Lorca travels to València
February 15 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Yesterday we booked our travel ticket to Valencia with the train thru the Renfe train app. It was a smooth process, no warnings what so ever. It was a couple of hours by train more than going with the bus but debi gets car sick quickly so we preferred the train. We were set to go for today.
When we arrived this morning at the train station we could see that the station was under construction. We also could see that the train tracks were taken out ! So we could forget the train for sure.
We asked a regional bus driver what to do and he said Renfe would fix it by busses and pointed us out where to go. A lot of people were gathered at the pointed out spot but it was not clear to anyone when to expect a Renfe bus. When a new (yellow) bus came, however the bus driver was reluctant to give information to the gathered people, we didn’t even try given our level of understanding of Spanish. After fifteen minutes the situation had not changed.
I saw the driver of the yellow n bus chatting with another bus driver and stepped forward and asked what to do given our already paid ticket to Valencia. She said to wait, no idea for how long, at least i now knew the bus we should take would be blue…
Every piece of information helps…
Then twenty minutes later a blue bus came and would bring us to Murcia. No idea if we would still be able to get the train connection to Valencia.
Everybody traveling will recognize this situation. You want to go somewhere and not being able to speak the language means you are out of control. You have to use every bit of information you can get to figure out if you are doing the right thing. And that can be stressful if accommodation is already booked in the place you want to go.
We got to Murcia by blue bus, when we stepped out at Murcia station a Renfe employee was waiting and told people for Valencia to go to platform 8. We walked over to the station and another employee showed up, we showed our ticket and she told us to go to platform 7 which was at the other side of the station as all even platforms where left and all uneven platforms where right.
You get the picture… were we at the right platform in the end? By that time we didn’t care anymore. There was a train going from platform 7 to Valencia and if that was the one we needed to have .. no idea. We would be in Valencia tonight and have a bed we had paid for….
Don’t worry cause everything will be alright …
Valencia was a big surprise, this town must have been important in the history of Spain. We are going to see more of it tomorrow.
~G
We stepped out of the train station into Valencia. And wow! We have been in many Spanish cities, and this one appears to be among the most beautiful. Looking forward to exploring more tomorrow! ~debiRead more
València town and Levante prep
February 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 21 °C
What a gem Valencia is. If you look at the history, this town was the richest and most prosperous in the 15th century. Made by trade and not royalty ( Madrid) or Moorish influences ( Sevilla). This time I experienced that my iPhone was not suitable to picture what I experienced. The grandeur of the place is just incredible. We will definitely come back to this place as a long weekend city trip. And then i will do more sight seeing, including Calatrava-land, as i had not enough time for it today.
We are set to go for the Levante. We made the choice to start in Almansa. It is uphill but I just do like alpine/mountain landscapes and we are in shape so we are not too worried about the 450 meters uphill. We did more on the Argar and this is more gradual.
See you tomorrow!
~GRead more
Valencia travels to Almansa
February 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
We had the 9 o’clock bus and were up early. The town started their daily activities as we headed for the Alsa bus station. Good morning Valencia.
Inside the (big) station was enough space for wildlife. And if not, pigeons always adapt. It waited for its turn to have a bite of that baguette.
We are now in Almansa, eager to walk again tomorrow. We skipped a bunch of earlier walking stages so that we can make it to Toledo. Above Almansa hovers a big castle, to be seen from all sides.
We booked the route for two days ahead, with enough accommodation options this time (compared to the Argar). In Alpera we can stay in the local albergue. In Higueruela the albergue was closed but an Hostal was available.
Accomodation:
Albergue E. De Maria, 20 euro for two persons. Incl towels, sheet and blanket. No heat.
~GRead more
Almansa to Alpera; 27 km
February 18 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C
Nothing feels better after our break from the Argar than to start walking again.
Today was a very easy walk.
We walked towards the mountains in the west and went left around it. Lots of almond trees in blossom. And incredible how they can get crop out of ‘fields of stones’.
The paths were easy and the incline hardly noticeable.
Halfway we came to the rail track and there should have been a path just before it, going right. But the farmer seems to have extended his field and that path is no more. Only thing you can do is walking along the rail track itself until you see to the right that the path in another part of the field starts again. Then step off the path along the tracks and continue on natural surface.
The weather was nice, full sun but the wind was cold though and it picked up as planned in the afternoon but happily not so much as we feared. It was very walkable.
At 2.30 we entered Alpera, stepping in the first bar we saw open ( la Parrilla ) and had a lovely menu del dia. We like it when we are early enough in the end stage village, but when we walk long stages we just don’t make it in time for the menu del dia.
The Albergue key we could pick up after 16.00 hrs in the library. 7 euro per person. No sheets or pillow cases, but there are a few blankets. Quite cold inside. No heating.
~G
Debi: I am continually impressed by the strong feministe influence in this country. From public art to books in libraries…it is present even in small communities.Read more
Alpera to Higueruela; 22 km
Feb 19–20 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 8 °C
In stead of going the same way back to the Levante the way we came yesterday ( to avoid the long walking on the road ), we learned from AJGuillaume’s notes that there was an alternative.
I looked in my GaiaGPS app, my route guidance on many occasions, and indeed there was another route joining the Levante after approximately 11 km.
First part was on a silent local tarmac road, and second half on natural surface. Close to the end it followed the rail track (no need to walk close to the tracks this time) and then went underneath it thru a little tunnel joining the Levante. Apart from staying away from the busier road, it also saved us about 4km. I will put it on wikiloc when i get home.
We started walking at nine o’clock as we thought we could afford us a breakfast with lovely cafe con leche. It was very cold, we needed gloves and hats and our raincoats for blocking the wind. The wind was doable still but it would definitely not be a walk in the park. Luckily the predictions were that the wind would be less in the afternoon. How we were wrong…
The wind got stronger around ten o’clock and we wondered if we should go on. We decided to go on as predictions were it would get better. At that time the wind speeds according to the weather app were 40 km with wind gusts up to 70km. And the thing is, there were no gusts, it was 70 km constant wind straight in the face. And the second thing is: the wind never stopped, the predicted smoothing of the wind force in the afternoon did not happen. There was almost nothing to protect us from the wind, no elevation differences, no bushes, no trees. By the time we got to Higueruela we were done. Debi was exhausted, at dinner she was still too tired to eat. She force fed as she knew she needed it.
We will see tomorrow. We were planning to do the long 29 km trip to Chinchilla. The wind will be less and laying down in the afternoon but we now know that weather predictions in this area or in this kind of weather are just not reliable enough. We may choose for the safe side.
Accomodation: hostal la Posada, basic, nice hot water. Good sturdy beds. 60 euro for two persons including breakfast.Read more

Laurie ReynoldsYour post from yesterday is private so I can’t read it. That may have been intentional, but just thought you would want to know in case it isn’t.
Higueruela to Chinchilla by bus
February 20 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 9 °C
The wind is still here, although less then yesterday and still predicted to go to low in the afternoon…. Debi feels like she wants to be in bed for the whole day.
Doing the whole trip to Chinchilla is no option anymore.
We try to get to the midpoint by wheels. Taxi to Hoya-Gonzalo need to come from Almansa (40km) to bring us 10km down the road. That makes no sense. Buses go at 13.35, then we have hardly time to finish the second half and we have no escape if Debi is not doing well.
This is all part of what walking is about: plan, adapt plan, improvise, plan again… Having less infrastructure like taxi, bus, train, we have to deal with it. As we need to do with the language. We still enjoy enough to come back to Spain almost every year.
We will take the bus the whole way to Chinchilla as our accommodation is now planned till up to Sunday.
And Chinchilla is a little gem.
Accomodation: albergue Chinchilla ~Gerard
Hostal La Posada kindly let us keep our room until it was time to leave for the 1:35 bus. I was glad to rest while G explored the town.
Yesterday was really difficult, beginning with a 6am fall down a concrete staircase as I tried to find my way to the washroom in the dark. Just six steps, and luckily I only have a bruised tailbone.
By early afternoon I was feeling dizzy from the constant pressure of the cold harsh and heavy wind, I found a mat of pine needles to lie down for a while on 3 km before our destination. So the bus today was quite welcome.
When we arrived in Chinchilla we went for a very nice Menu del Dia and then dragged our full belly selves up the hill to the Albergue.
We called the number on the door to contact the police to come let us in, and I thought that G did a very good job of communicating in Spanish. However, as we waited for someone to arrive, I was not convinced that the police did understood and would show up. Eventually a little girl passed by who was studying some English and was glad to help us.
A police officer arrived shortly after (he was indeed on his way). Later the doorbell rang at the Albergue, and the little girl and five of her friends showed up with their Friday night bags of candy. We had a conversation in English, each making a contribution. Wonderful ambassadors for Chinchilla.
The Albergue here is two rooms, one with 6 beds (bunk) and the other a kitchen. Plus bathroom with shower. It has heat, blankets, disposable mattress and pillow covers, and wifi. Luxury! Donativo. ~debiRead more
Chinchilla to Albecete; 16 km
February 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
We had a lovely breakfast at Tapería "El Casino", at the plaza Mancha. The service was the most heartily and welcoming we had so far. And above all we could get fresh orange juice again. This was a promising start of the day.
We were the only one, apart from one older woman enjoying her coffee. Then another woman came in and they got into a lively conversation. Instantly Debi and i were unable to hear each other talking, what a racket those two could make. Honestly i am starting to like the chaos in the Spanish cafe’s …
After all the weather violence, today felt like a treat. Walking straight, no wind, no coldness, no noise.
Because of the absence of the wind we could again walk with our ear-phones in. Nothing more meditative than making a step by step and having your fav music on, at least that is what it does to me.
If you like desolate places, this is it. There is sheer open flatness all around us. We could see Albacete almost right from start (15km away!). And it took us about four hours to get there (VdlP Salamanca-like). Some might say, the walk was uninteresting, but i like far away horizons.
In Albacete we found a very nice traditional place to have lunch. Taberna Pepa la Cordobesa. The food was above expectations. And we had our first Sangria because we were tempted as we saw other people enjoy it.
It was superb. The sweetness was there but it felt as if it came from something else, liquorish. I did ask what they had mixed in and they came with the standard wine , sugar , Fanta orange, fanta lemon and then mentioned four different alcoholic fluids (see picture). Definitely something worthwhile to figure out the right quantities when we get home.
And then as dessert, the chocolate cheese cake was exceptional as well. We both enjoyed it very much and we were fighting for the last little bite (we often share dessert)….
So it was a very nice day and we are now waiting for the train to get us to la Roda as we could not find accommodation in la Gineta, which we solved by skipping it altogether.
~GRead more
Albacete to la Roda by train
February 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Tonight we sleep in hotel Juanito in La Roda. We kind of forgot why we didn’t go to the Municipal Albergue as the day we reserved this place was a bit hectic.
At the hotel we had to ask for a different room than we got first. They tried to mask the cigarette smell with some sort of detergent but it just was awful. The second room was luckily much better. ~Gerard
We had a short 20 minute train ride and entered the town to almost immediately happen on the carnival parade. It is the last day of carnival. What luck! And I was briefly recruited to join the parade and help pull a mat full of little mice! Thanks to our short walking day, we will have some energy tonight to go out and enjoy more of the festivities.
Also, we see that this town is known for its puff pastries, and our hotel is nicely located a few doors from a nice bakery. Not sure that our 17.5 km walk today is going to compensate for today’s treat intake!
~debiRead more
La Roda to Minaya; 17 + 6 km
February 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
La Roda happens to be the place where they invented the puf cake called Miguelito. Very delicate phyllo pastries, the top layer filled with light vanilla pudding and coated with icing sugar. I was born in a bakery so at breakfast this could not go past me. It was lovely.
We started relative late, around nine as today’s walk was short. Soon we left the village and walked past some industrial buildings and then we were out, in the desolate plains. How can you picture desolateness, space? I tried to do my best. My favorite is a peregrino on the path, left and right nothing, not even a tree. It must be very hot to walk here in the summer.
We walked along a kind of storage chamber, the roof half collapsed. The remarkable thing about it though, was that it seemed to have been made from loose stones and perfectly round. No mortar. Even the roof were loose stones. This had to have been a job that took many weeks to build. Stones enough in the environment but you have to find the right one everytime.
Halfway we ran into an ugly carbage dump. That stuff has been there for years and i wonder how the Spanish garbage industrie works. In the Netherlands there is an industry that tries to take everything out that is worthwhile before burning it and delivering the heat to houses. But then Spain is a big country, places enough to dump it.
We walked on and then “the man with the hammer” appeared to me (hitting the wall). I felt a bit groggy this morning and blamed the sangria we had yesterday, all my energy slowly drained from me. I had a hard time walking straight, i had to really concentrate. I got cold shivering, thirsty, i wanted to lay down, sleep. We arrived in Montaya at the medieval door and i felt really sick. I managed to get out of town without puking. We still had another 5 km to go. I hardly managed and felt like a zombie. And then it dawned on me. Dehydration sickness, not my first time.
It is a remarkable phenomena i think. It was warm but not too too warm. I felt very strong yesterday and the sangria tasted wonderful. No symptom/signal what so ever that something was building up. And today it hit me. I will be ok, it is my third time and it (always) takes me by surprise.
Within an hour it turns you from a marathon runner into a beginner doing 500 meters for the first time. Also you are feeling nauseated and it looks like the water does not want to leave your stomach (you get bloated).
The place we will sleep was close to a local airfield and the most luxurious up till now (50euro, in Minaya we could not find anything for tonight). What a treat, i fell on the bed, slept for two hours and then showered. I am starting to get back in my body.
“Don’t worry, about a thing, everything will be alright”
~GRead more
Dehydration (AI consult)
February 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
I asked AI for some facts.
Does this makes sense?
AI Question:
-Can you predict dehydration coming? I've had it again, it surprised me (3rd time), and I feel like I've drunk enough.
-Is the fluid deficit from the same day you get sick, or does it also build up over the preceding days?
AI Answer:
This is a very important point, especially on the Camino Levante, where the dry air of the highlands (the Meseta) literally drains you invisibly.
The short answer to your most important question: No, it's almost never just from the day itself. It's a cumulative process.
1. The "Maintenance Debt" (Cumulation)
Dehydration builds up over 2 to 3 days.
• If you drink slightly too little on day 1, your body will recover somewhat overnight, but you'll already start day 2 with a "fluid deficit."
• On day 3, you'll reach the tipping point. You think you're drinking enough that day, but you're actually just replenishing yesterday's deficit, while you're also losing it today. You're constantly playing catch-up.
2. Why "Drinking Enough" Sometimes Doesn't Work
You can drink 4 liters of water and still become dehydrated. This is due to electrolytes (salts).
• If you only drink pure water and sweat a lot, you flush the salts (sodium, potassium, magnesium) from your blood.
• Your cells can no longer "retain" the water. The water goes in, but immediately drains out through your bladder. You think you're hydrated because you urinate, but your cells are dehydrated.
• Symptom: If you drink a lot but your urine is still dark, or you have to urinate extremely frequently but remain thirsty, then you need salts, not pure water.
3. How Do You Know It's Coming? (The Early Signs)
Dehydration surprises you because the familiar symptoms (thirst) only appear when it's already too late. Pay attention to these IT early warnings:
• The Heart Rate Check: Is your resting heart rate (e.g., when you're sitting on a bench for a moment) higher than normal? If your heart has to work harder to pump thickened blood, you're dehydrated.
• The "Paste Test": Pinch the skin on the back of your hand. Does the skin "stay put" for a second instead of immediately springing back? Then your connective tissue is too dry.
• Cognitive "Lags": Do you get irritated more easily? Do you have trouble making decisions or understanding the Gaia app? This is often the first sign that your brain is dehydrated.
• No More Sweat: This is the warning sign. If you're running but your skin feels dry or "goosebump-like" in the heat, you should stop immediately. Strategy for the coming days on the Levante:
1. Stop drinking only water: Buy "Suero Oral" at the pharmacy (Farmacia) or sports drinks (Aquarius is a classic in Spain) at the supermarket. Mix this with your water.
2. The 500ml Rule: Drink 500ml of water before your first walk in the morning.
3. Salty food: Don't be afraid of salt on your food during the pilgrim's meal. You need it more now than at home.
4. Monitor your urine: This remains the best "sensor." It should be the color of light lemonade. If it's the color of apple juice, stop and drink a liter with salt.
You're sick now, so your body needs rest to restore its fluid balance.
~GRead more

TravelerWow. Thank you for posting this info. And I do hope you feel better soon. 🤗 The sangria and sugary breakfast probably didn’t help. On VDLP I remember eating lots of olives every day as that was the ‘go to’ tapas. I just looked it up and yes, olives do help with hydration because of their relatively high water and sodium content. 🫒🫒🫒
Minaya to San Clemente; 15 km
February 23 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
We slept wonderfully in the hostal, which is reminiscent of an old hacienda. Beautiful wooden ceilings and wooden balustrades on the landing.
At breakfast, Debi discovered a beautiful old wine barrel that she'd love to have. I promised her that if it fits in my backpack, I'd bring it back home for her.
The first 6 km we had to walk on the road to connect with the Levante. After that, we continued along lovely natural paths, which are much easier on your feet in combination with the weight of your backpack.
Today was more varied, still flat, but now with several copses appearing here and there in the landscape. It's the landscape where Don Quixote comes from. You see numerous references to it.
What struck me is that larks have been constantly tweeting above us for the past four days. It reminds me of the time I spent on the beach. Then, and usually when the weather was nice, the larks tweeted above the dunes. It makes me happy.
It's a shame though, that we're walking parallel to the highway today; we constantly hear the background noise. Unlike the past few days, where we could enjoy the tweets in complete peace.
Halfway through the day, we meet our first fellow pilgrim. He caught up with us. Martin is from Australia, and since catching the hiking bug, he's been making the most of the three months a tourist can stay in Europe. He walks crisscross through Spain in those three months. "You're debigetsout," he says. He'd been following Debi's blogs on the Camino forum….
The walking was wonderful again today, but upon arrival in San Clemente, I felt unwell again. I'm not over my dehydration yet...
~GRead more
San Clemente to Mota del Cuervo; 20 km
February 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
First part to Las Pedroneras we did by bus as we could use some extra time for returning home.
At the beginning of the walk i was not feeling 100%. But i so wanted to walk today. Was i going to regret it? We were going thru two villages before reaching Mota de Cuervo, so i thought i could manage it.
Farmers were attending the grape vines everywhere. Some fields needed a cutting still (they leave on two shoots per vine) other fields the vines were being bound to the wires.
Lots of “trade marks” today, the Osborne bull, Don Quixote, the mills.
Yesterday i bought sachets of the “Suero Oral" at the farmacie and still not feeling well i decided at our first stop to dissolve the powder of one sachet in my drink bottle. It tasted nice with a touch of orange. When we were ready to continue i noticed immediately a difference in my steps. My energy was back and stayed with me the rest of the day and evening. A remarkable recovery.
While i was doing better, Debi got worse. On that horrific hill after San Pedro on day three, Debi did hurt her foot from all the sliding and uneven steps. Once in a while she felt it coming up but it was manageable. She carries an extra pair of shoes so she can change the pressure points when it starts to bother her. But the last few days the recovery of her feet in the evening/night was not enough anymore. We think she needs to give her feet a longer rest.
We looked for options and public transport in the next few days are going to be very limited. Tomorrows destination El Toboso is a nice town and the last Camino stage where the Samar busses to Toledo still drive from.
Tomorrow’s walk is 12 km, we will go slow, taking lots of rests. The next day we will take the 05.15hr ! Bus to Toledo, and both will walk out Toledo and back in. Or depending on debi’s shape we will step out at the second last stop Nambroca around 08.00hr. From there we will both walk into Toledo to finish our 2026 spring walk. At least, that is the plan.
~GRead more

G those bags with ORS (suero oral ) are live savers. So nice that you found them over there. It is great that you both came this far, 💪! [Caroline & Edward]

TravelerThat sounds like a good plan. Foot injuries on a walking trip are so hard to work around. I'm amazed that you both have been able to walk so many days after that incredibly difficult start.
Mota del Cuervo to El Toboso; 12 km
February 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Today we take a shorter walk between vineyards and a single olive grove in slightly more uneven terrain. Every now and then we see small trees whose names I can't quite pinpoint. Fruit trees? But what then? Not oranges, because they still have leaves.
I read yesterday that this region is the largest in the world in terms of vineyard area. All of Australia has only half of what they have here. Previously, it was often about quantity, but in recent years they've also been investing in quality.
Just after noon, we enter El Toboso. Debi didn't need to go any longer, because just before El Toboso, the pain in her foot flares up again. 12 km seems to be the tipping point.
We immediately visit the information center to ask how we can reschedule the bus route so we don't have to get out of bed at five o'clock in the morning. There's a solution.
If we take the bus to Madrid and then the train to Toledo, than we can be in Toledo tonight. We decide to follow that advice.
~GRead more
Walk in and around Toledo; 14 km
Feb 26–27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Today we walked out of Toledo. We wanted to experience the vistas Peregrinos commented about when walking into Toledo.
At the bridge to the east Debi decided to return as her foot was bothering her. I walked on for a couple of km more to the south of Toledo. Magnificent views. And while my original plan was to return on my footsteps i thought half way the walk that it was much more fun to continue to the west of Toledo and enter the town from there.
This route along the “Toledo ring road” was perfectly safe as there was a sidewalk all along the tarmac road. I must say it was actually more dangerous to walk in Toledo than around it as some streets are car wide and when you walk there and a car comes down you have to step in a doorway step to make room for the car to pass.
Toledo is an exceptional town. The former capital city of Spain has an amazingly well preserved old center. And looking at the natural barrier of the river and hills makes it understandable why 500 years ago, it was a logical place to put the political center there.
This is my last post. It was exceptional for the conditions we had to deal with. The wind, the challenging downhill after Las Negras, the sparse available habitation. But we enjoyed it and consider ourselves lucky that we can still do this. It is not time for donkey service yet, but if that time comes, then we will be happy to use the 🫏 service as long as we can keep on walking.
We will fly out of Madrid on Saturday afternoon, February 28. Thank you for walking with us, for your support and advice.
Till next time!
~G
This has been a Camino of numerous health related challenges, including a still very sore tailbone since my morning fall down the stairs. But that has not dampened my enthusiasm for our next Camino, which hopefully will be soon.
Perhaps the Levante between Toledo and Zamora, and then back to walk the Madrid?
Also, despite all of our Caminos, we have not walked the English way or Primitivo.
And maybe an out of high season Francais next year to celebrate the 20th anniversary of our meeting there?
We’ll see. Everything still seems possible!
Buen Camino!
~debi
we walked 8 days on the Camino Levante, total distance: 149 kmRead more

mary louise adamsWhat a trip. Such a pleasure to read your notes every day! Hello to both of you and I hope you have easy travels home!
Fly out of Madrid
February 28 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
13.30 hr we flew back home. With KLM from Madrid Airport.
We took a taxi from the train station to the airport as we had little time and didnot want the stress (fixed price for 2026: 33 euro). It worked out well.Read more






















































































































































Laurie ReynoldsEnjoy Valencia! If you have a day there, you will probably have time to visit Calatrava-land.
TravelerNo idea what you pointed out. And than i searched google and his architecture is really amazing. I am in for tomorrow. Thanks for your tip!
Laurie ReynoldsThere are lawsuits involving each one of those buildings I think. I was given a tour by a friend in Valencia, whose husband is an architect. He was not involved in these buildings, but she knew all the details of the many lawsuits. The one I remember is that there’s a large number of seats in a performance center that are totally blocked from any view of anything remotely near the stage. And there’s also some story about diverting a water source , because I think some of these buildings are built in what used to be a river bed. But I may be totally wrong about that..