Las Negras to Agua Amarga 12,5 km (+ Carboneras)

What a day.

We started early, and were surprised by the sun rising just above the horizon when we walked out. A quick coffee and then on the go.

A first uphill part to get awake, sun shining full in our eyes which made it hard to see where we were walking.

Up toward San Pedro. Just before the going down to beach level we ran into a steep ledge secured with ropes, but it felt safe. In San Pedro, an old castle ruin, and little improvised living spaces making use of caves (as one inhabitant called her place) and any available materials. Further up in the valley away from the beach we saw even more improvised homes. They were hard to see from high above, and mostly the black roofs gave them away. The village has no roads connection, all has to come in by boat or on foot.

We read information that it was a steep climb up out of San Pedro. And it was, some steps up were high and hard on the knees with the pack on your back. But overall it was ok. We were still fresh. Just before the top we both realized that there also must be a going down… And we both experienced that the down part was much tougher. A lot of unevenous, loose stones, narrow places to put your boot.
And then up again, less high this time, walking highup along the seashore. And then a second going down with lots of volcanic rock slabs on a 35? degree angle facing down. Hardly any flat surface where your feet could have a bit of a rest. At the end of that descent we were done. If you have any wrong footwear, you will definitely know by the end of this walk. It was the most challenging day for the feet i have ever had. The walk up to the lighthouse on the last stage of the Fishermen’s trail was something, but this doubled that.

I looked at the map, still 3,5 km to Agua Amarga! At 15.30 we arrived there. 11km done in 6,5 hours…. We only had 1 rest and could not have done it any faster. We didnot see how we could walk to Carboneras before dark without paying a penalty for that the next day. We decided to call a taxi to take us the last 10 km.
Another day at the races tomorrow!
~Gerard

Accomodation:
- Hotel Felipe, ask for keys at bar Felipe. 50 euro for a room for two. Water takes 10 minutes to get lukewarm. Lovely soft towels…

We went to the very basic Felipe restaurant for dinner and paid by far the most we have ever paid for food in Spain. Always ask for the menu, with prices!Read more