View from near our accommodationThe famous no.28 tram

    Lisbon, Belem

    April 30, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today we headed up the coast to Belem, first stop was at Pastis de Belem for some famous pastels de nata (custard tart) and duck empanada, and a few other delicious bites, all were were fantastic and the pastry was perfect. The pastel de nata were creamy, vanilla, not too sweet, warm and had very crispy laminated pastry.
    We then headed to the seafront to view the Monument of the Discoveries and Belam Tower. The monument is where they farewelled the explorers, and commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator, who discovered the West African Coast. It is a very powerful and impressive monument. The Belem Tower was a 16th century fortification, a ceremonial gateway to the city of Lisbon, and a guard post.
    The monastery of Jeronimos also a very impressive building that was funded by taxing the spice trade 5%. The entry line was soooo long, at least 2 hours, maybe 3. So we went in to the adjacent church instead, Santa Maria de Belem church, which has Gothic architecture, the church also houses the tomb of Vasco de Gama, the explorer.
    Then we took the bus home after being drenched by a heavy shower of rain. A great day!    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Rua Augusta
    Praca de Comercio, a magnificent Plaza in BaxioRua Agusta in BaxiaPraca do ComercioWho doesn't love an elephant?Queijada de Evora, similar to pastei de nata but with a citrusy sheep cheese curdThese red velvet tarts really stood out, some with pistachio icing2The Pantheon at Lisbon.

    Lisbon - Sticky Fingers

    May 1, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    May day holiday! We got caught out (again). We had planned to go to Sintra today but all the castles we wanted to see were up hills and spread far and wide, so we would have needed a tour to view. Instead we headed into Lisbon and wandered around the city and Port area, and found new patisseries, we tasted a new pastel from Evora, where we are going tomorrow, a cheesecake type pastel made from sheep's cheese with a very citrusy flavour.
    Great views and atmosphere here (Pasteis de Belem, where we were yesterday, churns out an average of 30,000 pasteis de nata daily). The ones we had in Baxia weren't a patch on those Belem ones.
    We then headed out to the Tile Museum.....surprise it was shut!
    Then to the Pantheon, above our accommodation-surprise it was also shut !
    We put our feet up for the evening in preparation for a full on day at Evora tomorrow.    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    2Igreja de São Francisco
    Evora CathedralA terrace of Evora CathedralThe rooftop!The Roman TempleEvora, the aqueduct is mid left.Capela dos OssosCapala dos Ossos"We bones that are here await yours"A large nativity scene (in a model of Evora town)

    Evora

    May 2, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we left Lisbon early and took 2 trains to Evora, a 2 1/2 hour trip on the fast trains. Evora is an inland town in the South of Portugal that has some well preserved Roman ruins in a medieval town encircled with 14th century walls. As we passed through Southern Portugal we notied a lot of Pinenut trees and a lot of paddocks of oak trees it wasn't until we saw all the cork products for sale in the markets that we realised they were cork oaks.
    Our accommodation is beside the Roman aqueduct. We got our bearings then visited the main square (Praca de Giraldo) had a quick lunch, then toured Evora Cathedral, a roman-gothic building, and then the Roman Temple (ruins). The Cathedral was built on the site of a mosque and there were some tiles from that period visible. There were also Roman parts, pretty impressive. The main, more modern part was stunning rose granite marble. There is a skinny spiral staircase that takes you out onto the rooftop for a view of the town and surrounding countryside.
    We also visited Igreja de São Francisco a fantastic tiled church, the tiles celebrate the age of discovery, this church was dedicated to St. Francis. The tiles are stunning and are in arches covering most of the wall. The highlight of the day!
    Later we went to Capela dos Ossos (bone chapel) lined with the skulls and bones of about 5000 people. Upstairs there was an interesting collection of 100 or so nativity scenes (randomly). It has been a long church filled day, and tomorrow we leave early again to catch some trains up to Porto.    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    2Inside Sao Bento station
    A typical Porto sightInside Sao Paulo stationSeveral of the bridges as we entered Porto

    Porto

    May 3–5, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We arrived in Porto after an early start and a long train trip (actually 6 1/2 hours door to door). We had a few glimpses of the city through the showers of rain that turned up at the same time as us. Porto is the Northern most city in Portugal, on the Duoro River where enters the North Atlantic Ocean.
    Along the way we saw a few beefies and very few sheep. We also saw many plantations of trees, we were totally bewildered until we realized that they are orchards of sour cherry, which they make a famous liquor out of called Ginjinha. Stoner soils between Lisbon and Porta gave way to vineyards and olive groves.

    We arrived at Sao Bento train station which is well know for it's magnificent tiles, it was super crowded with tour groups. We walked up the road a bit towards our accommodation and stopped for a road rage incident, on that corner was another fully tiled building, only in Porto!
    We are looking forward to a great day of exploring tomorrow!    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Looking down on Ribeira and Gaia districts
    Tiles at PortoSt. Augustin monastery and Sera de Pilar viewpoint14th century fortification/walls at Porto (and the funicular).Ribeira district in PortoPraça da Ribeira (Porto) on the Duoro RiverDuoro RiverPonte Dom de Luis I.River cruise on Duoro RiverTiles dedicated to Henry the Navigator on a church at Porto, on the banks of the Duoro

    A day on the Duoro

    May 4, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We went to the Duoro River area today to explore the historic riverfront of Ribeira and walk over the Ponte Dom de Luis I. First we got off the metro at Jardim do Morro and admired the views from Sera de Pilar viewpoint and St. Augustin monastery. We then walked back on the top level of Ponte Luis and ended up at Se de Porto (Cathedral) all with great views over Porto and Duoro river. It was a a bit of a drizzly day so we went for a late lunch at a top rated riverside restaurant (a Christmas present from Shaun and Caitlin and the girls). After that, when the rain cleared, we took a boat tour on the river, under the 6 bridges, two of which were designed by M. Eiffel and his protege in 1886 and 1896, the bridges didn't look that old at all! On our way home we stopped off at Sao Francisco do Porto (Cathedral).

    Toilet review from an Avora café: would have been 7/10 but it was elevated to a 9/10 by cartoon pop art on the toilet doors and a basin made of a very large single slab of Roman marble.

    Also our apartment (although we can't fault the setup and amenities) must be sited on or near the underground/metro lines. It feels like a small earthquake every 10 minutes or so. Now we know how it felt in 'The Blues Brothers' apartment !    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Igrea de Santa Cruz ( holy cross ) First 2 Portugal kings buried here
    Moorish alleyways in CoimbraBest Portugal beer is also owl influencedSupermarket fish counterA massive block of Quince paste, they love it here!Suckling pig, orange, sweet potato, mustard pickle. CrackersCod, potato, olives, yolk sauce. Duck rice, smoked sausage, apricot, cheese sauce.

    A Misty day in Coimbra

    May 5–7, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We took a train from Porto to Coimbra today, unfortunately it was heavy rain in Porto and shortly after we got to our accommodation here in Coimbra it started again. We got a quick look around the area tonight and are all ready for a great (sunny) day tomorrow.
    Every morning and evening that we have been in Portugal we have heard owls hooting quite loudly, it is so cool, and people have statues of them on their balconies, clearly well loved.
    Coimbra is home of the oldest University in Portugal, from which JK. Rowling got her inspiration for Harry Potter, as she lived in Portugal for a couple of years. We saw quite a few people in Porto yesterday evening in long black robes, as they have a similar, but not so old, tradition there.
    The supermarket fish counters here are epic, so many fresh shiny fish, also a lot of frozen. We bought some Lula (squid) for dinner and it was tender and sweet.
    Some photos of lunch yesterday overlooking the Duoro River.    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Biblioteca Joanina
    Biblioteca JoaninaBiblioteca JoaninaPraça das Escolas (University Square)Royal Palace.Fado SingersSanta Cruz Cafe, used to be a chapel.2St. Michaels Royal Chapel, named after the Archangel Michael, protector of the 1st king of Portugal2The staircase up to the PalaceSe Nova (new cathedral)

    Coimbra, a town of Traditions

    May 6, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    What a day! Coimbra concentrated all the best parts of Portugal into one city. We walked up the steep hill to Coimbra University where our 1st stop was Biblioteca Joanina, a baroque wooden library from 1717 with approx 70,000 priceless, historical documents and first editions. Very Harry Potterish, with bats that enter at night to get rid of any insects! The tickets were for a 20 minute slot but only 10 minutes in the actual library, only 60 people at a time, the bats get far longer !
    Next we visited the Royal Palace, home to the Portuguese royal family from 1385 till about 1537 when the University of Coimbra was established here. Similarly St. Michaels chapel, originally part of the royal palace, is now part of the university, this chapel is decorated absolutely beautifully!
    We went through Se. Nova (new cathedral) built around 1600 which was more striking than Se Velha (old cathedral) built around 1100. Coimbra was originally a walled or fortified town and there is still several big sections of the old town wall to see, and a large part of the town aqueduct.

    This afternoon we entered a maze of cobbled streets admiring the old and colourful terrace houses (and eating gelato) we ended up at the Rio Mondego and its riverside parks. On our way home we passed several groups of student's, most in formal black university gowns, singing Fado songs. Fado is the haunting lovelorn songs originally sung by the lonely male students to woo the local women. The students still wear the formal dress during all of the time that they are attending Coimbra University, it is clear to see how JK Rowling was inspired.    Read more

  • ThistledomeThistledomeThree coasts of Europe
    Looking down on Coimbra from the Royal PalaceAqueduct of Sao SebastiánStreet scene in CoimbraSe Velha, a fortresslike CathedralAqueduct of Sao SebastiánSe Nova.Archangel Michael inside the Royal PalaceSome very old tiles in the Royal PalaceMagnificent organ in st michaels chapel

    Goodbye Portugal - more photos

    May 7, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We spent our final night in Portugal last night, in Coimbra. Today we travelled to Lisbon and tonight to Athens, from there we fly to Santorini in the morning.
    Here are a few photos that we really liked but we didn't have any room for.Read more

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